Professional Manicure and Pedicure E-Book

Rosie Watson

• Herausgeber: IMM Lifestyle Books
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2016

Seitenzahl: 169

Beschreibung

Aimed at those who are thinking of doing a course on the subject or starting up their own business, this book offers expert advice on all aspects of being a nail technician. An introduction to the structure of the nail and identifying different types of nail offers solid, practical information to get you started. Next is a chapter on the equipment needed followed by step-by-step demonstrations on how to carry out the perfect manicure or pedicure on both men and women. Massage routines, exfoliation, buffing, general nail care, grooming and varnish application are all covered. This is followed by a section on artificial nails, looking at the three systems used in nail bars: acrylic, gel and fiberglass and silk. The Art chapter introduces the wonderful world of nail art, providing inspirational ideas on how to adorn painted nails with gems, rhinestones, foil leaf, stick-ons and transfers. Embossed designs, marbling, freehand drawing and nail jewelery are also covered. This book offers invaluable advice on how to achieve a professional look, whether you're seeking to improve your own style or wishing to become a professional nail technician.

Leseprobe

contents

the philosophy

the structure

nail identification

the challenges

the tools

anti-mature

the manicure

artificial nails

the pedicure

the art

the looks

the spa

index

acknowledgements

the philosophy

When I visited New York a few months ago, I realised what a growing industry the manicure and pedicure business was. New York was one of the first places to do nails on a large scale and the trend seems to have spread across the world like wildfire! I have noticed nail treatments growing in popularity in the salons in Britain and both my female and male clientele have expanded vastly in the last few years.

What I have seen in the nail bars in other nail progressive countries is a quick, clean and professional service for the price of a glass of wine! I realised that both women and men are now regularly having treatments, not just as an occasional treat but almost as a necessity, just like their regular dose of cappuccino!

Hands make the first touch when greeting someone new, in the form of a handshake. Hands show the world you have pledged your married life to someone with a wedding ring. Hands are kissed by others in some countries as a welcome and hands show some of the worst signs of stress in nail biters! So there is a clear emotional connection between us and our hands and nails. It is always good to look after hands and to appear well groomed at all times. The simplest manicure will revolutionise hands and nails and make us feel instantly better.

Feet, on the other hand, are rarely exposed but when they are they need to be shown to their full potential! Well groomed feet make all the difference and paying them a little attention provides fantastic results. Impressions are everything so why not let your body scream confidence all the way down to your toes?

It seems in modern day living you are now behind the times if your weekly schedule does not include a 45-minute appointment with a nail technician. It is rare for some to see the week through without either a manicure or a pedicure, even if it just a quick self-varnish.

If you haven’t had a nail treatment before go to a nail bar and try it out! It is the right of all of us to treat ourselves once in a while and why not the hands and feet, which are often neglected and overlooked. We use them every day and having a warm wax or hot oil treatment, or wrapping them in warm mitts can really make a difference.

Currently fashions remain fairly similar to seasons past and the French style of varnish is still a favourite for making the nails look clean, fresh and well maintained. However, shorter dark nails are also coming into the limelight now and the vamp look is also very popular.

Colour should not be worn for fashion necessarily but to inspire the wearer and perhaps to match a particular outfit or accessory – this is when nail colour is at its most visually powerful! ‘Sqoval’ nails (nails with a tip in between square and oval) have been the height of fashion for many years but may not be to everyone’s taste, so wear the nails you love regardless of fashions. You know what you like and it will be hard to feel comfortable wearing anything else.

01 the structure

the structure

Having a manicure or pedicure these days is as popular as going for a coffee! In some cities it is unheard of to miss a nail appointment as the practice is now not merely a pampering treatment but a grooming necessity.

Our hands are used a great deal in communicating with others. We touch others with our hands and it is easy to make judgments on a person from the state of their hands and nails: bitten and they are stressed, pressurised and busy; too long and they have too much time to spare. Yellow nails scream out ill health, while dry hands suggest they do manual labour jobs and will be rough to touch. Why let people make assumptions before they have even spoken to you?

The hands and feet are known as body extremities and both these are prone to bad circulation and neglect. Feet can sometimes seem just that little too far away to reach and nail varnish takes longer to dry than we think we can afford! Physiologically feet need to be looked after well, especially as they support our whole body weight for many hours of the day, but hands, too, are in constant use and should be well looked after and regularly groomed. Investing a little time every week on our hands and feet makes all the difference.

The skin

Skin is made up of three main layers. The epidermis comprises the top set of five layers and is about as thick as a piece of paper; the dermis is the second main layer and is more complex in structure. The third is called the subcutaneous layer and is made up of fat cells.

The epidermis’s main function is that of protection, as the top surface layers consist of dead skin cells and have no other direct function. Skin cells are constantly shed throughout the day and we lose hundreds of thousands every time we wash our hands, scratch or change clothes! The epidermis protects the underlying tissues from damage and also traps bacteria by secreting a sticky oil called sebum from glands deep in the hair follicle. Sebum is made up of cholesterol and acids and provides a natural moisturiser that gives suppleness to the skin. The acids are used to neutralise many types of bacteria and prevent internal infections. It is in the epidermis that we see physical ageing and the top visible layers of the skin can clearly mirror our inner imbalance or wellbeing.

n A cross-section of skin.

The epidermis’s slightly acidic pH is about 5.5–6 and this protective, mildly acid mantel also helps to ward off harmful infections and bacteria. The epidermis on the palms of the hands and soles of the feet are the thickest in the body and are therefore one of the most protected areas.

Under the epidermis lies the dermis, a layer of skin made up of blood vessels and fibres such as collagen and elastin. It is subdivided into two layers and here is where skin cells are reproduced and grow. The tissue is fresh, new and plump. Collagen in this layer gives the skin a youthful appearance. Skin also needs to move and stretch and this is made possible by elastin found in the dermis. It is a stretchy fibre which allows great movement of the skin. With age, both collagen and elastin diminish in function and so visible ageing of the skin occurs.

Nutrients, oxygen and water, which are vital for skin maintenance, are distributed in the dermis by the blood stream, and nerve endings are also stored here so we can feel textures, heat, cold and pressure easily.

Under the dermis we find the last of the three main layers of the skin: the subcutaneous layer. It is basically made of fat cells which give the body warmth and protection against external damage. Some subcutaneous layers are deeper than others but this necessary layer also protects muscles and bones from damage as well as acting as the body’s internal thermometer.

Together the epidermis and dermis weigh about 3 kg (7 lb), making skin the largest organ in the body. The skin combines together to form a very clever group of cells, as together they are responsible for protection, perspiration, sensation, heat regulation and excretion of unwanted bacterial invaders.

The back of the hands and feet have hair projections that trap air and keep us warm as well as being attached to senses which alert us to particles on the skin, as well as the heat or cold. This vellus hair can be very fine or very thick depending on nationality or hereditary genetics. The back of the hand is very susceptible to ageing, loose elastin and the breakdown of collagen, which, as time goes by, exaggerate the lines and wrinkles on our hands. The sun, too, damages skin texture, making it uneven and creating age or liver spots which once developed are very difficult to eradicate.

The nails

n The basic anatomy of the nail.

All visible nail tissue is made of ‘keratinised’ particles (dead cells). Nails provide much protection from damage to the soft fingers and toe tips which we use constantly. Nails are translucent but colour can be seen as a faint pink from the blood supply beneath the nails, or they can also turn blue with cold or ill health.

It takes about six months to grow a nail from its root (the matrix) to the free edge at the end of the fingertip and this regular growth means we have to cut, file and buff our nails regularly. The longest nails in history are about 76 cm (30 in) long but most of us like to maintain a comfortable workable length of a few millimetres!

n A cross-section of a finger.

trade secrets

• Massaging the matrix of the nail increases blood supply and helps to speed up the production of new nail cells to increase growth speed.

• Warm hand treatments should be concentrated around the matrix as increased heat will improve circulation to the nails and make them look pinker and healthier.

n Nails are always slightly curved to give them exceptional strength and durability.

The technical name for a nail is an ‘onyx’ and it is usually flat and slightly pink in colour with an opaque edge at the fingertip. As it is made of keratinised cells we can manipulate the texture and shape of the nails without any pain or discomfort. Hot water and chemicals will soften the nail’s structure and allow flexibility whereas cold water will encourage the nail to retain the same structure and limited flexibility.

The matrix of the nail is more commonly known as the root and this is the only area where the nail is alive and reproduces new nail cells. A healthy blood supply to the matrix brings life-giving oxygen and nutrition to new nail cells. Subsequently, a healthy matrix will lead to a healthy nail. However, if the matrix is damaged, the nail may grow abnormally or not at all.

The half moon (lunula) of the nail is visible at the top of the matrix and the base of the nail plate. This narrow crescent is slightly white in colour because the new nail cells are compacting down to become stronger and this process cuts out the visibility of the underlying blood supply which gives nails their pink appearance. The lunula was said to show how long you would live and how healthy you are but the size of your lunula is not relevant to age nor health! Some people have no visible lunula yet stay alive! In the early days of the French manicure, nail technicians used to paint the lunula as well as the free edge of the nails white but this fashion died as the complexity of this work was too great for everyday wear.

The nail bed is the area of flesh that lies under the nail plate and contains the blood vessels that give nails their healthy pink colour. The nail bed contains small ridges to provide extra adherence to the nail plate and is the area we see if we lose the nail plate in an accident.

The nail plate makes up the whole surface of the nail we see and feel. It is hard and made of compacted dead cells. It is usually slightly shiny and is stuck fast to the nail bed on which it lies. The nail plate can grow very long past the finger’s edge and when the plate is no longer stuck to the nail bed the plate becomes the ‘free edge’. This free edge is the area we class as the nail’s length and is usually white or opaque in colour as there is no pink from underlying tissues to be seen through it.

The cuticle of the nail is the rim of skin lying from the nail matrix around the base and sides of the nail. Its purpose is to protect the matrix from invading bacteria and water which could harm the growth of the nail. The cuticle is made of skin cells and if unkempt can grow far up the nail plate, producing unnecessary and unsightly protection. Contemporary fashions insist on pushing back the cuticle to make the lunula more visible and to increase the surface area of the nail plate for nail varnish application but it is essential not to over treat the cuticles as their function of protection is vital to maintain a healthy looking nail plate. Cutting the cuticle off completely can leave the nail’s surface and matrix open to infections and can increase the bulk of the cuticle as it grows back.

trade secrets

• When cleaning beneath the nail’s free edge do so gently or you could damage the delicate skin that joins the nail plate to the nail bed, thus reducing the surface area of the nail bed! In the long term this can lead to the lifting of the plate as well as possible infections or discomfort.

• Gently buffing the nails with a fine-grain buffer will help to smooth unsightly ridges but be sure not to over-buff as the nails will just become thinner and weaker.

• A soft leather shimmy can really make the nails shine like they have varnish on so if your profession does not allow nail varnish try this instead for the same look!

trade secrets

• Treating cuticles regularly with a massage oil or hand cream will help keep them pliable, and gently pushing them back weekly will keep them out of the way without having to cut them off completely.

• Long or unruly cuticles need to be trimmed with cuticle nippers to prevent the skin tearing which can be very painful and take a while to heal.

• Always warm the cuticles in warm water before treating them as they will expand and soften slightly in water.

• Keeping cuticles soft not only looks good but also prevents hang nails, which appear as loose, torn cuticles (pterygium) on the sides of the nails. If left these can become painful and unsightly.

Anatomy

One of the best parts of a hand or foot treatment is the massage. When applied correctly this series of stroking and kneading movements can evoke deep relaxation and tension release and it is all down to the bones, muscles and nerves in the hands and feet!

Bone tissue is strong and when used all the time, as with the hands and feet, the joints that link the bones together can become stiff and painful. Massaging around the bones can loosen the joints and muscles which lie in between the bones.

THE HANDS

The bones in the hands are grouped into three categories: the carpals, which are the bones found in the wrist; the metacarpals, those in the palm of the hand; and the phalanges, which are the finger bones. The muscles are interlinked with bones to give power and strength to our grasp and pull movements. Along with the muscles in the hands which enable a plethora of movements, the arms and shoulders are also involved with most hand movements and therefore should be massaged alongside the hands and wrists.

The complex nerve network in the hands comprises sensory nerves that lie under the skin allowing us to feel pain, heat and pressure. Motor nerves carry messages from the brain and spine to the hands to activate the muscles to move. When treated with massage both motor and sensory nerve endings are stimulated and soothed to enforce relaxation.

n When massaging, remember to massage around the bones, too.

THE FEET

The bones in the feet are also grouped into three categories: the tarsal bones are the ankle bones; the metatarsals are the bones making up the sole of the foot; and the phalanges are the bones in the toes. The nineteen muscles that make up the foot help us to achieve balance, run, walk and stand in various positions. The muscle and nerve structures are similar to those of the hands and will therefore have a similar effect when treated with massage. Often though, feet can be susceptible to foot problems as more often than not we may feel they are too far away to bother with!

Nail therapy

Nail treatments are not only designed to make the nails look groomed, they contain ingredients designed for pure pampering, and the deeper tissues of the skin, muscles and bones are stimulated and affected. Joints can be mobilised and skin complaints treated as well as circulation increased to bring warmth to the extremities and increase the feeling of wellbeing. Massage can be very invigorating but other forms of manipulation can be used to treat zones in the body that have specific energy functions. Treatments like reflexology, reiki, and trigger point massage are a few which work really well on the hands and feet and have the added advantage of being preformed pretty much anywhere!

REFLEXOLOGY

Reflexology is an age-old treatment on the hands and feet to treat other areas of the body through various pressure points found on the palms and soles. The diagram below shows a ‘body map’ of the palms and soles.

Before commencing a reflexology session, warm the hands or soles first to increase blood circulation and enforce warmth on to the colder areas. After this warming massage, apply pressure to the area you wish to treat, slowly at first, then once pressure has been applied, complete a series of pumping movements to increase the effectiveness of the treatment. Apply small circular movements as you gently release the pressure from the pressure point. For a quick fix at work, the hands are a more practical option but when relaxing at home the more powerful effects will be felt from a foot treatment.

If you are not sure which organs are responsible for what, consult the anatomy guide below for the low-down on organ function.

,Pressure points enduce holistic therapy and pure relaxation.

x This foot reflex map may help you treat minor health problems yourself.

All reflexology treatments treat the body holistically and indirectly help to relieve pressure in the body and release the symptoms of psychosomatic illness (physical illness caused or influenced by emotional factors and stress). Examples of these illnesses are headaches, backache, excessive perspiration, eye strain and anxiety. Ongoing illness or pain should always be treated by a doctor before self treatment is applied with foot or hand massage and pressure points. However, ‘self reflexology’ can be very relaxing: link the pressure points shown above with these common ailments:

Sinuses Found under the forehead bone, sinuses go from the top of the nose to the forehead and at the sides of the head, and when blocked feel like pressure around the eyes and nose. Sinuses are like fingerprints and are different for everyone. They can become painful with infection, colds and viruses so apply pressure to fingertips or toe tips to help release that bunged up feeling or discomfort in this area.

Lymph drainage Lymph is a substance that travels around the body, clearing it of toxins and waste. Light pressure applied at the base of the big toe space or in the thumb space will stimulate detoxification of the body and help reduce swelling in the body tissues if you suffer from puffy feet.

The brain Some headaches are thought to be caused by blood flowing incorrectly around the brain causing pain in different areas of the head. Reflexology here may well soothe a headache. Apply a slight pressure to the tip and side of the thumb or big toe to relieve symptoms.

Pituitary gland This endocrine gland is responsible for secreting important hormones which keep the body working and balanced. If hormone levels are unbalanced you may feel lethargic, sick, dehydrated and generally unwell. A light pressure applied to the point just below the thumbprint or at the base of the big toe will help balance problematic hormones.

Adrenal glands