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A collection of 20 rides featuring all of London's must-visit attractions. 'London is one of the world's most celebrated cities, and there's no better way to see some of the best the city has to offer than by bike. Cycle London has 20 unique routes designed to help you make the most out of this iconic city. Each ride is built around a theme, whether it's the best art galleries to see some incredible works, great markets to treat yourself to some eclectic purchases, routes that include some of the tastiest food, or rides covering many of the city's most famous and picturesque parks. There's even a ride that will take someone who only has 12 hours in the city to all the iconic attractions you will have seen in films and books. Every ride comes with a map to help you get your bearings, as well as links to detailed maps that can be downloaded to smartphones to make sure you know exactly where you're going when on the move. The routes can be adapted to suit your requirements, so if you're a keen culture vulture who wants to take in a good sample of some of the best museums in a day you can, but if you just fancy visiting just two you can pick up the route wherever you fancy. There are shorter rides for those who want to spend more time seeing the sites from the inside than the outside, as well as longer rides that mean the majority of your day will be spent taking in the city from a two-wheeled perspective. Also included are interesting asides, insider tips from the locals, and stories designed to help you make the most of your visit, as well as practical advice on what to expect from cycling on London's famous streets.
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CYCLELONDON
CYCLELONDON
20 ROUTES TO HELP YOU EXPERIENCETHE BEST THIS FAMOUS CITY HAS TO OFFER
DOMINIC BLISS
To my two daughters Daisy and Lola. They were both riding their bikes without stabilisers before their fifth birthdays. And they’re as happy on dirt as they are on tarmac.
Published in 2014 by Dog 'n' Bone Books
An imprint of Ryland Peters & Small Ltd
20–21 Jockey’s Fields 519 Broadway, 5th Floor
London WC1R 4BW New York, NY 10012
www.rylandpeters.com
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Text © Dominic Bliss 2014
Design and illustration © Dog 'n' Bone Books 2014
The author’s moral rights have been asserted. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher.
A CIP catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress and the British Library.
eISBN: 978 1 911026 33 4
ISBN: 978 1 909313 39 2
Printed in China
Editor: Caroline West
Designer: Paul Tilby
Map and motif llustration: Michael Hill
Cover illustration: Robert Merrett (see also p129)
Page border illustration: iStockphoto.com
Additional image credits: p1 123RF.com,
p2 Dreamstime.com, pp4–5 Shutterstock
For digital editions, visit www.cicobooks.com/apps.php
Contents
PART 1INTRODUCTION
London Cycling Etiquette
London’s Bike Shops
London’s Cycle Cafés
London Cycling Events
London’s Cycling Clubs
Bike Commuting
Off-Road Biking in London
London’s Cycle Couriers
Route Maps
PART 2 THE RIDES
1 Major Sights Ride
2 Great Parks Ride
3 Secret Gardens Ride
4 Family Ride
5 Royal Ride
6 Great Pubs Ride
7 Foodie Ride
8 Markets Ride
9 Shopping Ride
10 Music Ride
11 Sports Ride
12 Museums Ride
13 Art Galleries Ride
14 Science and Nature Ride
15 Architecture Ride
16 Blue Plaques Ride
17 Gothic Ride
18 Romantic Ride
19 Unusual Sights Ride
20 Out of Town Ride
Notes
Index
Acknowledgments
Introduction
London is buzzing to a cycling revolution right now. Wherever you look, pedals are being pushed and wheels are spinning. From City workers commuting on their hybrids to bearded hipsters on their single-speeds in east London, from Lycra-clad roadies in Richmond Park to grannies on their shoppers, from tourists on their Boris Bikes to kids on their BMXs and bike couriers in the West End… London is revolving to the sound of two wheels.
This is all proof that London is best discovered not by car or by bus or by tube—but by bicycle. No other form of transport gets you round the capital as efficiently, as ecologically, and with such a good view.
Whether you’re a lifelong Londoner or a new visitor, Cycle London will encourage you to discover some of this city’s most intriguing and most unmissable sights. Using this book, you can follow the specially designed bike tours of London. Are you an art or architecture fan? There are tours for you. Perhaps you love food and drink, in which case you’ll want to follow our great pubs and foodie rides. Need some retail therapy, but without the parking? Try the shopping ride. In town with your lover? Then opt for the romantic ride. Maybe you have your kids in tow, in which case you’ll want the family ride.
Whichever tours you choose, enjoy the freedom of London by bike.
London Cycling Etiquette
As with many of the world’s major cities, there is an antagonism in London between two-wheelers and four-wheelers. And every time a cyclist jumps a red light, or a car driver swerves in front of a biker, that antagonism increases. Fortunately for us cyclists, when it comes to angry drivers, a smile, a friendly wave, and clear signaling can defuse most situations.
The other big-city headache for London cyclists is bike theft, with thieves often targeting expensive machines and using heavy-duty cutting tools to get through locks. There are only two sure-fire ways to avoid being a victim: either never leave your bike unattended or ride a bike that’s utterly undesirable. If neither of these options are for you, just make sure you carry a high-quality lock or two and your bike will hopefully be OK.
What about the rules of the road? While it’s not my job to lecture you on the UK’s road laws (they’re all fairly obvious), some advice on London cycling etiquette can be very useful as you negotiate the capital’s roads. Here are some helpful tips:
* Once the lights turn green, try to set off fast from junctions and intersections in order to get ahead of motor vehicles behind you.
* Many junctions feature bicycle boxes (officially known as Advanced Stop Lines or ASLs), but since cars often edge into these, you may need to edge forward yourself, beyond the ASL, while you wait for the lights to change.
*Avoid major highways if you can. A large truck or lorry speeding past at high speed will scare witless even the most experienced cyclist.
* It gets dark very early in mid-winter in London, so wear bright clothing and use lights. In mid-December, the sun goes down as early as 3.50pm, but, on gloomy days, it appears to get dark even earlier than that.
* When passing parked cars, allow for a door’s width, if you can, in case a driver opens the car door. It happens a lot.
* London taxi cabs have an incredibly tight turning circle. Be prepared for them to execute a swift U-turn right in front of you at any moment.
* Some taxi drivers have a reputation for being anti-cyclist. If they spot you flouting traffic laws, expect very short shrift further down the road.
* There is one thing that annoys drivers even more than cyclists jumping red lights—and that’s if you clip their wing mirrors as you cycle through stationary traffic. Expect expletives.
* NEVER undertake or pass to the left of a large goods vehicle at a junction or intersection. The vast majority of cyclist fatalities on London roads (there are no official figures, but it’s estimated to be around 16 deaths a year) happen when cyclists are crushed by a lorry or truck on a left-hand turn.
London’s Bike Shops
They’ve been fixing bikes at Pearson Cycles for a very long time indeed—for over 150 years, in fact. Displayed proudly on the wall above the checkout in this south London shop is a certificate from Guinness World Records, attesting to the fact that Pearson Cycles is the oldest bicycle shop in the world.
First established in 1860, and a blacksmith’s for many years before that, the business is now run by the fifth generation of Pearsons—Guy and William—and has expanded to employ 11 full-time staff working across a six-room premises.
Currently riding the wave of a boom in road cycling, Pearson (based in Sutton, south London) has adapted many times over the years to accommodate the various trends in cycling culture. That is, as the manager Martin Anscombe explains, probably the main reason for the shop’s longevity. He also cites the shop’s huge catchment area and proximity to the biking Mecca of the Surrey Hills (Sutton is close to the border of Greater London with Surrey) as further factors.
There are hundreds of bike shops dotted across London. Some, like Pearson, offer an all-encompassing range of clothing, accessories, commuter bikes, mountain bikes, road bikes, and repairs thereof. Others resemble junk shops, staffed by bearded old men who wouldn’t be seen dead in Lycra. Below I have selected some of the more interesting shops in London. (Top tip: for the best service, visit bike shops when they are least busy—usually mid-morning on a weekday.)
Pearson Cycles
126 High Street, SM1 1LU;
www.pearsoncycles.co.uk
Condor Cycles
49–53 Gray’s Inn Road, WC1X 8PP;
www.condorcycles.com
The London Bicycle Workshop
170 Clerkenwell Road, EC1R 5DD;
www.londonbicycleworkshop.com
Cyclefit
11–13 Macklin Street, WC2B 5NH;
www.cyclefit.co.uk
Brixton Cycles
145 Stockwell Road, SW9 9TN;
www.brixtoncycles.co.uk
Bikefix
48 Lamb’s Conduit Street, WC1N 3LH;
www.bikefix.co.uk
Brick Lane Bikes
118 Bethnal Green Road, E2 6DG;
www.bricklanebikes.co.uk
Lock 7
129 Pritchard’s Road, E2 9AP;
www.lock-7.com
Micycle
47 Barnsbury Street, N1 1TP;
www.micycle.org.uk
Mosquito Bikes
123 Essex Road, N1 2SN;
www.mosquito-bikes.co.uk
Push Cycles
35c Newington Green, N16 9PR;
www.pushcycles.myshopify.com
Sargent & Co
74 Mountgrove Road, N5 2LT;
www.sargentandco.com
Kinoko Cycles
10 Golden Square, W1F 9JA;
www.kinokocycles.com
Velorution
88 Great Portland Street, W1W 7NS;
www.velorution.com
LONDON BIKE HIRE
Aside from the ubiquitous Boris Bikes (see page 14), there are several companies offering bike hire in the capital.
On Your Bike (www.onyourbike.com)
Blazing Saddles Bike Hire (www.blazingsaddlesbikehire.com)
The London Bicycle Tour Company (www.londonbicycle.com)
Cloud 9 Cycles (www.cloud9cycles.com)
Southbank Cycles (www.southbankcycles.com)
Chelsea Bikes (www.chelseabikes.co.uk)
Go Pedal! (www.gopedal.co.uk)
City Bike Service (www.citybikeservice.co.uk)
London Recumbents (www.londonrecumbents.com)
London’s Cycle Cafés
London’s cycle café scene is growing fast. Normally offering a bike shop, bike repairs, and great coffee and snacks while you wait, they are places where cyclists can indulge their two favorite passions: getting caffeine hits and lusting over bike parts.
At one end of the scale, you’ve got your cheap and cheerful cycle “caffs,” the haunts of bike couriers and aged touring cyclists with their woolen jerseys and trouser clips. At the other end of the scale, you have your allsinging, upmarket, barista cafés, home to bearded, fixed-wheel hipsters and Lycra-clad roadies.
Then, on a level all of its own, you’ve got the very expensive and über-cool Rapha Cycle Club—surely the Savoy Hotel of cycle cafés (see below). This place really takes the biscotti. As well as offering perhaps the strongest espresso this side of Rome, and an interior bike rack to park your steed while you drink one, it beams through live bike races to TV screens, stocks cool bike magazines, and sells Rapha’s very sexy, but eye-wateringly expensive, clobber. The Citroën van that doubles up as a changing room is a cute touch.
Here are some great cafés where you can sip ristretto and discuss the finer points of your drivetrain:
Rapha Cycle Club
85 Brewer Street, W1F 9ZN;
www.pages.rapha.cc/clubs/london
CycleLab & JuiceBar
18a Pitfield Street, N1 6EY;
www.cyclelabuk.wordpress.com
Lock 7
129 Pritchard’s Road, E2 9AP;
www.lock-7.com
Look Mum No Hands!
49 Old Street, EC1V 9HX;
www.lookmumnohands.com
Moka East
The View Tube, Marshgate Lane, E15 2PJ;
www.theviewtube.co.uk
Micycle
47 Barnsbury Street, N1 1TP;
www.micycle.org.uk
Full City Cycles
72 Leather Lane, EC1N 7TR;
www.fullcitycycles.co.uk
Cadence Performance
2a Anerley Hill, SE19 2AA;
www.cadenceperformance.com
Pearson Performance
232 Upper Richmond Road West, SW14 8AG;
www.pearsoncycles.co.uk
Peloton & Co
4 Market Street, E1 6DT;
www.pelotonco.cc
MOBILE MECHANICS
If your bike is suffering from a mechanical but you can’t get it to a bike shop, there is an alternative. Several companies across London offer mobile bike mechanic services: you describe your bike’s ailment and they will come to you and fix it. Thanks to cheaper overheads, it sometimes works out slightly less costly than a bike shop.
Ebba Merrington is director of one such operation called Vélo City Cycling. In peak season he does around 50 call-outs a month, and business is growing year on year. Often he’s required to replace a chain or a cassette, or carry out a full bike service. He once even had to replace seven broken spokes on a wheelchair. According to Ebba, convenience is the main benefit that mobile bike mechanics offer, since customers don’t have to transport their broken-down bikes all the way to a bike shop.
Here is a list of mobile bike mechanics in London:
Vélo City Cycling (www.velocitycycling.co.uk)
Maxycle (www.maxycle.co.uk)
Mobile Cycle Service (www.mobilecycleservice.co.uk)
Cycledelik (www.cycledelik.com)
MobeOne (www.mobeone.org)
Cogs Mobile Cycle Repairs (www.cogscyclerepairs.co.uk)
Rob’s Bikes (www.london.robsbikes.co.uk)
London Cycling Events
After work on the last Friday of every month, thousands of cyclists meet up by the River Thames, beneath Waterloo Bridge, and embark on a mass bike ride called Critical Mass. There’s no set route—it’s up to whoever happens to be at the front of the pack to choose where to go—but with so many riders all pedaling in the same direction, there’s a certain freedom that you would never normally experience on London’s busy roads. Forced to stop and let the bikes pass through because of their sheer number, many motorists (especially taxi drivers) become enraged. Critical Mass regulars (it was first established in 1994) claim that they’re not engaging in a demonstration, although the carnival spirit and obvious camaraderie gives the impression that participants are enjoying owning the road for a change. It’s great fun.
Here are some other mass bike rides regularly staged in, or from, the capital:
* The London to Brighton bike ride (tinyurl.com/7p25l4c) has been going for decades. Staged during the summer, it sends riders 54 miles (87km) from the capital to the sea.
* In a similar vein is the Dunwich Dynamo (southwarkcyclists.org.uk/introducing-dunwich-dynamo), an annual summer through-the-night ride from London Fields 120 miles (193km) to Dunwich on the Suffolk Coast.
* For a shorter distance, but also in midsummer, try Midsummer Madness, a ride from Greenwich to Primrose Hill during the summer solstice.
* The Tweed Run (www.tweedrun.com) sees cyclists on retro bikes, wearing vintage cycling gear and a lot of tweed, joining up for a jaunt across town.
* If you’d rather avoid the city traffic, there’s the annual Nightrider event (www.nightrider.org.uk), a 60-mile (100-km) ride past London’s iconic landmarks, run through the night when the traffic is at its calmest.
* Prudential RideLondon (www.prudentialridelondon.co.uk) is a two-day festival of cycling in August, featuring fun rides, a 100-mile (160-km) road ride, and races for serious bikers and professionals.
* To get competitive, try the London Nocturne (www.londonnocture.com), an annual race meeting in June at Smithfield Market for cyclo-cross, folding bikes, penny farthings, and various other unusual rides.
* Another event well worth attending is The London Bike Show (www.thelondonbikeshow.co.uk)