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1001 Cycling Tips by Hannah Reynolds is a light-hearted and informative guide to all kinds of cycling. This is no standard instruction manual – it is much more useful than that. This is a huge collection of small tips to make a real difference to your cycling, whether you're into road cycling, mountain biking, have an ebike, gravel bike or commute to work on your bike – this book will take you through everything you need to know. The vast range of topics covered includes everything from choosing your bike, the essential kit and clothing you'll need and navigation to fitness, nutrition, bike maintenance at home and on the road, and travelling with your bike. Hannah's no-nonsense advice and vast knowledge base will ensure that you have the right tools to enjoy your cycling and achieve your goals, whether you want to race, climb huge mountains or enjoy days out on two wheels with the family.
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Hannah Reynolds © John Walsh
Hannah Reynolds is a writer and bike rider who has worked in the cycling industry for over 20 years. She loves racing and demonstrates that lack of talent is no barrier to participation, having competed in everything from downhill to road to 24-hour mountain biking with varying and limited degrees of success. Formerly fitness editor for Cycling Weekly and editor of Cycling Active magazine, she is now a freelance writer covering everything from human interest stories and cycling adventures to nerdy tech and fitness pieces. Hannah has co-written three cycling guidebooks: Fitter, Further, Faster; Get on Your Bike and France en Velo. Working as a guide for Saddle Skedaddle gets her out from behind her laptop and into the hills of the UK and Europe. Based in the Howgill Fells in Cumbria, she can often be found dragging a toddler in a bike trailer up ridiculously steep climbs because cycling changes as life changes – but it’s always there. www.hannahmreynolds.com
HANNAH REYNOLDS 1001 CYCLING TIPS
First published in 2021 by Vertebrate Publishing. This digital edition first published in 2021 by Vertebrate Publishing.
Vertebrate Publishing Omega Court, 352 Cemetery Road, Sheffield S11 8FT, United Kingdom.www.v-publishing.co.uk
Copyright © 2021 Hannah Reynolds and Vertebrate Publishing Ltd.
Hannah Reynolds has asserted her rights under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988 to be identified as author of this work.
A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. ISBN 978-1-83981-109-8 (Paperback) ISBN 978-1-83981-110-4 (Ebook)
All rights reserved. No part of this work covered by the copyright herein may be reproduced or used in any form or by any means – graphic, electronic, or mechanised, including photocopying, recording, taping, or information storage and retrieval systems – without the written permission of the publisher.
Front cover illustration © Julia Allum represented by www.meiklejohn.co.uk All photography individually credited.
Design by Nathan Ryder, production by Cameron Bonser and Jane Beagley, Vertebrate Publishing.
Every effort has been made to achieve accuracy of the information in this guidebook. The authors, publishers and copyright owners can take no responsibility for: loss or injury (including fatal) to persons; loss or damage to property or equipment; trespass, irresponsible behaviour or any other mishap that may be suffered as a result of following the advice offered in this guidebook.
Even though I have written all these tips down, I can’t take credit for the creation of more than a handful. These are all tips that have been passed on to me throughout my cycling life by people I have ridden with, talked cycling with or worked with. A mixture of club cyclists, amateur racers, old pros, new pros, physiologists, coaches, physiotherapists, bike guides and mechanics.
The cycling community is very generous with its advice. Just watch out, not all advice is good advice. There is a lot of received wisdom in cycling, and a fair amount of received nonsense too, that many of us like to follow as it is part of cycling culture. A good argument about sock length can kill at least an hour of a five-hour training ride.
If someone mentions following ‘the rules’ to you, ignore them, unless it directly relates to a race or event. No one can be disqualified from being a cyclist because their valves weren’t at six o’clock in a photo or they have hairy legs. No one with a bike can be disqualified from being a cyclist, full stop.
When I started cycling, I was lucky enough to be taken under the wing of some very knowledgeable and patient riders who helped me navigate my way around common beginner errors, but some things can only be learnt through practice and experience. I’ve had my fair share of avoidable mechanicals, navigational errors, embarrassing kit choices and etiquette faux pas. I’ve blown-up, bonked, been caught out by the weather and been dropped on more rides than I can remember! Hopefully these tips will offer a few shortcuts, or life hacks, so that my mistakes can save you from doing the same. I’ve almost certainly left out as many tips as I have included. I am sure there will be many that cause disagreement and there will be many alternative ways to arrive at the same solutions. I look forward to the debates! My most vital tip is to lean on the cycling community around you – it is a limitless source of friendship and advice.
Enjoy the ride!
Thank you to the many people who have given me tips and advice through the years. A special mention to my former colleagues at Cycling Weekly, Norwood Paragon cycling club and the late Keith Butler, and my Evans Cycles teammates of the past. Thank you to John for all the cycling adventures; if it weren’t for you, many of them wouldn’t have happened!
If you have any feedback or questions regarding this book, then please drop me a line:
I’m also on twitter as @HannahMReynolds
For writing and public speaking assignments please visit www.hannahmreynolds.com; for the joys of cycling in France, and more on my guidebook France en Velo, visit www.franceenvelo.cc
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Sarah Ross on the North Coast 500 in Scotland. © Stephen Ross
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Cycling through Shedden Clough, Lancashire, England. © Joolze Dymond
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‘Cycling isn’t a seasonal sport. You can ride all year round, provided that you have the right kit and the right attitude.’
Clowne Greenway, Derbyshire, England. © Rosie Edwards2
Gravel biking into the Peak District from Sheffield, England. © John Coefield
1. So, you want to be a cyclist? I could say something cheesy about cycling being a state of mind. But that would be nonsense. The only thing you need to be a cyclist is a bike.
2. When choosing a bike, the first thing to think about is not the bike, but you and your lifestyle.
3. Bike genres are getting increasingly niche and nuanced, and drilling down into the detail can be overwhelming, but it starts with identifying your needs.
4. Narrow down what you want to do with the bike, starting with the big questions. Visualise your bike ride – where are you and where are you going?
5. On-road or off-road? This sends you down two distinct paths (although hybrids and gravel bikes like to blur that boundary a bit).
6. Do you want to carry things on your bike? If you do, then it is time to explore bikes with racks or even cargo bikes.
7. If you are planning on riding off-road, how technical is the terrain you want to ride and how much do you enjoy technical challenges?
8. If you are planning to only ride on roads, are you after fast and light or convenience and comfort?
9. There is no such thing as a ‘do it all’ bike – every bike is better designed for some things than others. But you can get a bike that does most things OK. I’d put gravel bikes in this genre.
10. That said – there is nothing to stop you riding a heavy, full-suspension bike to the office; you will still get there fine, albeit a bit more slowly.
11. For some cyclists it is about the bike. They are the ones that say things like ‘N+1’, then won’t come out on your ride because they don’t have the right tyres for it.
12. Unless you know exactly what bike you want and the right size for you, head to a good local bike shop. Their advice is invaluable and could save you from an expensive mistake.
13. Second-hand bikes can often stretch your budget to a better model than you could afford to buy new. Just make sure you are buying from its genuine owner.
14. Wherever you buy your bike from, insist on a test ride; this can help you decide if it is really the right bike for you.
15. Shops often organise demo days where you can try multiple bikes from different brands. When heading to a demo day, try to keep as many things the same as when you normally ride, so you can home in on the details of the bike you are testing. Wear your own favourite riding kit and bring your own shoes and pedals if you use them.
16. Take some measurements from your current bike (if it’s one you are happy with) and ask the dealer for help setting up your demo bike, so it fits you properly.
17. If you are test riding a full-suspension bike, make sure that the set-up has been adjusted for your weight and riding style, as this will make a huge difference to how the bike feels.4
18. Don’t base your decision on something that can easily be changed, such as the stem length or the saddle.
19. You can swap your bike saddle for one that is wider, narrower, softer or harder to suit your personal preference.
20. Buying a bike needs careful weighing up of the options and objective testing to make sure you are making the right choice, but don’t forget a bike should be fun! Your new bike should put a grin on your face and make you excited to ride. You’ll know it’s the right bike when you don’t want to get off it!
21. Buy the bike.
22. Don’t wait until you perceive yourself to be fit enough or fast enough to buy the bike you want. There are no qualifications to getting a good bike. Buy it, ride it, enjoy it.
23. You never regret the bike you bought, only the bike you didn’t.
24. Before you leave with your new purchase, make sure you know how the brakes and gears work. Obvious, right? But you wouldn’t be the first person to be flummoxed by the twisty/flicky/tappy shifters on their new machine.
25. Before you ride your bike for the first time, make sure you know which is the front brake and which is the rear brake.
26. When you want to stop, squeeze your brakes on slowly and progressively. Watch out for your front brake, it’s super powerful. If you grab your front brake sharply, it can stop the bike very suddenly.
27. Here’s a really quick way to get a ballpark saddle height. With your bottom on the saddle and your hands on the handlebars in your normal riding position, place your heel on the pedal. The pedal needs to be at six o’clock, directly at the bottom of the pedal stroke. With your leg fully extended you should be sat square in the saddle, not leaning to the side, and your heel should be in firm contact with the pedal, not hovering above it. When the pedal is then placed in the correct position under the ball of your foot, it will allow for the correct bend in your knee.
28. If it’s been a while since you last cycled, have a play around on your bike before you head out on to the road or trail. To cycle safely you need to be confident riding with only one hand on the handlebars (for signalling) and be able to brake safely and quickly.
29. If you haven’t ridden for ages, it will come back quickly. You never forget. It is just like riding a bike!
30. Cadence is the speed you pedal, the number of pedal revolutions per minute (rpm). Fast pedalling (90–100rpm) is the speed most experienced road cyclists aim for, but 60rpm, one full pedal stroke per second, is about normal when you first start cycling.
31. Make sure you aren’t lazy about gear changing; shift as often as you need to maintain the same cadence throughout your ride (except when sprinting or on steep climbs).
32. When riding off-road, your cadence will be slightly lower and more variable, so you can handle the challenges of the terrain.5
The author with ‘Cyclista Emily’ – women’s cycling kit designer – in Mallorca. © John Walsh6
33. While there has been a lot of research into different pedalling cadences, one of the most interesting studies found that when the subjects were allowed to pedal the way they wanted to, instead of trying a cadence faster or slower than their preferred rate, they performed best. So, pedal the way you want to, and it will probably be right for you.*
34. Flats or clipped-in? It’s really your choice. Some styles of riding favour flats, but for most road, gravel or trail riding, clipless pedals are of benefit.
35. One of the first things to clear up about clipless pedals is why they are called clipless when you ‘clip-in’ to them. Bike pedals originally had toe clips and straps, but in 1984 a ski-bindings company called Look decided to apply the same technology to bike shoes, allowing cyclists to use a cleat on the sole of their shoes to ‘clip-in’ to the mechanism in their pedals. Toe clips and straps were made redundant, so the ‘clipless’ pedal was born.
36. Being clipped into your pedals will help you feel more at one with the bike. Your feet are less likely to slip off as you pedal or shift your weight around. You can also pedal more fluidly as your pedals and cranks become an extension of your body.
37. You might worry about what will happen if you can’t get your feet out in time when you stop or if you crash. Compared with the old-style toe clips, clipless pedals are safer. To release your shoe, it just requires a firm twist of your foot. If you were to crash, the pedals automatically release, making it much less likely that you will remain attached to your bike.
38. To avoid the classic sideways crash, remember to unclip your feet before you come to a stop.
39. If you are mountain biking and haven’t fully mastered the skill of bunny-hopping, being clipped in allows you to cheat a little bit in getting your wheels off the ground.
40. Don’t pedal through puddles on the road – you never know how deep they are or if they are concealing any hazards. Do pedal through puddles off-road, because riding around them leads to braiding or widening of the trail, which can lead to trail erosion and environmental damage.
41. Temperature regulation is all about layering and having a range of versatile clothes that you can add or remove easily, depending on the weather.
42. In winter, maintaining a comfortable temperature throughout your ride begins with insulating and protecting your chest and torso. Your core houses your vital organs – your body depends on keeping it a stable temperature. If your core gets cold, your body’s defence mechanism is to stop sending warm blood out to your limbs and reserve it for your vital organs. To keep your arms, legs, feet and hands feeling warm, you need to keep your core warm.
43. When it comes to keeping warm, it is wind chill more than getting wet that you need to watch out for. Whether your skin is damp from sweat or rain, add a cold wind and you are at risk of feeling your temperature plummet.
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Crossing the Miller’s Dale Viaduct, Monsal Trail, Derbyshire, England. © Dave Parry
44. When reading the weather forecast before a ride, don’t forget to check wind strength and direction. Some forecasts will give you a ‘feels like’ indicator which combines air temperature and wind strength.
45. When choosing your outfit, there are three factors to consider: the weather, the ride you are doing and the terrain. On slower rides and commutes, where you might be waiting at traffic lights and so on, you need to dress a little warmer. On road rides with your mates, thrashing each other up every hill, you might be able to skip the mid layer, but as soon as you stop you will cool down rapidly.
46. If you are mountain biking, you can get very warm climbing or pushing uphill, but feel a chill if you are waiting at the top or descending, so a spare mid layer in your pack is really handy.