The Allotment Source Book E-Book

Caroline Foley

• Herausgeber: IMM Lifestyle Books
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2017

Seitenzahl: 534

Beschreibung

Allotments are enjoying renewed popularity as more and more people are becoming interested in growing their own fruit and vegetables. However setting-up and maintaining a plot can seem daunting, particularly for the inexperienced vegetable grower. Here Caroline Foley provides a complete reference for everything to do with managing an allotment, from soil and plot organisation to propagation and pruning. Caroline includes a wealth of information on vegetable, fruit and herb varieties as well as invaluable advice on harvesting and storage. Top tips for dealing with pests and diseases are also covered, along with the essential tasks to tackle on a weekly basis in order to keep on top of the plot. This book is perfect for all types of plotholder, from the non-working person who can spend time every day caring for the plot to the busy parent and worker who only has an hour or two at the weekend. All practices and methods covered are organic, and throughout the book there will be advice from seasoned plotholders and various examples of 3-year cycles. This really is the definitive guide to running a successful and productive allotment. This title is suitable for those new to maintaining an allotment seeking an all-encompassing, definitive guide and experienced allotment growers looking for new ideas and inspiration. Grow your own enthusiasts everywhere.

Leseprobe

contents

Introduction

Finding the Plot

Preparing the Ground

The Division of Space

Making a Planting Plan

Gathering The Stock

Looking After Your Plants

The End of the Growing Season

The Allotment Year

Vegetable Directory

Fruit Directory

Herb and Flower Directory

The Problem Pages

Off The Plot

The law and allotments

Index

Useful addresses

Acknowledgements

introduction

England is not a free people until the poor that have no land, have a free allowance to dig and labour the commons.

Gerrard Winstanley (1649)

Allotments have had roller-coaster history. They sprang from the needs of starving farm labourers in the form of charity from landowners and the church; they gradually gained recognition, became almost a citizen’s right, achieved great glory in the two world wars, and then fell into sharp decline.

Now, we have the great allotment revival. Waiting lists for plots have soared to unparalleled heights, running into tens of thousands of people and decades of waiting time. British Waterways, National Trust, Crown Estates, the Church, private landowners and railway companies are amongst the many who are offering land. Unused, brown-field sites and prestigious, inner-city building sites waiting for finance are under pressure to turn themselves over for temporary plots for ‘meanwhile gardening’. Land Share puts gardens and gardeners together on the net.

Vacant concrete spaces on inner-city housing estates are being made into vibrant vegetable gardens in collections of builders’ bags or palettes. In London, the Mayor has provided small pots of grant money for new ‘food growing spaces’. At the opposite end of the scale and, by way of setting an example for green living, kitchen gardens have been installed with considerable fanfare at the White House and 10 Downing Street.

Knowing what to plant where and when to get the best result is quite a skill. So I was delighted when Garden Organic in Ryton, Coventry – the charity that promotes organic gardening – agreed to let me follow their planting plan for their show allotment through a growing season. Janet Reilly, the gardener in charge of the plot, makes a logical and easyto-follow planting plan for the produce on rotation with clever companion planting, which we can all follow or adapt to our needs.

The legal chapter has been written by Dr. Richard Wiltshire, an allotment gardener, advocate, critic and policy analyst. He is author of the official guidance on good practice in managing allotments, Growing in the Community (2008), and A Place to Grow (2010), as well as a driving force behind the Allotments Regeneration Initiative. Richard clarifies the responsibilities of local authorities to provide plots and the need for clear arguments on the social and environmental benefits of allotments if they are to be prioritized in the allocation of funds. He explains what you can and cannot do with your plot to stay within the law and local rules, and what happens if your tenancy, or the site itself, comes under threat.

My own aim in this book has been to gather as much useful information as possible and to write a totally practical guide on how to avoid the pitfalls, make wise decisions and get the greatest satisfaction out of an allotment plot.

It has been an enormous pleasure to get swept up in this new wave of allotment energy. Things have certainly changed. Back in 1969 a select committee report on allotments* described the allotment holder as ‘an individualist who considers his allotment to be as private as his home garden, who is seldom interested in anything beyond its boundaries, and is blind to his further responsibilities.’ Now the opposite is true.

Many allotments have become self-governing and pro-active in raising grants for disabled plots, sensory areas for the blind, reading circles for schools and for equipment and facilities such as polytunnels, buildings for teaching and outdoor classrooms. They also play a vital role for our diminishing wildlife. Allotment holders welcome in the local community – asylum seekers, refugees, the homeless, people with learning difficulties or depression, isolated groups of women and the elderly.

Across England and Wales, allotments provide 18,000 hectares (45,000 acres) of green space, mostly in and around towns. They are little oases of peace in a busy world. It is cheering to see more and more nature reserves cropping up on sites. It is heart-warming to note how many allotments now have bee hives, to help save the threatened honey bee.

Not only do allotment people enjoy the best things in life – open air, unpolluted fresh food, exercise and companionship – but they also provide a great service to the community and to wildlife in the process.

history of allotments in brief

1607 Midland Revolt. ‘Captain Pouch’ and his 5,000 followers protested against the enclosures. Ended in a pitched battle with 50 dead.

1649 Gerard Winstanley and the Diggers, or the ‘True Levellers’, anticipated the green movements. Saw the earth as a ‘precious common storehouse for all’. Squatted on vacant and common land to grow produce. Finally evicted by the military from St George’s Hill, Surrey.

1730s Agricultural Revolution resulted in mass unemployment among farm hands. Machinery replaced manpower. Particularly resented were the threshing machines, which took away the winter work. The old, open-field system began to be replaced.

1750-1845 Vast majority of Enclosure Acts in which 2.8 million hectares (7 million acres) of land was enclosed under 5,000 individual acts. One-third was common land. Less than 5 per cent was set aside for the poor. At the same time, the population of England and Wales increased from 5.7 million to 11 million.

1790s Concerned landlords and the Church started to set aside land as allotments for their workers and the ‘deserving poor’ – field allotments, cow runs, fuel allotments and potato grounds.

1815-1831 Napoleonic wars ended; 300,000 demobilized, adding to unemployment. 1816 Bread and Blood Riots, East Anglia. Anti-enclosure, antimachinery riots. Town and country combined in protest against the industrial looms and the threshing machines that were taking their work. 1816 Commissioners to appropriate allotment land ‘as they saw necessary’. 1830–1831 Captain Swing Riots. Groups of rioters moved from farm to farm, smashing threshing machines and setting fire to haystacks. Riots were quickly stamped out. Some 500 rioters were transported and 19 hanged. No immediate benefit to the workers.

1832 Labourers’ Friend Society founded; this was an influential group including bishops, gentry and MPs. Its aim was to persuade landlords to encourage selfrespect, independence and self-help in labourers, by giving them allotments.

1850s Rural population was dropping by 30,000 per year. As a result, allotments sprung up in the industrial towns and cities.

1884 Franchise Act gave labourers the right to vote.

1901 National Society started as a members’ co-operative.

1908 Smallholdings and Allotments Act passed. Any six registered voters now had the right to demand an allotment where there was no provision. Land could be acquired by compulsory purchase.

1914–1918 Digging for DORA (Defence of the Realm Act). By the end of the war, there were 1.5 million plots.

1918 Scottish Allotments and Gardens Society (SAGS) was founded.

1919 Demand for allotments escalated to 7,000 applications a week. Words ‘labouring population’ (the last stigma) were finally removed and allotments were officially open to all.

1922 An allotment described as ‘not exceeding forty rods which is wholly or mainly cultivated for the production of vegetables or fruit crops for consumption by himself or his family’.

1939–1945 Dig for Victory. Some 50 per cent of population grew food crops. There were 6,900 pig clubs. The people produced 70 per cent of vegetables, 25 per cent of eggs – onefifth of the nation’s food.

1947 500,000 wartime allotments had disappeared.

1950s Building boom. Developers sought to take over allotment sites.

1969 Thorpe Report commissioned by Ministry of Natural Resources to review decline. Among the report’s findings were that only 3.2 per cent of allotment holders were women. It also noted the poor provision of amenities: only 50 per cent of allotments had piped water; only 2 per cent had WCs. It concluded that allotments should be made into leisure gardens in the continental style, with good facilities for the family.

1970 There were 22,250 hectares (55,000 acres) of allotments, but by 1996 only 13,350 hectares (33,000 acres) – a decline of 43 per cent.

1998 Parliamentary Select Committee Inquiry into The Future for Allotments. The Government agrees to some changes in planning guidance and to support preparation of a good practice guide.

2001 Growing in the Community, the good practice guide for allotment management advocated by the 1998 Inquiry, is published. Revised in 2008, and extended in 2010 with publication of A Place to Grow.

2002 Allotments Regeneration Initiative created to support the implementation of good practice by allotment associations and local authorities.

____________

*Thorpe Committee of Inquiry into Allotments, 1969.

where to start

Getting hold of a plot these days is not quite as easy at it was a few years ago. Keep in mind, though, that generally people are entitled to go on more than one list, so they could be doubling up. More and smaller plots are being made available every week, and turnover can be rapid. In cities, particularly in the south-east, the unsatisfied demand is highest. It drops considerably as you head north or out into the countryside.

what’s available?

Call the local authority and speak to the allotment officer officer (see www.nameof-the-place.gov.uk). Some large councils have several staff and informative websites. Smaller places will have someone with responsibility for the allotments, even if it is not their full-time post. Either way, they should be able to provide you with the full list including the private allotments. The local library should also have the information. Once you have established what the options are, check out the local ones to see if you like the look of them. Some sites have open days and will display a contact number and the number of vacancies, if any, on a board outside.

what type of site?

Statutory allotments

These are protected by Section 8 of the Allotments Act 1925. They are owned by local authorities and comprise 87 per cent of the total. They cannot be closed down without permission from the Secretary of State for the Department of Communities and Local Government. They are therefore comparatively safe from developers, especially if they are in full use. To close them down, the council must prove that they are surplus to requirements. They must show they have promoted and publicized the site and taken into account the people on the waiting list. If a site is closed down, adequate alternative provision must be provided. The best guarantee against closure, therefore, is to keep the site fully occupied.

Temporary sites

These are on land that is intended for other purposes and is being used for allotments meanwhile. These represent 5 per cent. Along with the privately owned allotments (8 per cent including those belonging to the railway companies) they are not protected from closure by law.

Community allotments

This is a new, unofficial term for plots that are gardened communally – school plots and those for disabled or minority groups. It has also come into popular use as a term for allotment sites that open up their gates to draw in the community at large.

management – how is an allotment run?

Fully run by the council

The local authority manages the site, collects the rents and is fully responsible for repairs and maintenance.

Participation

Plot holders take responsibility on an informal basis for minor repairs. They may have an allotment forum for the views of plot holders to be aired to the council.

Delegation

An allotment association takes responsibility for the day-to-day running. This might entail collecting rents, dealing with complaints and disputes and maintenance. The authority is responsible for major repairs and overheads.

Semi-autonomy

The allotment association leases the site from the council and takes full responsibility for running it.

Weighing up the situation

There are pros and cons to all the different categories. A good self-run site is likely to be the best bet. However, its success depends entirely on the quality of the people who manage it. The rents on their own with luck may just cover the administration. To get toilets installed or a trading hut will take a pro-active effort of fund raising. Taking the delegation route relieves the plot holders from the responsibility of meeting any heavy costs and the danger of not being able to replace a first-class team should they move on. The downside of relying on the council is that they are inclined to be stretched to the limit.

A well run site will be fully occupied and have no (or very few) neglected plots.

Ideally your plot should be easy to reach from home. The luckiest plot holders have their plots right on the doorstep.

For advice on management and best practice, get hold of a copy of Growing in the Community published by the Local Government Association (see Further Reading, page 379).

considerations

Distance from your home

If you take the bus or cycle, and are carrying tools, will you get there after a hard day at work?

Facilities

In an ideal world, you want good access and well-maintained paths. You do not want a site with too many neglected plots as these may affect yours as weed seed blows in.

• Easy access to water is essential, though not required by law. It usually comes in the form of standpipes along the length of the paths backed up by water butts. Good security is vital. Allotments often suffer from vandalism.

• A shed is of great benefit. If there isn’t one supplied, it is worth asking about any rules e.g. maximum size if you decide to erect one yourself.

• A first-class site might have a clubhouse and a trading shed. Lavatories are becoming more common every year, particularly where there are disabled plots. Where plumbing is a problem a ‘tree bog’, ‘compost toilet’ or a ‘leaching bed’ can be installed.

• Enterprising management may raise money to hire or buy machinery to share – rotavators, shredders and mowers. They may put on events, lectures and open days to include the local community.

The organic site

The truly organic allotment site is catching on slowly. Generally, committees resign themselves to discouraging chemicals rather than banning them, as this is difficult rule to enforce.

Some allotment sites are fortunate in having woodland and water nearby, which makes them an oasis for wildlife. Others will make a wildlife area, which will help to keep a healthy balance between pests and predators.

Affiliations

Is the allotment site you favour a member of the National Society of Allotment and Leisure Gardeners? Roughly one-third of all allotment sites are members of NSALG. Member sites can call on them for advice and use their insurance scheme as well as buy a wide range of seed at around half the normal price. Their magazine, The Allotment and Leisure Gardener, covers local, national and international allotment news. Affiliated to NSALG is the Scottish Allotments and Gardens Society (SAGS). Members of SAGS can also join NSALG. There is no similar allotment society in Northern Ireland.

What are the rules?

Following the First World War, a hungry, largely unemployed populace began to sell the produce and flowers off their allotments to make a little money. In 1922, selling off the plot was made illegal. However, small-scale sale of produce at the level of farmers’ markets for excess produce with the money going back into the site is now quite commonly allowed and accepted. Allotments vary in strictness. Some are run on near-military lines while others are more liberal and boil the rules down to a simple, single phrase – ‘Use it or lose it.’

Typically rules are:

• no subletting your plot or using it for trade or business;

• if you vacate your plot, rent must be paid up to date and your belongings be removed within two weeks;

• you may not transfer your tenancy without permission, give your key to other people or allow them to visit your plot unsupervised;

• you must display a number board on your plot, lock gates behind you, inform the management of a change of address and allow them entry to sheds or other structures when requested;

• if you have a shed it must be well maintained;

• dogs must be kept on leads;

• at least 75 per cent of the plot must be cultivated by the end of the first year and be free of weeds;

• it is forbidden to bring rubbish onto the site, block or dig up communal pathways, wash crops or tools in water troughs or use a hosepipe or a sprinkler;

• you may not go onto other people’s plots without permission;

• you must not be abusive, violent or a nuisance to other people;

• children must be kept under control; no livestock e.g. rabbits, homing pigeons or chickens are permitted without permission.

Other rules may concern a ban on barbed or razor wire, no trees, only trained fruit trees or only trees that don’t overhang into other people’s plots. There are sometimes restrictions on bonfires.

Water is usually supplied from stand pipes which may be some distance from the plot. Collect as much rain water as possible in water butts.

There are often restrictions on the size of sheds, greenhouses, polytunnels and other structures.

If you want to keep hens, ducks or rabbits you will need to get permission from the Site Manager. Under the Welfare Act of 2006 it is an offence to fail to provide a suitable environment, appropriate diet and fresh water. You must allow them to exhibit normal behaviour, house those that are social creatures together and protect them from pain, injury, suffering and disease.

choosing the plot

Before taking on a plot, do a little research. Most allotments have open days – a good opportunity to meet people and learn about the site.

size – whole plot, half or quarter?

As allotments sprung from the needs of the 18th century peasant, it could be said to be entirely fitting that the arcane measurements – the pole, the perch and the rod – are still customarily used in allotment circles. All three are the identical measurement, the distance between the back of the plough to the nose of the ox, or 27.5 m (30¼ yd). The full-sized allotment of 10 poles therefore is 275 sq. m (329 sq. yd). This was considered the right size to supply a family with vegetables all year round.

This is a large area to keep up to scratch unless you are able to give it almost daily attention through the growing season. A wartime cropping plan recommended that half the plot be taken up with potatoes. This was calculated to bring in a massive 450 kg (10 cwt) a year, which is more than a family is likely to need these days. So be realistic as to how much time you will actually be able to spend on the plot and how much produce you and your family will actually consume. You can grow plenty of crops in half a plot, or even just a quarter one. These are becoming more commonly available now as the demand for plots continues to soar. The most common mistake for newcomers is to be overambitious, only to find that they have taken on a little more than they can handle. The best way to get the low-down is to chat to other plot holders.

If there is a choice of plots check out:

• The neighbours Your plot will be a place to relax and unwind, so it is important that you will get on well with your neighbours. It is also a good idea to avoid a neighbouring plot with a lot of weeds, which will seed themselves all over yours.

• The soil This can differ on different parts of the same site. Look at neighbouring plots to see if the plants are growing well.

• Aspect The ideal aspect is south facing. You should be able to move your beds to face in that direction unless the plot is on a slope, in which case the beds would need to go across it, or if it is shaded by trees on one side.

• Weeds If the plot is full of perennial weeds, it is going to be a big job to clear it.

• Access Good access means less barrowing of manure etc.

• Water It is a great advantage to be near a tap as water is heavy to carry.

• Shelter Wind is very damaging to plants.

• Privacy If you like a bit a peace and quiet when you garden, a corner plot might suit you best.

• Frost pockets You can’t grow food in them.

• Overhanging trees These will make the plot too shady for growing produce, and the tree roots will soak up nutrients and moisture from the soil.

The lease

Rents vary but are always the best bargain in Britain, bar none. Legally, rents are set at what a tenant can ‘reasonably be expected to pay’. The average rent is between £25 and £50 a year, possibly with additional concessions for retired allotment holders. Some of the parish church allotments are as little as £1 per annum.

The lease will include provision for a tenancy to be ended by either party. If the authority wishes to end a tenancy it will need to give a year’s notice, expiring on or before Lady Day (25 March) or after Michaelmas (29 September) each year. However, if the tenant fails to pay the rent or breaks the rules, one month’s notice is all that is required.

A hard path is a bonus for easy access and deliveries.

weeds, earth and wind

Once you’ve procured your plot, do a mini survey to establish a few facts about the soil, the weeds and the wind. You may need to tackle all three before you can really get going.

Making a rough sketch will concentrate the mind. Mark the plot out roughly to scale. Put in any existing features – the shed, water butt, paths or trees. Observe the orientation of the plot and mark it on the plan. You want vegetables to grow north to south, if possible, so that the plants won’t shade each other. If there is a damp patch, it might be a good place for a pond. If you find any frost pockets mark them in as useless for growing vegetables. Ground frost can appear even when the air temperature is above 2°C (36°F).

Check on the wind. You may need to put in wind-breaks. Mark the direction of the prevailing winds (usually southwesterly) on the plan.

weeds

Unless you are one of the few lucky exceptions, you will need to clear the weeds before you even start on a new plot. Though some weeds have their uses, none is desirable in the vegetable beds as they will compete for nutrients, water, light and space. Identify which weeds you have. Annual types are easily kept under control. Perennial weeds need a firmer hand.

Annual weeds

Annual weeds are those that grow, flower, seed and die in the course of one growing season. They propagate themselves by seed, sometimes many thousands per plant. To get on top of them, therefore, it is vital to prevent them from flowering and setting seed. If you don’t have time to tackle the problem straightaway, be sure to deadhead them before they have any chance to set seed. Watch also for little seedlings that spring up from seeds blowing in from other plots. There are various ways to deal with annual weeds.

Hoeing As annuals generally live in the top layer of the soil, they can be kept down by hoeing and hand pulling. Through the growing season, keep your hoe to hand so you can catch them young, before they make much root. Only till a few centimetres deep to avoid damaging nearby plants or bringing up more dormant weed seed to the surface and the light where it can germinate.

Shading

Mulches Once you’ve cleared the ground shade new seed out with a mulch. A 5 cm (2 in) layer of mulch between plants will dispose of most annual weeds. As the mulch is loose, any rogue seedlings that do appear can be pulled out easily. Suitable mulches, which will also benefit the soils as the worms take them down, include horse and other animal manures as well as leafmould. Spent hops are sometimes on offer from breweries, while spent mushroom compost, composed of horse manure, peat and chalk, from commercial growers, is alkaline and suitable for neutral to acid soils. All need to be rotted down well before using, to get rid of any pathogens and chemicals. Grass mowings are rich in nitrogen and make a moisture-retaining mulch. Use sparingly as they can get slimy. They can also be spread over newspaper to keep down weeds for short periods as they rot down.

Close planting Plant closely and thin late so there isn’t much room for weeds. Broad-leaved plants – potatoes, courgettes and cabbage – are effective in shading out annual weeds. If you feel you are losing the battle, give your plants a head start against the competition by transplanting, using pregerminated or chitted seed, or by fluid sowing.

The stale seedbed Prepare the bed for sowing. If the weather is cold, warm it by covering with polythene or fleece for a couple of weeks. This will encourage the weed seeds to germinate. Hoe them off before sowing your seed. Your plants should get a head start and be up and going before any more weeds appear.

Perennial weeds

Perennial weeds go on from year to year and are a more serious proposition. If you have lots, you need to take sweeping measures. Most can spread from their roots as well as from seed. Dock and cow parsley grow massive taproots. Couch grass, ground elder and willow herb make a tangled underground network, while the roots of coltsfoot, horsetail, creeping thistle and bindweed have very deep storage roots. The roots of bindweed have been found at the bottom of wells. All are difficult to dig out cleanly and will sprout from the tiniest section of root left in the ground.

Rotavating perennial weeds is counterproductive. It transforms the look of things only for the briefest moment. Ultimately, it will only make things worse. As the roots get chopped up each section will turn into another plant and so multiply itself even more. Another disadvantage is that rotavating can, in certain circumstances, damage the soil structure by creating a ‘hard pan’ – an impermeable layer which will adversely affect the drainage.

A 5 cm (2 in) layer of mulch will keep annual weeds at bay and prevent evaporation.

Many perennial weeds have an extensive root system and will resprout from the smallest piece of root left in the ground.

Horse or mare’s tail (Equisetum arvense) is a common garden weed flourishing in poor damp ground. It produces thousands of spores and the roots can go down as far as 1.5 m (5 ft).

If you make slits in weed suppressing black plastic you can grow plants through them.

Plastic sacks firmly weighed down with bricks to deal with tough perennial weeds in time.

Some of the best ways to deal with perennial weeds are as follows.

Excluding light No plant can live without light. If you have tall weeds, scythe or strim them down. Cover the area with heavy black plastic buried at the edges and weighed down with stones or bricks. For really bad weeds, like mare’s tail, layer thick wodges of newspaper, or heavy cardboard, overlapping and pinned down under the heavy black plastic. This is turn can be heavily weighted down with stones or timbers.

The length of time you need to keep the ground covered depends on the particular weed. Some will be gone within the year, while the most persistent can take three years. However, if you make cross slits in the plastic to allow in water or use porous horticultural plastic, the land needn’t be wasted. You can plant small plants of vigorous growers – potatoes, marrows or pumpkins – through the slits.

Mowing If your allotment plot is covered in thick grass and weeds, scythe or strim it down and keep it short. Only lawn weeds – low-growing ‘rosette’ weeds, like daisies – will survive constant mowing. When you are ready to plant, take off the turf, bury it upside down about a spit down and cover with the topsoil. It will soon rot down into good loam. Another method is to make a turf stack. Stack the turfs upside-down and cover with black plastic or hessian-backed carpet, to cut out the light. The stack should become friable and crumbly after six months or so.

Flame gunning A flame gun is a portable gas torch in use in agriculture since the 19th century. It gives off the right heat to rupture the cell walls several hours after exposure to the flame; it doesn’t kill the plants by burning them. You can tell if the treatment has been effective by pressing a leaf between finger and thumb after the treatment. If it leaves dark green fingerprints, then it has worked. Weeds are flame gunned at about 71°C (160°F) for a single second. In agriculture, flame gunning is generally used for clearing small weeds in the carefully calculated time between sowing a crop and the seeds emerging. It has the advantage of not disturbing the soil with the consequence of bringing more weed seed up to the light to germinate. Tough perennials may need several treatments of flame gunning. It cannot be used when the soil is mulched. Obviously flame gunning should be treated with respect. It’s wise to check with the management before going ahead.

Hand digging Water well. Start digging away from the plant to loosen the soil. Lift the weed from beneath, then go back and sift through the soil with a hand tool searching out broken-off fragments, which could turn into new plants.

This works but it is painstaking. Be realistic. You may not be able to deal with the whole plot immediately. By law, allotment holders are expected to cultivate the first quarter in three months, and threequarters by the end of the first year and the whole plot after that. So, if you are going to have a big battle with the weeds, aim to get one-quarter well weeded and planted within three months. If necessary, put the rest of it under hefty light-excluding cover until you have time to attack it.

To clear perennial weeds by digging them out, loosen the soil first and go back to tackle the weeds with hand tools making sure that you get every bit of root out.

the soil

Getting the soil into top condition is the key to successful organic growing. To grow plants on poor soil is like building a house on sand. Good soil is teaming with life and nutrients – fungi, algae, bacteria, worms, vegetable and animal remains, air and water. The organic gardener’s maxim is to look after the soil and let the soil look after the plants. Plants in top health give better yields, have resistance to pests, will shrug off diseases and spring back from adverse weather conditions.

If the plot is lush with stinging nettles, chickweed and dock, you can be fairly sure that the soil is fertile.

Dig up a little soil and analyse it. Healthy soil has an agreeable, earthy smell. A thriving worm population will tell you that it is friable and will be easy to work. Ideally, there should be two or three worms on every spadeful of soil you dig.

Check the type

Pick up a small handful half an hour after rain and roll it between thumb and fingers. Clay soil is sticky, sandy is gritty and silt is silky. Loam – the best soil of all – contains roughly equal amounts of all three. If it moulds into a ball, it will be silt or clay. Clay goes shiny when rubbed. Chalk will slip through your fingers, while peat is dark and crumbly.

Clay soil is rich in minerals and nutrients. It can become waterlogged, is slow to warm up in spring, tough to dig and will cake in the heat. Brassicas, which like firm planting, do well on clay. Avoid treading on it as it will become hard and compacted. Winter weather will break it down if you dig it over and leave it in rough clumps in autumn. Incorporate sharp sand, grit and plenty of organic matter to lighten it so that air can circulate and water drain through it. With a little work, clay can become workable, good soil.

A good wheelbarrow is essential on any allotment and is particularly useful for moving large quantities of soil.

Sandysoil is free draining and easy to work. It warms up quickly in spring. It is a light soil, particularly good for salad crops, roots and legumes. It can be too free draining so that nutrients are washed through it, or ‘leached’, by rain. It is often low in potash. Adding well-rotted compost or manure will help to bind the particles together and retain nutrients and moisture. Leave any digging until spring and keep it covered through winter, to minimize leaching.

Silt is an alluvial soil from river banks. It lies somewhere between clay and sand. It is easily compacted but holds on quite well to nutrients. Treat as for clay soil.

Chalk is free-draining, poor soil. It is full of lime, which makes it alkaline and inhospitable to many plants. It is often low in potash. Organic matter will help to bulk it up and counteract the alkalinity.

Peat comes from wetland, is light and easy to work, and is fertile but acidic. It retains water when wet but dries fast, when it has a tendency to blow away. Adding lime will make it more alkaline, while organic matter will give it substance and weight.

While each type of soil is very different in character, there is one simple cure for all types. A few years of the addition of generous quantities of organic matter applied regularly will transform each type. It will lighten clay and silt and make them more free draining and quicker to warm up in spring. It will enrich poor chalky soils and counteract the alkalinity. It will give peaty soils more body and weight.

Soil pH

The pH (potential of Hydrogen) is a scale of acidity/alkalinity. It goes from zero to 14. The ideal for plants and micro-organisms is smack in the middle at seven – neutral. Above seven is alkaline, and below seven is acid. Some plants have a preference for a little more acidity or alkalinity. The majority of food crops prefer soil on the alkaline side – pH7.5 – but potatoes are best planted in acid soil – pH5–6. Neither plants nor the micro-organisms that feed them can survive extremes at either end of the scale. However, real extremes are unusual.

How to test your soil’s pH Collect three or four small samples of soil from different parts of the plot. You can send them off for a full analysis, as advertised in gardening magazines or though the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS), but a cheap kit from a gardening centre is probably all you need.

If the soil is too acidic, add lime to counteract it. Ground limestone (calcium carbonate) and dolomitic limestone (calcium magnesium carbonate) are the organic choices. Do not add them at the same time as manure as they react against each other. General practice is to lime in autumn and manure in spring.

If the soil is too alkaline, garden manure and compost will send it in the right direction. Test every year to monitor progress. While you can tip the balance and improve the soil, you cannot completely change its character.

Soil profile

If you are being thorough, or have worries about drainage as water is sitting in pools, dig a small hole around 90 cm (3 ft) deep. This will reveal some horizontal bands – the topsoil, the subsoil, broken rock and the bedrock below.

Topsoil The first layer, the topsoil, is noticeably darker than the rest. This is the layer that feeds the plants. Check the depth. About 45 cm (18 in) of topsoil is right for soft fruit. Fruit trees need about 60 cm (24 in). Most vegetables will be happy with 38 cm (15 in).

The soil structure is the way particles clump together. If you can see plenty of holes and cracks on the exposed face you can be sure that there is plenty of air going through. If not, then you need to open it up by adding organic matter or raising the beds.

Subsoil This is lighter in colour. It contains few plant nutrients but its structure affects drainage. It is important that water can flow away and air can get to the roots. Test it by pouring water down the hole to see if it runs away. If it doesn’t, it could be due to compacted airless topsoil or an impermeable barrier in the subsoil known as a ‘hard pan’. This can usually be broken up with a pickaxe, or loosened with a fork, and kept aerated with regular additions of organic matter.

If the soil is too acidic for the crop, add lime. Avoid putting it on at the same time as manure.

The ideal is a row of compost bins – one ready, one rotting down and one in the making. The sacking blanket gives extra warmth.

garden compost and manure

Compost

To get your soil into top condition you are going to need a plentiful supply of compost. Aim for a big heap as you need a good quantity to get the full effect – around 5 kg per square metre (12 lb per square yard), applied annually. The sooner you start building a compost heap, the better. Whereas a commercial-sized heap will heat up in a matter of days, a small heap can take all winter, or two or three months in summer, to rot down.

Making compost is the speeding up of a natural process that will bring life to the soil. As animal and vegetable remains rot down, the heap heats up and the population of helpful micro-organisms will burgeon. As the heap cools down, worms and insects join in.

The final result is humus – gardener’s gold. It dramatically improves soil texture, structure, water-holding capacity and drainage. When the compost is ready, it will have reduced by half its volume, it will be sweet smelling, dark and crumbly. The original contents will be unrecognizable.

Compost bins The best plan is to have three compost bins – one ready to use, one rotting down and one being filled. You need a container without a bottom so that the worms to get in. Small gaps are important for air circulation but you don’t want gaping holes as they will let the heat out and dry the compost. A lid or cover will keep the rain off and you will need access from the side or top to turn the compost and get it out. For fast composting, make the bins at least 1 cu. m (35 cu. ft).

There are many types on the market including recycled plastic bins. Occasionally these are given out free by the council. However, on a plot an excellent, no-cost compost bin can be made from three pallets nailed together at the corners with a fourth tied on to make a door. Push straw, old sacks or newspaper into the gaps and make a lid from a piece of board. Wood is the best material for compost bins as it has insulation and it ‘breathes’.

Compost activators To speed up the action, use a compost activator every 15 cm (6 in) or so through the heap. A little rotted compost from an old heap will get the process started. Farm manure, human urine, nettles, seaweed meal, poultry or pigeon droppings, comfrey leaves and blood, fish and bone are all good activators. Lime helps if the heap smells sour or if you are on acid soil.

What to compost You can compost anything organic – kitchen scraps, tea bags and coffee, eggshells, wood ash, hair, newspaper and cardboard, natural fabrics, garden prunings and weeds.

However, if you are not sure that you will achieve maximum heat, it is prudent to leave out perennial weed roots, weed seeds (which might survive the experience), fish and meat (which might attract rodents) and diseased material. The topgrowth of potatoes often contains potato blight and potatoes may sprout again, so don’t take the risk. Brassica roots may have club-root. Cat and dog faeces should never be used for compost where you are growing vegetables. Evergreen plants are slow to decompose. Keep them separate. Pine needles are acidic and can make a good mulch for acid-loving plants such as blueberries or be used for paths.

How to make compost Start off the heap with something coarse and twiggy (sticks or straw) to let in air from the bottom. Build it slowly as and when you have suitable materials or go for a fast, big heap. To do this, collect and save a good assortment of materials, aiming for about one-third green (wet) materials to twothirds of dry ones. Fill a few dustbins full of different things before you start. You might pick up extra material from outdoor markets and greengrocers. Chop up woody materials into short lengths and crush the tough stalks or be prepared to pull them whole out at the end. Cut fabrics up into small pieces. Tear newspaper into strips.

Water any dry materials, such as straw, paper and cloth. Squeeze them out. If you have too much green material, particularly grass mowings, you will end up with a slimy mess. You want moisture, but not sogginess, which will make the heap putrefy. Aim for squeezed sponge dampness. Mix your ingredients together. Let the heap settle by itself.

A couple of turnings at intervals of a few weeks will speed up rotting and give you the opportunity to check on progress and make adjustments. Dig out the whole heap onto a plastic sheet and add whatever it lacks – more water or green material if it’s too dry, more shredded dampened paper, rags or straw if it’s too wet. Mix it up again, add some more activator and fork it back. To get full value from your compost when it is ready, use it in early spring.

If you don’t have enough material to make much difference to the heap, bury kitchen and garden waste about 30 cm (12 in) deep in a trench. Cover with soil and allow it to rot down. Make holes, fill them with potting compost and plant greedy feeders, such as courgettes, through it. Bean trenches are often prepared in this way in autumn for the following year. Many people put a layer of mowings or a few comfrey leaves in potato trenches before planting.

Sheet composting looks unsightly but is another way to make use of small amounts of kitchen and garden waste. Lay thin layers of compost between vegetable rows and let it rot down where it lies on the soil.

Leaf-mould Compost is broken down quickly by bacteria, while leaf-mould is broken down gently by fungus. After a year it can be dug in, to improve soil structure, opening it up for air and water, as a peat substitute and for home-made seed and potting compost. As it can hold up to 500 times its weight in water it makes a great water-retaining mulch. If you leave it for a second year it will turn into humus. If you want to speed up the process, shred the leaves by running a mower over them first.

Collect the leaves in a cage of chicken wire or in black plastic sacks with holes punched into them. Add a little water. No further action is needed except to push the pile down as you add more leaves, and to water it in dry summer months. If you and other plot holders need more leaves, the Parks Departments will often deliver them free of charge.

An effective leaf mould container can be made out of a length of chicken wire. The sticks at the bottom are to raise it for air circulation.

Animal manure

Well-rotted horse manure is another great traditional soil improver. The urine in it provides nitrogen and potassium, and the manure and straw bedding will bulk up the soil. Do a little research, however, before obtaining any from an unknown source.

Animal manure must not be used fresh as it will scorch the plants, rob them of nitrogen and may be full of pathogens – possibly horrors like wormers, antibiotics, weed-killers or hormones. Once rotted down, however, it will be transformed into a great soil conditioner. On straw it should only take 3–6 months to rot. On wood shavings it will take a year.

As with compost, the bigger the heap, the better and the more quickly it will rot down. A good-sized heap would be 1.5 m (5 ft) high and wide. Speed it up by turning the sides into the middle from time to time. If the top and sides are covered with polythene or a tarpaulin, more heat will be created. If hot enough this will kill off lurking weed seeds and prevent the nutrients from being leached by rain. When ready, the manure will be dark, crumbly and pleasant smelling as well as teaming with small, bright red branding (fishing) worms.

Using animal manure For vegetables, spread the well-rotted manure thickly on the soil in winter, for the frosts to break it down even further. The worms will till it for you, dragging it down into the soil. However, if you need to lime the soil in autumn, spread the manure in spring. If applied at the same time they will react against each other and the nitrogen will be wasted.

Green manures

Green manures, until recently regarded as agricultural rather horticultural crops, are now widely used by plot holders. They are even introduced in tiny spaces such as the greenhouse. They are fast-growing crops that can be slotted in for a few weeks or up to a year or more when there are gaps or when you want to leave a part of the ground fallow. Green manures are cut down when young and dug in, adding fertility and improving soil structure. The tops will provide you with masses of good material for the compost heap.

If you have empty beds that you are not ready to plant, or a gap between two different crops, a green manure crop will make a quick-growing, temporary cover, blocking out the light to keep the weeds down. If you wanted to take some time off in winter, a covering of winter green manures, such as grazing rye or winter tare, will protect the soil and keep your plot looking cared for while you are away.

As the roots bind the soil together they are beneficial for light soils and they prevent erosion and leaching by rain. Heavy clay soils benefit from the types of green manures that have roots that will break it up, such as buckwheat and Italian ryegrass, helping drainage and drawing nutrients and minerals from the depths.

The leguminous types, such as clovers, winter beans, trefoil and lupins, store nitrogen in the roots, which is released into the soil as they rot down when dug in. Nitrogen is good for leaf growth. So these green manures are particularly useful when followed by a leafy brassica crop.

The bigger the manure heap, the quicker it will rot down.

Manure is ready to use when it is sweet smelling and full of branding worms.

Phacelia tanecetifolia has ferny leaves and lavender flowers which are so attractive to hoverflies that it is used in agriculture for biological control against crop pests.

Trefoil is useful for resting overused soil and improving fertility. The plants can be left in the ground for a year or so but should be clipped occasionally to stop them going woody.

Most have flowers that attract beneficial insects. Though the crops are usually dug into the soil before they flower, it is worth leaving a few in the ground for this reason. Alternatively, keep a patch especially for beautiful crimson clover and the forget-me-not blue of Phacelia flowers. You could include a few in your wildflower area. Another idea is to sow crimson clover underneath established fruit trees. It will look a picture and work like a magnet for bees and butterflies. Green manures make good cover for the pest controllers such as beetles, frogs and toads.

Sowing green manure Before sowing green manure rake the ground to a fine tilth. Usually the seed is broadcast by throwing it as you walk up one side of the bed and across the top. If the area to be sown is small, large seed (from, for example, field bean or lupin) can be sown individually by hand.

Cutting down Cut down green manures before they flower or when you need the ground. Dig them up, chopping up the foliage with a spade as you go to speed up decomposition. Light annuals, such as mustard or buckwheat, can be hoed off. Cut down tougher specimens, such as Italian rye grass or grazing rye, and leave for a few days before digging them in roughly. A second digging usually will get the last roots out. If the plants have become woody, put the tops on the compost heap and dig in the roots only. Some of the perennials, such as clover, trefoil and rye grasses, may regrow and will need to be hoed off or covered with mulch. Break up any tough lumps with a sharp spade. If you are on the no-dig system (see page 46), leave the residue on the surface to act as a mulch, or compost it.

When to sow and plant after green manuring Green manure that has been in for only a few weeks will rot down quickly and a new crop can go in within a few days. A more mature crop will take as long as a month – longer for the grazing ryes. The rye grasses inhibit seed germination while they rot down. Either wait for a few weeks before sowing the next crop, or use transplants, rather than seed, as they will not be affected.

Types of green manure Fenugreek, mustard, Phacelia and buckwheat are fastgrowing, leafy plants that can be slotted in six- to eight-week gaps when the ground is cleared between crops.

Winter tare, grazing rye, winter beans and Italian ryegrass are sown in early autumn when many vegetables are lifted and can stay over winter, to be dug into the soil the following spring – a productive way to leave the land fallow.

Alfalfa, red clover and trefoil can be left in the ground for a year or so but should be clipped occasionally to stop them going woody. These are useful for resting overused soil, improving fertility or giving you a break.

Keep in mind crop rotation. Winter beans, clover and lupins are legumes. Mustard and fodder radish are brassicas.

Green manure plantsAlfalfa, lucerne

(Medicago sativa) LEGUMINOSAENitrogen fixer. A few months or up to three years. Growing to 1 m (3 ft). If left long term, cut the tops off before they go woody and put them on the compost heap, to encourage fresh growth. Agricultural fodder crop with massively deep roots, up to 4.5 m (15 ft) long, which draw up nutrients to the topsoil. Dislikes wet, acid soils.

Beans, field

(Vicia faba) LEGUMINOSAENitrogen fixer. Agricultural broad beans, originally grown as animal fodder – hence the expression ‘full of beans’. They have deep tap roots which help to excavate the soil and add organic matter to the subsoil. Sow September to November to overwinter Very hardy. Best in moist loam. Foliage will sprout again when cut down. Moderately easy to dig in. Dry seed for following year.

Buckwheat

(Fagopyrum esculentum) POLYGONACEAE – knotweed family. Anywhere in the crop rotation. Tender annual. 90 cm (3 ft). Sow in April or when the soil warms up. Fast grower, producing plentiful organic matter. Can be cut down in June. Good, short-term green manure for resting the soil in spring before the tender vegetables – tomatoes, aubergines, peppers – are planted in June. Has deep roots, which break up heavy soils and draw up nutrients. Smothers weeds. Copes with poor soil. Flowers attract helpful hoverflies.

Crimson clover

(Trifolium incarnatum),

Essex red clover

(T. pratense),

and white clover

(T. repens) LEGUMINOSAE

Nitrogen fixers. Hardy perennials, growing up to 30 cm (12 in). Crimson clover prefers light soil and has gorgeous, red flowers, which are loved by bees. Sow March–August or leave over winter. Red Essex clover prefers good loam. Sow April–August for 3–18 months. Crimson and red clovers are fairly easy to dig in. White clover is a long-lived perennial with a deep taproot. It is good for long-term green manuring. It has dense foliage to suppress weeds and is very attractive to friendly predators. However, repeated use of any clover can bring on ‘clover sickness’.

White clover is good for long-term green manuring. It has dense foliage to suppress weeds and is very attractive to friendly predators.

Fenugreek

(Trigonella foenum-graecum)

LEGUMINOSAE

Rarely fixes nitrogen in the UK. Semihardy annual. 60 cm (24 in). Possibly best fast grower. Bushy plants have weed-suppressing foliage. Plant late spring–summer. Grow for up to three months in well-drained, moistureretentive soil.

Lupin

(Lupinus angustifolius) LEGUMINOSAE Agricultural lupin. Sow spring for a slowmaturing summer crop. 50 cm (20 in). Takes 2–3 months to get to the digging stage. Seeds are sown rather than broadcast. Deep-rooting lupins improve soil texture, fix nitrogen and are effective in suppressing weeds. If left to flower, they are attractive to beneficial predators. They are poisonous, possibly ruling them out for the allotment.

Mustard

(Sinapsis alba) BRASSICACEAETender annual for couple of months in summer or early autumn. Rapid growing and weed smothering. Needs moisture and fertile soil. Reduces soil-borne pests and diseases. Once mustard starts to flower, it goes over quickly, so dig it in. This is easily done. Good green manure for summer.

Trefoil is usually dug in before flowering when used as a green manure. If you leave a few plants to flower however, it will draw in bees like a magnet.

Phacelia

(Phacelia tanacetifolia) HYDROPHYLLACEAE – waterleaf family. Anywhere in the rotation. Semi-hardy annual. Growing to 90 cm (3 ft). Ferny leaves. Bright blue flowers attractive to beneficial insects. Grow for a couple of months in summer or for 5–6 months in winter. Easygoing regarding soils and easy to dig in.

Ryegrasses – Hungarian grazing rye

(Secale cereale)

Italian ryegrass

(Lolium multiflorum) GRAMINEAE

Grass family. Anywhere in the rotation. Tough, hardy annuals used for overwintering on almost any soil. Sow August–November. Considered to be best green manures for soil improvement. Dig out a couple of months before you need the land and let them rot down. The disadvantages are that their tough fibrous roots are not easy to dig up.

Trefoil

(Medicago lupulina) LUGUMINOSAE Nitrogen fixer. Hardy biennial. Summer grower. 30 cm (12 in). Sow March–August. It takes three months to grow and is a good crop for overwintering. Not fussy about soil except will not survive in acid. Makes dense foliage.

Winter tare

(Vicia sativa) LEGUMINOSAE

Nitrogen fixer. Hardy annual. 75 cm (30 in). Fast-growing, bushy vetch providing good leaf cover. Dislikes drought. Prefers alkaline soils. Sow in March–May or July–September for three months. Reasonably easy to dig in. Five-star green manure for fixing nitrogen quickly and suppressing weeds.

wind

Though plants need a good air flow round them they will not prosper in winds. Even mild winds dry out the topsoil, plant roots and leaves. As vegetables are juicy plants, they are particularly susceptible to dehydration. Wind stress has the effect of producing smaller plants, with smaller leaves and flowers. This makes them less attractive to pollinators and helpful predators. When the ground is frozen, overwintering crops are not able to take up water to replace moisture blown out of their leaves.

If you are on a windy site, put up windbreaks. It is reckoned that shelter will increase production by up to 30 per cent. To be effective windbreaks need to filter the wind and diffuse it. A solid barrier is counterproductive because wind is like a tidal wave: when it hits a solid barrier it will shoot over the top at full force.

If the wind is on the mild side of the allotment, plant a natural windbreak in the form of tall plants such as trained fruit trees or a summer screen of Jerusalem artichokes. If the wind is more severe, a hedge – not always allowed on allotments – is highly effective. A mixed native deciduous hedge would be of great advantage to wildlife as well as you. Lathe and wattle fencing or trellis will look attractive and be doubly useful as you can grow crops up them. You can buy plastic netting for the purpose, which you could also use to back up the hedge until it grows up.

A windbreak is effective up to six times its height. So a 2 m (6 ft) windbreak would protect the 12 m (40 ft) in front of it. Small plants can be protected by bigger ones running alongside them or a strip of green manure like grazing rye.

divide and rule

On the principle of divide and rule, start by splitting the plot up into manageable chunks. You needn’t use traditional squares and rectangles – triangles, circles, ovals and diamond shapes are equally good.

components

Important components for consideration of a place on your plot are:

• shed, greenhouse, polytunnel, cold frames, seating area, water butts and nursery bed;

• compost bins, manure heaps and leaf-mould;

• windbreaks;

• beds for annual vegetables on rotation, for perennial vegetables, soft fruit, trained top fruit, herbs and flowers;

• raised beds;

• climbers on supports and screens for privacy;

• paths;

• a pond;

• children’s beds.

Structures

The shed, greenhouse, polytunnel, cold frames, seating area, water butts and nursery beds would normally be grouped together for ease of working. The roof of the shed or greenhouse can be used for catching rainwater to be siphoned off into water butts below. If you choose a shed where the pitch of the roof isn’t too steep (30 degree maximum) you could green roof it (see Meadow on a roof, page 335). The south-facing side of a shed might make a handy sheltered position for seedbeds and cold frames. Near the shed (and the kettle) would be a natural place to sit.

Composting areas