Cookery School: Fish E-Book

Joanna Farrow

• Herausgeber: IMM Lifestyle Books
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2016

Seitenzahl: 180

Beschreibung

An indispensable guide to preparing fish, from sourcing and seasoning to gutting and filleting, with over 50 mouthwatering recipes. If you have ever found yourself at the fishmongers feeling overwhelmed at the variety of fish available, then this is the book for you. Cooking fish doesn't have to be difficult if you are well prepared and have a few essential techniques mastered. The book begins with a detailed look at types of fish, including white fish and oily fish as well as shellfish. A comprehensive techniques section follows covering essential skills such as gutting, scaling, filleting and marinating. Once the basics have been mastered, choose from 50 delicious yet simple recipes, each with clear instructions. Cookery School: Fish is a must-read for anyone looking to improve their skills in the kitchen and understand more about where the food we eat comes from.

Leseprobe

Contents

Introduction

Sustainable fishing

Buying fish

Storing fish

Preparation techniques

Baking and roasting

Grilling and barbecuing

Frying

Stewing, braising and poaching

Steaming and microwaving

Raw, cured and smoked

Basic recipes

Index

Introduction

Beautifully fresh fish is often best served simply cooked. A whole grilled (broiled) plaice topped with a dot of butter and seasoning; a plump baked salmon fillet drizzled with a squeeze of lemon; or mackerel fried with crispy bacon – all delicious dishes that tempt the palate with their sublime flavours and divine taste. These dishes are simplicity itself to cook, and may help demystify cooking with this ingredient. Most of us are more wary of cooking fish than meat, perhaps because we’re simply less familiar with it. Sure, fish does require more careful treatment than meat, as it’s so quick to cook through and may fall apart if overdone. Like other ingredients it will also dry out if cooked for too long, and then of course, there are the bones – perhaps the reason why most people shy away from cooking and eating this versatile ingredient.

There are many different ways of cooking fish, and each chapter of this book provides easy-to-follow instructions for each method, as well as plenty of recipes to try with your newly honed skills. From grilling and barbecuing to roasting and poaching, simple recipes are provided to illustrate the process. So, even if you’ve never cooked fish before, you’ll see just how straightforward it is. Many of the recipes can be prepared and cooked in less than 30 minutes, which makes fish the ultimate fast food!

SUSTAINABLE FISHING

In recent years issues such as sustainable fishing and responsible buying have become very focal to the fishing industry and our shopping habits. Sustainable fishing and protecting the marine environment will help to ensure that we can enjoy a wide range of seafood, both now and into the future so it’s worth using our ‘purchasing power’ as an influence.

The way in which some fish are caught can have an impact on other types of fish in the same waters so it’s important that you choose fish with the fishing method clearly labelled. This might be using hooks and lines, nets and pots, or even in the case of scallops and clams, harvesting by divers – a good fishmonger will be able to advise you and supermarkets should label their products accordingly. Products should be avoided if they are fished by bottom trawling, a method of fishing in which a net the size of a ruby pitch is dragged along the bottom of the sea floor, churning up and destroying the environment as it goes, and capturing unwanted species. Pair netting, in which two boats run alongside each other with a net between the two, also causes ‘bycatch’, meaning species that are not wanted for sale are caught in the net, and are then thrown back overboard, but generally when they are dead. Bycatch includes all manner of sea creatures, as well as fish not included in the quota. Generally, there has been a lot of progress in this area but there’s still much further to go. You can check out various marine conservation and sustainable fishing websites for information on responsible fishing and purchasing. You’ll also find lists of fish that we should be eating less of due todepleted stocks, as well as those we should be making every effort to enjoy more of. There are also the fish ‘in the middle’, those that should be eaten occasionally – maybe a treat to enjoy once in a while!

There are literally dozens of types of fish to try! We may be unfamiliar with many of these, or unsure what to do with them, but many are becoming more commonly available. Now is the time to experiment with the unfamiliar – they just might become your everyday favourites.

If you can, choose locally caught fish in favour of those that might have been flown a long distance. This also makes us more aware of fish ‘seasons’ as some types of fish, like other foods, have seasons and are only available at certain times of the year. Some types of fish, like other foods, have seasons and are only available at certain times of the year.

Farming fish

This rapidly expanding worldwide industry can offer a sustainable alternative to over-fished wild stocks as well as cope with the increasing demand for popular species. Many are now farmed including salmon, trout, tilapia, sea bass, halibut, turbot, cod, sea bream, tuna, mussels, clams, oysters and prawns. Fish farming has suffered bad press on various aspects of its production including its use of chemicals, wild feed, lack of space, pollution and taste. Ongoing research and new techniques are working to ‘clean up’ fish farming to make it a worthy alternative to buying wild fish.

BUYING FISH

Fresh fish

Choosing quality fish is the first step to creating a beautifully cooked dish, so it’s worth being very selective. If you’re lucky enough to have a good fishmonger near you, and the quality and source of the produce is guaranteed, then you’re part way to producing a delicious dish. When buying fish it pays to be flexible about the type that you buy – the fish you want might not be available on that particular day, or you might see another variety that looks more appealing. The fishmonger will be able to advise you on substituting one fish for another, as well as on fish flavours and textures, how much you’ll need to buy and cooking methods (for when you confidently deviate from the recipes in this book!). Most importantly the fishmonger should know where and how the fish has been caught. The fish shop, or counter, should not have a strong, stale fish smell, but subtle fresh sea salt aroma. Avoid any fish, or fish counters, with a strong ammonia smell.

Choose whole fish with bright, plump eyes, rather than sunken dried ones. They should have a glossy, fresh sheen and an air of slipperiness about them – as though they’ve only just been caught. The bodies should be plump and firm with bellies intact rather than split, which might be an indication of staleness, particularly on oily fish. Fillets should look moist and succulent with flesh that holds together firmly. Avoid dull, ragged, dry looking pieces. Oily fish like mackerel, sardines and herrings deteriorate quickly so be particularly careful when choosing these.

Frozen fish

Today’s fishing vessels are fully equipped with freezers, meaning that many fresh fish caught at sea will be prepared for sale and frozen while still at sea, so it’s fished and frozen within a short time span.

White fish and shellfish are good products to buy frozen, but always make your purchase from a store with a fast turnover of stock. The flavour of fish will gradually deteriorate if it is frozen for more than six months. Fish such as salmon and trout will keep for up to three months in the freezer, but some oily fish should never be frozen.

When looking at fish that has been frozen, you need to check it in much the same way as you would fresh fish. Flesh that is browning, looks flaky or dry has probably been stored too long or incorrectly and should be avoided.

Shellfish

These fall into two groups, crustaceans and molluscs. Crustaceans include prawns, shrimps, langoustines, crab and lobster of which the latter two can be bought live as well as cooked. For the novice it’s best to buy cooked crab and lobster and extract the meat from them following the methods in the preparation techniques section. Raw prawns are now widely available and are so easy to fry, bake, grill or barbecue. Warm water prawns, including king and tiger prawns, may be 15–20 cm (6–8 in) long, though generally they’re smaller. These are usually the ones we buy raw, whereas cold-water prawns are bought ready-cooked. Cooking raw prawns couldn’t be easier, they’re ready when they turn from a bluish-grey colour to coral pink.

Molluscs are invertebrates and can be divided into three groups. Single-shelled molluscs (gastropods) include winkles, limpets and whelks, while hinged-shell molluscs (bivalves) include mussels, oysters, clams, cockles and scallops. These are the most popular of the molluscs and are best bought live for cooking at home. You’ll sometimes see ready-cooked bivalve molluscs packed in vinegar or brine. These are acceptable for adding to pies, sandwiches and pasta dishes but for the best flavour buy live ones and cook them yourself. It’s easy – and such a treat.

Cephalopods, the third group of molluscs, have no shells but soft bodies and tentacles. Squid, cuttlefish and octopus are all delicious. Squid is the easiest to deal with (see preparation techniques) and is used in several recipes in this book.

Most shellfish have seasons though some such as mussels, scallops and oysters are cultivated to produce year-round supplies. It’s harder to judge the freshness of shellfish than it is for other types of fish. If you have a good supplier of regular fish the chances are that the shellfish will be of equally good quality. There are various things to look out for. Shellfish should smell sweet, fresh and of the sea. The shells should be moist and glistening rather than dry. Whole prawns, crabs and lobsters should be completely intact without missing heads, tails, legs and pincers. Most prawns we buy have already been frozen. Those displayed on the counter, either raw or cooked, have also very likely been frozen. It’s worth asking for prawns that are still frozen as you won’t know how long the defrosted ones have been on the slab. If buying shell-on prawns, allow double the weight you’d need for shelled prawns.

The shells of mussels, clams, cockles and oysters should be tightly shut. Any open shells should close when tapped. This is, of course, difficult to do when you’re standing at the fish counter so cast your eye over the whole batch. A tray of gaping, gasping bivalves is an indication that they’re past their best. Scallops are usually bought ready shelled. These should look plump, pale and juicy, not shrivelled and wrinkly. Occasionally you’ll see scallops sold in their shells, or half shells. These are the only bivalves that don’t need to be live for cooking.

STORING FISH

Fish flesh is soft and delicate and used to cool or very cold water. As soon as it leaves this environment it starts to spoil. Commercial fishing boats, which might be out at sea for a week, have the facility to store fish on ice at a temperature of around 0°C (32°F) which keeps the fish from spoiling. Most domestic refrigerators are set at 1–5°C (34–41°F) so fish will deteriorate more quickly at this slightly higher temperature. For this reason, it’s best to cook fresh fish as soon as possible, preferably within a day of buying it. Fish should be stored in the coldest part of the refrigerator. (It’s worth buying a refrigerator thermometer to assess which area is coldest.) Arrange whole fish or fillets flat on a plate, or lipped tray, so any juices don’t drip onto other foods. Cover loosely with a damp cloth or cling film (plastic wrap). If you’ve bought whole fish, gut them as soon as it’s convenient as this part of the fish spoils first. A fishmonger will do this for you. However, techniques such as cleaning, scaling, boning, filleting and shelling seafood are skills that are easy to learn. It’s both satisfying and rewarding to know how to do them. You’ll find all the basic skills included in the book. Smoked fish should be sealed in a bag so its smokiness doesn’t permeate other foods.

Storing shellfish

Shellfish are best eaten as fresh as possible although some very fresh shellfish will keep in the refrigerator for a couple of days before eating. Unwrap and place on a plate or in a bowl and cover loosely with a dampened cloth so the shellfish can breathe but stay moist. A dishtowel that you’ve wet and wrung out is ideal. Store in the lower part of the refrigerator or salad drawer until ready to cook. Don’t submerge live mussels, cockles or clams in water. Store oysters and scallops with the rounded shell face down so the juices don’t escape. Whole squid can be prepared, and stored in the refrigerator for a couple of days. Squid and raw or cooked prawns, whole or peeled, also freeze well, as long as they haven’t already been frozen.

Freezing fish

Much of the fish that is sold in supermarkets is frozen. Freezing causes minimal damage to the structure of fish flesh provided it’s done properly. In fact, it’s better to buy frozen fish for your cooking rather than fresh fish that is of dubious quality.

If you’re freezing fish that you’ve bought fresh, scale and gut it first if bought whole. Thoroughly dry fish on kitchen paper as water expands on freezing and will damage the texture of the fish. Wrap well in freezer bags, eliminating as much air as possible and label before freezing. You might know what you’re putting in the freezer but you might not remember what it is three months later. White fish and smoked white fish freeze better than oily. Thaw fish overnight in the refrigerator, or using a microwave.

PREPARATION TECHNIQUES

This chapter covers all the preparation techniques for fish and shellfish prior to cooking so that you can see how easy it is to master such skills as filleting, boning or skinning a fish. Like most techniques you might find that you work slowly at first (and that your attempts might be a little ragged), but all are achievable with just a little practice and a few decent tools. A good fishmonger will do all the preparation for you of course, but it’s better to do it yourself, or at least know how to do it should the occasion arise when you’re presented with a whole, freshly caught specimen. Don’t forget to keep all the trimmings and bones for homemade stock, see basic recipes.

Fish can be divided into two main groups, round and flat, and within these groups the preparation techniques are very similar regardless of fish type. Preparation usually depends on the way in which the fish is going to be cooked so refer to your chosen recipe before you start.

Trimming fins

Some round fish have incredibly spiky fins that can be removed before cooking, if you prefer.

Use sturdy kitchen scissors and simply cut away the fins, keeping the scissors as close to the body as you can.

Work from the tail to the head end for best results.

Scaling

Fish scales vary in size from coarse, brittle ones present on fish like snapper and sea bass, to the softer, smaller ones on flat fish. The texture of scales is unpleasant to eat so are best removed before cooking, particularly if you intend to eat the skin. They also spoil the appearance of the fish. If you can’t see any visible scales on the fish and want to check whether the fish needs scaling or that the fishmonger hasn’t done it already, run a knife from the tail end upward to see whether it lifts any scales. Scaling is a messy job as they tend to fly in all directions as you remove them, and are difficult to track down on kitchen work surfaces because they are translucent. To overcome this, put the fish in the sink and just cover with cold water as you work or tuck the fish into a plastic bag to catch the scales. Work from the tail towards the head by running a fish scaler or the back of a knife from the tail toward the head end. Turn the fish and repeat on the other side before rinsing the fish under cold running water. A few fish such as mackerel, herrings and lemon sole do not need scaling.

Removing gills from a round fish

However you’re cooking your fish, removing the gills isn’t an essential procedure though they do have a bitter flavour that can taint the rest of the fish, particularly if it’s poached. They also filter impurities and (like the guts) are quick to deteriorate once the fish is dead. For this reason they’re often removed before cooking. Lift the gill flap (the hard, rounded section at the side of the head that looks like a giant scale) and cut out the gills with scissors. Repeat on the other side of the head. On smaller fish such as mackerel, sardines and herrings you might find it easier to pull out the gills through the gutted stomach cavity.

Gutting a whole round fish

Some fish, usually flat fish, are gutted before you buy them. If you buy whole fish, gut it (or them) as soon as you get home because this is the part of the fish that spoils first.

Arrange the fish on a board and press the belly down flat with one hand. (Gutting is a messy job so you might want to cover the board with newspaper or a bag before you start.) Push the tip of a knife into the belly and work towards the vent and then head end of the fish.

Scrape out the contents of the cavity and any areas of blood clinging under the backbone using the tip of the knife. Rinse the fish under cold running water.

Scoring round fish

Scoring a whole fish helps speed up cooking and allows seasonings, marinades or rubs to penetrate the flesh. Using a sharp knife make deep diagonal cuts into the flesh, making the cuts about 2–4 cm (¾–1½ in) apart depending on the size of the fish.

Skinning fish fillets

The dark skin side of flat fish was once considered inferior to the white side and dark skin fillets were even cheaper to buy. Now that crispy fried fish skin is popular we’d never consider it inferior though there are some recipes that are best using skinned fillets. Use this easy technique for both round and flat fish fillets.

Place the fillet, skin side down, on the board and grip the tail end firmly with one hand. Slip a large or filleting knife between the flesh and skin at the tail end. Use a sawing action as you work towards the thick end of the fillet. By pulling at the skin with your free hand you’ll make it easier for the knife to work between skin and flesh.

It sometimes helps to rub your fingers with a little salt before gripping the end of the skin as it can be a bit slippery.

Removing pin bones

Pin bones are the stray bones that are often found in fish fillets. They’re always found at the thick end of the fillet where it was once attached to the rib area. These are easy to remove using ordinary tweezers or better still, fish tweezers specifically designed for the job.

Feel along the fillet with your fingers to locate the bones. Grasp the top of the bone with the tweezers and pull away quickly.

Skinning Dover sole

The dark skin side of Dover sole has a more leathery texture than lemon sole or plaice. Because the flesh is considered such a treat the skin is often removed before cooking. Although not a technique cook’s use frequently, it’s a good skill to add to your repertoire.

Make a shallow cut across the skin, just above the tail. Push the knife in between the skin and flesh until you’ve a little pocket that you can push your finger into.

Work your finger between the skin and flesh until you’ve released an area of skin that’s large enough to get a grip on.

Salt the fingers of both hands. Hold the tail with one and the released skin with the other. Give the skin a sharp tug so it comes away in one piece.

If the skin starts to pull the flesh away with it, use the tip of a knife to release the skin and try again.

Boning small whole fish

This technique is easier than it looks, and is great for removing all the bones from small fish such as herrings, sardines and small mackerel. Serving them like this is sensible for those who don’t like fiddling with bones.

Cut the heads off the gutted fish and place the fish skinside uppermost on a board, opening out the underside so the fish sits as flat as possible. Press down firmly along the backbone with the thumb or heel of the hand, depending on the size of the fish. You’ll feel the bone being released from the flesh. Turn the fish over. Grip the end of the backbone and pull it away from the flesh, using your other hand to remove any bits of flesh that are clinging to the bone. Cut off the bone and tail end using kitchen scissors, or, if you want the tail attached for presentation, snip off the backbone just above the tail.

Boning monkfish

Monkfish is always sold skinned and often filleted. If you buy fillets, particularly smaller ones with the central bone still intact, it’s very easy to remove.

Feel along the thick end of the central bone with your fingers to locate it. Slip the tip of a knife down one side of the bone working from the head to tail end, cutting right through the fillet so it can be completely removed.

Repeat on the other side. Any dark mottled areas of membrane should also be removed by sliding a knife between it and the firm white flesh.