The Art & Craft of Coffee Cocktails - Jason Clark - E-Book

The Art & Craft of Coffee Cocktails E-Book

Jason Clark

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Beschreibung

Enjoy two of life's greatest pleasures – coffee and alcohol – with this comprehensive guide to mixing perfect coffee cocktails. World-class mixologist Jason Clark will inspire, excite and educate you by taking you behind the bar for a masterclass in creating coffee-based cocktails. First take a journey into the history and craft of coffee, the world's most popular beverage, from crop to cup. Next follow his expert mixing tips aimed at everyone from keen beginners to bartenders working in the world's best bars. More than 75 recipes follow, covering all styles of cocktails from stirred and shaken through to blended and blazed. Learn how to perfect simple classics such as Espresso Martini and Irish coffee or try your hand at technical modern marvels Cinnamon Toast Crunch White Russian and Whiskey Pour Over. With The Art and Craft of Coffee Cocktails in hand your daily grind will never be the same!

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The Art & Craft of

COFFEE COCKTAILS

The Art & Craft of

COFFEE COCKTAILS

Over 75 recipes for mixing coffee and liquor

JASON CLARK

with photography by Alex Attikov Osyka

Designer Paul Stradling

Editor Dawn Bates

Production David Hearn

Picture research Christina Borsi

Creative Director Leslie Harrington

Editorial Director Julia Charles

Publisher Cindy Richards

Indexer Hilary Bird

First published in 2018.

This revised edition published in 2022 by Ryland Peters & Small

20–21 Jockey’s Fields

London WC1R 4BW

and

341 E 116th St

New York NY 10029

www.rylandpeters.com

Text and commissioned photography © Jason Clark 2018, 2022

For full picture credits, see right

The author’s moral rights have been asserted. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher.

ISBN: 978-1-78879-469-5

eISBN: 978-1-78879-485-5

A CIP record for this book is available from the British Library. US Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication data has been applied for.

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Printed and bound in China

Notes

• Both British (metric) and American (Imperial ounces plus US cups) measurements are included in these recipes for your convenience; however, it is important to work with one set of measurements only and not alternate between the two within a recipe.

• All spoon measurements are level unless otherwise specified.

Picture credits

Photographs by Alex Attikov Osyka, except for:

Page 14 Joy Skipper/Getty Images

16l Dirk Funhoff/Getty Images

16r Fine Art Images/Heritage Images/Getty Images

17 ©Hulton-Deutsch Collection/CORBIS/Corbis via Getty Images

18r De Agostini/Biblioteca Ambrosiana/Getty Images

19 GABRIEL BOUYS/AFP/Getty Images

20 Somsak Khamkula/EyeEm/Getty Images

21 John Coletti/Getty Images

22 Aaron McCoy/Getty Images

23l Jason Bakker/EyeEm/Getty Images

23r Diego Lezama/Getty Images

24 andresr/Getty Images

25l George Peters/Getty Images

25r Prashanth Vishwanathan/Bloomberg/Getty Images

26l Michael Marquand/Getty Images

26r Mint Images/Tim Pannell/Getty Images

27l Adam Gault/Getty Images

27r Michael Marquand/Getty Images

32 Westend61/Getty Images

33 Library of Congress - edited version © Science Faction/Getty Images

34l Adam Gault/Getty Images

48 Nathan ALLIARD/Getty Images

This book is dedicated to my No.1 supporter, friend and favourite cocktail-loving customer, Girl Sam Gilmore. I have no doubt she would have made her way through every single recipe in this book were she still sitting at my bar. This one’s for you Sam.

Contents

Foreword

Introduction

Using this book

Useful kit

COFFEE

Coffee timeline

The wonderful world of coffee

Coffee, in a nutshell

The roastery

The roast

Selecting coffee

The flavours of coffee

Brewing coffee for cocktails

Extraction

Espresso extraction

Cold brew extraction

French press extraction

Pour-over extraction

Pod coffee

COCKTAILS

Cocktail fundamentals

1 Shaken

2 Hot

3 Built

4 Stirred & Thrown

5 Blended

6 Homemade Coffee Products

Glossary

Index

About the author/Acknowledgements

Foreword

Martin Hudak

The American Bar at the Savoy Hotel London

World Coffee in Good Spirits Champion 2017

The Art & Craft of Coffee Cocktails is a publication that has been missing in our industry for many years. This fantastic combination of two different fields showcases easy-to-use recipes complemented with delicious pictures. It is a must-have for all drinks lovers and industry professionals. May you enjoy many a coffee cocktail while reading this inspirational book!

Cheers,

Martin

Gary Regan

Legendary bartender and author of numerous bar industry titles such asThe Joy of Mixology, The Negroni, The Bartenders’ Gin Compendiumand more

When Jason Clark speaks, bartenders listen. It’s a sure sign that, when it comes to cocktails, he has a firm grasp on what’s going on behind the bars of the world. And to prove it, he’s first out of the gate with a book about the hottest drinks trend in the world: coffee cocktails. The Espresso Martini, created by the late, great bartending legend, Dick Bradsell, was, I believe, the drink that started all the fuss, and if you’ve ever tasted one of these babies, you’ll know what all the fuss is about. But Jason takes the whole concept of all coffee cocktails to a new level by examining every aspect of each drink within these pages. Here you’ll learn about different styles of coffee, how to make them, and you’ll discover why Jason chooses specific varieties for each drink that appears in his book. Indeed, there’s a good chance that you’ll emerge from this book as a fully qualified coffee geek. Wouldn’t that be a treat?! And your adventure through this tome will be a very entertaining trip, indeed, as Jason takes you by the hand and imparts his wisdom in his own unique style. You’ll be mentored, and you won’t even realize it’s happening.

Gary

introduction

It is my utmost pleasure to introduce this collection of recipes, created over the course of 20-plus years working in the drinks industry. It is designed to educate, motivate and inspire readers of all levels, from beginners to already experienced bartenders and baristas, into combining two of life’s greatest pleasures – coffee and liquor – in creative and, most importantly, delicious ways!

Both the coffee and cocktail industries are currently revelling in golden eras of quality and creativity, something that can be almost entirely put down to the professional, passionate and creative bartenders and baristas found in arguably every city in the world, working long hours towards the development and progression of their chosen crafts.

More often than not, however, these two kindred trades are kept worlds apart; coffee rules the light and liquor the night.

These often unsung heroes of our morning meetings and 5 ‘o’clock Fridays continue to raise the bar to lofty new heights day in, day out, striving for that perfect serve – not only to put bums on seats and bucks in the bank, but also to put smiles on the faces of an endless stream of nameless strangers in search of a little extra joy in their day.

For both bartenders and baristas, ticking all of these boxes brings an often unspoken sense of fulfilment, one that’s hard to find in the countless other potential careers that are shunned in favour of a dirty apron, tired feet, cracked fingers and the unsociable hours found on the stage that is the bar or the counter.

I fell for the bar first and the bean second. Being a night owl, I’ve generally managed to avoid early mornings almost as much as I avoid instant coffee, but a motivational caffeine pep-talk quickly became a part of my daily bar routine as I looked for ways to retain energy and keep a smile on my face into the wee hours of the morning. As coffee and cocktails both played such important roles in my life, mixing the two together just seemed natural.

Today there is one coffee cocktail that rules them all – the Espresso Martini. This classic cocktail has hit an all-time high in popularity, with guests all around the world ordering it in record numbers. Espresso machines have also slowly but surely become an almost compulsory piece of bar apparatus and, with this addition, bartenders are expected to be able to shake up the unmistakably delicious, boozy, bitter-sweet velvet we have come to know and love so well until all hours of the night, leaving bartenders hating the 3 a.m. coffee-machine clean down at the end of service.

I’ll delve deeper into the phenomenon that is the Espresso Martini later in the book, as well as introduce you to plenty of other examples of combining the qualities of coffee and liquor to make delicious and invigorating cocktails for the drinking pleasure of your friends, guests and, just as importantly, yourself.

But first let’s look at how combining coffee with liquor adds the essential elements of both flavour and mouthfeel to your cocktails:

FLAVOUR Coffee has a strong and distinctive flavour most people tend to either love or hate. Every brew is made up of dozens of flavour nuances. If we take a typical cup of coffee and break it down to identify the taste, people will generally sound out cacao, toffee, toasted spices and nuts. This means it will naturally pair with other ingredients that have similar flavours. Examples include, but aren’t limited to, aged rum and tequila, brandy, amaro, whiskies from Ireland, Scotland, America and everywhere in between, along with so many more spirits and liqueurs, and we therefore know that we can very easily pair them with coffee.

Besides all of these obvious flavours there are plenty of less obvious ones coffee can be paired to work well with (depending on the brew), such as beetroot, grapefruit, berries, apple, orange, passionfruit, stone fruits and so many more.

Coffee can be used either as a base flavour for the drink, dominating all the other flavours it’s matched to like in an Espresso Martini or Irish Coffee, or less commonly it can be used as a modifier flavour. A small amount is added to play a supporting role to the other flavours in the drink. For example, adding a dash or two of coffee bitters to an Old Fashioned for a subtle influence.

MOUTHFEEL Along with flavour and aroma, coffee can also add a tremendous amount of mouthfeel to a cocktail. We tend to think of bitter and/or sweet or even sour characters. Mouthfeel can also be light, heavy, fluffy, cold, warm or hot depending on how the coffee is extracted. These are all elements you should consider when making or ordering a coffee cocktail.

I hope that this book will help to educate, inspire and, most importantly, whet your appetite to mix and drink these often- maligned man-made liquids of magnificence.

Enjoy!

using this book

I assume that if you’ve read this far you already have an interest in both making and drinking coffee and cocktails… well, high five to that! In the following pages, I aim to give you a deeper understanding of both and share a few tips and tricks for mixing coffee cocktails, as well as making other useful ingredients and products such as bitters, liqueurs and foams.

KIT Having the right tools can help a lot when it comes to constructing fancy cocktails, so take a look at pages 12–15 to see what I recommend. But, remember, all this kit is not always necessary. Feel free to improvise any way you can – for example, jam jars make good shakers and rolling pins make great muddlers. It’s all about doing the best you can with what you’ve got available.

Preparation is the key: I recommend selecting the recipes you want to make and laying out your tools and ingredients neatly first to make sure you have everything you need, and to make the overall process easier on yourself. Clean as you go and place items back in the same place immediately after use to help you to work faster and more efficiently with clarity.

COFFEE The section on coffee (see pages 16–31) is designed to give curious readers a beginner- to intermediate-level insight into the history, cultivation, harvest and production of good-quality coffee, to build appreciation of this very special part of our day-to-day lives. Following this, on pages 32–49, I look into a variety of different brewing techniques, including instructions and tips on how to make great coffee. I recommend using this section to help you learn how to brew good coffee to drink on its own and/or to use in cocktails.

If you’re already a pro, I hope you can pick up a few tricks to add to your repertoire as you flick through the chapters. For those with less experience, join me on a step-by-step journey through the next few pages to build yourself a great platform to develop your passion further and advance your abilities for mixing or ordering coffee cocktails.

TYPE OF COCKTAIL The recipes are organized into chapters based on how they are made – shaken, hot, built, stirred or thrown, and blended – so select the style of drink you want and proceed from there.

INGREDIENTS Homemade ingredients will either be detailed on the page or given a page reference to a longer, more complex recipe elsewhere in the book.

NOTES Certain liquor elements may not be available in your area and, as coffee is hugely dependent on how it’s made and with what, I have added Coffee and Liquor notes to each recipe. These give recommendations and often alternative suggestions to help you flex them to suit your personal needs.

PHOTOS There’s a photo of every cocktail to give you a clear indication of how the finished product should look, but feel free to use whatever glassware you have at hand and finish the drinks your own way. Bartending is all about evolving and innovating recipes, so be creative!

SKILL LEVEL Each recipe comes with a difficulty rating (see right). At the start of each chapter, there is a simple classic recipe that has proven over time to be an iconic serve. From there on the difficulty slowly increases, so depending on your experience, skill level and access to advanced equipment, you can start easy and work your way up, or just jump in at the deep end. I hope the more challenging recipes will inspire you to both mix and order more interesting coffee cocktails at home and in bars and cafes around the world. Look for these skill rating icons at the start of each recipe:

Beginner

Fairly simple drinks that only require basic tools – start with these if you are a novice.

Intermediate

More advanced drinks that may require more specialist ingredients and techniques.

Expert

Complex cocktails that require specialist items and are more suited to experienced bartenders.

useful kit

Both bartenders and baristas use a specific sets of tools to achieve high-quality drinks. Stunning precision tools, hand-crafted by Japanese samurais and German nuclear physicists, are becoming more and more readily available both online and in kitchen and hospitality stores. Though nice to have, these items are not essential, particularly when mixing drinks at home. A little bit of ingenuity goes a long way, so improvise and make do with what you have.

In these pages I’ve detailed the main items you will need, along with a few suggestions for more commonly available alternatives. The photographs show an extensive selection of the items professionals should have in their toolbox. If you want to buy any of the top tools, or perhaps just drool over all the shiny bling, go online where you will find an incredible selection of everything you may want and more, all of which can be ordered online and shipped internationally.

Cocktails

COCKTAIL SHAKER A two-piece Boston shaker is the shaker of preference for most bartenders due to its ease of use. Alternatively, use a three-piece cobbler shaker, or even a large, solid glass jar will do.

JIGGER A device for measuring small quantities of liquid is essential. A shot glass, egg cup or baking measurement spoons will do if you don’t have a bar-specific tool.

HAWTHORNE STRAINER Designed to fit on to the mouth of a shaker to quickly separate liquids, for example from ice and fruit pulp, this is an essential piece of bar kit. Alternatively, a large slotted kitchen spoon can work too.

BARSPOON Professional barspoons have multiple uses and are extremely useful. They are predominantly used for stirring and swizzling drinks. For this purpose, one with a long, spiralled handle is best; otherwise improvise with a tablespoon or wooden spoon. Barspoons are also used for measuring out small (5 ml) quantities so as a substitute a 5 ml measuring spoon could also be used.

ICE SCOOP This often-forgotten tool is essential for both speed and hygiene as it transfers the ice to your shaker or glass with ease, whilst keeping grubby paws from contaminating the drink. A sturdy coffee mug works well as a substitute. Never scoop ice with glass as it may chip and you may end up with glass in your drink.

Top row: Jigger; Peeler; Hawthorne strainer; Strainer; Sieve; Strainer

Centre (clockwise): Mini-grater, Tongs, Muddler, Swizzle stick, Barspoon, Knife

Bottom row: Cocktail shaker, Mixing glass, Dasher, Atomizer, Cocktail sticks, Ice scoop

GLASSWARE The glass you choose makes a huge difference to the look, feel and overall appreciation of your completed drink, so a mixed selection of fine-quality glassware (as seen throughout this book) is naturally preferred. However, don’t be afraid to improvise and make do with what you have. Some of the best drinks I’ve ever had have been served in glasses from a thrift shop, jam jars or even disposable coffee cups.

Coffee

DIGITAL SCALES Nowadays, even water is often weighed so digital scales are essential to help you with both accuracy and consistency in your brewing.

BURR GRINDER Accurately ground coffee is the key to getting the most out of your beans. Luckily quality grinders are now available at much more affordable prices than even a few years back. Look for one that’s easily adjustable and hard-wearing.

GOOSENECK KETTLE Designed for accurate pouring, these quality kettles also come with digital controls for reaching and holding accurate temperatures.

A good-quality household electric burr grinder.

STAINLESS STEEL MILK JUG Ideal for heating, aerating and pouring milk accurately.

TODDY COLD BREW HOPPER I am a huge fan of the Toddy Cold Brew extraction system (see page 41). It’s so easy to make large batches of consistently great coffee with a 2–3 week shelf life.

Other useful tools

• Apron

• Atomizer bottle

• Bitters dasher

• Chopping board

• Cinnamon duster

• Filter paper

• Julep strainer

• Measuring jug/pitcher

• Measuring spoon

• Mini spice grater

• Mixing glass

• Paintbrush (for clearing loose coffee grinds)

• Peeler for zesting

• Sharp knife

• Small basket strainer

• Superbags

• Muddler/rolling pin

• Tea towels/dish towels

• Tongs

• Vacuum seal bags

Top row: Chemex jar; Plastic jug/pitcher; Stovetop moka pot; Measuring spoon; Drip brew system

Middle row: Copper kettle; Filter papers

Bottom row: French Press (cafetière); Burr grinder; Ground coffee jar; Digital scales

coffee timeline

A fascinating look at coffee through the ages.

5TH CENTURY

An Ethiopian goat herder notices his goats are overly energetic from eating cherries. He takes these cherries to a local monastery; the monks realize that chewing the cherries allows them to stay up late and achieve more work.

7TH CENTURY

Muslim pilgrims bring coffee to Yemen. Here they discover that roasting and brewing the beans makes an energizing tea. They begin to cultivate coffee trees in the mountains called Qahwa – the Arabic word for coffee.

11TH CENTURY

Iranian physician Avicenna describes the medicinal benefits of coffee as “A digestive and vascular system aid.”

16TH CENTURY

• Coffee-drinking spreads throughout the Islamic world – Arabia, Egypt, Turkey and North Africa.

• Turkey opens the first coffee house outside of Arabia in 1554, called Kiva Han, which becomes known as the ‘School of the Wise’.

• The Turks introduce coffee to Greece; the same production method is still used there to this day.

17TH CENTURY

• European travellers visit the Middle East and discover coffee. It soon starts to spread back home…

• 1647: Venice opens its first coffee house, Bottega Del Cafe.

• 1650: England opens its first coffee house, Penny University, Oxford.

• 1652: London opens its first coffee house, Virginia Coffee House.

• 1673: Germany opens its first coffee house, Schutting.

• 1675: King Charles II bans coffee shops because he thinks that people are meeting there to conspire against him.

• 1677: Hamburg opens its first coffee house.

• 1683: Vienna opens its first coffee house; the creation of the Melange.

• 1685: The Dutch begin to grow coffee in their colonies.

• 1688: A coffee house, Edward Lloyds (pictured above right) opens in London. It later develops into the world's largest insurance company.

• 1689: Paris opens its first coffee house, Cafe Procope.

• 1696: New York opens its first coffee house, The King's Arms.

18TH CENTURY

• 1714: The Mayor of Amsterdam gives coffee as a gift to King Louis XIV of France.

• 1720: The Portuguese take coffee to Brazil

• 1723: A Dutch naval officer takes a seedling to the Caribbean and plants it in Martinique.

• 1750: Rome opens its first coffee house.

• 1773: Boston Tea Party Rebellion; coffee overtakes tea as the most popular drink in the USA.

• 1777: Missionaries spread coffee across Central and South Americas.

19TH CENTURY

• 1818: First coffee machine – the Percolator – invented by Mr Laurnes of Paris, France.

• 1822: First espresso machine invented by Mr Louis Bernard Rabant of France.

• Ludwig van Beethoven is said to brew his coffee with exactly 60 coffee beans.

• 1875: The Spanish take coffee trees to Guatemala to cultivate.

• 1888: Vincent van Gogh uses coffee motifs in his picture Cafe Terrace at Night.

20TH CENTURY

• 1901: First instant coffee developed by Japanese chemist Satori Kato.

• 1903: Decaf coffee invented by German merchant Ludwig Roselius.

• 1908: Filter coffee created by German housewife Melita Bentz.

• 1936: Kahlúa, the world’s largest-selling coffee liqueur, is launched in Mexico.

• 1938: Nestlé invent freeze-dried coffee in America to supply to soldiers.

• 1946: Archilles Gaggia perfects the first espresso machine using high pressure.

• 1960: First pump driven espresso machine produced by Faema.

• 1971: First Starbucks opens in Seattle, Washington.

• 1982: The Specialty Coffee Association (SCA) of America is founded.

• 1988: The Vodka Espresso (Espresso Martini) is created by Dick Bradsell in London, England.

• 1988: Fairtrade coffee from Mexico hits shelves in the Netherlands.

21ST CENTURY

• Daily consumption of coffee worldwide reaches 1,600 million cups per day.