Let me have men about me that
are fat:
Sleek-headed men, and such as sleep o' nights:
Yond' Cassius has a lean and hungry look;
He thinks too much: such men are dangerous.
SHAKESPEARE: Julius
Caesar, act i, sc.
2.
INTRODUCTION
"THE
FAT AND THE THIN," or, to use the French title, "Le Ventre
de Paris," is a story of life in and around those vast Central
Markets which form a distinctive feature of modern Paris. Even the
reader who has never crossed the Channel must have heard of the
Parisian Halles,
for much has been written about them, not only in English books on
the French metropolis, but also in English newspapers, magazines, and
reviews; so that few, I fancy, will commence the perusal of the
present volume without having, at all events, some knowledge of its
subject matter.The
Paris markets form such a world of their own, and teem at certain
hours of the day and night with such exuberance of life, that it was
only natural they should attract the attention of a novelist like M.
Zola, who, to use his own words, delights "in any subject in
which vast masses of people can be shown in motion." Mr. Sherard
tells us[*] that the idea of "Le Ventre de Paris" first
occurred to M. Zola in 1872, when he used continually to take his
friend Paul Alexis for a ramble through the Halles. I have in my
possession, however, an article written by M. Zola some five or six
years before that time, and in this one can already detect the germ
of the present work; just as the motif of another of M. Zola's
novels, "La Joie de Vivre," can be traced to a short story
written for a Russian review.[*]
Emile Zola: a Biographical and Critical Study,
by Robert Harborough Sherard, pp. 103, 104. London, Chatto &
Windus, 1893.Similar
instances are frequently to be found in the writings of English as
well as French novelists, and are, of course, easily explained. A
young man unknown to fame, and unable to procure the publication of a
long novel, often contents himself with embodying some particular
idea in a short sketch or story, which finds its way into one or
another periodical, where it lies buried and forgotten by
everybody—excepting its author. Time goes by, however, the writer
achieves some measure of success, and one day it occurs to him to
elaborate and perfect that old idea of his, only a faint
apercu of which,
for lack of opportunity, he had been able to give in the past. With a
little research, no doubt, an interesting essay might be written on
these literary resuscitations; but if one except certain novelists
who are so deficient in ideas that they continue writing and
rewriting the same story throughout their lives, it will, I think, be
generally found that the revivals in question are due to some such
reason as that given above.It
should be mentioned that the article of M. Zola's young days to which
I have referred is not one on market life in particular, but one on
violets. It contains, however, a vigorous, if brief, picture of the
Halles in the small hours of the morning, and is instinct with that
realistic descriptive power of which M. Zola has since given so many
proofs. We hear the rumbling and clattering of the market carts, we
see the piles of red meat, the baskets of silvery fish, the mountains
of vegetables, green and white; in a few paragraphs the whole market
world passes in kaleidoscopic fashion before our eyes by the pale,
dancing light of the gas lamps and the lanterns. Several years after
the paper I speak of was published, when M. Zola began to issue "Le
Ventre de Paris," M. Tournachon, better known as Nadar, the
aeronaut and photographer, rushed into print to proclaim that the
realistic novelist had simply pilfered his ideas from an account of
the Halles which he (Tournachon) had but lately written. M. Zola, as
is so often his wont, scorned to reply to this charge of plagiarism;
but, had he chosen, he could have promptly settled the matter by
producing his own forgotten article.At
the risk of passing for a literary ghoul, I propose to exhume some
portion of the paper in question, as, so far as translation can
avail, it will show how M. Zola wrote and what he thought in 1867.
After the description of the markets to which I have alluded, there
comes the following passage:—I
was gazing at the preparations for the great daily orgy of Paris when
I espied a throng of people bustling suspiciously in a corner. A few
lanterns threw a yellow light upon this crowd. Children, women, and
men with outstretched hands were fumbling in dark piles which
extended along the footway. I thought that those piles must be
remnants of meat sold for a trifling price, and that all those
wretched people were rushing upon them to feed. I drew near, and
discovered my mistake. The heaps were not heaps of meat, but heaps of
violets. All the flowery poesy of the streets of Paris lay there, on
that muddy pavement, amidst mountains of food. The gardeners of the
suburbs had brought their sweet-scented harvests to the markets and
were disposing of them to the hawkers. From the rough fingers of
their peasant growers the violets were passing to the dirty hands of
those who would cry them in the streets. At winter time it is between
four and six o'clock in the morning that the flowers of Paris are
thus sold at the Halles. Whilst the city sleeps and its butchers are
getting all ready for its daily attack of indigestion, a trade in
poetry is plied in dark, dank corners. When the sun rises the bright
red meat will be displayed in trim, carefully dressed joints, and the
violets, mounted on bits of osier, will gleam softly within their
elegant collars of green leaves. But when they arrive, in the dark
night, the bullocks, already ripped open, discharge black blood, and
the trodden flowers lie prone upon the footways. . . . I noticed just
in front of me one large bunch which had slipped off a neighbouring
mound and was almost bathing in the gutter. I picked it up.
Underneath, it was soiled with mud; the greasy, fetid sewer water had
left black stains upon the flowers. And then, gazing at these
exquisite daughters of our gardens and our woods, astray amidst all
the filth of the city, I began to ponder. On what woman's bosom would
those wretched flowerets open and bloom? Some hawker would dip them
in a pail of water, and of all the bitter odours of the Paris mud
they would retain but a slight pungency, which would remain mingled
with their own sweet perfume. The water would remove their stains,
they would pale somewhat, and become a joy both for the smell and for
the sight. Nevertheless, in the depths of each corolla there would
still remain some particle of mud suggestive of impurity. And I asked
myself how much love and passion was represented by all those heaps
of flowers shivering in the bleak wind. To how many loving ones, and
how many indifferent ones, and how many egotistical ones, would all
those thousands and thousands of violets go! In a few hours' time
they would be scattered to the four corners of Paris, and for a
paltry copper the passers-by would purchase a glimpse and a whiff of
springtide in the muddy streets.Imperfect
as the rendering may be, I think that the above passage will show
that M. Zola was already possessed of a large amount of his
acknowledged realistic power at the early date I have mentioned. I
should also have liked to quote a rather amusing story of a priggish
Philistine who ate violets with oil and vinegar, strongly peppered,
but considerations of space forbid; so I will pass to another
passage, which is of more interest and importance. Both French and
English critics have often contended that although M. Zola is a
married man, he knows very little of women, as there has virtually
never been any
feminine romance in
his life. There are those who are aware of the contrary, but whose
tongues are stayed by considerations of delicacy and respect. Still,
as the passage I am now about to reproduce is signed and acknowledged
as fact by M. Zola himself, I see no harm in slightly raising the
veil from a long-past episode in the master's life:—The
light was rising, and as I stood there before that footway
transformed into a bed of flowers my strange night-fancies gave place
to recollections at once sweet and sad. I thought of my last
excursion to Fontenay-aux-Roses, with the loved one, the good fairy
of my twentieth year. Springtime was budding into birth, the tender
foliage gleamed in the pale April sunshine. The little pathway
skirting the hill was bordered by large fields of violets. As one
passed along, a strong perfume seemed to penetrate one and make one
languid. She
was leaning on my arm, faint with love from the sweet odour of the
flowers. A whiteness hovered over the country-side, little insects
buzzed in the sunshine, deep silence fell from the heavens, and so
low was the sound of our kisses that not a bird in all the hedges
showed sign of fear. At a turn of the path we perceived some old bent
women, who with dry, withered hands were hurriedly gathering violets
and throwing them into large baskets. She who was with me glanced
longingly at the flowers, and I called one of the women. "You
want some violets?" said she. "How much? A pound?"God
of Heaven! She sold her flowers by the pound! We fled in deep
distress. It seemed as though the country-side had been transformed
into a huge grocer's shop. . . . Then we ascended to the woods of
Verrieres, and there, in the grass, under the soft, fresh foliage, we
found some tiny violets which seemed to be dreadfully afraid, and
contrived to hide themselves with all sorts of artful ruses. During
two long hours I scoured the grass and peered into every nook, and as
soon as ever I found a fresh violet I carried it to her. She bought
it of me, and the price that I exacted was a kiss. . . . And I
thought of all those things, of all that happiness, amidst the hubbub
of the markets of Paris, before those poor dead flowers whose
graveyard the footway had become. I remembered my good fairy, who is
now dead and gone, and the little bouquet of dry violets which I
still preserve in a drawer. When I returned home I counted their
withered stems: there were twenty of them, and over my lips there
passed the gentle warmth of my loved one's twenty kisses.And
now from violets I must, with a brutality akin to that which M. Zola
himself displays in some of his transitions, pass to very different
things, for some time back a well-known English poet and essayist
wrote of the present work that it was redolent of pork, onions, and
cheese. To one of his sensitive temperament, with a muse strictly
nourished on sugar and water, such gross edibles as pork and cheese
and onions were peculiarly offensive. That humble plant the onion,
employed to flavour wellnigh every savoury dish, can assuredly need
no defence; in most European countries, too, cheese has long been
known as the poor man's friend; whilst as for pork, apart from all
other considerations, I can claim for it a distinct place in English
literature. A greater essayist by far than the critic to whom I am
referring, a certain Mr. Charles Lamb, of the India House, has left
us an immortal page on the origin of roast pig and crackling. And,
when everything is considered, I should much like to know why novels
should be confined to the aspirations of the soul, and why they
should not also treat of the requirements of our physical nature?
From the days of antiquity we have all known what befell the members
when, guided by the brain, they were foolish enough to revolt against
the stomach. The latter plays a considerable part not only in each
individual organism, but also in the life of the world. Over and over
again—I could adduce a score of historical examples—it has
thwarted the mightiest designs of the human mind. We mortals are much
addicted to talking of our minds and our souls and treating our
bodies as mere dross. But I hold—it is a personal opinion—that in
the vast majority of cases the former are largely governed by the
last. I conceive, therefore, that a novel which takes our daily
sustenance as one of its themes has the best of all
raisons d'etre. A
foreign writer of far more consequence and ability than myself—Signor
Edmondo de Amicis—has proclaimed the present book to be "one
of the most original and happiest inventions of French genius,"
and I am strongly inclined to share his opinion.It
should be observed that the work does not merely treat of the
provisioning of a great city. That provisioning is its
scenario; but it
also embraces a powerful allegory, the prose song of "the
eternal battle between the lean of this world and the fat—a battle
in which, as the author shows, the latter always come off successful.
It is, too, in its way an allegory of the triumph of the fat
bourgeois, who lives well and beds softly, over the gaunt and Ishmael
artist—an allegory which M. Zola has more than once introduced into
his pages, another notable instance thereof being found in
'Germinal,' with the fat, well-fed Gregoires on the one hand, and the
starving Maheus on the other."From
this quotation from Mr. Sherard's pages it will be gathered that M.
Zola had a distinct social aim in writing this book. Wellnigh the
whole social question may, indeed, be summed up in the words "food
and comfort"; and in a series of novels like "Les
Rougon-Macquart," dealing firstly with different conditions and
grades of society, and, secondly, with the influence which the Second
Empire exercised on France, the present volume necessarily had its
place marked out from the very first.Mr.
Sherard has told us of all the labour which M. Zola expended on the
preparation of the work, of his multitudinous visits to the Paris
markets, his patient investigation of their organism, and his keen
artistic interest in their manifold phases of life. And bred as I was
in Paris, a partaker as I have been of her exultations and her woes
they have always had for me a strong attraction. My memory goes back
to the earlier years of their existence, and I can well remember many
of the old surroundings which have now disappeared. I can recollect
the last vestiges of the antique
piliers, built by
Francis I, facing the Rue de la Tonnellerie. Paul Niquet's, with its
"bowel-twisting brandy" and its crew of drunken ragpickers,
was certainly before my time; but I can readily recall Baratte's and
Bordier's and all the folly and prodigality which raged there; I
knew, too, several of the noted thieves' haunts which took the place
of Niquet's, and which one was careful never to enter without due
precaution. And then, when the German armies were beleaguering Paris,
and two millions of people were shut off from the world, I often
strolled to the Halles to view their strangely altered aspect. The
fish pavilion, of which M. Zola has so much to say, was bare and
deserted. The railway drays, laden with the comestible treasures of
the ocean, no longer thundered through the covered ways. At the most
one found an auction going on in one or another corner, and a few
Seine eels or gudgeons fetching wellnigh their weight in gold. Then,
in the butter and cheese pavilions, one could only procure some
nauseous melted fat, while in the meat department horse and mule and
donkey took the place of beef and veal and mutton. Mule and donkey
were very scarce, and commanded high prices, but both were of better
flavour than horse; mule, indeed, being quite a delicacy. I also well
remember a stall at which dog was sold, and, hunger knowing no law, I
once purchased, cooked, and ate a couple of canine cutlets which cost
me two francs apiece. The flesh was pinky and very tender, yet I
would not willingly make such a repast again. However, peace and
plenty at last came round once more, the Halles regained their
old-time aspect, and in the years which followed I more than once saw
the dawn rise slowly over the mounds of cabbages, carrots, leeks, and
pumpkins, even as M. Zola describes in the following pages. He has, I
think, depicted with remarkable accuracy and artistic skill the many
varying effects of colour that are produced as the climbing sun casts
its early beams on the giant larder and its masses of food—effects
of colour which, to quote a famous saying of the first Napoleon, show
that "the markets of Paris are the Louvre of the people" in
more senses than one.The
reader will bear in mind that the period dealt with by the author in
this work is that of 1857-60, when the new Halles Centrales were yet
young, and indeed not altogether complete. Still, although many old
landmarks have long since been swept away, the picture of life in all
essential particulars remained the same. Prior to 1860 the limits of
Paris were the so-called
boulevards exterieurs,
from which a girdle of suburbs, such as Montmartre, Belleville,
Passy, and Montrouge, extended to the fortifications; and the
population of the city was then only 1,400,000 souls. Some of the
figures which will be found scattered through M. Zola's work must
therefore be taken as applying entirely to the past.Nowadays
the amount of business transacted at the Halles has very largely
increased, in spite of the multiplication of district markets. Paris
seems to have an insatiable appetite, though, on the other hand, its
cuisine is fast becoming all simplicity. To my thinking, few more
remarkable changes have come over the Parisians of recent years than
this change of diet. One by one great restaurants, formerly renowned
for particular dishes and special wines, have been compelled through
lack of custom to close their doors; and this has not been caused so
much by inability to defray the cost of high feeding as by inability
to indulge in it with impunity in a physical sense. In fact, Paris
has become a city of impaired digestions, which nowadays seek the
simplicity without the heaviness of the old English cuisine; and,
should things continue in their present course, I fancy that
Parisians anxious for high feeding will ultimately have to cross over
to our side of the Channel.These
remarks, I trust, will not be considered out of place in an
introduction to a work which to no small extent treats of the
appetite of Paris. The reader will find that the characters portrayed
by M. Zola are all types of humble life, but I fail to see that their
circumstances should render them any the less interesting. A faithful
portrait of a shopkeeper, a workman, or a workgirl is artistically of
far more value than all the imaginary sketches of impossible dukes
and good and wicked baronets in which so many English novels abound.
Several of M. Zola's personages seem to me extremely lifelike—Gavard,
indeed, is a
chef-d'oeuvre of
portraiture: I have known many men like him; and no one who lived in
Paris under the Empire can deny the accuracy with which the author
has delineated his hero Florent, the dreamy and hapless revolutionary
caught in the toils of others. In those days, too, there was many
such a plot as M. Zola describes, instigated by agents like Logre and
Lebigre, and allowed to mature till the eve of an election or some
other important event which rendered its exposure desirable for the
purpose of influencing public opinion. In fact, in all that relates
to the so-called "conspiracy of the markets," M. Zola,
whilst changing time and place to suit the requirements of his story,
has simply followed historical lines. As for the Quenus, who play
such prominent parts in the narrative, the husband is a weakling with
no soul above his stewpans, whilst his wife, the beautiful Lisa, in
reality wears the breeches and rules the roast. The manner in which
she cures Quenu of his political proclivities, though savouring of
persuasiveness rather than violence, is worthy of the immortal Mrs.
Caudle: Douglas Jerrold might have signed a certain lecture which she
administers to her astounded helpmate. Of Pauline, the Quenus'
daughter, we see but little in the story, but she becomes the heroine
of another of M. Zola's novels, "La Joie de Vivre," and
instead of inheriting the egotism of her parents, develops a
passionate love and devotion for others. In a like way Claude
Lantier, Florent's artist friend and son of Gervaise of the
"Assommoir," figures more particularly in "L'Oeuvre,"
which tells how his painful struggle for fame resulted in madness and
suicide. With reference to the beautiful Norman and the other
fishwives and gossips scattered through the present volume, and those
genuine types of Parisian
gaminerie, Muche,
Marjolin, and Cadine, I may mention that I have frequently chastened
their language in deference to English susceptibilities, so that the
story, whilst retaining every essential feature, contains nothing to
which exception can reasonably be taken.E.
A. V.