Hunting E-Book

Chris McNab

• Herausgeber: Amber Books Ltd
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Serie: SAS and Elite Forces Guide
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2013

Seitenzahl: 244

Beschreibung

With the aid of superb line artworks, the Elite Forces Handbook: Hunting demonstrates the core skills involved in being a self-reliant hunter. From tracking large game to shooting wild pheasant, this book is the essential guide to finding, killing and surviving off animals in the wild. The book offers useful tips on a vast array of topics, including laying traps, building your own weapons, deciphering tracks, skinning and butchering your kill, cooking meat and building smokehouses. It also describes various shooting techniques, as well as covering topics such as selecting firearms, choosing the right ammunition and gun maintenance. With more than 300 easy-to-follow artworks and handy pull-out lists of key information, the Elite Forces Handbook: Hunting is the definitive pocket guide for huntsmen of all levels. When nature’s all you have, you need to know how to use it to survive.

Leseprobe

SAS AND ELITE FORCES GUIDE

HUNTING

ESSENTIAL HUNTING AND OUTDOOR SURVIVAL SKILLS FROM THE WORLD’S ELITE FORCES

CHRIS MCNAB

This digital edition first published in 2014

Published by

Amber Books Ltd

74–77 White Lion Street

London N1 9PF

United Kingdom

Website: www.amberbooks.co.uk

Appstore: itunes.com/apps/amberbooksltd

Facebook: www.facebook.com/amberbooks

Twitter: @amberbooks

Copyright © 2014 Amber Books Ltd

ISBN: 978-1-909160-74-3

PICTURE CREDITS

Illustrations: Tony Randell (© Amber Books Ltd)

All rights reserved. With the exception of quoting brief passages for the purpose of review no part of this publication may be reproduced without prior written permission from the publisher. The information in this book is true and complete to the best of our knowledge. All recommendations are made without any guarantee on the part of the author or publisher, who also disclaim any liability incurred in connection with the use of this data or specific details.

DISCLAIMER

www.amberbooks.co.uk

CONTENTS

Introduction

1. Weapons

2. Tracking and Hides

3. Traps and Snares

4. Hunting with Dogs

5. Hunting Techniques: Birds

6. Hunting Techniques: Land Animals

7. Butchering, Smoking and Preparing Food

Appendices: Survival Foods

INTRODUCTION

Hunting means many different things to many different people. For some it’s about spending time in nature, observing wildlife as much as hunting it. For others, it’s about testing their skills in tracking and stalking. In some cases, however, hunting can be a matter of physical survival.

There are many misconceptions about hunting in the mind of the general public. Partly these misconceptions are spread by the clash between the pro- and anti-hunting lobbies, in arguments where misinformation thrives alongside passionate emotions (on both sides). There are also generalizations about the practice of hunting. Those who have not tried the activity, for example, often have the idea that the advantage of firearms always stacks in favour of the hunter, and that the animal is largely helpless prey.

Anyone who has ventured into the field with a gun knows that this last viewpoint is frequently well short of reality. When the author first started hunting in his early 20s (relatively late compared to many young hunters), he was stunned at just how perceptive and wily wild animals could be. It quickly became apparent that these were not the gregarious creatures of the town or city, but wary animals with superb senses, used to being on the lookout for mortal threats. Walk across a farmyard with a stick, and the crows and pigeons would look down on you with studied interest. Try to do the same thing with a gun and the birds would be nowhere to be seen. Hours might be spent studying promising rabbiting territory, but the outcome of the day might be nothing more than aching limbs from a long and arduous walk.

The fact is that wild creatures have sensory abilities that far surpass our own meagre powers of sight, smell and hearing. Stand upwind of a deer, for example, and within seconds the animal’s head will twitch up, sniffing the air, before it quickly moves away into more concealing terrain. Hunting, therefore, is a true competition, in which modern firearms only partly iron out the tremendous natural advantages the prey possesses at the outset.

For this reason alone, if you are going to practise hunting, always respect your prey. Yet even more than that, you should honour your kills for the very fact that you take a creature’s life to put food on your table. In the author’s view, ethical hunting is paramount if legislation isn’t to kill off the pastime. I believe that there are only three reasons to kill an animal: 1) for food; 2) for legitimate pest control; and 3) to put a creature out of its suffering. Under no circumstances do I believe it is acceptable to kill an animal for mere entertainment, simply to watch it die. Such an attitude reflects badly on all hunters as well as on the individual concerned.

Therefore, hunters need to be ethical on many levels. We should only take what the habitat or species can sustain, so as not to disturb the fundamental natural balance. We should conserve as much as we hunt, obeying the laws about protecting the countryside and helping wildlife to thrive. From a legal standpoint, we should also conform to all national, state and regional legislation on hunting, even if we think it unwarranted. Only by holding our hunting to high standards will it bear the pressure of scrutiny from those who oppose it.

Winter Conditions

Many of the principles employed by military snipers can be adapted or utilized in hunting. This sniper has camouflaged his rifle by draping a white piece of fabric over the barrel, which also has the effect of protecting the weapon from the winter conditions.

High-powered Rifles

A soldier prepares to take a shot with a high-powered sniper rifle. In both sniping and hunting, long-range shooting is an extremely exacting challenge, requiring excellent physical control and a detailed understanding of the principles of ballistics.

Safe Hunting

This book is about the principles, practice and weapons of hunting. Not only does it bring in the best of civilian thinking on the subject, it also incorporates military advice about hunting and surviving in the wild. The military perspective can be an illuminating one. Soldiers are not only hunters (of other soldiers), but when the situation is reversed, they can also be the hunted. This makes them a unique breed, highly aware of their surroundings and issues such as camouflage and concealment, all of which are applicable to animal hunting. Military survival training has a further relevance to the hunter, who might find himself in potentially dangerous landscapes under adverse weather conditions.

The military also trains its soldiers in the safe handling of firearms (safe, that is, unless you are the enemy). Here we must be emphatic about the issue of safety in hunting. Every year, in every country, hunters are killed through careless mistakes, either their own or those of others. Modern firearms and hunting bows are extremely powerful weapons, and a moment’s lapse in safety procedures can have terrible consequences. Therefore, the following points of safety need to be established at the outset:

Carry Gear

When out on a hunting expedition in the wilderness, military-style packs can be an excellent option for carrying essential supplies and ammunition. Pack the frequent-use items, such as waterproofs and snacks, in the top sections and pockets of the packs.

• Always treat a firearm as if it is loaded – never point the muzzle at anything you are not prepared to shoot.

• When hunting in groups, be aware of others at all times, especially if you are swinging your gun to shoot moving prey. Leave a broad margin of error between the point at which you take the shot and other people in the vicinity.

• Make sure when shooting at prey that the bullet has a safe, proximate backdrop in case you miss or the bullet overpenetrates. Bullets can fly for hundreds of metres if they are not stopped quickly, endangering distant people and wildlife.

• Know how to handle your firearm, inside and out. This not only includes the correct, safe operating method, but also knowing how to strip and clean the gun. Always remember: a well-maintained weapon is a safer weapon.

• If you have had to put a gun down on the floor, check that the muzzle is clear of obstructions before firing it again.

• Take special care in handling a firearm when climbing over fences, gates, tree trunks and rough terrain. Be aware of muzzle direction at all times, and if the obstacle can’t be crossed easily make the gun safe (by breaking the barrel of a shotgun or opening the bolt of a rifle, for example) before attempting to do so.

• Make sure that you have the correct ammunition for your firearm. Don’t mix ammunition types in the same bag or pocket.

Modern Ghillie Suit

A ghillie suit turns a sniper, and a hunter, into a shapeless mass that is not readily identifiable as a human being. This is pointless if the rifle is not camouflaged, however; a bush armed with a rifle will soon be recognized for what it really is.

By following such rules without exception, you can ensure that the hunting experience stays both safe and satisfying.

Modern Hunting

Modern hunters can take advantage of a huge range of accessories. The challenge of moving a deer carcass is made far more manageable by an off-road hunting buggy; and some of these vehicles even have amphibious capabilities.

1

The weapons used for hunting are extraordinarily diverse. They range from the most primitive devices, such as slingshots and bows, through to modern hunting rifles with sophisticated optical sights.

Weapons

In hunting, the most important considerations are to choose the right weapon for your intended prey, to know how to use that weapon fluently and maintain it in good condition. Selecting the right weapon for hunting can be a complicated process, not least because different types of weapon are suited to different types of prey. To take an obvious example, a .22 airgun would serve as a useful hunting weapon for small game up to the size of a rabbit, depending upon the model and the sight options. Use the same weapon against a fox, however, and the likely result is a wounded animal running off into the wilderness. Take on a bear with an air rifle and you run the risk of being killed by a creature that has received nothing more than an irritating localized skin wound. Conversely, a .338 Win Mag rifle will comfortably bring down a large deer or bear if the shot placement is accurate, but it will obliterate many smaller game, rendering them useless for eating.

Remember that in hunting your objective is not simply to kill an animal cleanly, but also to kill it cleanly and leave it in a fit state for consumption. The author remembers early forays into the field rabbiting with a 12-gauge shotgun. While the gun did indeed prove fit for the job, some sobering close-range shots resulted in little more than a bloody mess rather than a tasty meal. The lesson learnt by many hunters is that not only should you choose the right weapon for the job, but you should also become familiar with the performance characteristics of that weapon across its range spectrum, and adjust your hunting technique accordingly.

Steady Shot

A monopod – purpose-designed or improvised – can provide a useful frontal support for a rifle when taking a standing shot. Ensure the monopod is set on firm, non-slip ground.

Basic Hunting Weapons

Most of us identify hunting weapons with firearms, and indeed sporting guns will form a large part of the focus of this chapter. Yet there are many other types of weapon that can be used in hunting (depending on local or national restrictions) that are far less advanced but which can still do a respectable job of bringing down prey. Some of these can even be constructed with basic tools and pressed into service in a survival situation.

For small birds and game up to the size of rabbits, squirrels and similar mammals, a slingshot or catapult (as it is more commonly known in the UK) is one convenient and near noiseless hunting weapon. A basic catapult can be bought from a fishing or hunting supplier, and the cheapest models will be within almost everyone’s budget. Mass-produced slingshots are light in weight, feature resilient plastic handles and have efficient rubber thrust bands with exceptional elasticity. Using the correct ammunition (either small, round stones or purpose-designed BB pellets), even the most basic slingshot will have a practical range of 10–20m (32–65ft). However, the more powerful variants feature wrist supports, stabilizers (to ensure a consistent and stable grip), sights (ranging from simple open ‘iron’ sights through to optical and even laser scopes) and a draw distance from the front grip hand to the opposite side of the chest.

Slings

A slingshot can, with practice, hit and kill suitable prey at distances of 30m (100ft) and more. Choose varieties fitted with thrust bands made from surgical tubing, as this type of band is the most reliable and powerful. Steel ball ammunition is available in a variety of calibres, ranging from 6.4mm (0.25in) for very small birds and animals, right up to 12.7mm (0.5in) for rabbits, squirrels, etc. Smaller ammunition will have a higher initial launch velocity, but will slow more quickly as it meets air resistance, whereas the heavier ammunition will fly further and truer. A good mid-weight, multi-purpose ball size is 9.7mm (0.38in).

Legal Hunting

Many countries and local governments enforce strict restrictions on what weapons can be used for hunting animals, particularly larger ones such as deer, elk and bear. Often, these restrictions relate to calibre and muzzle velocity, ensuring that the weapon has enough power to deliver a clean kill against a sizeable creature. You need to comply with these restrictions to the letter, as contraventions could result in your firearms being confiscated or even criminal charges being filed against you. You might also be required to obtain licences for hunting. You should also check that your ammunition type is authorized. For example, in the UK it is illegal to hunt wildfowl with lead shot – only steel shot is accepted. Law enforcement or relevant government agencies will usually provide you with documentation concerning all hunting restrictions, so read it through carefully before heading out into the field.

Note that you can make a simple slingshot yourself using a forked branch (hazel wood is ideal for this component) and an elastic material, fitted with a pouch in the centre to take the projectile. You can use regular clothing elastic for the thrust band, although this tends to deliver limited power and quickly loses its elasticity when overstretched. As mentioned it is far better to use a piece of surgical rubber tubing, if available, or the rubber from a tyre inner tube. Whatever device you have, practise regularly with it, increasing your accurate range steadily and getting used to judging the rise and fall of the ball in flight.

Slingshot

The slingshot is a classic and very ancient hunting weapon. Select small, smooth stones about 2–3cm (0.8–1.1in) across as ammunition.

Catapult

This modern catapult features a sight (the two graduated prongs extending inwards from the catapult arms) and stabilizers to balance the weapon in the hand.

Bow and Arrow

At the more advanced end of tension-powered weaponry is the bow and arrow. It is worth remembering that the bow and arrow was mankind’s premier hunting weapon for thousands of years, as well as a weapon of war, and is to be respected as such. Indeed, bow hunting remains a popular sport in North America and elsewhere, with the most capable bows able to kill prey as large as bear and elk.

Ergonomic Design

This advanced catapult utilizes a plastic frame in a innovative way. The aperture at the bottom is used to take a flashlight, making night hunting possible.

As with slingshots, professional man-made bows are your best weapons for hunting. When selecting a hunting bow, there are two primary decisions to be made. The first is whether you opt for a short bow or a long bow. A short bow is generally regarded as being under 1.65m (5ft 5in) in length, although more realistically they are about 0.9m (3ft) long. The advantage of a short bow is its portability and its short draw length, making it compact to lug about the field and quick to use on a target of opportunity. Moreover, the dimensions mean that a short bow is convenient to use from confined spaces, such as a hide. The disadvantages of the short bow can be a very heavy pull to get to full draw length, and a limited range – the shorter draw length means that there is less kinetic energy stored up in the bow before release.

US Army Tip: Simple Hunting Weapons

Rabbit stick – one of the simplest and most effective killing devices is a stout stick as long as your arm, from fingertip to shoulder, called a ‘rabbit stick’. You can throw it either overhand or sidearm and with considerable force. It is best thrown so that it flies sideways, increasing the chance of hitting the target. It is very effective against small game that stops and freezes as a defence.

Sling – you can make a sling by tying two pieces of cordage, each about 60cm (24in) long, at opposite ends of a palm-sized piece of leather or cloth. Place a rock in the cloth and wrap one cord around your middle finger and hold in your palm. Hold the other cord between your forefinger and thumb. To launch the rock, spin the sling several times in a circle and release the cord between your thumb and forefinger. Practice to gain proficiency. The sling is very effective against small game.

Long bows, by contrast, are more unwieldy (especially if you are intending to hunt in thick bush) but have better range (and accuracy over distance). They also have an easier draw. Note, however, that short bows are better for rapid shooting, as less time is spent drawing back the bowstring. The important point is that the right bow for you not only depends on your hunting requirements, but also on your physical limitations. For this reason, purchase a bow from a reputable bow supplier who will fit you with a bow ideally suited to your height, strength and body shape.

Once you have decided on a short bow or long bow, the next major choice is recurve or compound. The recurve bow shape is the traditional bow format – the tips of the bow curve away from the shooter and the bow is fitted with a single bowstring. Recurve bows can be both accurate and powerful, delivering ranges in excess of 100m (328ft), but the tension in the bow string and the physical strength required to draw the bow convincingly means that they require considerable practice to master. The compound bow, by contrast, is fitted with a system of pulleys to ease the draw weight, but retain maximum kinetic energy in the bow arms.

Compound Bow

Compound bows use a system of pulleys to assist the user in drawing the weapon. Consequently, they can have heavy, but manageable, pull weights.

Hence, a person might only be able to draw a 14kg (30lb) recurve bow, but using a compound bow, they would be able to draw twice that figure. Compound bows also have adjustable draw lengths, so the bow can be configured precisely to your body. On the downside, modern compound bows are sophisticated devices, meaning that they are more susceptible to damage or malfunction if knocked about in the field.

Bow Basics

Space here does not allow for comprehensive instruction on bow shooting technique – this should be gained under expert instruction and through regular practice. There are a few points that are generally useful, however. Always make sure that the arrow is fully nocked on the string before you release – listen for the click as the arrow slots onto the string. Adopt a stable position for shooting, with your feet shoulder-width apart and your weight evenly balanced. Use your shoulders, not just your arms, to draw the bow to its full extent, and fix your eyes on the target – the harder you stare at the target, the better your brain will be able to perform the natural calculations and adjustments required to hit it.

Release the string smoothly, avoiding the jerking motions that will knock you off aim. For compound bows, invest in a mechanical release device, which releases the string by pressing a button. Also make sure that you have good-quality arrows with a shaft length that is suited to your length of pull. A basic rule is to hold an arrow as if you are drawing a bow back to your cheek; if about 2.5cm (1in) of arrow sits ahead of your front hand, then the arrow is of the right length.

For hunting, there are various types of tip for your arrow. A basic spiked field point will suffice for small game, but for larger creatures you should opt for a broadhead with two or three razor-like blades to optimize blood loss in the animal. You can also buy specialized heads for fish hunting.

The bow and arrow has many advantages for hunting. It is silent, very effective over a few hundred metres (in proficient hands, of course) and its ammunition is re-usable (if retrieved). Yet the skill taken to master a bow in a hunting context can be considerable, and the dangers of an ineffective shot on a large animal are serious.

Traditional Bow

Although compound bows are visually striking, traditional self bows are not to be disregarded as hunting weapons. They are durable, simple to maintain, and can provide accurate killing power over ranges of up to 50m (164ft).

US Army Tip: Making a Bow and Arrow

A good bow is the result of many hours of work. You can construct a suitable short-term bow fairly easily. When it loses its spring or breaks, you can replace it. Select a hardwood stick about 1 m (3ft 3in) long that is free of knots or limbs. Carefully scrape the large end down until it has the same pull as the small end. Careful examination will show the natural curve of the stick. Always scrape from the side that faces you, or the bow will break the first time you pull it. Dead, dry wood is preferable to green wood. To increase the pull, lash a second bow to the first, front to front, forming an ‘X’ when viewed from the side. Attach the tips of the bows with cordage and only use a bowstring on one bow.

Select your arrows from the straightest dry sticks available. The arrows should be about half as long as the bow. Scrape each shaft smooth all around. You will probably have to straighten the shaft. You can bend an arrow straight by heating the shaft over hot coals, but do not allow it to scorch or burn. Hold the shaft straight until it cools. You can make arrowheads from bone, glass, metal or pieces of rock. You can also sharpen and fire-harden the end of the shaft. You must notch the ends of the arrows for the bowstring. Cut or file the notch; do not split it. Fletching (adding feathers to the notched end of an arrow) improves the its flight characteristics, but is not necessary on a field-expedient arrow.

Constructing a bow takes practice and a high-quality piece of wood. Suitable woods for making a bow include yew, red oak and osage. Select a piece of wood without any weak points, such as prominent knots. As in the diagram here, ensure that the bow string is fitted securely to the tips of the bow.

Crossbow

Crossbows require far less training than longbows for use as hunting weapons, and modern varieties can be fitted with optical sights.

Crossbow Hunting

Crossbows are an alternative to the bow and arrow, and are typically easier to master as they are held rather like a firearm and, once cocked, require little physical control to aim and release. Furthermore, modern crossbows are also available with optical sights, meaning that precise aim can be taken on the target animal. Like bows, they are available in recurve and compound varieties, with similar implications for draw weight. This is a significant issue, as a major downside of many crossbows is the intense physical strength required to load one. The compound crossbow design allows enormous draw weights of up to and even beyond 91kg (200lb), which can throw a bolt several hundred metres with powerful penetration. Made from composite materials, these weapons can be light and convenient, and there is no denying their power. (In medieval times, a crossbow bolt could be capable of penetrating a knight’s plate armour.)

Other Field Expedient Weapons

There are many other weapons you can improvise in the field, should you need to. Spears, for example, can be made for either throwing or stabbing, and can be as simple as a hardwood pole or branch sharpened at one end with the point hardened over a fire. A decent spear should be in the region of 1.8m (6ft) long, the length giving you some protective distance from your prey. You can make more durable and lethal points by partially splitting the shaft at one end and inserting a piece of sharp metal or bone in the split before lashing it securely into place. (Put lashings beneath the split as well, to prevent it working down the shaft.) When throwing a spear, put your full body weight into the cast and follow right through with the throwing arm, keeping your eyes focused hard on your target. When stabbing, lean into the thrust to supply weight and power, but not so far forward that you will fall if the spear snaps.

Spearheads

Here is a variety of improvised spearheads, made from materials such as metal, glass, thorns and hooks.

Throwing a Spear

The spear-thrower device used here imparts a greater leverage to the missile at point of release, dramatically increasing range and power.

Working on a very different principle, the bola is a traditional weapon used to kill flying birds or bring down running animals. Take three to six stones, each about 5cm (2in) in diameter, and wrap them in individual pouches of material. Then tie each pouch to a piece of string about 1m (3ft 3in) long. Gather all the ends of the strings and knot them together very firmly – this point is where you grip the missile to throw it. To launch, swing it above your head for several revolutions before throwing it at your prey – keeping your eyes locked on the target at all times will help to improve the accuracy of the throw. A good bola will wrap itself around the prey, while the stones will stun or kill it.

Improvised Bolas

Here, the bolas weights consist of stones bound up tightly in small cloth bags.

Knives

Stone knives have practical applications, not only for dispatching wounded animals but also for butchering them afterwards. The US Army’s official survival manual gives the following instructions for making a stone blade:

To make a stone knife, you will need a sharp-edged piece of stone, a chipping tool and a flaking tool. A chipping tool is light and blunt-edged, used to break off small pieces of stone. A flaking tool is a pointed tool used to break off thin, flattened pieces of stone. You can make a chipping tool from wood, bone or metal, and a flaking tool from bone, antler tines or soft iron. Start making the knife by roughing out the desired shape on your sharp piece of stone, using the chipping tool. Try to make the knife fairly thin. Then, using the flaking tool, press it against the edges. This action will cause flakes to come off the opposite side of the edge, leaving a razor sharp edge. Use the flaking tool along the entire length of the edge you need to sharpen. Eventually, you will have a very sharp cutting edge that you can use as a knife. Lash the blade to some type of hilt.

– FM 3-05.70, Survival

Hunting Knife

A good hunting knife is an essential field tool. Keep it clean and free from rust, and sharpen it regularly, particularly after cutting bone or wood.

A stone blade has natural limitations and is obviously inferior to a high-quality hunting knife. For small-game skinning and dispatch, a small but strong lock knife with a blade a few centimetres long can suffice. A good, general-purpose hunting knife, however, should have a blade up to 10cm (4in) long and a solid antler or hardwood grip that fits comfortably in the hand. A bevel edge makes the knife good for carving actions, and the non-cutting edge – the knife’s spine – should be wide enough to apply pressure with the hand.

Guns and Air Rifles

Firearms form the most important section of this chapter by virtue of the fact that centuries of weapons evolution have made them into the near-perfect hunting tools. A good firearm enables a person to drop even large prey at safe distances, often without the animal realizing that it is being hunted in the first place. As long as the firearm is firing the right ammunition, and the shot is put in the correct place, the animal should be killed efficiently and quickly.

Pre-charged air rifle

This pre-charged air rifle shows state-of-the-art design. The gas cylinder beneath the free-floating barrel provides consistent power delivery and a multi-shot magazine allows for shots at multiple targets. The stock is contoured for a precise fit to the cheek.

The question of the correct firearm and ammunition to choose for hunting is an enormous one, the subject of entire printed volumes and one that provokes much heated debate. For this reason, it is advised that anyone wanting to purchase a firearm for a specific hunting purpose should take expert advice from a good gun supplier, who will present the latest options and models available. Here we will walk through the essential categories of hunting firearm, noting the advantages and disadvantages of each, and giving some basic advice concerning weapon choice.

Airguns