Wine E-Book

Jane Parkinson

• Herausgeber: Ryland Peters & Small
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2019

Beschreibung

Former International Wine Communicator of the Year, Jane Parkinson, gives you the lowdown on wine and how to make the most of it. Wine offers an exciting look at the global scene with detailed information on all of your favourite grapes and styles. Jane makes sure that once you have read through this manifesto, you will know exactly how to pick the right wine every time. Over the last decade, the way we buy, serve and enjoy wine has changed drastically, here you will find everything you need in order to find your desired taste, from storage, glasses, temperature and equipment, to a detailed breakdown of each grape and style with a visual key. Whether red or white, Pinot Noir or Sauvignon Blanc, Wine will make sure you find your perfect match.

Leseprobe

Designers Paul Stradling, Manisha Patel and Emily Breen

Commissioning Editor Stephanie Milner

Production David Hearn

Picture Researcher Christina Borsi

Art Director Leslie Harrington

Editorial Director Julia Charles

Publisher Cindy Richards

Photographer Toby Scott

Photographer’s Assistant Benjamin Wisely

Prop Stylist Luis Peral

Food Stylist Rosie Reynolds

This abridged edition published in 2019

First published in 2014

by Ryland Peters & Small,

20—21 Jockey’s Fields,

London WC1R 4BW

and

341 E 116th St

New York NY 10029

www.rylandpeters.com

Text copyright © Jane Parkinson 2014, 2017, 2019

Design and commissioned photographs copyright © Ryland Peters & Small 2014, 2017, 2019 (see page 207 for other credits)

E-ISBN: 978-1-78879-128-1

ISBN: 978-1-78879-076-5

Printed and bound in China

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

The author’s moral rights have been asserted. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher.

A CIP record for this book is available from the British Library.

US Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data has been applied for.

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION

SETTING THE WINE SCENE

Label logic

RED

PINOT NOIR

SYRAH/SHIRAZ

Chilling red wine

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

MERLOT

MALBEC

Let’s talk tannin...

GRENACHE & FRIENDS

SPANISH REDS

ITALIAN REDS

FLAGSHIP REDS

WHITE

CHARDONNAY

SAUVIGNON BLANC

Organic, biodynamic, natural

CHENIN BLANC

SEMILLON

VIOGNIER

MUSCAT

RIESLING

PINOT GRIGIO/PINOT GRIS

ITALIAN WHITES

SPANISH WHITES

ROSÉ

FORTIFIED & SWEET

FORTIFIED

Sherry

SWEET

FIZZ

THE BAR

TEMPERATURE

WINE PROPS

GLASSWARE

Same wine, different glass

WINE STYLES & FOOD MATCHING

RED & ROSÉ

WHITE

FORTIFIED, SWEET & FIZZ

Party wines

RESOURCES

INDEX

PICTURE CREDITS

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

INTRODUCTION

Feeling thirsty but not sure what to drink? Then this is the book for you. I love being asked what wines people should try, it’s one of the favourite parts of my job. From my personal favourites to fashionable wines or the bottles that offer the best value, I hope I answer everyone’s questions (and more) here in this book, which is my go-to guide for those that are curious about wine and love all the flavours that come with it. With that in mind, I chat through all the topics in my kind of everyday language. This means there isn’t much jargon to be found, but when it does make the odd appearance, I promise an explanation quickly follows.

The way we buy, serve, enjoy and match wine has changed massively in the last couple of decades, partly because we’ve never been so spoilt for choice. And so, in this book, I introduce you to glorious grape varieties, some known and perhaps some lesser-known, but in each case I explain where they are grown, how the wine should taste and why, for example, it might be blended with another grape. Occasionally, I also namedrop a particularly good producer because I am also constantly asked for these recommendations too.

In The Bar, I take a closer look at serving wine, whether it’s the trends in glass shapes, nifty serving paraphernalia or serving temperatures. All of this might seem a bit old school to some people, but they can play a really important role in affecting how a wine will taste so if you want to make the most of your wine make sure you take a peek.

You’ll also see that this book is peppered with various ad hoc wine topics, the kind that come up often but no one ever seems to get a definitive answer to. They range from why it’s good to chill red wine to the difference between organic, biodynamic and natural wine, so I hope you find these topics useful along the way.

No matter where you are on your wine journey, if you’re interested in delving more into the world of wine, then this book should give you extra insight into what is happening all around us, and who is doing what, where, and hopefully, well.

Happy drinking.

SETTING THE WINE SCENE

Knowing the name of the grape inside a bottle has completely changed the face of wine and how we drink it. Before my time and possibly yours, too, wine names like Chablis, Bordeaux, Sancerre, Rioja and Chianti were flung about with such carefree ease it gave wine completely the wrong image. That was turned on its head about 25—30 years ago, largely by people in the southern hemisphere and North America; places we call the New World. These guys started to make serious wine and had the confidence to slap the grape variety boldly on the front of a bottle. This change to labelling wine opened the floodgates for wine appreciation. Wine became exciting, aspirational and easier to understand. Fast–track to today, and now there’s just as much (if not more) global interest in the names Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Tempranillo, or even Sangiovese, as there ever was in the Old World names of the regions in which these grape varieties were — and still are — made.

THE NEW OLD WORLD

It’s great news for us that countries like Italy, Spain, France and Portugal have raised their game in the face of stiff competition from New World winemakers. These countries are blessed with high–quality local grape varieties, each suited to its own special environment; and together with a general improvement in technology the world over, there’s an endless source of delicious European wines now at our fingertips. For more gorgeous European wines Flagship reds (see pages 76—81), Italian whites (see pages 134—137) and Spanish whites (see pages 138—143).

FRANCE

The tiny Jura region is now a haven of delicious characterful white wines made with local grapes Chardonnay and Savagnin with a nutty, salty flavour that’s gorgeously unique and moreish.

While the Jura is doing a great job with white wines it is also making hedonistically beautiful light, bright and sappy red wines from local grapes Pinot Noir, Trousseau and Poulsard.

ITALY

All across the north of the country, from Piedmont to Friuli, Italy is a melting pot of zingy and refreshing whites made from local grapes with personality and attitude, such as floral Arneis, zesty Friulano or the appley Ribolla Gialla.

The days of southern Italy churning out masses of bulk red wine are changing. Instead, carefully crafted, inky–dark, spicy reds are being made from local grapes, such as the dark and brooding Aglianico in Campania, or the meaty grape Negroamaro from Puglia, or the peppery Nerello Mascalese from Sicily.

SPAIN

Although Albariño is delicious and perfect with seafood, look out for crisp and fruity white wines made from Verdejo in Rueda, Godello in Valdeorras and the modern take on white Rioja, which is less oaky.

In north–west Spain, a local grape called Mencía has come of age in the region of Bierzo. It’s full of black fruits with a spicy flavour — as is another Spanish grape, Monastrell. Both are great alternatives if you’re stuck in a red Rioja rut.

PORTUGAL

Vinho Verde is more than just retro–cool; it makes some seriously delicious white wines. The Loureiro grape used here is floral while Alvarinho is richer, and these are the two grapes worth looking out for. The Douro Valley is also a haven for pretty, citrus–fresh white wines made from local grapes.

Speaking of the Douro Valley, it’s also making terrific red wines from the same grape varieties you’d find in the region’s most famous wine, Port. I’m talking about Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo). These table reds have a very pure blackberry character with lovely, dry spice flavours of cumin and cinnamon.

AUSTRIA

Blaufränkisch Say it: blauw-fran-kish

This local Austrian red grape varies from very light (in a Beaujolais style) to rich and spicy. I think it’s especially tasty when it’s lighter and quaffable.

THE NEW NEW WORLD

As the New World wine countries evolve, they’re branching out from the wines and grapes that initially made them famous. This evolution is happening because, as the regions age, the locals have a better understanding of their land’s potential with other grapes, plus they’re determined to prove to the world they can perfect more than just one style or grape!

AUSTRALIA

Australians are now using ‘other’ European grapes partly to boost their sophistication credentials. In warmer regions like McLaren Vale, you’ll find varieties such as Sicily’s Nero d’Avola and Spain’s Tempranillo, while the Adelaide Hills region makes Austria’s Grüner Veltliner well.

NEW ZEALAND

New Zealand is working hard to show it’s more than a one–trick (Sauvignon Blanc) or even two–trick (Pinot Noir) pony. With red wine, Syrah/Shiraz is the most exciting grape, especially in Waiheke Island and Hawke’s Bay. Meanwhile, many regions are making fantastic Chardonnay and Riesling.

CHINA

Let’s wait and see, but China continues its drive to be a wine force to be reckoned with. Grenache is playing its part — apparently lots is being planted. Watch this space.

USA (CALIFORNIA)

One of the most exciting and fast-changing wine scenes these days is California. In the cooler north of Sonoma, elegant cool climate wines, such as Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah, are gaining a serious reputation, especially from excellent smaller producers like Arnot-Roberts, but in truth there are gems popping up all over the place from Monterey to Santa Barbara.

SOUTH AFRICA

A collaborative force of young gun producers with skill and high standards has made South Africa a must-watch country for white and red wines these days. Initially coming out of the Swartland region but now spanning the country, these producers are making astonishing wines from Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Syrah, Pinot Noir and Cinsault.

Blends

Originally, New World wines traded on their easy-to-understand credentials. This included championing wines made from a single grape variety (varietal wines), which was proudly splashed across the wine bottle’s front label. This pushed grape varieties into the limelight, but no one, not even the New World guys, ever claimed these varietal wines were superior to blended wines, and yet the world started to think they were. Some of the most prized, expensive and serious wines in the world are actually blends, so don’t dismiss them.

Label logic

The labels on New World wine bottles lead with grape variety, and we love this easy way of telling us exactly what’s inside the bottle. In fact, it’s so popular that Old World countries have started tweaking their labelling laws to (sometimes) allow grape varieties on their labels as well.

France: Know your crus

‘Cru’ translates as ‘growth’ in English, and the quality categories of Grand and Premier Cru are used in the French wine regions of Burgundy and Alsace, but also in Champagne, albeit in a different way. Although each region has its own little quirks about what determines the level of cru, Grand Cru is always top dog, followed by Premier Cru. Eating out? On wine lists, you’ll commonly see Grand Cru shortened to ‘GC’, and Premier Cru shortened to ‘PC’ or ‘1er Cru’.

Bordeaux: classifications

One part of the Bordeaux region is called the Médoc, and this is where Cabernet Sauvignon reigns supreme. Sometimes, the Médoc is called ‘the Left Bank’, in relation to the rivers Gironde and Garonne. The Left Bank of Bordeaux has a châteaux hierarchy that was created in 1855, and it still exists today. The ‘1855 classification’, as it is known, ranks Bordeaux châteaux and there are five levels. At the pinnacle are the esteemed and pricey First Growths, with only five châteaux in this top tier. On Bordeaux’s Right Bank, Merlot reigns supreme, and this is where you find the village of St–Emilion, which also has its own classification system. The most prestigious of these is Premier Grand Cru Classé, which is sub–divided again into two tiers, A and B. Then comes Grand Cru Classé.

Italy: To riserva or non-riserva

‘Riserva’ usually indicates a producer’s higher–quality wine — a wine that has been aged for a longer period than non–riserva wines. It can also mean higher alcohol.

Germany: Name by name

Still plagued by the sweetness tag; if you want to know the style of German Riesling, look out for these labels:KABINETTSay it: ka-been-et Dry wineSPÄTLESESay it: shpate-lay-zer Dry or slightly sweet wineAUSLESESay it: owz-lay-zer Sweet–ish wineBEERENAUSLESE (BA)Say it: bear-ein-owz-lay-zer Sweet wineTROCKENBEERENAUSLESE (TBA)Say it: trok-en-bear-ein-owz-lay-zer Even sweeter wineEISWEINSay it: ice-vine Super–sweet wine

Spain: Rank your reserva

Spanish red wines are often labelled by reserva. Each indicates an ageing period, some of which is in oak:GRAN RESERVA Aged for a minimum of 5 yearsRESERVA RED WINES Aged for a minimum of 3 yearsRESERVA WHITE WINES Aged for a minimum of 2 years

Good label innovations

1. QR codes or those little tags you can rip off a bottle’s back label. Both of these help you to remember the name of a wine you’ve drunk while out and about.

2. The Riesling sweetness scale. Riesling continues to have an identity crisis because people are wary of it being too sweet. This label is a universal scale printed on the back of bottles.

RED

Reds are now as diverse as they are delicious. From cosy and comforting to beefy and spicy to delicate and fragrant, today’s red wine scene champions the full spectrum of styles available and not just the ones that shout the loudest with their fruit, spice or tannin, much of which is down to the choice of raw material – the grape.

PINOT NOIR

CHARACTERISTICS

earthy • elegant • fresh • hedonistic • juicy • perfumed • smooth • succulent

SMELLS

herbaceous • perfumed • smoky toasty

TASTES OF

beetroot/beet • cranberry • mushroom • plum pomegranate • raspberry • red • cherry • rhubarb • strawberry • truffle vanilla

The diva of wine grapes, Pinot Noir is fussy about where it’s grown, and that can push up its price. But when it’s happy and made well, it’s the ultimate in wine hedonism. Pinot Noir usually grows best in cooler climates and produces a pale liquid by red wine standards. It’s lovely when young and full of juicy strawberry and red cherry flavours, but it’s also delicious when older, tasting smooth and earthy.

Pinot Noir’s home is Burgundy, and winemakers around the world are mesmerized and inspired by the beautiful wine that Pinot Noir makes in this region. Producers everywhere, though, have to be careful not to slather the grape in too much oak or let the alcohol level creep too high because both can spoil this grape’s trademark delicacy. Some people refer to Pinot Noir simply as ‘Pinot’. You can do this, too, but tread carefully, as there are plenty of other grapes in the Pinot family, like Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc.

Pinot Noir is also a vital ingredient in some of the world’s best sparkling wines. The pulp of the grape (where the juice comes from) is quickly removed from the skins after harvest so the wine doesn’t take on any pink colour from the skins, unless you want a rosé. A fizz made entirely from Pinot Noir will often be given the name Blanc de Noirs, roughly translated as white wine made from black grapes. It also makes great pink fizz, and is done one of two ways. The first is to add some red Pinot Noir wine to white Champagne, the other is to let the skin of the grape stay in contact with the wine for enough time to let the colour seep into the wine. This is called saignée (bleeding).

REGIONS & FLAVOURS

HOME REGION BURGUNDY, FRANCE

Red Burgundy is made from Pinot Noir. That’s the easy bit. Napoleonic laws of heritance, based on inheritance by bloodline, have meant that growers’ vineyards have been hugely fragmented over the years. One small plot could be shared by 90 growers, all producing wines that are rare, and this contributes to their higher–than–average price. The most revered strip of vineyards in Burgundy is split in two. The southern half, Côte de Beaune, is more Chardonnay territory, but you can still find elegant Pinot Noirs there. The northern half, Côte de Nuits, is Pinot Noir country. The wines here are usually a bit richer than in the south, with a savoury, earthy character as well as plump fruit.

ITALY

Pinot Nero, as it is called locally, thrives in the cool Italian north, near the Alps. Especially so in Alto Adige, where it makes fresh wines with bright cherry flavours. It’s also made in Lombardy, where it is essential to the production of the sparkling wine Franciacorta (see pages 172—175).

Labelling red Burgundy

In descending order of prestige, red Burgundy (always made from Pinot Noir) is labelled: Grand Cru; Premier Cru; (The name of a village), for example Pommard; (The name of a group of villages), for example Côte de Nuits–Villages; Bourgogne.