Fridge Raid E-Book

Megan Davies

• Herausgeber: Ryland Peters & Small
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2021

Beschreibung

Want to save time, money and energy by using up your existing food stocks rather than constantly grocery shopping and then struggling to use up leftovers? Here Megan Davies shows how, by helping you develop intuition for using what you already have in your kitchen. She shares her vibrant, accessible and, most importantly, flexible recipes for kitchen-foraged meals that can be rustled up just by looking in the fridge or store cupboard. Each recipe has a highly inventive ingredients table, showing how to swap and substitute ingredients, depending on what you have to hand, making it easy to ring the changes and work with what you have. Cooking this way is something that comes naturally to Megan and here she shares her secrets, to equip you with the skills and tricks needed to make your own food go further, whilst at the same time refreshing your weeknight meal roster and enjoying some weekend feasting.

Leseprobe

FRIDGE RAID

MEGAN DAVIES

FRIDGE

RAID

FLEXIBLE, KITCHEN-FORAGED RECIPES FOR LOW-WASTE MEALS

PHOTOGRAPHY BY RITA PLATTS

DEDICATION

To the wriggling sproglet in my tummy, who has also been a taste tester for the entire book without even knowing!

Senior Designer Megan Smith

Senior Editor Gillian Haslam

Head of Production Patricia Harrington

Art Director Leslie Harrington

Editorial Director Julia Charles

Publisher Cindy Richards

Food Stylist Megan Davies

Food Stylist’s Assistant Sarah Vassallo

Prop Stylist Hannah Wilkinson

Indexer Hilary Bird

Cover Illustrator Bryony Clarkson

Published in 2021

by Ryland Peters & Small

20–21 Jockey’s Fields

London WC1R 4BW

and

341 E 116th St

New York NY 10029

www.rylandpeters.com

Text © Megan Davies 2021

Design and photographs © Ryland Peters & Small 2021

Cover illustration © Bryony

Clarkson 2021

ISBN: 978-1-78879-361-2

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

The author’s moral rights have been asserted. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher.

Printed and bound in China.

CIP data from the Library of Congress has been applied for. A CIP record for this book is available from the British Library.

NOTES

* Both British (metric) and American (imperial plus US cup) measurements are included in these recipes; however, it is important to work with one set of measurements and not alternate between the two within a recipe.

* All butter is salted unless specified.

* All eggs are medium (UK) or large (US), unless specified as large, in which case US extra-large should be used. Uncooked or partially cooked eggs should not be served to the very old, frail, young children, pregnant women or those with compromised immune systems.

* Ovens should be preheated to the specified temperatures.

We recommend using an oven thermometer.

* When a recipe calls for the grated zest of citrus fruit, buy unwaxed fruit and wash well before using. If you can only find treated fruit, scrub well in warm soapy water before using.

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION

USEFUL COOKING TIPS

EVERYDAY STAPLES

KITCHEN CONDIMENTS

SPRING

SUMMER

AUTUMN

WINTER

INDEX

THANK YOUS

INTRODUCTION

Fridge Raid is an honest, practical and, I hope, very useful cookbook. There aren’t lists of fancy ingredients or 10-hour recipes scattered across the pages; instead you will find a collection of humble, flexible, simple recipes, the majority of which were originally genuine ‘fridge-foraged’ meals that I came up with on the spot in my kitchen here in London.

The moment I thought of gathering together all these ideas into a book, I started writing down my recipes, continuing to do so throughout the four seasons and found I had gathered almost a book’s worth of content! These recipes were conjured up using nothing but a notebook and what I had in the fridge, freezer, cupboard, vegetable rack or fruit bowl. Of course, I then fine-tuned the list and topped up with some new dishes to round things off, but the majority of this book really is a compilation of naturally developed ‘fridge raid’ meals.

As I hadn’t yet shared my book idea with my publisher, this process of ‘invention without pressure’ not only allowed me to create recipes freely, but it also made me reflect on the way we run our kitchens. Rummaging around to see which limp herbs I needed to use up or which canned beans I might find in the cupboard made me really acknowledge the food and produce we have access to, and, in such a disposable culture, how important it is to cherish each ingredient. How? Simply by using those ingredients in the most efficient and sustainable way, stretching, utilizing, being inventive and flexible! I don’t mean fermenting or pickling everything in sight – I just mean respecting what we’ve spent our hard-earned cash on and making it stretch as far as possible. It’s also very similar to how our grandparents (and their parents) used to run their kitchens. This is what Fridge Raid is all about.

I have divided the book into six main sections, the majority of which are dictated by the seasons, reflecting the produce that is at its best and the things I particularly crave at those times of year. So you’ll find warming stews and slow-cook meals in the winter chapter, barbecue recipes and bold salads in the summer chapter, and so on. I have also tried always to include store-cupboard items in every recipe, so that if you can’t get hold of the fresh ingredients that I suggest, you can use what you’ve got.

One of the other recipe chapters that opens the book is Everyday Staples where I’ve laid out some basic ingredients you are quite likely to have at home, and based recipes around those hero ingredients. We’ve got eggs, cheese, milk and yogurt, bread, then pastry and potatoes. Some of them are very basic, and some of them involve more preparation, but all of them are focused on the ‘staple’ ingredient. Also at the front of the book is the Kitchen Condiments chapter, where you’ll find dips, sauces, dressings, spreads and chutneys that can liven up any sandwich, loaded toast, simple supper or boring salad. They’re very straight forward, too. It can be exhausting to feel as though you have to jazz up every meal of the week (there’s also not enough time) but what you can do is make a batch of condiments one slow Sunday, leave them in the fridge and know that when you grab a quick bagel, bowl of soup or eggs on toast, you’ve got a great additional dip or sauce to freshen things up (and possibly clear out the salad drawer).

So, that’s all the chapters explained, which leads me on to telling you about the ingredients tables that I’ve conjured up for you. In my last book, I included a couple of notes at the bottom of every single recipe sharing brief ‘swap-in’ and ‘leftovers’ ideas, in order to help inspire you to use what you’ve got and to stretch your food. My ingredients tables are basically a deep dive into this concept and the aim is to encourage you to develop an intuition when it comes to swapping alternative ingredients for the original ones I started with.

On every recipe you’ll see a simple, two-column table. The left-hand side shows the original ingredients I created the recipe with, which you are more than welcome to abide by; however I actually encourage you to use that as a (close) guide, but then refer to the right-hand column and see the alternative suggestions for other ingredients that would work well, too. This will help you save money, shopping time, energy in all its guises and make use of your existing stock! I have tried to add several alternative ideas for every ingredient, but there’s no need to stick even to those, if you have another that you think could work, try it! You can’t go too far wrong, I promise. I’ve also added tips alongside each recipe, to suggest what goes well with each dish and inspiration for what to do with any leftovers.

Finally, on the following pages I’ve added a few notes on seasoning, oils, food prep, storage and so on. It’s simple, confidence-boosting advice on getting the most out of the food you’ve bought and running your kitchen more sustainably.

So, go raid the fridge and cupboards, see what you’ve got and find a recipe in here that suits. I really hope you enjoy using this book and gain more than just a lovely meal or two out of it. Happy sustainable cooking and even happier raiding!

USEFUL COOKING TIPS

Here I’ve shared a handful of simple cooking tips and advice that will not only aid you in using this book with ease, but also generally in the kitchen. Having a base knowledge of oils, seasoning and nuggets of prepping information will really help confidence and flow when cooking. So, have a read through and refer back if you’re ever stuck.

SEASONING INGREDIENTS

 I always use sea salt flakes for seasoning during and after cooking.

 When seasoning water for pasta, grains or veg, I use cheaper, fine sea salt crystals (table salt is also ok).

 You can use mixed peppercorns, or white pepper, but my go-to (like most people) is freshly cracked black pepper.

 Try out ingredients instead of salt: soy sauce or tamari (gluten-free soy), Marmite/yeast extract, Bovril or hard cheeses, like Parmesan. Also, olives, capers and anchovies are staples in my kitchen and often get thrown in as an alternative salty hit with more depth.

SEASONING TIPS AND NOTES ON BALANCE

 Season throughout the cooking process – I’ll often prompt you to do this in my recipes. Don’t forget the most important thing about seasoning, though, is to taste! Taste, season, taste and season again. In my opinion, people often under-season, which is just a confidence thing, so don’t be shy! We are often told how bad for us salt and butter are, but I say just get it in there.

 If you think something is too salty, give it a dash of sweetness to even things out (honey or any sugar for example).

 Likewise, try a squeeze of lemon or lime juice, which lifts and cuts through a dish. Fragrant herbs also help with this; parsley or mint, say.

 If something is too sweet, use the tip above but the other way around – add something salty (or spicy for that matter)!

 If something is too spicy, add a mellowing ingredient (either folded in or served alongside); dairy is your best friend here: milk, yogurt, cheese, cream, crème fraîche etc.

 If something tastes sour, or too tart, add sweetness.

 Making a salad dressing is a great way to train your taste buds and put your intuition to the test – more mustard, more honey, more vinegar, some lemon. See how you get on!

OILS AND FATS – WHAT TO USE AND WHEN

 Rapeseed/canola/veg/sunflower oil: These are the oils with a high burning point (least likely to burn your food at high temperatures), but generally with a much milder (or no) flavour. Use these when you want to get things nice and crisp (high-heat frying, hot and quick or deep frying). Rapeseed/canola is my favourite and the best for you (most labelled veg oils in the UK are pure rapeseed oil).

 Olive oil: My most used ‘cooking oil’, I use olive oil for so many things, including medium-heat frying and roasting. You can’t go too far wrong with olive oil – it has a lovely flavour and is very versatile.

 Extra virgin olive oil: Don’t cook with it – it’s the most expensive and luxurious! Save it for salad dressings, no-cook sauces, drizzling and finishing dishes with. If you save it for these times, then you can use it liberally with joy!

 Butter and ghee (clarified butter): You can use it whenever you might use olive oil, so for low-to medium-heat frying/pan cooking. Note that butter will burn quicker, so watch out. Anything cooked in butter is always going to be dreamy and I love using it. It can be used in a pan and in the oven. Add it to veg or grains, as you would when roasting a chicken, it’s lush.

 Sesame or nut oils: For flavouring salad dressings or drizzling on finished dishes, like extra virgin olive oil. However, I often use sesame oil (mixed with rapeseed/canola oil) for medium-high frying, such as in the Tofu Noodles with Mushrooms and Marmite (page 77).

 Coconut oil: I have to say I’m not a fan, unless there is coconut present in the actual recipe (like my Yellow Fish Curry, page 81), then I would happily use it. To me it’s over-powering when used in Western dishes so I avoid it. But, if you like it, by all means use it.

PREPPING VEG AND HERBS

 I tend not to peel anything, so unless I specify, don’t either. It’s a waste, there’s plenty of goodness in the skin or peel of produce and all skin really needs is a good rinse in cold water to get rid of any soil or pesticides. Skins (when fried or roasted) also add a lovely texture and bite, so it’s also enjoyable!

 The same goes for herb stalks – if they’re soft, use them all. Freeze or chuck hard stems into water jugs/pitchers. If you don’t like the idea of whole stalks with your leafy herb garnish, thinly slice the stalks and add them to the pan with your onion/veg.

 A couple of notes on ginger: I don’t peel it. The skin has a really great kick and whilst it may feel weird, you won’t notice once it’s been cooked. It adds a welcome warmth to your dish, and no peeling means less waste and effort. Also, I find grating ginger is a faff and you lose lots of it (both juice and flesh) in the process, so I cut it into thin matchsticks.

SPICES

 As you can imagine, I’m not fussy about whole or ground spices. Of course, it’s great for authenticity to use what’s asked for, but I’m more about using what you’ve got. So if a recipe suggests one but you have the other – use it!

 Obviously whole spices are better for texture, and if you crush them they release lovely oils and fragrance, but there’s no need to buy them if you have a perfectly good ground version already in the cupboard.

SUBSTITUTIONS AND SWAPPING IN

 I won’t write much about this here because I have shared lots of ideas in every single recipe as you’ll see. The main point is to use what you’ve got, I really mean this.

 As you start to cook in this way, you will begin to develop an idea about what works well, what you like (and don’t). It’s all about confidence. Use the table and the options I’ve suggested to get you going and see where you end up.

 The beauty of savoury cooking (and most of this book’s recipes are, for that exact reason) is that you can change stuff up a bit and the recipe will still work pretty well.

 Obviously baking and sweet foods are more ‘restricted’ in terms of playing with their ingredients and quantities, so that’s why I’ve not focused too much on puddings and sweets.

STERILIZING JARS FOR FOOD STORAGE

 Storing chutneys, pickles or any homemade, long-life food needs to be done using a freshly sterilized jar. It sounds annoying, but it’s so easy – there are two options:

 Run it through your dishwasher, job done. Or…

 Preheat the oven to 150ºC fan/170ºC/325ºF/Gas 3, wash the jars and lids with warm soapy water, rinse, then place the clean (but still wet) jars upside down on a baking sheet. Transfer to the oven and ‘sterilize’ in there for 15 minutes. Let them cool, then fill with whatever you want.

 If your jars have removable rubber seals, wash these by hand.

STORING THINGS IN THE FRIDGE

 Treat yourself to some good-quality sealable containers, or like me, hoard plastic takeaway/take-out containers and allocate a proper home for them in the kitchen so you always have something to pop leftovers in. If that part is easy, you’re less likely to find it a faff saving, stretching and repurposing your food.

 I have to say, whilst ‘food safety’ is very important, you can also just pop an upside-down plate on top of a bowl to avoid food drying out in the fridge.

 One other very beneficial practice is keeping your fridge organized. Have separate and constant areas (or shelves, depending on fridge size) for dairy, meat, veg, salads, herbs, root veg and condiments. It sounds simple, but again, you will benefit from this!

 Label every item you freeze. You’re way more likely to actually use those frozen breadcrumbs, leftover caramel sauce tubs, stock trimmings and frozen ragù if you actually know what they are when you find them six months later.

WASTE

 Don’t throw out food with the rest of your household trash! If you have food waste to get rid of, please compost it.

 If you don’t already have a food and garden waste bin at home, your council may be able to provide you with one. If you have the space, create your own compost pile at the bottom of the garden and use it!

 When you are cooking, grab a couple of bowls for waste. Use one for normal waste (unrecyclable packaging) and the other for food waste, and if you have any recyclable packaging, throw it in the sink so it gets cleaned and put in the recycling. This sounds really basic but it’s so easy not to bother when you’re in a rush or tired. It’s all about habit, so be strict for a couple of weeks and you’ll end up doing so without thinking.

 Then, when you’re done, go through that food waste bowl and freeze what might be able to be saved. The two main groups I would focus on are trimmings and bones for stock, then fruit peel and trimmings for drinks!

 Obviously, keep any raw meat separate to the veg or fruit you might re-purpose, so keep an eye on that.

 I have three big freezer bags always on the go that I add to as and when. One is for bones (raw and cooked), another for all the veg and herb trimmings and peelings (think root veg, onion skins, carrot tops, leeks, herb trimmings or hardy stalks, celeriac/celery root, swede/rutabaga, spring onions/scallions, cabbage etc) for making stocks, and one that I add fruit peelings and trimmings to, which I add to water jugs/pitchers in the summer for flavour, without spending money on fresh fruit, but to the same effect (and it’s frozen so acts like ice!).

 If it’s a fruit that goes brown once cut, such as apple wedges, just squeeze some lemon or lime juice over it to avoid this.

 I always freeze blackened bananas separately. They are incredible for baking when black, frozen and de-frosted. Amazingly sweet and so soft they’re almost runny.

 Start doing all of the above and you will have an abundant stock pan before you know it, bountiful jugs of fruity water and have made all that produce double, if not triple, in its use.

EVERYDAY

STAPLES

EGGS

EGGS & CHEESE ON TOAST

I’m killing two birds with one stone here. I love eggs on toast and I love on cheese on toast. This is a combo of the two, with an encased runny egg in the centre and a rich, bubbling cheese mix on top. It’s really simple and is a great pimped-up, yet simple lunch. Use whatever cheese, chutney or mustard you have, and the same goes for bread. The only thing you really do need is an egg.

2 large slices of sourdough bread

Use any bread. If frozen, defrost in the toaster

2 eggs

Essential, but any size can be used

180 g/6½ oz. mature Cheddar

Any cheese – hard is best, but you can use soft if it’s all you have

20 g/4 teaspoons Dijon mustard

Wholegrain or English, or even mustard powder (in which case, halve the amount)

40 g/2 tablespoons mango chutney

Any chutney, or a mix of several

Worcestershire sauce

A little apple cider or balsamic vinegar

sea salt and freshly ground pepper

SERVES 2

TOTAL TIME 15 MINUTES

Preheat the oven to 250ºC fan/270ºC/500ºF/Gas 10, or as hot as your oven will go.

Toast the bread (either in the toaster, or both sides under the grill/broiler), then place the slices in a single layer on a large baking sheet. Using your fist, press down firmly on the centre of each piece of toast, to make a wide well for the egg.

Grate the cheese into a bowl, then add the mustard, chutney, a few shakes of Worcestershire sauce and a pinch of seasoning. Mix well to combine.

Crack an egg into each of the toast wells, then place the baking sheet in the preheated oven on the highest shelf for 4 minutes. Remove from the oven and top each toast with the cheese mixture. Return to the oven and bake for another 4 minutes until the eggs are set with a runny yolk and the cheese is melted, bubbly and golden.

Remove from the oven, let sit for 30 seconds, then eat immediately.

GOES WELL WITH Brown Sauce (page 63).

LEFTOVERS Unlikely to be any!

BAKED EGGS

Baked eggs are the perfect Sunday night supper, when you’ve had a big lunch and just want something comforting but simple to eat in front of the TV. The fillings can be determined by what you have in the fridge. It might be leftover roast items, a curry, stir-fried greens, a chilli/chile… there are so many options (see below for inspiration). I add the fillings and then the egg, adding lighter things like cheese, cream or herbs on top, but have a go and see which way you like best.

2 teaspoons butter, at room temperature

Any oil

4–5 tablespoons filling per egg: see across for some ideas

Leftover roasted veg, ragù, cooked meat, baked beans, meaty curry, dahl, soup, stir fry, pasta sauce (any kind), fresh leafy greens, sliced raw tomatoes, smoked salmon, sliced mushrooms, fresh soft herbs, fresh spinach, cooked potato slices, chips/fries, cheese, leftover fry-up or Sunday roast items, ricotta, stew, tagine… the list goes on!

4 eggs

Essential, but any size can be used

4 tablespoons single/light cream

Not essential, but I like a slosh of cream in baked eggs

sea salt and freshly ground pepper

toast, to serve

SERVES 4

TOTAL TIME 15–20 MINUTES

4 ramekins or a couple of shallow ovenproof dishes, depending whether you want individual baked eggs or a sharing set-up

Preheat the oven to 230ºC fan/250ºC/475ºF/Gas 9.

Grease the ramekins or dishes with the butter, then fill with your chosen fillings. Break an egg into each ramekin (or 2 eggs per dish) over the top of the fillings, then pour over a splash of cream and a sprinkle of seasoning.

Place the ramekins or dishes on a baking sheet and bake in the preheated oven for 10–14 minutes until cooked through but softly set. If it’s a thicker ramekin or you’ve chosen a larger dish with multiple eggs inside, the eggs may need a little longer in the oven (this is because cold fillings in the ramekins absorb some of that heat, so after 10 minutes, keep a close eye on them but remember that they’ll continue to cook slightly once out the oven). Serve with toast.

GOES WELL WITH Hunk of Cheese Scones (page 26), breadcrumbs (page 37) and the Mixed Bean Salad (page 91).

LEFTOVERS Scooped out of their ramekins and piled into pitta breads as egg and ‘something’ sandwiches. Add some mustard and mayo and they’ll be lovely!

EGGY BREAD WITH PEAS & CAPERS

As a child I used to love eating eggy bread with ketchup (a combination I still love!). This, however, is a more grown-up savoury version, but you still get a natural sweetness from the peas. I tend to use defrosted sliced bread (one of my freezer staples), but it works really well with any bread you have in the freezer. Or even better, fresh bread!

2 eggs

Essential, but any size can be used

30 ml/2 tablespoons whole milk

Any type of milk, dairy-free too

30 g/2 tablespoons unsalted butter

Any butter, or use a flavourless oil

4 slices of bread

Any bread. If frozen, de-frosted

20 g/2 tablespoons capers, drained

Roughly chopped olives or cornichons

100 g/¾ cup frozen peas

Fresh peas, or frozen edamame, sweetcorn/corn kernels or green beans

sea salt and freshly ground pepper

SERVES 2

TOTAL TIME 20 MINUTES

Preheat the oven to 100ºC fan/120ºC/250ºF/Gas ½. Place an ovenproof plate on the bottom shelf of the oven.

Whisk the eggs and milk in a shallow bowl with a generous pinch of seasoning. Heat half the butter in a non-stick frying pan/skillet over a medium heat.

Add a slice of bread to the egg bowl and slosh it around so it absorbs some of the egg mixture, then flip it over and slosh around once more.

Once the butter has melted and is gently sizzling in the pan, transfer the eggy bread to the pan and fry for about 3 minutes on each side, until both sides are golden brown and crispy-edged. While the first slice is cooking, place a second piece of bread in the egg bowl to soak.

When the first slice of bread is done, transfer it to the warming plate in the oven and cook the next slice in the same way. Repeat the process until all 4 slices have been cooked. Use the remaining butter as needed.

When the pan is empty, pop the capers and peas straight in, with a small splash of water and twist of pepper. Fry for about 3 minutes, until they’re tender and starting to catch a little. As they cook, gently mash them in the pan with the back of a fork. Taste to check for seasoning.

Halve the eggy bread, divide between serving plates, then pile the peas and capers on top and serve immediately.

GOES WELL WITH Brown Sauce (page 63).

LEFTOVERS Chop the bread up a bit and fry it all together in a large pan. Serve with fresh tomatoes and salad, like crunchy, eggy croutons and greens!