Fireside Food for Cold Winter Night E-Book

Lizzie Kamenetzky

• Herausgeber: Ryland Peters & Small
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2021

Beschreibung

Winter is the perfect time to stay indoors and prepare comforting home-cooked meals. Lizzie Kamenetzky takes her inspiration from snow-covered mountains, ski towns and cosy winter cabins, to bring you recipes that are perfect for snuggling up against the cold in front of a crackling log fire. Enjoy these delicious recipes from dawn till dusk. Start your day with coffee and a sugar-dusted breakfast bake, still warm from the oven. Rustle up a hearty winter salad or serve a bowl of steaming soup for lunch, as you look forward to a satisfying plate of dumplings, or a rich casserole come the evening. Create creamy gratins, tasty supper skillets, slow-cooked meats and deep-filled pies, or entertain your friends with a traditional cheese fondue. Finish your indulgent meal with a rustic fruit tart, or a baked soufflé spiked with a little warming winter spirit. Whatever your craving, you will find the perfect recipe to satisfy it here, as winter food has never been so comforting or delicious.

Leseprobe

FIRESIDE FOOD

for COLD WINTER NIGHTS

FIRESIDE FOOD

for COLD WINTER NIGHTS

More than 75 comforting and warming recipes

LIZZIE KAMENETZKY

Photography by

NASSIMA ROTHACKER

Senior Designer Toni Kay

Editor Kate Eddison

Head of Production Patricia Harrington

Art Director Leslie Harrington

Editorial Director Julia Charles

Publisher Cindy Richards

Prop Stylist Polly Webb-Wilson

Food Stylist Lizzie Kamenetzky

Indexer Vanessa Bird

Originally published in 2015 as Winter Cabin Cooking. This revised and abridged edition published in 2021 by Ryland Peters & Small

20–21 Jockey’s Fields

London WC1R 4BW

and

341 E 116th St

New York NY 10029

www.rylandpeters.com

Text © Lizzie Kamenetzky 2015, 2021.

Design and photographs © Ryland Peters & Small 2015, 2021.

ISBN: 978-1-78879-277-6

E-ISBN: 978-1-78879-412-1

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

The author’s moral rights have been asserted. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher.

A CIP record for this book is available from the British Library.

US Library of Congress CIP data has been applied for.

Printed and bound in China

Notes

• Both British (Metric) and American (Imperial plus US cups) measurements are included in these recipes for your convenience. Work with one set of measurements only and not alternate between the two within a recipe.

• All spoon measurements are level unless otherwise stated.

• Eggs are medium (UK) or large (US) unless otherwise specified. Uncooked or partly cooked eggs should not be served to the very old, the frail, young children, pregnant women or those with compromised immune systems.

• When a recipe calls for the grated zest of citrus fruit, buy unwaxed fruit and wash well before using. If you can only find treated fruit, scrub well in warm soapy water before using.

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION

WINTER SALADS & SMALL PLATES

DUMPLINGS & NOODLES

HEARTY SOUPS & STEWS

GRATINS & MELTING CHEESE

FIRESIDE SUPPERS

SWEET BAKES & FORK CAKES

WINTER DESSERTS

WARMING DRINKS

INDEX

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

INTRODUCTION

Mountains are a place of magic. From the smallest Cairngorm to the highest Rocky or Himalaya, there is something that draws you in, and up. I love the way you feel so small in the mountains, their untameable peaks watching over you from above. Breathing in that clear, crisp mountain air, just thinking about it makes me ravenously hungry.

The pace of mountain life is something that we should all embrace from time to time. We move so fast through our lives, always rushing, never enough time to cook, to eat, to enjoy, but in the mountains, life slows down. You can’t get anywhere fast in the mountains, so you might as well relax and let it wash over you. These are places of long, schnapps-filled lunches and relaxed, laid back dinners with friends and family as the snow falls quietly around and time ceases to matter.

I’ve been lucky enough to grow up spending many happy holidays in the mountains and confess to being completely besotted with the way of life there, but more than anything I love the food. It is real, honest food that I want to get stuck into with both hands. In many ways unchanged for years. The emphasis is on local produce, with each region of the mountains having its specialities of which it is inordinately proud.

Winter is a particularly amazing time in any mountain range, and it is this winter fare that this book celebrates. Hearty food for cold days, full of flavour and warmth.

I learned to ski from a young age. My childhood vacations were not spent in the big Alpine resorts (although in later years I have visited and skied in many of them, and grown to love them in their own way), instead my parents chose to spend our breaks in a small and beautiful village, nestled in the Swiss Alps in the shadow of Mont Dolon and the Grand St Bernard Pass. When I am there, I can imagine the monks in centuries past, on their fur-lined skis, climbing the passes to their lofty monasteries, offering welcome sanctuary and simple repast to travellers and pilgrims coming in from the snow.

As the snow falls and covers the trees and cabins, a hush falls over the mountains. I could stand for hours just watching and listening to the snow fall, the way it makes everything so quiet that your ears somehow ring with the absence of sound. Even better is watching the snow from inside a cosy cabin, with a fire crackling and a steaming bowl of hot chocolate to warm you.

The mountains of Central Europe are famous for their variety of traditional dishes beloved by skiers and non-skiers alike. The food has developed over the centuries, influenced by the countries that make up its whole.

There are the Western Alps of Slovenia and Austria (the Tyrol) with their rich stews, noodles and dumplings. Further to the East you have Switzerland, France, Germany and Liechtenstein, famous for Savoie cheeses, rustic breads, schnitzels and sausages. In the South are Italy and Monaco, full of warming ragùs, polenta and gnocchi. Where the borders of these countries meet, the most wonderful fusion of flavours and traditions mingle to create some truly spectacular and memorable dishes for which the region as a whole has become famous.

Skiing is not just part of European culture, however, and, as a vacation, it has taken off around the world. The skiing food culture in the US and Canada has taken much of its influence from the mountain regions of Europe, but with their own twists and the additions of various celebrated national dishes.

Even if you don’t enjoy throwing yourself down a frozen mountain on little wooden planks, you cannot fail to fall in love with the simplicity and deliciousness of the food of the mountains. The romanticism of the traditional ski chalet, of coming in from the cold air with rosy cheeks to be greeted by the amazing warmth and aroma of a hearty supper. This is food for warming the soul, for snuggling up against the cold chill outside. For firesides and crackling logs, blankets and slippers.

If you love the mountains, wherever you are from, then this book will inspire, delight and encourage you to bring these wonderful dishes into your own kitchen.

WINTER SALADS & SMALL PLATES

SALAD PAYSANNE

‘Peasant salad’, the name of this dish, seems to me like a misnomer, as it is filled with all kinds of delicious goodies – those mountain peasants of old really do seem to have had all the best ingredients lying around!

500 g/1 lb. 2 oz. new potatoes

200 g/7 oz. smoked bacon lardons

1 tablespoon olive oil

a knob of butter

75 g/3 oz. stale crusty bread, torn into pieces

4 eggs

75 g/3 oz. Comté cheese, cut into small cubes

4 vine cherry tomatoes, sliced

a small bunch of fresh chives, chopped

½ frisée lettuce, torn

FOR THE DRESSING

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

1 garlic clove, crushed

a pinch of sugar

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

sea salt and ground black pepper

SERVES 4

Cook the potatoes in boiling, salted water for 15–20 minutes until tender. Drain and slice. Put in a serving bowl.

Heat a frying pan/skillet over a medium heat and fry the lardons until they are golden and crisp and have released all their fat. Scoop from the pan and add to the potatoes, leaving the fat in the pan.

Add the olive oil and butter to the pan with the bacon fat and add the torn bread. Fry until golden and crisp. Toss with the potatoes.

Make the dressing by whisking the mustard with the garlic, sugar, vinegar and seasoning, then whisk in the oil until you have a glossy emulsion. Pour half over the warm potatoes, bacon and croûtons, and toss well.

Put the eggs in a pan of cold water, bring to the boil and cook for 4 minutes. Drain and run the eggs under cold water to stop the cooking, then peel the eggs and set aside.

Add the Comté cheese, cherry tomatoes, chopped chives and lettuce to the serving bowl with the potatoes and toss everything together.

Halve the eggs and place on top of the salad. Serve immediately, drizzled with extra dressing.

SALAD MÊLÈE

This is a mixed salad by any other name, so anything goes! I am particularly fond of the salads at Maurice et Mauricette in the Swiss village in the Valais that I have been visiting with my family for nearly 30 years. The restaurant used to be called Bernard after its patron, André-Bernard Gross, a local ski-touring god and mountain-climbing legend, who looked like a rock star with flowing locks, Cuban heels and a penchant for lacy (ladies) underwear that you could see peeking out from the top of his leather trousers. A legend no doubt, but since M&M have taken over this lovely mountain spot, the food has become what it is famous for!

12–16 (depending on thickness) asparagus spears, white and green

120 g/4 oz. green beans

1 large carrot, cut into matchsticks

200 g/7 oz. chèvre goat’s cheese rounds

1 egg, beaten

50 g/⅔ cup dried breadcrumbs

vegetable oil, to fry

90 g/3½ oz. mixed baby salad leaves, such as baby beetroot/beet and lamb’s lettuce

1 radicchio, torn

50 g/⅓ cup walnuts

2 tablespoons cider vinegar

a pinch of sugar

4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

sea salt and ground black pepper

SERVES 2

Plunge the asparagus and beans into boiling water for a couple of minutes then drain and refresh under cold water. Toss with the carrot.

Dip each round of goat’s cheese in the beaten egg then coat in the breadcrumbs. Heat a good layer of oil in a non-stick frying pan/skillet and fry the cheese until golden on both sides. Drain on paper towels.

Mix the vegetables with the leaves and divide between two plates. Scatter with the walnuts. Whisk the vinegar with salt, pepper and a pinch of sugar, then gradually whisk in the oil. Pour over the salads then top with the fried cheese.

SALADE MONTAGNARDE

Here is a dish that has many names and varying ingredients, depending on where you are in the Alps, unsurprising as its name means ‘salad of the mountain dwellers’. I have based mine on a fantastic lunch I had in Méribel, where five of us crowded around a tiny terrace table eating poulet frite and salade montagnarde, washed down with lots of rosé.

500 ml/2 cups chicken stock

350 g/heaping 1¾ cups Puy lentils

5 fresh thyme sprigs

oil, to fry

200 g/7 oz. smoked bacon lardons

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

a pinch of sugar

1 fat garlic clove, crushed

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 sweet onion, thinly sliced

sea salt and ground black pepper

SERVES 4

Bring the stock to the boil, then tip in the lentils and thyme and plenty of seasoning. Simmer for 15–20 minutes until the lentils are tender.

Meanwhile, heat a pan with a little oil and fry the lardons until golden and crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and reserve the fat.

Whisk the vinegar with a pinch of sugar, some salt and pepper, the garlic and mustard. Gradually whisk in the oil, then whisk in the reserved bacon fat.

Drain the lentils and toss with the dressing and the lardons. Tip onto a serving plate and scatter with the onion, then serve.

CHICKEN LIVER PARFAIT

Nothing beats a really rich and smooth chicken liver parfait. There are two ways of making parfait, but this version is by far the simplest and quickest. Although it doesn’t have quite the amazing pink colour of a slow-cooked bain-marie parfait, its taste is just as good.

350 g/3 sticks unsalted butter

500 g/1lb. 2oz. chicken livers, trimmed

2 tablespoons brandy

freshly grated nutmeg

a pinch of ground allspice

sea salt and ground black pepper

600-ml/2½-cup dish

SERVES 8–10

Melt 200 g/1¾ sticks of the butter in a pan, then leave to cool. Brush the dish with a little of the melted butter and set aside.

Melt 50 g/3½ tablespoons of the butter in another pan, season the livers and fry them over a medium-high heat until brown on each side, but still pink in the middle. Add the brandy and flambé by carefully lighting with a match or flame to burn off the excess alcohol, then tip into a food processor.

Gradually add the cooled melted butter, whizzing all the time, until you have a smooth mixture. Season with some nutmeg, allspice and plenty of salt and pepper. Strain into the greased dish. Chill in the fridge for 30 minutes.

Melt the remaining 100 g/7 tablespoons of butter then pour off just the clear butter and discard any milk solids at the bottom of the pan. Pour over the parfait and chill until set. Serve with brioche toasts and fruit jelly of your choice.

PORK RILLETTES

A simple classic, slow-cooked pork belly needs very little adornment. My accompanying little pickle cuts through the meatiness of the pork, lifting it and bringing out its sweet flavour, although it is just as delicious with cornichons and pickled baby onions.

1.5-kg/3¼-lb. piece boneless fatty pork belly

12 juniper berries, crushed

3 bay leaves

10 black peppercorns

a handful of fresh thyme sprigs

3 garlic cloves, peeled

sea salt

FOR THE PICKLED RED ONION

2 red onions, thinly sliced

75 ml/scant ⅓ cup distilled malt vinegar

30 g/2½ tablespoons caster/superfine sugar

1 star anise

5 peppercorns

SERVES 8

Preheat the oven to 150°C (300°F) Gas 2.

Put the pork in a deep roasting pan with the remaining ingredients and a good handful of sea salt. Pour over 350 ml/1½ cups water and cover with foil. Cook for 3–4 hours until completely tender and falling apart.

Remove the meat from the pan and strain the pan juices into a jug/pitcher, then discard the herbs and spices. Shred the meat with two forks, discarding the skin (unless you want to turn up the oven and make it into crackling), then pack into small sterilized jars. Pour over the reserved liquid and allow to cool. Chill for at least 30 minutes.

To make the pickled red onion, put the onions in a bowl. Heat the vinegar in a small pan with the sugar and spices, until the sugar has dissolved. Pour the hot liquid over the onion and leave to cool.

Bring the rillettes to room temperature before serving with the pickled red onion, cornichons and toast.