Homeopathy for Plants - 5th revised and expanded edition 2021 E-Book

Christiane Maute

• Herausgeber: Narayana
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2021

Seitenzahl: 234

Beschreibung

New: removable dosage table The publication of Homeopathy for Plants heralded the start of a truly green revolution. The book has sold over 76.000 copies and been translated into many different languages. It’s a handy guide to the most common plant diseases, pests and types of damage with information on how to treat your plants with homeopathy. Christiane Maute® is one of the pioneers who has been using homeopathy on ornamental and edible plants for many years. Whether leaf spot on roses, brown rot on tomatoes, fire blight on fruit trees, aphids, leaf curl, cancer, mildew, monilia fruit rot, snail and slug damage, black spot or just poor growth – Ms Maute explains the tried-and-tested remedies for the most common diseases. Clear and precise instructions are also given for the layperson to treat plants for the effects of frost, hail, damage, wounds following pruning of trees or bushes, heat damage and the effects of repotting. Most diseases are illustrated with pictures, making it easy for you to recognise the disease and quickly find the correct remedy. The recommendations on dosage and application have been revised and are very clearly described with a handy removable table. A compact materia medica of the remedies rounds off the book. The numerous real-life examples added for this comprehensively updated edition demonstrate that homeopathy for plants has now come of age. The chapter on houseplants covers the homeopathic treatment of typical problems such as fungal infestation, temperature damage or waterlogging. A great guidebook specially for amateur gardeners which will surely convince even those unfamiliar with homeopathy to give it a go! Sets of Remedy Preparations Mentioned in the Book by Christiane Maute "Treating plants with homeopathy requires time and patience, but it is well worth it, as indicated by its effects: aphids literally fall from the leaves. After just a few hours there were only a few aphids remaining." - from Demeter Rundbrief, April, 2011 "It is often said that one must believe in Homeopathy for it to work. As plants cannot do that, there must be something real at work here." - from the article 'Globuli für den Garten', Country, April 2011

Leseprobe

Christiane Maute®

Homeopathy for Plants

A practical guide for house, balcony and garden plants

5th revised edition of this classic Extensively revised with the help of Cornelia Maute

Translated by Heather Ferlicchias & Aidan Constable

Contents

1 The basics

1.1 How it all began

Injured plants

Diseased plants

1.2 The principles of homeopathy – in brief

Remedy proving and the law of similars

Energised remedies, or the law of potentisation

1.3 Homeopathic compass for your garden

Choosing the right remedy

How to proceed

Dosage and administration of C potencies

Remedy given – what next?

Dosage and application in special cases

Storing homeopathic preparations

Preventive treatment

1.4 Repotting houseplants step by step

2 Pests and damage

2.1 Effects of the decline in the bee population

2.2 Insects

Ants

Aphids

Box tree moth

Black vine weevil

Colorado potato beetle

Scarlet lily beetle

Scale insects

Butterfly and moth caterpillars

Owlet moth larvae

Diamondback moth

Caterpillars (cabbage whites)

Leek moth

Spider mites

Whitefly

Mealybugs

2.3 Slugs

3 Pathogens and diseases

3.1 Fungal diseases

Pear rust

Blight (rust disease)

Boxwood blight

Leaf curl

Cancer

Mildew

Powdery mildew

Downy mildew

Monilia fruit rot and Monilia tip burn

Black spot

Tips for roses

Common leaf spot and leaf scorch

3.2 Bacterial diseases

Leaf spot

Fire blight on fruit trees

3.3 Viral diseases

4 Treating special signs of disease

4.1 Externally visible symptoms

Excessive growth

Weakness

Leaf discolouration

Deformity

Weak root growth

Stunted growth

4.2 Climatic damage

Frost, frost damage, frostbite

Hail

Cold, cold damage

Mobile communications

Waterlogging

Rain, constant

Sea air, too much salt in air and soil

Direct exposure to sun, sunburn

Intense sunshine

Contamination with acids

Injuries and consequences of stress

Heat damage

4.3 Damage incurred during cultivation

Lacerations (pruning trees and bushes)

Repotting

Contamination with chemical pesticides

Injuries

Neglected plants

4.4 Special measures to promote tomato growth

5 Houseplants

5.1 Homeopathic treatment

Dosage and application of C potencies

Dosage and application of X potencies

5.2 Pests

5.3 Diseases of houseplants

5.4 Temperature damage

5.5 Water supply

Waterlogging

Drying out / heating air

Neglect

6 Practical tips

6.1 Treatment examples for spring

Pruning trees and bushes

Frost and frost damage

Fortifying and strengthening plants

Warmth and heat damage / sunburn

Rain, long-lasting

sheep wool

6.2 Treatment examples for cancer in woody plants

6.3 Reports and cases of treatment

Potatoes

Lettuce

Tomatoes

Hibiscus

Lawn

Kohlrabi

Raspberries

Broom

Palms

Japanese pagoda tree

Raps

Cherry laurel

Almond tree

Vegetable growing

Winegrowing

Fruit growing: apples

6.4 For owners of ponds and aquariums and plant lovers who like to experiment

7 Remedy descriptions (Materia medica)

7.1 Homeopathic remedies for your garden

7.2 Remedies for special circumstances

Appendix

I Table of modalities

II Practical example

III Basic homeopathic remedy kits for your garden

IV Template for your own treatments

V Bibliography

VI Supplies and forum

VII List of illustrations

VIII Repertory

IX List of abbreviations

X Index

About the Author

About the Co-Author

Imprint

Acknowledgements

When I first hit upon the idea of treating my plants with homeopathy, the thought slowly grew in my mind that I should write down my experiences so far. I couldn’t have done it alone. That’s why I would like to take this opportunity to thank my husband from the bottom of my heart; he is always incredibly helpful and patient, and I am constantly amazed by his forbearance. He observes and interprets plant diseases when I haven’t a clue, which in turn helps me choose the right remedy. Now he has retired, he can pursue his hobby, gardening, as much as he wants. It’s also a daily motivation for him to learn even more.

I would also like to thank my children. I often try their patience to its utmost when I start pontificating about homeopathy. I will try and do better, I promise.

During the last few years, however, these “trying” talks have fallen on fruitful ground with our daughter Cornelia – she has been seized with a fascination for plant homeopathy. So I am deeply grateful for her active support. With the preparations for this new edition, we realised that we are working well together, rapidly finding ourselves on the same wavelength. So now I am reassured by the comforting thought that the next generation will pick up the baton and continue this important work with plant homeopathy.

Thanks also to my friends, patients and colleagues who are willing to use homeopathy on their plants and give me feedback on whether or not a homeopathic remedy has helped.

Last but not least, I would like to give my warmest thanks to Narayana Verlag; I was delighted that my idea of writing a practical guide to the homeopathic treatment of plants was not dismissed as “nonsense”. The first edition appeared in English in 2012, and now we’re on the fifth edition. Narayana helped me realise my idea quickly and professionally, and the staff are both highly competent and wonderful to work with. We are all particularly proud that “Homeopathy for Plants” has now been translated into 12 languages.

Friedrichshafen, autumn 2020 Christiane Maute®

Foreword by Christiane Maute®

Samuel Hahnemann, the father of classical homeopathy, opened up a whole new line of thought for me. 200 years ago, he wrote: “Heal as gently and safely as possible”. I take this motto to heart every day. And I am grateful that my teachers taught me to heal in this way. They triggered immense curiosity in me.

Treating people with classical homeopathy is something which fascinates me every day of my life. It seems logical to use this treatment method on plants, as plants are living entities – they are just as much a part of creation as we are. However, logic isn’t always easy, and it took a while for me to understand that homeopathy can work just as well on plants as on people.

I’m a homeopath, but not a gardener – which is why I’m adding a word of encouragement for all future “homeopathic gardeners”. I have a private garden, and am neither a gardener nor a botanist. Fourty years ago, I could barely tell the difference between a young kohlrabi plant and a rose. As you can see, no one is born a master of his art. However, over time all that changed. Gardening is a pleasure for most people, including me (and does away with the need to traipse to the gym).

Samuel Hahnemann (1755–1843)

If you manage to heal your plants with the help of homeopathy, you will find it twice as enjoyable. You may not succeed overnight, but every time it will be a bit better – and it’s so exciting!

Another source of motivation for me is that homeopathic plant treatment clearly reduces the need for chemical pesticides and compounds – you may even be able to do away with them altogether. If we can put just a fraction of this into practice, we will be helping to protect our environment.

The reaction to this book has been overwhelming and the proverbial snowball has turned into an avalanche, a source of great joy to me as I certainly had not anticipated it. The doubters may now be convinced by the positive effect of homeopathy since plants can surely not become healthy again due to the “placebo effect”. With the correct remedy, plants that have been battered by weather, pests or disease can rapidly recover.

In the meantime, many amateur gardeners, professional growers, farmers and winegrowers use homeopathy on their plants, with unexpectedly successful results in many cases. Starting on page 151 we describe some of these success stories. Sometimes, however, it is more difficult to achieve the hoped-for improvement since homeopathic plant treatment is still a relatively new area and there is much still to learn.

This new edition of “Homeopathy for Plants” has been continually updated and improved based on our latest insights and experience. Those new to the treatment of plants can find a step-by-step guide to repotting. And there is a new chapter devoted specifically to houseplants. It would be wonderful if lots of people would take part in our research and give us feedback. Failures are also important and take us a step further. Many thanks in advance.

I hope you will all have fun with “homeopathic gardening” and wish you the greenest of green fingers!

Friedrichshafen, autumn 2020 Christiane Maute®

Foreword by Cornelia Maute for the Fifth edition

I have been familiar with classical homeopathy since I was a child. I have learnt how rapidly and deeply this method heals from treating my own family, including our pets.

My mother’s extra job as “plant homeopath” awakened my interest in these new and myriad possibilities of treating plants. I very quickly grasped that this would also become “my” vocation. So several years ago I plunged into this fascinating area of plant homeopathy. The fact that my mother Christiane is such an encouraging and patient teacher made it far easier for me to get to grips with this new subject.

Together with the members of our study group, including two master gardeners and a winegrower, I can continually broaden my knowledge. We discuss homeopathic remedies, their use for certain plant problems and the resulting changes. The fruitful contact with customers and the copious positive feedback and reports are my daily motivation.

Since the third edition of “Homeopathy for Plants” I have been working enthusiastically as co-author. A big thanks to everyone who has engaged with our book, thought about our ideas, sent us photos and feedback on treatments or made suggestions for improvement.

You can find more information and our consultancy services at: www.maute-pflanzenhomoeopathie.de

Brühl, Germany, autumn 2020 Cornelia Maute

1 The basics

1.1 How it all began

Injured plants

Diseased plants

1.2 The principles of homeopathy – in brief

Remedy proving and the law of similars

Energised remedies, or the law of potentisation

1.3 Homeopathic compass for your garden

Choosing the right remedy

How to proceed

Dosage and administration of C potencies

Remedy given – what next?

Dosage and application in special cases

Storing homeopathic preparations

Preventive treatment

1.4 Repotting houseplants step by step

1.1 How it all began

Until now, homeopathy has played only a very minor role in treating plant diseases and deterring pests: a few daring souls formerly tried out a thing or two, but without making any kind of breakthrough – and this is still the case today. The experimenters were mainly winegrowers who were fed up with the amount of chemicals they had to spray on their vines. One newspaper article, for example, reported on a winegrower in South Tyrol who treated his vines with nothing but single classical homeopathic remedies and plant-based compounds, and was producing first-rate wines for top prices as a result. The wine grower naturally lost some of his vines to diseases, despite using homeopathy – but the same would have happened even if he had been using conventional pesticides.

In this guide, I make every effort to describe the use of homeopathic remedies in the garden as clearly and simply as possible. Below I describe how I started out by treating a damaged plant with Arnica – this motivated me to try out more. We have been using classical homeopathy in our garden ever since. We naturally also use proven, non-toxic “household remedies” and strengthen our plants with plant-based compounds such as comfrey, nettle, marigold and sage fertiliser or horsetail mash. We are constantly learning new things and are still at the beginning as regards homeopathic plant treatment. One of my main hopes is that our beautiful world will perhaps manage with far fewer chemical pesticides in future. This will be kinder to both the environment and our bank balances.

Fig. 1.1: Ms Maute with a delphinium

Injured plants

I first used classical homeopathy in my garden about eleven years ago on a beautiful, brilliant blue delphinium. I had bought this magnificent specimen at the weekly market. Unfortunately I dropped the plant while taking it out of the pot – the main stalk snapped, and the rest of the plant was only attached by a few fibres. I planted it anyway. As I’m curious by nature, I wanted to find out whether the homeopathic remedy for shock, blows or falls – Arnica 200C – would also help the blue delphinium. So I mixed a few globules (tiny pellets) of Arnica 200C in a glass of water, vigorously stirred this solution into 10 litres of water using a wooden spoon and used it to water the unfortunate plant. Next day, I was amazed to find that the delphinium was standing upright. The damaged area still looked slightly brown, but the plant was blooming again. So: coincidence or not? I forgot the incident and didn’t use homeopathy in my garden again for some time – whether from thoughtlessness or because I wasn’t sure whether or not the plant had recovered by itself.

The second “Arnica miracle” took place in my sister’s garden. During a violent storm, the crown of a blackcurrant tree broke off completely and was found lying on the ground about five metres away from the trunk. The blackcurrant tree was simply loaded with nearly ripe fruit. My sister watered the sorry-looking trunk and the damaged area with Arnica 200C, placed the crown of the tree back on the trunk and “bandaged” the crown and trunk with bast – that was all the support she used. She then watered the crown, the trunk and the surrounding soil with Arnica 200C once again. Shortly afterwards, the fruit was ready for harvest. One year later, she removed the bast bandage. The trunk and the crown had fused, although the damaged area was somewhat constricted. The tree still bears remarkable fruit, and the damaged area has now healed completely – no traces of the damage can be seen. My sister’s neighbours admire the blackcurrant tree every year. This year too, it was simply loaded with blossom.

Fig. 1.2: Arnica montana

Diseased plants

Our beautiful cherry tree on the terrace, which my father had grafted from exquisite heart and white heart cherries, was another specimen which benefited from homeopathic plant treatment. The leaves on our tree suddenly started looking odd. Neither my husband nor I knew why, and we didn’t pay these “strange” leaves much attention – after all, we would still be able to harvest enough cherries. Even so, every day we watched in concern as the leaves dried and fell off the tree as if it were autumn. My husband thought it looked like some kind of “fungal infection”, and I decided to treat it with Thuja 200C. I watered the trunk and the soil with the Thuja mixture. We repeated this procedure one week later. The tree recovered quickly; it was still losing dry leaves, but it started putting forth healthy green leaves in their place. Shortly afterwards, I received a phone call from an acquaintance: she wanted to know what I had done with my cherry tree: she’d paid our neighbours a visit and seen our tree from their house. It was probably the only cherry tree anywhere near Lake Constance which still had a full crown of green foliage; all the others were suffering from monilia tip drought. Only then did we look more closely at our surroundings and notice that the other cherry trees weren’t looking good at all.

Fig. 1.3: Ripe cherries

The concept of homeopathic plant treatment gradually began to spread. I was no longer the only person using homeopathy in my little garden; friends and patients also started treating their plants with great joy and good results. One day, one of our “sceptical” friends showed me his enormous, 1.5 m lantana bush which was absolutely crawling with spider mites. His gardener had advised him to burn it immediately, as they were supposedly impossible to get rid of and sure to infect other plants. Our friend announced, “If you can get rid of those little beasts with your weird pellets, I’ll start believing in what you’re doing.” At that moment, I didn’t really know what remedy could help the plant. I decided to think stereotypically: head lice in humans can be treated very successfully with high-potency Psorinum or Staphisagria. I consequently gave the plant Psorinum 10M, 6 globules dissolved in 150 ml water and distributed between two 20 l watering cans. The procedure was repeated one week later. I was very nervous, because I didn’t know which organism this treatment was going to affect, the plant or the spider mites – would they develop into invincible “monster mites” thanks to my treatment? Or would the “pellets” perhaps not work at all? Thankfully, nature is clever – the plant flourished magnificently and put forth healthy growth – without mites.

Converting disbelievers is not easy – our friend still dismisses the weird pellets as “esoteric stuff” and believes that the plant is sure to have recovered by itself.

1.2 The principles of homeopathy – in brief

Remedy proving and the law of similars

When we treat a sick person with homeopathy, the name of the disease or the medical diagnosis made when taking the case history is initially only of secondary importance. We start by concentrating on the patient’s symptoms. We try to find out

• what is causing his symptoms

• how his symptoms manifest themselves, where they are located, and

• what makes his symptoms better or worse.

The patient’s character is no less important: for example, is the patient introverted or extroverted? Does he have specific phobias or patterns of behaviour? Does he like or dislike certain foods, and does he feel worse in certain types of weather? We also ask searching questions about the illnesses he and his relatives have had in the past in order to get information about genetic predispositions. All this information gives the homeopath an insight into the right remedy for the patient.

The remedy the patient receives for his symptoms causes very similar symptoms in healthy people if taken over a period of time.

Note:

If healthy people take the remedy, it causes exactly the same symptoms as those which it heals in a sick person.

Example: If a healthy person takes low-potency (3X, 4X, 6X) Belladonna (= deadly nightshade) for a couple of days, he will react with severe headaches, painful, burning eyes, strong photosensitivity, high fever with steaming sweat, a tomato-red face, severe chills and possibly delirium – these are all signs of remedy proving. Let’s imagine that a child is brought to our practice with exactly the same symptoms. If we give him Belladonna, this will not make him sicker, but cure him quickly and reliably.

This is Samuel Hahnemann’s “law of similars”: “like cures like”. Samuel Hahnemann knew all about the natural laws. Some indigenous tribes still follow the same principles: the aboriginal and pygmy peoples, for example, fight bush fires by deliberately lighting another fire in opposition. The “law of similars” is consequently a mathematic principle: minus plus minus equals plus.

Energised remedies, or the law of potentisation

The correct preparation of the selected remedy is equally important. In homeopathy, this involves dilution and rhythmic succussion of the original substance after dissolving it in alcohol or triturating it with lactose. This “dynamic process” transforms the matter of the remedy’s original substance into a “higher form”, a vibrational pattern bearing the information from the remedy.

If we choose the right remedy, this “higher form” matches our “vital energy” like the right key in the right lock. And strangely enough, the more it is diluted and dynamised, the stronger its effect. In such cases, we are dealing with “high potencies” ( see Digression).

Fig. 1.4: Deadly nightshade (Belladonna)

DIGRESSION

Choosing the “right” potency is an art in itself, and at this point too much explanation would merely lead to confusion. That’s why I will try to restrict myself to what you as a gardener need to know.

• The X potencies (X1 – X23) are so-called low potencies which still contain matter; i.e. they still contain traces of the original substance and are used, for example, act like a fertiliser (à tomato growth, chpt. 4.4). Their duration of action is shorter and so the dose is generally repeated each day until there are signs of improvement, when treatment can be stopped. You need a larger number of globules for treatment with D potencies than with high potencies.

• The C potencies (30C, 200C and higher, chpt. 1.3) high potencies and have a longer period of action than a homeopathic remedy in the D potency. Due to the greater level of dilution and succussion between the individual potency levels, high potencies no longer contain any molecular traces or material residues. Whenever planting seeds or replanting, we look for the most suitable homeopathic remedy, in a C potency. Good results are seen with fungal, bacterial and viral disease as well as with pests. Thanks to their longer period of action, these high potencies obviously require less work, water and money. Many remedies should not be repeated more than three times a year, such as Silicea 200 C – a single dose in March or April is often sufficient here.

People who take a sceptical view of the high potencies say that you might just as well throw a lump of sugar into the ocean; high potencies have the same effect – i.e. none at all. If you throw a sugar lump into the ocean, you’re hardly going to be able to prove that it had any effect. So why and how do these homeopathic “zeros” work? Is it just imagination, are they just placebos? Plants don’t react to placebos at all, but they clearly show whether or not a remedy is helping them. Plants don’t “interpret” any improvement or degeneration of their condition, as people often subjectively do. If we give the plant the right remedy, it’s easy to see objectively whether or not it is helping.

Fig. 1.5: Homeopathic remedies

I have observed again and again that plants react very positively to high potencies (30C, 200C, 1M, 10M and CM) – their recovery is often gratifyingly quick. In this garden guide, I use the X potencies as fertilisers, but otherwise I mainly use the high potencies 30C – 200C and in a few cases even CM.

1.3 Homeopathic compass for your garden

As when treating people, when treating plants it is important to find out what might be causing the disease and what the modalities are (what makes the plant’s condition better or worse). In this guide, I have only included “Made worse by” and “Result of” in the table of modalities (pp. 192-193). If the plant improves, e.g. by changing its location, the lighting, the temperature etc., you will obviously not need any homeopathic remedies.

Fig. 1.6: Filling in the table of modalities.

You should also take note of the symptoms of the disease. What triggered them? Perhaps long periods of rain, drought, cold, dryness, infestation with insects? These causes often hold the key to choosing the right remedy. Once we have found the cause, treating the plant is easy.

However, we are often unable to find the causes. Unspecific plant diseases are consequently much more difficult to treat. We try to “interpret” the symptoms shown by the diseased plant. Could it have a common, typical plant disease, is the location poor, is it suffering from a nutrient deficiency, have I cared for it wrongly, or could it be something else altogether? Here too, the table of modalities (pp. 192-193) will help you choose the right remedy. Good powers of observation and good knowledge of the remedies will help us find the right one. And – doing this is fun. Not least because the plant shows very quickly whether the remedy is helping. If the remedy is doing its job, you will not have to treat the plant as often in the future, as it will become distinctly more healthy and robust.

Choosing the right remedy

I have put together a few tools in the appendix to help you choose the right remedy. Use the table of modalities (pp. 192-193) to narrow down what may be causing your plant’s disease.

The modalities describe the circumstances in which a symptom gets better or worse. This book naturally only lists the factors which make the disease worse.

You should make several copies of the table of modalities before starting the treatment so that you can make entries as relevant. You will also need a coloured pencil or text marker to make the relevant marks. A ruler will stop your lines from running into one another. How to proceed:

• Inspect your diseased plant closely. Could its current condition be the result of frost, heat or hail? Is it a fungal or other disease? Is the plant infested with pests? Find out what the problem is.

• “Repertorisation”: Determine the possible causes with the help of the list (pp. 192-193).

– Use a coloured pencil to enter the relevant crosses.

– With the help of your ruler, check (vertically) which remedy has the most coloured crosses. If you have entered two, three or even more crosses next to a certain remedy, this remedy is probably the most effective cure for your plant.

– Make a note of this remedy (or possibly remedies). Read up on each remedy in the descriptions (chpt. 7) and decide which corresponds most closely to your plant’s problem. Homeopaths call this process repertorisation.

• In chapters 2 and 3, you will find that each plant disease can be cured with one of several remedies. Using the table of modalities (pp. 192-193) for repertorisation will help you choose the best remedy for your plant.

• The remedy descriptions (chpt. 7) will show how and when each remedy can be used. This section can be used as part of your own repertorisation process.

How to proceed

• Only use a single remedy. Please do not mix several remedies together. Maybe in future I will in exceptional cases recommend the mixing of two remedies for large farms and nurseries to minimize the time and effort required for application. The simultaneous use of several remedies must be carefully considered and should only be undertaken by an experienced homeopath. The danger is that not all homeopathic remedies “agree” with one another and instead neutralise one another (= antidoting). So please do not conduct your own “experiments”.

• Use spoons and stirring instruments made from only plastic, porcelain or wood. Metal can disturb the action of the remedy. Plastic watering cans are therefore better than metal. After every application, clean the watering can by rinsing it thoroughly with fresh water.

• Simply watering with a watering can has proved more effective than spraying with a plant sprayer.

• Water the entire plant, including leaves and root area. For trees, apply to the trunk and the area of ground below the tree canopy.

• If possible apply the remedy on a bright, dry morning or towards evening. The leaves should be able to dry out quickly. During sunny and hot days, only water the roots since otherwise the leaves may be burnt by the sun.

• Avoid getting the remedy mixture on your skin; otherwise you might react with a remedy proving (chpt. 1.2), which is not dangerous but nor is it especially pleasant. But don’t worry if you were somewhat careless – the remedy proving is over in a short time. Therefore, keep children and pets away until the foliage has dried.

Note:

• You will find a list of the most frequently used homeopathic remedies for each disease.

• In other cases, use the table of modalities on page 192 − 193 to help you choose a remedy which fits the symptoms.

To help you practice finding a remedy, there is a practical example on p. 194.

Dosage and administration of C potencies

There are various ways of preparing the remedy mixture (figs. 1.7b, 1.7c):

• For volumes of water up to 10 litres: put the globules straight into the plastic watering can and completely dissolve them by thoroughly stirring with a wooden stick.

• For larger volumes of water (20-30 litres): completely dissolve the globules in a screwtop glass (such as a jam jar), screw the lid on firmly and shake well.

Fig. 1.7a: Keeping track of infestations.

• For 20 litres of water, divide the mixture into two halves. Add half the mixture to one 10-litre can full of water and mix well with a wooden stick or a plastic spoon. Do the same with the second half of the mixture.

•