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Want to eat well, reduce food and packaging waste and save some money? Home Bird is here to help, going back to basics with seasonal, bold and wholesome recipes that are not only better for the environment but also your well-being and budget. Influenced by nostalgic meals and cooking for loved ones, Megan Davies has written this book for the eco-minded home cook. She includes invaluable tips on how to make ingredients stretch; from potato peel crisps to pickled cucumber and beetroot. Megan also features ways to turn leftovers into a new meal, such as a Roasted Fennel, Chive and Dill Pasta Bake or Frittata, both from a leftover Raw Fennel, Chive and Dill Salad. Recipes include multi-tasking brunch or late-night dishes such as Bircher Pancakes or Sweet Potato Baked Eggs. Suppers for Sharing that can be scaled up to feed a crowd or down for a more intimate occasion range from Roasted Squash with Almonds and Tarragon to the best Roast Chicken recipe with Pan Pastry Croutons (plus, of course, ways to use up any uneaten chicken!). From On the Side accompaniments and stunning Sweet Things such as Pot Luck Tarte Tatin this collection of delicious and ingenious recipes will have all the inspiration you need to run a more sustainable home kitchen, reduce your carbon footprint and make the sort of small changes at home that can make a big difference to our world.
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home bird
home bird
simple low-waste recipes for family & friends
Megan Davies
photography by Clare Winfield
dedication
To the bravest and strongest woman I know, Katy Gurney.
Senior designer Megan Smith
Senior editor Miriam Catley
Head of production Patricia Harrington
Art director Leslie Harrington
Editorial director Julia Charles
Publisher Cindy Richards
Food stylist Megan Davies
Props stylist Polly Webb-Wilson
Food styling assistants Jojo Jackson and Elle McCann
Illustrations Megan Davies
Published in 2020 by
Ryland Peters & Small
20–21 Jockey’s Fields, London
WC1R 4BW and
341 E 116th St, New York
NY 10029
www.rylandpeters.com
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Text © Megan Davies 2020
Design and photographs © Ryland Peters & Small 2020
The author’s moral rights have been asserted. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher.
UK eISBN: 978-1-78879-272-1 UK ISBN: 978-1-78879-233-2
US eISBN: 978-1-78879-288-2 US ISBN: 978-1-78879-199-1
Printed and bound in China
A CIP record for this book is available from the British Library.
notes
• Both British (Metric) and American (Imperial plus US cups) measurements are included here for your convenience, however it is important to work with one set of measurements and not alternate between them within a recipe.
• All spoon measurements are level unless otherwise specified.
• All eggs are medium (UK) or large (US), unless specified as large, in which case US extra-large should be used. Uncooked or partially cooked eggs should not be served to the very old, frail, young children, pregnant women or those with compromised immune systems.
• Ovens should be preheated to the specified temperatures. We recommend using an oven thermometer.
• Whenever butter is used, use unsalted unless otherwise stated.
contents
introduction
mini recipes
dusk or dawn
lunch to bed
suppers for sharing
on the side
sweet things
menu planner
index
thank yous
INTRODUCTION
This book began its life as a small supper club, held in my friends’ bakery, Pophams, in London. The idea was to move away from perfectly-portioned plates, multiple courses and fine-dining. I wanted to go ‘back to the kitchen table’ and to cook food that was both nostalgic and innovative; to make simple meals, offered in big bowls, and to encourage diners to sit at one large table and serve their neighbour before themselves. It was also important to me that there was a low-waste focus in the kitchen, where possible. We served Potato Peel Crisps (see page 121) with saucisson on small chopping boards so guests could help themselves as they arrived. Next, was a big feasting main course of Braised Short Rib (see page 94), Roasted Carrots & Legumes (see page 123), mash (having used the peel for the crisps mentioned earlier) and a big Red Cos & Seed Salad with Polenta Croutons (see pages 110–1). Roasted Mixed Squash with Almonds & Tarragon (see page 78) was served alongside. I made an Orange, Hazelnut & Caraway Pavlova (see page 138) for dessert and Spiced Mint Tea (see page 45) to finish things off.
My husband, Hal, helped every night, and my sister, Summer, was on washing up once or twice, too. It was a family affair; literally so in the kitchen and it certainly felt like it at the table. People seemed to enjoy it, and, for me, it just felt right to serve food that way, it was like being at home.
I come from a big, loud, hungry family where the tables have chairs from upstairs squeezed in, there are squished-up elbows resting on edges, clinking glasses, noses lifting to get a whiff of the imminent meal (all sounding like idyllic, nuclear bliss I know, but don’t be fooled) and then generous piles of grub served up, passed around and shared. My grandparents, parents, aunts and uncles are all genuinely brilliant home cooks. Whilst some are more effortlessly skilled than others, they all ‘properly’ enjoy food and cooking in all its forms, taking delight in even the simplest piece of toast, through to a show-stopping dish or feast. They are who I learnt from as a child, they gave me the confidence to cook intuitively, make fridge-foraged meals, be inventive with leftovers and not be scared to ‘swap in’ ingredients and just use what you’ve got. ‘It’ll be great!’ they say, and it usually is.
I’ve written this book based on my childhood experiences with food and my love of cooking, paired with a somewhat unsettled conscience regarding food waste and my carbon footprint.
We have a huge (and quite frankly terrifying) responsibility to radically change the way that we run this planet, but with all the will in the world, it’s hard to do so when you have a job, bills to pay, possibly a car, children, enjoy buying new clothes or flying. When we fully realize how much energy we use and waste we create it’s easy to wonder how we’ll be able to do anything at all to help. This book aims to take small steps in the right direction, to do little, achievable things first, whilst we tackle the dilemmas of making the bigger personal changes. Not wasting food, or at least wasting less food should be easy.
I’ve tried to adopt the way my grandparents and their parents managed their kitchens and food. They made satisfying, nourishing meals; they cherished meat, fats and fresh produce when it was on the menu and made use of every part of not only the animal but also all other ingredients.
Stretch your food, with the help of the ‘swap ins’ and ‘leftovers’ notes on each recipe. These tips will encourage you to use what you’ve got at home before you go out and buy more and to make inventive new meals with scraps and scrapings as opposed to just piling them on toast (although I do love most leftovers on toast, it has to be said).
Some of the creations are based on leftovers from another recipe, for example, Chilli & Chocolate Con Carne (see page 101) doubles up with Chilli & Lentil Parcels (see page 67), where part of the parcel filling is leftover chilli from the original recipe.
Use the ‘mini recipes’ section (see pages 9–13) for some simple tips on stretching things that might otherwise be thrown away. They’re by no means revolutionary or original ideas, just a little list of nifty examples that might help.
The chapters have been broken up into fluid sections that work for varying lifestyles and eating habits (if you want fish and chips or pasta for breakfast, though, be my guest; just make sure you save any leftovers for lunch!). I’ve also set out some menu plans (see pages 154–7) with combinations of dishes that I cook at home, often at the weekends or for dinner parties, should you like some inspiration – that, or make your own, there are tons of options! Enjoy the recipes, cook and share them with loved ones, and last, but not least, get excited about what remains on the plate in the fridge for tomorrow!
My cooking notes
• Invest in a good non-stick baking sheet and frying pan/skillet – you’ll use less baking paper or foil in the long run, and that’s a good thing.
• Use an upside-down plate instead of clingfilm/plastic wrap in the fridge. Alternatively, invest in some long-life covers and containers.
• Cook and eat seasonal (and local) ingredients when possible and where affordable. They’ll taste better, be cheaper (most of the time) and will have hopefully not travelled so far.
• Make sure you check for any prep instructions alongside the ingredients before cooking.
• When soft herbs are chopped, do so with leaves and stalks, unless stalks are particularly hardy.
• Use extra virgin olive oil for salad dressings and finishing touches, not cooking. Use olive oil for cooking, frying (not high temperature), marinading and coating for oven cooking, and then vegetable (preferably rapeseed) oil for high-heat frying, and roasting/oven cooking too.
• Most vegetable oils in the UK are rapeseed oil so no need to buy the more expensive, rapeseed oil, just check the back of the veg oil bottles.
• Store eggs, tomatoes and fruit at room temperature (unless it’s very hot).
• Taste, season, now taste and season again.
MINI RECIPES
These little recipe ideas are designed to help you to make use of the likes of lurking lemon halves, leftover condiments and souring milk. These are brief guides, so get experimenting to see what you can stretch and make use of.
squeezed citrus
When you’ve just squeezed citrus halves for the juice in a recipe and see no use for them, don’t throw them away! There is still lots of flavour in the fruit. To make use of the squeezed fruit, cut it up into slices, wedges, chunks (whatever), and add to a jug/pitcher. Fill with water, add any fresh herbs you might have floating around and store in the fridge for up to 2 days, topping up with water as you get through it. The fruit (and herbs) will start to turn after 48 hours (give or take), so just compost them at the point they taste a little past it. Or, chop them up into chunks and freeze in a reusable bag, then add to that bag as and when you end up with more squeezed citrus fruits. The frozen fruit can later be added to glasses, re-usable bottles for on-the-go, mugs of hot water, herbal teas, cordials or spirit/mixer drinks.
dried citrus
We have Mark Curtis to thank for this great tip, having served me one of the loveliest gin and tonics I’ve had in a while. Cut wrinkling oranges, limes, lemons and grapefruit into thin slices (a serrated fruit knife is best, I find) and place them on a baking sheet in a single layer. Bake for several hours (overnight or all day is preferable) at about 60˚C/140˚F until they are fully dried out, and slightly darkened. Store in an airtight container and pop a couple into any spirit and mixer with ice. They infuse the drink with a richer, more earthy flavour than fresh citrus, that develops as you get down the glass, glorious. I’ve been making these for years, but for my Christmas tree. Seems a bit lame in comparison…
pastry scraps & chutney bites
It’s really tempting to throw away pastry when you only have a small quantity of it left, but it freezes well so don’t throw it out. Alternatively, tear it up into pieces, pile a teaspoon of chutney in the centre, top with some grated or crumbled cheese (any kind) and bake for 20–30 minutes until golden and bubbling. This works with puff or shortcrust, and don’t be afraid to try out different combinations. Caramelized onions are great too, as is pesto. You can also do so with sweet toppings, such as jams/jellies and fresh fruits, with an extra sprinkling of sugar on top before baking. Serve them as snacks, canapès, desserts or just a treat for being so industrious!
kind of pickled greens
Use up aging cucumbers, courgettes/zucchini or other greens by cutting away any really soggy sections, and then slicing thinly. Cover with white wine or rice wine vinegar, a pinch of dried chilli/hot red pepper flakes and a little seasoning. Serve on toast or alongside dishes such as Sweet Potato Baked Eggs (see page 29), Chilli & Chocolate Con Carne (see page 101), Asian Chicken Salad (see page 92), Saucy Coconut Noodles with Prawns (see page 63) or the Roasted Onion, Mixed Tomato & Chickpea Curry (see page 77).
pickling veg
Whenever you prep veg and are about to throw the ends away, don’t! Give them a rinse and then pop them in a sterilized jar (with a lid, also sterilized and ready to seal) and some pickling liquor. Do so with the odds and ends of carrots, radishes, beetroots, fennel, garlic and onions.
100 g/½ cup caster/granulated sugar
250 ml/1 cup plus 1 tablespoon vinegar (any kind)
whole spices, such as cloves, star anise, coriander seeds, fennel seeds or peppercorns (optional)
Put the sugar, vinegar and 100 ml/⅓ cup plus 1 tablespoon water, together with a few spices if you have them, into a small saucepan and bring to the boil over a medium heat, so the sugar dissolves before the liquid boils. Let the liquid simmer for a minute, then remove from the heat and let cool. Pour over the veg in a sterilized glass jar, seal and store in a cool, dry place. If unopened, it should last for up to 2 months. Once opened, I’d say 2–3 weeks.
leftover cornichon jars
I always have cornichons at home, and am therefore constantly left with jars of the vinegar they live in. Use up this flavoursome liquor either in salad dressings, or by re-filling the jar with some fresh chilli/chile, garlic and shallot slices and send them back to the fridge, so they do a mini pickle until you need them for cooking, adding to sandwiches, Ploughman’s boards and the like. They won’t last as long as properly pickled veg, but they’re not bad!
bits & bones for stock
If you have a chicken carcass, meat or fish bones that post-meal you don’t want to throw away, but don’t have the time to deal with, simply freeze to make stock another time. Place the bones in a freezer bag for up to 1 month and then defrost when you have a few hours at home. You’ll need the following to throw in a large saucepan with the bones and water: onion, celery, carrot, garlic cloves, black peppercorns, bay leaves, thyme and parsley. Bring the water to the boil and let simmer for a few hours (skimming and discarding any scum that floats on the surface).
used tea bags & coffee
Make iced tea or coffee! This is obviously more likely an appealing option in the warmer months, but give it a go and see what you think.
Add a couple of used black tea bags to a jug/pitcher of water with some lemon (use the pieces in your freezer, if you have any) and a dash of honey, if you want some sweetness. Stir to combine and store in the fridge. It’s a great refreshing drink, and you can also treat it like Pimm’s – if you’re serving it at the table for a lunch, for example, top it up with fresh mint, strawberries, apple and more lemon.
Alternatively, add a few tea leaves to homemade jam/jelly. I sometimes add them to my Balsamic Strawberries that go with the Rice Pudding (see page 135) and it’s quite lovely. Earl Grey works particularly well.
Iced coffee is a great refreshment, and even better made at home without the ridiculous price tag from a coffee shop. Save the leftover coffee from a cafetiere in the fridge and when you’re ready, pour about the amount you would of vodka or gin in a drink (a finger or two) into a glass over plenty of ice and top up with milk of your choice. That, or water if you don’t want a latte-style drink.
crisps or cornflakes
Crisps and cornflakes are an excellent way to add texture to toppings. For savoury dishes, scrunch up crisps and fold them through breadcrumbs or grated cheese to spread on top of pasta bakes, moussakas or lasagnes, corrupted versions, I know, but tasty. For sweet toppings, use cornflakes in the same way as the crisps, on crumbles and cobblers, in flapjacks and so on.
‘bird food’ crackers
You can make crackers using mixed seeds (or even one or two types if you have a glut of them), oats and a little liquid.
50 g/½ cup oats
100 g/3½ oz. mixed seeds
2 tablespoons runny honey or maple syrup
1 tablespoon oil
pinch each of salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 170˚C fan/190˚C/375˚F/Gas 5. Mix the oats with 50 ml/3½ tablespoons water in a bowl until the oats soak up the water, then add the seeds, honey or maple syrup and oil with a pinch of seasoning. Mix well to combine and spread onto a lined baking sheet. Press down using the back of a spoon to compress and bake in the preheated oven for 40 minutes–1 hour. Allow to cool completely, then break up and enjoy! Try these out adding ½ teaspoon of different nut oils, different ground spices for flavouring and so on. They can be sweet or savoury so play around. I also love them broken up and sprinkled on things, like a crunchy garnish. Try with Indian Scrambled Eggs (see page 36), Baked Rosemary & Nutmeg Nectarines (see page 132) or Rice Pudding (see page 135).
stale pastries & bread
Use old pastries like you would stale bread – rip them up into croutons and bake. That’s not anything new, but use them in roasting recipes, such as The Best Roast Chicken (see page 88), where the croissant croutons soak up the chicken juices underneath, and go brown and crisp on top.
souring milk
Souring milk is one of the most annoying things to find in the fridge. Whilst it’s not great in a cup of tea, you can still use it in baking. As long as there isn’t any mould, it will be okay to cook with. One of the simplest ways souring milk can be used in a recipe is in place of buttermilk. Try using it in the Soda Bread Boulders (see page 32) or the dumplings in the Veggie Stew (see page 82) and see how you go.
You can also use it to marinade meat, I like it with chicken best – again, as you would use buttermilk or yogurt with a load of spices to marinade chicken, do it with soured milk!
dusk or dawn
For mornings, brunches or refreshments, a second breakfast or those evenings when you just feel like something lighter.
roasted buckwheat & yogurt
I had to make a dessert for a load of guests a few years back, with nothing much at home. I had half a pack of buckwheat, which I threw in a pan with some oil and added spices and sugar. Once it was toasted, it made a crunchy, crumbly brittle that I served with baked stone fruits and yogurt. It was a success but digests better when par-boiled, hence this development. You can prep the roasted buckwheat ahead and store it as you would granola. Buckwheat is also gluten-free so this is a great, crunchy and wholesome breakfast or dessert topping for coeliacs and gluten-free eaters too.
100 g/½ cup buckwheat
1½ teaspoons olive oil
2 teaspoons runny honey, plus extra to serve
a pinch of sea salt
strained Greek yogurt, to serve
fresh fruit, to serve
serves4
time20 minutes
Preheat the oven to 180˚C fan/200˚C/400˚F/Gas 6.
Bring a saucepan of water to the boil. Add the buckwheat and cook on a rapid boil for 5 minutes. Drain and rinse under cold water and then spread out onto a non-stick baking sheet.
Transfer to the top shelf of the preheated oven and bake for 5 minutes. Remove from the oven, add the oil and honey to the buckwheat with a pinch of sea salt and gently mix. They ping around a bit so watch out.