Professional Make-Up E-Book

Rosie Watson

• Herausgeber: IMM Lifestyle Books
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2016

Seitenzahl: 180

Beschreibung

Aimed at those who are thinking of doing a course on the subject or starting up their own business, this book offers expert advice on all aspects of being a make-up artist. There is an introduction to the equipment needed that kicks off the book followed by a section on the perfect base, which includes information on skin cleansing, toning, and moisturising for different skin types. Eyebrow shaping, brow bleaching and tinting, lash tinting and perming, along with facial waxing, tips on sun care and self-tan make-up all offer invaluable advice on how to achieve a professional, groomed look. Contra-indications to make-up, hyper-pigmentation problems, skin disorders and common skin complaints are also dealt with. Dealing with nervous clients isn't always easy. There is a chapter called The Venue that offers expert advice on how to make your client feel relaxed and what facilities the venue should offer. Eyes, lips and cheeks are all covered in detail and a chapter on male make-up rounds off the book. Whether you're looking to improve your own style or wishing to make a profession out of offering make-up advice, this book provides all the advice, skills and answers.

Leseprobe

contents

The philosophy

The tools

The challenges

The perfect base

The natural canvas

Foundations

Eyes

Cheeks

Lips

Male make-up

Teens

Lighting and the professional choice

The look

Suppliers

Acknowledgements

Index

the philosophy

Look in the mirror… there is only one person in the world who looks like you and that is you. Never has a woman looked more beautiful when she is healthy and happy in her own skin. Confidence and self-assurance are wonderful assets, and even if they are not ones you always recognise in yourself or others they can be developed with the aid of make-up. There are no hard and fast rules to make-up application, so experiment with colours and looks until you find a style that suits your or your clients’ needs.

A woman should never hide behind a cloak of make-up but rather allow it to enhance her natural beauty and reflect her inner warmth. I have picked up many a golden tip from being surrounded by professional, artistic and creative people throughout my career and this book will hopefully go some way to stimulate you to look at make-up in a more inspiring light.

I always thought make-up was a fashion and that following the pack would make me attractive and trendy. But was I wrong when I tried orange! The art within the art is feeling good about what you wear on your face. So though following the latest trends is not always advisable, make-up should reflect not only someone’s personality and mood, but also their lifestyle and wardrobe.

I have chosen to work with ‘real’ people in this book to illustrate how real beauty can shine through. I have also considered more extravagant ideas but in my eyes they are simple, fantastic ways to manipulate products and tools to give me more make-up options. ‘Alright,’ I hear you cry, ‘there is only one way to apply mascara!’ but I will show you there are many ways of wearing it!

In the 1950s people were desperate to get their hands on make-up, as basics such as red lipstick and black eyeliner were pretty much all that was available. In the ’60s and ’70s experimentation took a back seat, as for the main part single colours were used to exaggerate the eyes with little colour used elsewhere, although make-up trends changed at the end of this era to incorporate nothing but colour. In the ’80s and ’90s it was just too much of everything, and now in the new millennium you can be as natural or as glamorous as you wish. Never before has there been so much choice and so many varieties of colour, texture, shade and sparkle! As we end this decade, make-up will continue to change and we will see products being invented which will surprise even the most experienced make-up artist. But I look forward to change and hope you do, too.

“Never has a woman looked more beautifulwhen she is healthy and happy in her own skin”

01 the tools

the tools

Precision is what you need for flawless make-up and this can only be achieved with the right tools. Fingertips are a vital part of the tool kit and are your best blenders but getting into small corners with eyeshadow and eyeliner is the job of a suitable brush. The best brushes are soft to the touch and are shaped according to the area of the face being treated. They should be easy to clean and should not release bristles freely.

Both synthetic and natural brushes are readily available and often synthetics are easier to clean, however, the blending power of natural hair in a tightly bound brush is remarkable. The best brushes feel sturdy but are light enough to achieve a feather-like touch to your application. A good set of brushes can easily last years and can prove to be your best investment so choose wisely and always ask to try out the brushes before you buy.

TYPES OF BRUSHES

①brow brush

②blending sponge

③foundation base brush

④eyeshadow dome

⑤contour facial brush;

⑥mini shadow brush

⑦eyeshadow stubby

⑧angled eyeliner brush

⑨angular brow/lash separator

⑩lip dome

eyeshadow blenders

blusher brush

powder brush

“When it comes to brushes, second best is never good enough but the best is never the most expensive! ”

Back to basics

Each brush has its own purpose so buy them individually in accordance with the make-up you use on a daily basis. There is no point in wasting money on something you will never use. There are a few essential basics other than brushes, however, which you should include in your kit.

Lash curlers The old style is often the best and this is definitely the case with lash curlers! Curled lashes look fantastic with or without make-up as they really open the eyes and give them depth.

Sharpener A good sharpener will have two holes: one for chubby pencils and the other for liners. Finding a good sharpener could save you pounds in shavings! Plastic sharpeners are often better as they are durable and light and are less prone to rust.

Tweezers Invest in a good pair of tweezers and carry them with you to pluck out any rogue hairs before venturing out in public! Tweezer tips come in many variations but often slanted or round tips are best as they are easier to handle and great at grabbing hairs. Pointed or flat-tipped versions can prove painful if not used properly as it is often easier to scratch or pinch the skin with these.

Wedges You may not use these regularly but when the time comes you’ll be glad you invested in them! They are great for blotting, blending and touching up throughout the day. Make sure you change these regularly to avoid spreading any infections and always use your own.

Cotton buds Cotton buds are the best tools for removing splodges or mistakes in hard-to-get-to areas and for blending eye pencils if you are missing a brush. Don’t be tempted to use the same cotton bud time and again – it should only be used a couple of times before discarding it.

The tool box

Give an artist one brush and they will paint you a picture but give them a selection and they can create something truly individual with differing textures, strokes and effects. Professional brushes are expected when treating clients but for your home kit you only need invest in a small, but good selection.

Powder brushes Large, domed ultra-soft brushes used to dust off excess powder and to apply bronzer all over the face. These natural brushes are great blenders of powder, bronzer and even blush.

Powder brushes

Blusher brush A smaller domed but still ultra-soft brush which should fit easily on the apple of your cheek without over spreading to prevent too much colour being dropped onto the cheek.

Blusher brush

Foundation base brush A medium but flat dome shaped synthetic brush used to apply cream foundation or concealer. This firm brush allows for precision and the ultimate finish.

Foundation base brush

Eyeshadow dome It is good to have two of these brushes – one for light shadows and one for darker shades. Synthetic brushes are good for precision lines and adding depth to shadows whereas sable brushes, because they are softer, are great for blending and finishing.

Eyeshadow dome

Eyeshadow blenders These are very soft, loose-bristle brushes, great for blending blocks or lines of colour as well as smudging light and dark shadows together.

Eyeshadow blenders

Eyeshadow stubby This square, firm brush is great for dotting on eyeshadow or block liquid liner before blending as it offers high precision.

Eyeshadow stubby

Contour facial brush This slanted dome brush is great for precision highlighting and shading of the face, especially the cheekbones. A brush like this can be used for practically any purpose so adapt it to fit your every day needs.

Contour facial brush

Mini shadow brush This very small dome is great for working along the lashes or close to the eye with shadow as it is firm and enables high precision. It is also a high quality blender, especially effective on lines of dark shadow or liners.

Mini shadow brush

Lip dome This is the main lip brush as it is firm to the touch and lip sized. It is designed to give precision without flooding the lips with colour and enables you to create the perfect lip line.

Lip dome

Brow brush This slanted brush is perfectly designed for contouring eyebrows, as well as applying and blending pencils and eyeshadows. Use the full length of the brush and sweep on the powder. Don’t dot or rub the powder on as this will damage the delicate bristles of the brush.

Brow brush

Angled eyeliner brush This odd looking bent fine line brush is ideally shaped for detailed liquid liner work around the eyes.

Angled eyeliner brush

Angular brow/lash separator Purposely angled to reach the corners of the lashes and brows to separate and comb the hairs to perfection. Also great for applying clear mascara to these areas. Make sure you clean the brush regularly to prevent the bristles getting clogged up with mascara.

Angular brow/lash separator

Blending sponge The king of the make-up kit! The blending sponge is superb at blending eyeliner and detailed shadow work around the eyes, as well as just about anything that needs smudging!

Blending sponge

Storing brushes

Professional make-up artists insist on using the correct brush for specific areas of the face as it makes their job easier. The packs of sponge applicators from the chemist are fine but to really gain precision and increase your artistry buy professional brushes and see the difference. We quite often spend an incredible amount of money on make-up products but aren’t bothered about applying them properly!

Take care of your brushes and store them in a pouch, roll or box designed to keep them safe and away from dust and possible damage.

To prevent brush damage and cross contamination ensure you clean your brushes well after every use. Brushes house microbes and bacteria which can cause infections and skin rashes if not kept meticulously clean.

trade tips

FOR BRUSHES

• Always try out the brushes you want to buy first by brushing them against the back of your hand and making sure the bristles do not fall out.

• Make sure you buy a proprietary brush cleaner as although soap and warm water are an option they can leave a scum residue on the brush fibres, which can cause clogging and concentration of colour. Brush cleaner contains mild alcohols that dissolve grease and any build up of cosmetics on the brush fibres.

• Brushes should be firm but flexible and have an even spread of bristles when pressure is applied.

02 the challenges

the challenges

Every make-up assignment has its own challenges and the process of overcoming them is extremely rewarding. Not every skin has a smooth, creamy appearance and not everyone has model features but with proper application, make-up can transform features, softening the ones you don’t like so much and emphasising the ones you do. There is nothing more satisfying than making the best of someone’s natural features and often people can become incredibly emotional when they see their transformation after make-up.

“Make up can be a reflection of inner expression or an emotional fortification”

Skin reading

Not all skins tolerate make-up because they are ‘contraindicated’ to treatment. This means that applying make-up could be harmful, either because the skin is damaged or because it is susceptible to an allergic reaction. Read your skin’s external messages and decide if you need to make changes to your make-up to make its application safe and comfortable.

Sensitive skins

Sensitivity can frequently occur when using skin preparations and make-up. Itching, swelling, excess heat, stinging and irritation are common reactions to products that contain perfume, alcohol and preservatives. Protect sensitive skin with an underbase (primer) product which is applied over moisturiser and acts as a barrier to protect your skin from harsh ingredients.

Watch out for changes

Your skin changes regularly to help protect against the environment, pollutants and extremes in temperature, as well as mirroring your internal health and wellbeing. Change your routine when necessary to treat the skin you have. Often the moisturiser or foundation you use in the summer is of too light a consistency and too dark a colour for winter usage. Coverage and colours change during the year as your skin changes colour so be flexible and adapt your skincare and make-up routine. If any unusual skin changes occur during the year you should consult your doctor or a dermatologist. The sun can encourage lesions, along with growth and pigmentation irregularities so for peace of mind have a regular skin check-up.

Hyper pigmentation

Skin pigmentation disorders occur because the body produces either too much or too little melanin, a pigment that creates hair and skin colour. On light skins, hyper pigmentation manifests itself as small patches of darker skin and on darker skins lighter patches can occur. Make-up can be applied over these areas and a heavier concealer in your natural skin shade can balance colour changes on your face.

Many skin conditions can also be treated with make-up but as a make-up artist you will need to know how to identify them so you can make an educated decision on whether it is safe and comfortable for the client to continue. You may think it is alright to cover a cold sore but when you get three in its place you might be unpleasantly surprised! If in doubt, don’t risk it. Get any skin changes checked by a doctor or dermatologist.

COMMON SKIN LESIONS THAT CAN BE COVERED WITH MAKE-UP

Macule A flat area of abnormal colour that can be pinkish or brown.

Papule A small red superficial lump on the skin which is slightly hard to the touch.

Pustule Commonly known as a ‘whitehead’ and often starting as a papule, it develops pus and is usually found in a hair follicle.

Vesicle A blister containing clear fluid. A ‘bulla’ is the name given to a large blister.

Crust A scab of dried skin secretions like blood, lymphatic secretions or pus.

Problematic pigmentation

Cloasma, vitiligo, lentigo and port wine stains are all common pigmentation irregularities. They appear as discolouration to the face, usually brown or pink in appearance, and can be covered with make-up using camouflage techniques to even the skin’s texture and colour.

Battling bacteria

Boils, sties, conjunctivitis and impetigo are all forms of bacterial infection which can affect make-up application. Most are contagious and infectious so a doctor’s advice is needed before applying make-up to prevent cross-infection to yourself and others.

Viral infections

Cold sores, shingles, warts and verrucas are all viral infections which are extremely difficult to get rid of as the virus stays in the body for years, often a lifetime, resurfacing during times of stress or low immunity. Make-up should be avoided where possible to prevent cross infection of the surrounding skin.

Fungal infections

Tinea (ringworm) appears as red scaly patches of dry skin and can affect the face, head, feet, hands and nails. Always consult a doctor before applying make-up over these areas as tinea is highly contagious and can cross-infect other areas of the body very easily.

Skin disorders

Long-term skin complaints such as eczema, which originates from the blood stream, dermatitis, from external sources such as jewellery, and psoriasis can be traumatic to live with and the symptoms vary from dry flaky skin to open wounds, bleeding and itching. In some cases the cause of these conditions is unknown, however, most sufferers say that stress, anxiety and a lack of well-being contributes to a bout. Make-up can be applied but if the skin is sore it is better to let it heal naturally.

Camouflage make-up, such as thick foundations and concealers which block out colour and irregularities on the skin, give the appearance of an even tone. Pick products that are exactly the same as your skin tone and base and use both to eradicate uneven pigmentation. This make-up works wonders on darker birthmarks like port wine stains or strawberry marks. If you want to diminish redness follow the usual concealing rules but use this unique thick consistency make-up instead.

Cross infection

Every day we lose millions of skin cells and hair strands, and we perspire many hundreds of millilitres of sweat – we just can’t see it up close. I never consider using other make-up artists’ brushes and they would not ask to borrow mine. It is responsible and professional to never leave yourself liable for cross infection of bacteria or viruses.

Brush cleaning products go some way to cleansing the used make-up and bacteria from your brushes but be aware that it takes tremendous heat and strong chemicals to kill most bacteria and viruses so never assume your brushes are completely clean because they are not!

Disposable products like sponges and tissues go some way to protect us from ourselves. But by following a strict health and safety regime by using disposable products, sanitising the hands before and after application and cleaning equipment after use, you will diminish the chances of cross contamination.

MEDIC CHECK!

Remember, all skin changes should be checked by a doctor or dermatologist, especially those that appear black or blue in colour and are raised. Lesions that weep clear fluid or blood will require immediate medical attention so being able to identify these could go some way to preventing a spread of the problem. Do not cover these with make-up.

“Using a friend’s mascara is like saying ‘Can I borrow your dead skin, parasites and eye secretions to put on mine!’ Yuk!”

Bad make-up day!

Having make-up traumas can happen any time, any place and almost always when you are in a rush or need to look your best! I have completed a make-up treatment using just cotton tips and cotton wool when I have forgotten my brushes! It is achievable, you just need to be brave and face the problem head on. The biggest mistake you can make is to lose your temper and remove all your make-up! It’s like smudging a nail; you wait until the surface is manipulable and squash the varnish back into place.

Everyday problems

There are measures to combat any problem and hopefully these tips will help:

Perspiration When you are in a rush or a panic the last thing you need is for make-up to be difficult to apply because you are too hot and flustered, so find a window or a fan and try to externally cool yourself. Water evaporates quickly so any extra air flow will help remove excess water from your face.

Blot away excess perspiration – never wipe it off or you will remove the make-up. Spritzing your face provides a much needed cooling effect and removes the salt which is found in sweat to give your skin a fresh look and feel.

Blemishes can be the bane of your life and make-up rarely sticks to a shiny blemish. Use a wax-based skin-coloured concealer to cover the redness but apply it with a cotton tip as the warmth from your fingers will spread the product too much. Apply powder to seal the concealer and this should give you a paler, less noticeable surface. If all else fails cover with normal foundation and tell everyone you are still young enough to get spots!

Never pick a spot before applying make-up as it will weep and the bacteria within could spread. Filling the hole from a picked spot is not the best option as it will inevitably give you another blemish!

Uneven make-up can look awful because your skin is not evenly textured or has a diverse moisture content. Following a good skincare routine and moisturising just prior to makeup will do the trick. A flawless surface can be achieved if you use an underbase primer product to mattify the skin prior to make-up application.

Anti mature

Because of pressures to look younger for longer many of us are turning to anti-ageing treatments in an attempt to prolong a youthful appearance. The market for these types of product is huge – and confusing at times – what with medical cosmetic treatments available as well as those from beauty salons and the shop shelf. So, what should you choose?

There are a number of natural products that can be used both externally and internally to boost the skin’s regeneration capabilities, but first let’s look at how skin is affected by the daily pressures of modern life.

FREE RADICALS

Free radicals are disturbed oxygen molecules that are damaging to the skin and to the inner workings of the body. They are caused mainly by UV radiation from the sun, stress, obesity, smoking, pollution and chemical additives.

A healthy body is able to cope with regular attacks from free radicals but if there is over-exposure to one or more of the factors listed above, the body starts to degenerate. One of the early visible symptoms is a change in the skin’s appearance. The skin will start to sag and wrinkle at a much earlier stage. So how much are we actively accelerating the process with the way we live our lives?