Plant Combinations for an Abundant Garden E-Book

David Squire

• Herausgeber: Creative Homeowner
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2021

Seitenzahl: 456

Beschreibung

Packed with practical advice from leading cultivation specialists, this concise, easy-to-use book covers virtually every aspect of garden design and maintenance—from choosing a plot to selecting plants, maximizing space and building raised beds. Plant Combinations for an Abundant Garden shows how to create productive gardens by selecting the perfect plant combinations. A comprehensive plant directory provides handy information on summer-flowering annuals, herbaceous perennials, shrubs, small trees, climbers, water plants, bamboos, culinary herbs, fruits and vegetables. Practical advice and step-by-step instructions are included for building up layers of soil with mushroom compost, covering weeds with mulch, protecting plants with nets and plastic and much more. With more than 300 gorgeous color photographs, illustrations and diagrams, this book is a must for busy gardeners everywhere.

Leseprobe

Copyright © 2019 David Squire, Alan & Gill Bridgewater, and Creative Homeowner

This book may not be reproduced, either in part or in its entirety, in any form, by any means, without written permission from the publisher, with the exception of brief excerpts for purposes of radio, television, or published review. All rights, including the right of translation, are reserved. Note: Be sure to familiarize yourself with manufacturer’s instructions for tools, equipment, and materials before beginning a project. Although all possible measures have been taken to ensure the accuracy of the material presented, neither the author nor the publisher is liable in case of misinterpretation of directions, misapplication, or typographical error.

Creative Homeowner® is a registered trademark of New Design Originals Corporation.

Plant Combinations for an Abundant Garden is a collection of new and previously published material. Portions of this book have been reproduced from Home Gardener’s No-Dig Raised Bed Gardens (978-1-58011-748-7, 2016), Home Gardener’s Small Gardens (978-1-58011-746-3, 2016), and Home Gardener’s Garden Design & Planning (978-1-58011-729-6, 2016).

Plant Combinations for an Abundant Garden

Vice President–Content: Christopher Reggio

Editor: Laura Taylor

Designer: David Fisk

Indexer: Jay Kreider

Print ISBN 978-1-58011-827-9eISBN 978-1-60765-657-9

The Cataloging-in-Publication Data is on file with the Library of Congress.

We are always looking for talented authors. To submit an idea, please send a brief inquiry to [email protected].

Creative Homeowner®, www.creativehomeowner.com, is an imprint of New Design Originals Corporation and distributed exclusively in North America by Fox Chapel Publishing Company, Inc., 800-457-9112, 903 Square Street, Mount Joy, PA 17552, and in the United Kingdom by Grantham Book Service, Trent Road, Grantham, Lincolnshire, NG31 7XQ.

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Contents

Getting Started

Why Garden?

Enjoying Your Garden

Assessing Your Garden

Gathering Inspiration

Design Techniques

Choice of Infrastructure

Getting It Down on Paper

Planning the Work

Problems and Opportunities

Tools and Materials

Marking out the Site

Garden Construction

Walls, Fences, Hedges and Gates

Patios

Decking

Terraces and Verandas

Porches and Entrances

Paths and Steps

Lighting

Lawns and Edging

Borders

Pergolas, Arches and Trellises

Garden Buildings

Choosing the Style

Flower Gardens

Garden Designs

Traditional Cottage Kitchen Garden

Water Garden

Modern Mediterranean Garden

Formal English Garden

Secluded City Garden

Japanese Garden

Container Garden

Wild Gardens

Small Patio Garden

Balcony and Roof Gardens

Driveway Garden

Low-Maintenance Garden

Rock and Water Garden

Herb Garden

Food-Producing Garden

No-Dig Gardening

Benefits of the No-Dig Method

Raised-Bed Options

Buildings and Equipment

The Perfect Plot

Small No-Dig Garden

Raised-Bed Construction

Growing Medium

Manure

Bed and Plant Rotation

Catch Crops and Intercropping

Organic Protection

Sowing Seeds

Potting On and Planting Out

Extending the Growing Season

Sowing Table

Deciding What to Plant

Choosing Plants

Designing with Plants

Shrubs and Small Trees

Small Conifers

Hedges and Wall Shrubs

Climbing Plants

Herbaceous Perennials

Bedding Plants

Annuals and Biennials

Rock-Garden Plants

Rock, Alpine and Desert Plants

Water Plants

Bamboos and Grasses

Container Plants

Herbs

Fruit

Vegetables

Tips for Growing Vegetables and Fruit

Vegetables

Fruit

Care and Troubleshooting

Looking after Plants

Pests and Diseases

Year-Round Calendar

Troubleshooting

Getting Started

WHY GARDEN?

The moment you take people out into the garden, they immediately become more relaxed and expansive. Their smiles get bigger, they talk more loudly, their hand movements are broader, and they generally stride around looking happier. Whoever said that the great outdoors is our natural habitat certainly knew what they were talking about. Gardens are uniquely wonderful.

What could be better after a hot, sticky day at work, or a long drive home, than to relax in the garden? Gardens are all things to all people – a place for reading, a place for growing tasty vegetables, a place for playing out private fantasies such as building a log cabin, digging holes, building ponds or breeding chickens, a place for whatever takes your fancy. Patios, ponds, sheds, gazebos, barbecues, vegetable plots and lawns … there are so many exciting options.

Your garden might not be much bigger than a small room, but this does not mean that you cannot turn it into the best room in the house – a room with a ceiling that stretches right up to the sky. This book will gently guide you through all the stages, from planning and making drawings through to selecting tools, digging, building walls, planting, stocking and much more besides. No more dreaming … now is the time for turning fantasies into realities.

Measurements

Both metric and U.S. measurements are given in this book – for example, 6 ft (1.8 m).

Seasons

Because of global and even regional variations in climate and temperatures, throughout this book planting advice is given in terms of the four main seasons, with each subdivided into “early,” “mid-” and “late” – for example, early spring, mid-spring and late spring. These 12 divisions of the year can be applied to the approximate calendar months in your local area, if you find this helps.

ENJOYING YOUR GARDEN

Although you might start out with preconceived notions – the garden has to be formal, or you want to grow vegetables, for example – the finished garden will of necessity be a coming-together of what you dream of having and what you actually have on the ground – the location, the size of the plot, the character of your home, and so on. The best way of getting started is to list your needs, think hard about the possibilities, and take things from there.

How do I get the best out of my garden?

YOUR NEEDS

List your needs in order of priority. Your needs might be unspoken, but you probably know absolutely for sure what you don’t want. If this is the case, then list what you don’t want, and then, by a process of elimination, gradually work through to what you would like to have.

THE POSSIBILITIES

Look at the size and location of your plot, and the size of your bank balance, and consider the possibilities accordingly. You might want a huge lake, but if you only have a modest-sized garden, with a modest-sized bank balance to match, it is probably better to modify your “needs” and opt for a good- sized pond.

IMPROVING AND EVOLVING

Gardens generally improve and evolve simply with the passing of time. Plants get bigger, new plants can be grown, lawns can be changed into flower beds, and so on.

Even the smallest patch can be turned into a gentle, soothing haven.

GARDENING STYLES

Although there are only two basic styles of garden, informal and formal, there are many variations on these styles. For example, you could have an informal cottage- orchard type garden, or an informal wild garden. Much the same goes for a formal garden. You could have a classic garden with all the features relating to a symmetrical ground plan, or you could have a Japanese garden that is formal in its layout.

INFORMAL

A natural patio complete with apple trees and meadow grass.

Wildlife areas introduce a new dimension to gardening, and are perfect for a small, quiet, out-of-the-way position.

FORMAL

A small formal garden which has been designed so that the plants can easily be changed to follow the seasons.

A single stone ball can be an eye-catching feature.

THEMED

Areas of gravel create the perfect base for a Japanese garden.

ASSESSING YOUR GARDEN

A successful garden is nearly always a marriage of what you actually have and what you would like to have. The first step is to spend time in the garden. Look at the space, the levels, the walls and so on, and then decide what you want from your garden. Do you like gardening, or do you simply want to enjoy being outdoors? Consider your finances and your physical capabilities. Generally think through the possibilities and then slowly begin to make plans.

Where do I start?

SIZE

Garden size is relative. If you are not very keen on gardening and just want a space to relax and read a book, half an acre (0.2 of a hectare) is a huge area, but if you want to grow all your own vegetables then the same area is perhaps a bit poky. Big, small, long or wide, treat the space like a room in your house and make the most of all the existing features.

SHAPE

Making the most of an unusually shaped space – thin, wide, triangular, L-shaped, or whatever – can result in a uniquely exciting garden. A difficult corner plot can be a problem, but then again such a shape offers you the chance to create a really unusual garden, one that stands out from its neighbors.

EXTREMELY SLOPING SITES

Extremely sloping sites can be great fun. You have three options. In ascending order of sweat and expense, you can make something of it as is, you can build raised decking to create level patio areas, and, most difficult of all, you can create one or more terraces. If you want terraces but need to keep costs down, and don’t mind hard work, the best option is to dig out and move the existing soil.

ORIENTATION

Stand in the garden at various times of the day, and look at the house and the trees and the position of the sun. As you cannot move the house within the site, you have no choice other than to design the garden so that it makes the most of what is on offer in the way of sun, shade and privacy. Decide, for example, if you want the patio in full sun, or the vegetable plot in full sun and yet out of sight of the house.

Design the garden so that it makes the most of the sun.

Balcony gardens

The best way of coping with a cramped balcony garden is to use a variety of containers; these may be fixed to the balustrade, used as window boxes, hanging from the walls, arranged in tiers or in groups on the floor, placed in groups just inside the door to the house, and so on. Use container plants to blur the boundaries between the inside and outside space.

Roof gardens

Much depends upon the size of your roof garden, but as a generalization it is always a good decision to spend on a quality floor such as tiles or decking, really good furniture, and as many pots and containers as you can get into the space.

EXPOSED SITES

Ordinary garden plants hate wind. The key to creating a garden on an exposed site is to build as many windbreaks as possible – walls, fences, sheds and the like – and then to grow tough plants on the lee or sheltered side of the breaks. Once the plants are established, the enclosed space will be that much warmer and draft-free – a good environment for a whole range of medium to fully hardy plants.

SOIL TYPES

To a great extent, you have no choice but to work with your soil – its particular type and conditions. The soil type will influence what you can grow. Don’t worry too much about its pH (whether it is acid or alkaline); just take note of whether it is sandy, wet, dry, clay or rocky, and then look around at your locality and choose plants that will thrive in that type of soil.

LARGE PERMANENT FEATURES

In most instances, you have to work around large permanent features such as a huge tree, the back of a neighbor’s shed, a tall wall that overlooks the garden or a streetlight. If you don’t like the back of the neighbor’s shed, then why not block it out with a shed of your own, a trellis covered with a vigorous climbing plant, or a tall, attractive fence? Try to use the back of the shed to your advantage.

YOU AND YOUR GARDEN

The wonderful thing about gardens is that they give you the chance to create your own private haven. Of course, you do have to consider the needs of friends and neighbors, but first and foremost you must start by identifying your own needs – all the things that you do and don’t want.

Ideas suited to the types of garden

Your garden might well be, in some way or other, uniquely tricky, but the good news is that there will be all sorts of exciting ideas and options that you can use to best advantage.

Small shady garden with moist soil Try a woodland theme with a small sitting area or “glade” positioned to catch available patches of sunshine. Go for woodland plants that positively enjoy damp shady conditions, like ferns, ivies, some grasses and bamboos, hostas, Polygonatum, primulas and hydrangeas.

Small shady garden with dry soil A good idea is a woodland glade theme with shrubs and trees like fuchsias, Parthenocissus (Virginia creeper) and Acers (Japanese Maples) around the borders. Have a large patch of lawn for the “glade.” Extend the woodland glade theme by spreading a mulch of woodchip around the shrubs and trees.

Small sunny garden with dry soil Position a gazebo or arbor so that it catches most of the sunshine, and then have a small pool with appropriate planting. You could have Eichhornia (Water Hyacinth), Aponogeton distachyos (Water Hawthorn) and a whole range of lilies.

Sloping garden with stony soil Take advantage of the stony conditions by making the garden into one large alpine rock garden. Bring in large feature rocks and stone troughs, and grow alpine plants like Thyme, Sedum (Stonecrop), Iberis (Candytuft) and Phlox subulata (Moss Phlox).

Large garden with wet clay soil Turn the whole garden into one big water garden with a large natural pond at the center and areas of bog garden to catch the runoff from the pond. Have all the usual plants in the pond, with the marginals around the pond blurring into bog plants like irises, primulas, ferns and Hemerocallis (Daylilies).

Garden with back-to-back houses Position a pergola at the bottom of the garden, with trellises to each side, and then plant climbers to grow over it. You could concentrate on Clematis – search out the various spring, summer, autumn and winter varieties – so that you have foliage, buds and flowers all year.

Garden sloping down from the house Create a flat terrace area close to the house with steps running from the terrace down to the lawn and flowerbeds. You could have a cottage-garden feature in the lower garden with wildflowers like Viola odorata (Sweet Violet), Lythrum salicaria (Purple Loosestrife) and Lychnis flos-cuculi (Ragged Robin).

Garden sloping up from the house Dig out the ground close to the house and build a patio. You could have steps leading up the slope with ponds and waterfalls at various levels. The idea is that you can sit on the patio and view the water and plants as they cascade down the slope.

Small garden ringed by high walls Fix wires and trellises on all the walls and then plant a whole range of climbing plants. You could have Parthenocissus (Virginia Creeper) and Pileostegia viburnoides on the shady walls, and plants like Wisteria and Lonicera (Honeysuckle) where there is sun.

Small walled courtyard garden Build a pergola that more or less fills the space. Cover the top of the pergola with clear plastic sheet so that the courtyard is roofed over. Put a small wall feature on one wall, and plant grapevines on the underside of the pergola so you can sit out in all weather.

Wish list

Every good idea starts with a wish list. The very act of sitting and dreaming about what is possible is a good part of the pleasure of gardening. I wish I could have …

Barbecue: a brick-built barbecue is a good option. All you need is a patio area, the barbecue itself and seating all around.

Beds and borders: beds and borders are like an ever-changing film screen – places that you can stuff full of color.

Bird bath and bird feeder: bird baths and feeders are a must. What better way to enjoy the garden in winter than to put food out and to watch the birds feeding and bathing?

Chickens: going to the chicken house and listening to that very special sound that hens make when they are about to lay … it’s a thought!

Fruit trees: apples and plums are good, but when they are fresh from the tree they are very special – a gift from nature.

Gazebo: lots of people dream about having a gazebo. Just think about it – a place for the kids, or a place for sleeping when the weather is hot and sticky.

Greenhouse: if you want to be able to get out into the garden from very early spring until early winter, you are going to need a greenhouse.

Herb garden: a sunny patio is good, but a patio planted with herbs such as thyme, sage, marjoram and so on is better.

Kids’ garden: children need a place to play. A jungle gym is fine, but a place to dig and make a camp, and make a mess, is so much better.

Lawn: an area of lawn is essential. The mowing may be a bit of a chore, but the scent given off by the freshly cut grass, and the pleasure of sitting on the lawn, are experiences that should not be missed.

Log cabin: if ever there was a dream feature, this is it. It can be just about anything you care to make it – a workshop, a weekend cabin, a place for the kids, or a potting shed.

Patio: what could be more pleasurable on a warm sunny day than to sit on a patio with friends and family? A good patio is a choice item.

Pergola: a well-placed pergola is another great option – good for providing shade over the patio, for growing grapes and for blotting out eyesores.

Pond: water has irresistible magical qualities that give us pleasure – the sight and sound of moving water is fascinating.

Raised beds: raised beds not only make for easy gardening – with less strain on the back – but they are also good for keeping small toddlers and pets away from the plants.

Summerhouse: a summerhouse is a delightful setting for having afternoon tea, reading a good book or just indulging in some quiet contemplation.

Vegetable plot: this is the age of the vegetable plot. If you enjoy fresh food and/or want to go organic, then a vegetable garden is for you.

Wildlife: birds, bugs, frogs, toads, newts and small mammals … a wildlife garden is one of life’s great pleasures.

GATHERING INSPIRATION

In much the same way as poets and artists draw inspiration from their interests and passions – romantic love, the glories of nature, the wonders of technology, travel – so the garden designer needs to draw inspiration from his or her experiences and passions. Whatever your interests may be – trees, roses, water, travel, eating in the garden, watching your children at play – your best starting point is to draw inspiration from the things that give you pleasure.

Where do I start?

LOOKING AND COLLECTING

Note the large, permanent objects and items that you have to live with, such as the house, boundary walls and large trees, and then look around you at the things you have collected. For example, you might have a collection of nautical bits like anchors, glass floats and chains, old street lamps, old farm items, special plants or perhaps even your holiday photographs to inspire you.

A collection of bamboos could well be inspirational.

Favorite plants can also provide great inspiration.

Try found objects such as Victorian street lamps.

Postcards of beautiful gardens will give you something to aim for.

Books, magazines and television programs

Once you have come up with the bare bones of a scheme, follow through your research by looking through books and magazines, and by watching television. It is a good idea to make a collection of the ideas that you would like to include in your design – colors, plants, materials, structures, furniture, in fact anything and everything that strikes your fancy.

Keep a scrapbook. Save photographs from magazines and catalogs that show things like grand houses, flowers or sculpture.

Garden centers and nurseries

Garden centers and nurseries are great places for searching out ideas. Arm yourself with a digital camera, paper and pencil, and take note of everything that looks interesting. Gather a body of data to flesh out and back up your ideas – names of plants, colors, growing habits and so on. If you have in mind to go for a theme, say a Japanese garden, search out plants, materials and products that you know to be variously useful, traditional or characteristic.

Wander around the garden center or nursery keeping an eye open for anything that might spark an idea, such as unusual containers.

As you walk slowly around the various displays, take photographs of plants, products and features that you think might fit well into your scheme.

Visiting gardens

If you have a friend who has created a beautiful garden, when you next visit ask them to tell you about how they got started and how the design has evolved.

It is also a good idea to visit world-renowned gardens that are open to the public. In the US, for example, there are the Brooklyn Botanic Garden, Missouri Botanical Garden, Atlanta Botanical Garden, Denver Botanic Gardens and Leach Botanical Garden, to name a few.

A fine example of a traditional English pergola, with solid square-section brick columns topped off with oak beams.

A well-planted border can be a joy to the eye – so stunning that you might want to copy it in every detail.

Sometimes a particular arrangement of plants and structures, such as this piece of statuary placed beneath a rose arch, is inspiration enough.

Plants you like

List your favorite plants, with common names and botanical names, and brief details about their growing habits. Try to get magazine images as a reference. Ask friends, family and neighbors to tell you as much as they can about them.

Unsuitable plants

Look at your list in the light of your designs, and cross out ones that are obviously unsuitable. You might like the color and the scent, but if it is going to grow too big for your space, or it is too prickly for say a child’s play area, then it is no good. Size and habit are particularly important if you are designing a small, enclosed garden.

Other sources of inspiration

Famous paintings Paintings are inspirational. For example, how about a garden design based on one of Monet’s lily-pond paintings?

Memories Rolling around in your grandfather’s apple orchard, flirting under a particular type of tree … these types of memories can be particularly inspirational.

Fantasies If, for example, you have fantasies about living in a hut on a tropical island, you could build the fantasy into your designs.

Country walks A bend in a river with a quaint wooden bridge and willows … country walks are another rich source of ideas.

Cultural influences If you have experienced the pleasures of sitting in a Mediterranean garden, or under a loggia in India, why not create one of your own?

PUTTING THE ELEMENTS TOGETHER

Something for everyone in the family It is important to include the whole family in the design process – adults, children and even pets. Make sure everyone is happy with the end design.

Deciding what to drop If you have worries, such as the kids falling into the pond or plant allergies, then simply leave these elements out of the design.

Eclectic or sweet harmony? Most gardens veer towards harmony but, if you know what you like and you want a glorious unrelated mishmash of styles and forms, the choice is yours.

Scaling down Sometimes you do have to compromise. If an element is dangerously large, or there just is not enough room for all those oak trees, you have no choice but to scale down.

Cost and time When it comes down to it, most designs hinge on money and time. You could spread the creation time over several years, get friends to help with the work and beg and borrow plants, but you might also need to cut basic material costs – stone, wood, cement and the like.

DESIGN TECHNIQUES

This is the exciting bit. You have visited grand houses and show gardens, taken many photographs, developed a passion for just about everything, and generally looked, collected and clipped until your mind is racing with ideas. When it comes to good design, it helps if you follow the rule that says “form follows function.” This means that your final design should be a balanced blend of both your functional needs and your ideas and passions.

How can I use my inspiration?

A long, formal pond or canal links the patio with the rest of the garden. The natural earth-colored bricks and symmetrical layout give this design a traditional or classic feel. The planting is less formal.

A decking patio with seaside overtones – the matching raised beds are topped with turquoise crushed stone to draw the eye. This is an entirely modern design that focuses on color, texture and function.

GOOD DESIGN, POOR DESIGN, TASTE AND STYLE

In the context of design, a good starting point is to say that things and structures have to work – gates must open, seating needs to be comfortable, steps must be safe, and so on. If you are worried about what constitutes good taste or good style, then the best advice is to relate to tried and trusted classical forms. If you go for untried, cutting-edge forms and imagery, then you may risk, certainly in the short term, your design being described as being in poor taste or poor style – sometimes possibly for no other reason than that it has not passed the test of time.

DRAWING INSPIRATION FROM AN EXISTING DESIGN

There is a fine line between drawing inspiration from an existing design and copying a design. If you visit a garden and are so excited by it that you go away and create a garden that pays homage to it, you are drawing inspiration from it. If, however, you replicate it stone by stone and flower by flower, you are merely copying it.

FRESH, ORIGINAL IDEAS

Using fresh, original ideas is always good. Try to be original with the small things – the little details – and big original ideas should follow. There is no credit in being original just for the sake of it, however. Of course, it is always good to aim for originality, but do not worry too much if you fail.

GARDENS EVOLVE

The wonderful thing about gardens is the way they evolve. You start by putting in structures – paths, walls, and hard areas – and gradually as plants grow in size and number, and as your behavior changes, so you will find that you will, almost by necessity, modify the shape of the structures to fit.

Harmony and contrast

Taken literally, the term “harmony” describes forms, colors and textures that are similar one to another, to the extent that they look happy together. Red brick, stone and wood might be described as being in harmony. The term “contrast” describes forms, textures and colors that are dissimilar or opposite. The strange thing is that contrasts – say dark against light, or rough against smooth – can be a joy to the eye. For example, polished marble can look all the more exciting when it is set against a contrasting material like rough-hewn oak.

You can use a color wheel like this to help you make informal decisions.

LANDSCAPING TIPS

Work with what you have: do your best to keep and use what you have – mature trees, dips and hollows in the ground, natural features like rocks and pools.

Soil stability: be wary about making big changes with wet or waterlogged soil, or soil on a sloping site. Take advice if you have doubts.

The house must look comfortable: aim for a landscape that holds and nestles the house, so that the house looks “happy” in its setting.

Get the best viewpoint: shape the garden so that it looks its best when seen from the house. If you get it right, the house will also look its best from various vantage points around the garden.

Draw inspiration from nature: the easiest way forward is to draw inspiration from a slice of nature – a forest glade, a valley, the side of a hill.

Materials in harmony: all new materials look their best when they are drawn from the locality – local bricks, local stone, local wood.

Scale in harmony: aim for structures that complement the house in size, rather than structures that overwhelm the house.

PLANTING TIPS

If you liken planting to painting colors on a canvas, you can take the analogy one step further by saying that you must hold back with the planting until the canvas – the structure of the garden – has been well prepared.

Climatic conditions: the plants must be suitable for your climate – it is no good going for delicate plants if your site is windy and subject to frosts.

Soil conditions: the plants must suit the soil – you must not choose chalk-loving plants if your soil is predominantly clay.

Sun and shade conditions: look at the way the sun moves around the garden, note the areas that are sunny and shady, and position the plants accordingly.

Scale: take note of the potential size of plants – the width and height when fully grown. Be especially wary of some of the fast- growing conifers.

Year-round color: aim for a broad selection of plants, so that you have year-round foliage, bud, stem and flower color.

Container-grown plants: these can be purchased and planted all year round.

MAKING NOTES AND SKETCHES

It is a good idea to go out into your garden, with a stack of colored pens and a pad of graph paper, and to make sketches. Take measurements of the garden, decide on the scale – say one grid square equals 2 ft (60 cm) – and then draw the garden in plan and perspective view, with close-up details showing special areas of interest (see below). Draw what you already have, and then draw in any desired changes. Try to visualize how the changes will affect how you use the space. Place markers around the garden so that you can more easily visualize changes.

Use a rope, hose or chain together with some stakes to help you plot out an irregular shape.

A plan view of the garden (viewed from above) can be drawn to scale over graph paper. Coloring in areas can be helpful.

A perspective view of the garden is more difficult to draw than a plan view, but is nevertheless the best way to visualize your design.

Important features can be drawn separately and in more detail.

CHOICE OF INFRASTRUCTURE

When planning the infrastructure of a small garden, there is usually more money available for the construction of each square yard or meter than for a large garden, where economies generally have to be made. Additionally, because the area is small, immediate and more distinctive visual impact is needed. Garden centers and builder’s yards, as well as catalogs from magazines and newspapers, will give you an idea of the materials available.

Are special designs possible?

Walls smothered in flowering climbers, such as Roses, Clematis and Honeysuckle, create color as well as informality.

FENCING CHECKS

You may have inherited an attractive small garden and initially decided not to make radical changes, but if you have children and dogs it is worth checking fences.

• Fencing posts broken at ground level can be repaired by cutting off the base and fitting a spike-ended, metal, post-base. Alternatively, bolt a concrete or wooden post to sound wood and re-concrete into the ground.

• A wide variety of materials and styles are available for fencing. For a more formal setting, use cast iron. For a casual, Western look, choose split rail fencing. If the fence is more than just decorative, as in keeping in pets, opt for appropriately sized fencing.

Problems with clay

Increasingly, high temperatures combined with limited summer rain causes clay to shrink radically. Where foundations of buildings are deep, this creates few problems but, when paving slabs on a patio or path have only a thin concrete base, eventually they deform and buckle. First-aid treatment is to lift and re-cement individual slabs. For a longer-term solution, you will need to lift all the slabs and provide a thicker base for the complete patio or path.

DISPOSING OF RUBBISH

There are several solutions for disposal:

•Rent a rollaway bin – check that the company is insured, that they know about your city’s codes about placement of the rollaway, and that the size they deliver is appropriate for your needs.

•Builder’s bags – these are increasingly used to deliver building materials, as well as collecting rubbish. They are about a yard/meter square and deep. Check with your local builder’s merchant.

•Local authority – may provide a trash- collection service.

Structural elements to consider

•Decking: raised or at ground level.

•Edgings: wide range, including concrete and wood.

•Paths: surfaces and durability.

•Patios, courtyards and terraces: wide choice.

•Pergolas, trellises and arches: for small gardens.

•Porches and entrances: decorative features.

•Sheds and greenhouses: practical features.

•Steps: practical yet attractive.

•Walls and fences: garden perimeters.

THINK ABOUT THE PLANTS

Don’t separate the selection of plants from getting the infrastructure right.

• If you like relaxed plants such as bamboos, ferns and ornamental grasses, you will want an informal garden to complement them.

• For clinical and regimented displays of summer- flowering bedding plants, you will need a formal garden.

MAKING THE MOST OF BALCONIES

These are more sheltered than a roof garden, and with a base that is firm and secure. However, a sun-facing position will rapidly dry compost.

• If the balcony does not have a roof, fit a collapsible sunshade.

• Where a balcony has a roof, but strong, late-evening sunlight still causes dazzle, you can fit a sun shade to the balcony’s upper edge.

• Always make sure that water cannot drip on people or balconies below. Wherever possible, stand pots in large, plastic saucers.

Infrastructure for roof gardens

Persistent and buffeting wind combined with strong sunlight make roof gardens difficult but exciting places for gardening. Additionally, consider the following constructional questions.

• Permission may be required from the building’s owner, as well as from local authorities. Also, check the thoughts of neighbors – it may not impress them.

• The weight of the flooring needs to be light but strong – check with a structural engineer if in doubt.

• The weight of pots and other containers – when full of soil and after being watered – may be excessive.

• Don’t damage felt roofs.

• Make sure excess water is adequately drained.

• A sturdy screen is usually needed to filter strong wind. Make sure it cannot be blown away and cause damage to people and property.

INFRASTRUCTURE EXAMPLES

A SMALL GARDEN

Within informal gardens, a surprisingly wide range of features can be included in a casual yet purposeful manner. The pergola acts as a focal point.

INFRASTRUCTURE EXAMPLES

A SMALL FRONT GARDEN

Most small front gardens have a formal character, with plants in rows and neat roadside edgings. Porches help to create focal points for paths.

A SMALL COURTYARD

Courtyards are summer-leisure areas as well as places where plants can be grown. By their nature, courtyards are private areas, with complete seclusion.

GETTING IT DOWN ON PAPER

If you want the project to run smoothly, you need to plan everything out and make drawings. The procedure is as follows: first, make a rough sketch on a scrap of paper, showing the existing garden with measurements. Next, transfer these details onto graph paper to make a “site plan” (drawn to scale). Then, set a sheet of graph paper over the site plan and make a “master plan” of the new garden, tracing the boundaries and existing items as required.

How do I make a working drawing?

MAKING THE SITE PLAN

About graph paper You will need a pad of graph layout paper – meaning thin paper that has been printed with a grid – the biggest size of pad that you can obtain. Look at the size of your garden; say it is 100 ft (30 m) long and 80 ft (25 m) wide, and decide on the scale of your graph paper. Count the squares on the long side of the paper and divide them by the length of the garden. Work to the nearest whole square. So, for example, if the paper is 100 squares long, then you could say that one square on the paper equals 1 ft (30 cm) in the garden.

Measuring your garden Use a long tape measure to measure your garden. Start by measuring the length. Plot this measurement on the long side of the paper. Repeat the procedure with the width of the garden and plot it on the short side of the paper.

Right angles – 90° angles Check for right angles by measuring the diagonals. For example, if your garden is in any way square or rectilinear, then the crossed diagonal measurements should more or less be equal.

Awkward shapes You can plot an awkward shape by drawing a straight line from two fixed points – say between two trees. Step off at regular intervals along the straight line and measure how far the curves of the awkward shape are out from the stepped-off point.

Paths and drives

If the site plan is a record of items and structures that you have no choice but to leave unchanged, you have the option here of whether or not to mark in the position of the paths and drives. You could say that, since the position of the front door and the front gate are fixed, it follows that the paths will also stay the same. This does not necessarily follow, however. That said, it is usually a good idea to draw them in.

Slopes in cross-section

The easiest way of recording a slope is to draw a cross-section view. Draw the length of the slope on a piece of graph paper and label the line “top.” You need a spirit (carpenter’s) level taped to a 7 ft (2 m) long board. Working from the top of the slope, hold one end of the board on the ground so that the level is true, and measure the vertical distance from the overhanging end of the board down to the ground. Mark this in on the drawing. Continue down the slope until you have a record.

ITEMS THAT YOU NEED TO MARK ON THE SITE PLAN

• NSEW

• Midday sun

• Outline of boundary

• Items that you want to keep or modify

• House

• Mature trees

• Neighbors’ trees

• Underground pipes and cables

• Doors on house

• Windows on house

• Drain access points

• Main gate

MAKING THE MASTER PLAN

Tracing the site plan Put a sheet of graph paper over the site plan and use the underlying plan to work out what you want in your new garden. You might well have to go through this procedure a dozen or so times before you have a drawing that suits all your needs.

Pencilling in your design Once you have achieved a good preliminary plan, set it under another sheet of graph paper and trace it off with a pencil. This new drawing is your “master plan.” You should now have two finished drawings – the site plan that records the bare bones of the garden, and the master plan that sets out the design of the new garden. You can photocopy the master plan so you have lots of copies.

Separate details Some items are so complex in themselves that they will need working drawings. So, for example, with a water feature, you will need a plan view, a front view and a cross-section showing how it is constructed.

Coloring in Some people make colored drawings to show how the garden might look at various times of the year. To make a colored drawing, set a sheet of plain paper over the master plan – hold it against a window and make a tracing. Tint this drawing with colored pencils or watercolors.

The best plants for the job

With thousands of plants to choose from, the challenge is to get the right plants to suit your location. See the Deciding What to Plant section of this book on here–here for some of the best choices in each category.

Trees: Small trees offer good year-round color and texture – foliage, blossom, fruit and bark.

Hedges: Hedges make good boundaries, attract wildlife and add year-round color and interest.

Herbaceous perennials: These are the plants that last a few years before being lifted and divided.

Shrubs: Shrubs are ideal for small gardens.

Wall shrubs: Wall shrubs are a good option for small courtyard gardens.

Climbing plants: Climbers are essential when walls and fences ring your garden.

Annuals, biennials and bedding plants: Summer bedding is formed mainly of these plants.

Bamboos and grasses: Bamboos and grasses are good when you want plants in small raised borders and containers.

Water plants: You will need plants for the margins, for the areas of bog, and for the water area.

Other plants: These include rock, alpine and desert plants, container plants, herbs, fruit and vegetables.

PLANNING THE WORK

The key to good garden design is planning. If you want the project to run smoothly, you must work in a carefully thought-out, step-by-step sequence. It is no good simply rushing in and hoping for the best; you must work out the order of tasks to the very last detail. The best method is to start by establishing the boundaries, and then to work in and up, sorting out the tasks in order – ground levels, infrastructures, features, lawns and finally planting.

Why do I need to plan?

STEP-BY-STEP ORDER OF WORK

EMPLOYING LANDSCAPERS VERSUS DIY

Of course you can call in landscape contractors, but it will be expensive, and worse still you will miss out on all the fun. By far the best all-round option is to do the work yourself. If you follow the DIY route, you can control the costs, make modifications as you go along, get lots of healthy exercise, save on gym fees, take as much time as you want, ask your friends and family to join in the fun – the kids will love digging holes – and, possibly best of all, the workers can have countless barbecue parties.

STEP 1: Boundaries

Being mindful that most neighbor disputes are about things like tall hedges and fence posts, carefully identify your boundaries. Tidy up the hedges and/or build secondary fences in front of them. If you are rebuilding a fence or wall, be sure to talk to your neighbors along the way. Replace only short lengths at a time, so that neither you nor your neighbors lose sight of reference markers.

STEP 2: Ground levels

You have three choices with a sloping site: you can leave it as a feature, you can build low retaining walls and make a series of terraces, or you can build one or more retaining large walls and level the whole site. Be aware that changing levels will have an impact on your neighbors’ drainage. You must not build the earth up against house walls or fences. Dig out ponds and bury pipes and cables.

STEP 3: Primary infrastructures

Build up the various primary retaining walls to hold back the earth, and then follow on with walls for raised beds. Make sure that primary retaining walls are broad-based with drainage points and good foundations. Retaining walls higher than about 3 ft (90 cm) will need to be reinforced with iron bars set into the foundations. Build paths and drives, and foundations (for things like sheds, steps, edges of flower borders and lawns, and brick gate posts).

STEP 4: Features and detailing

Put in the main features, such as pond liners for sunken ponds. Build walls around raised ponds, lay patios, tidy up paths and erect sheds; then follow up with small details like steps, small paths and edges around ponds and trees. Build brick gateposts, hang gates, erect pergolas and trellises, and put down lawn and border edgings. If you have got to do anything else that involves digging holes or making a mess, now is the time to do it.

COMMON PROBLEMS AND HOW TO AVOID OR SOLVE THEM

Fence disputes Talk things through with the neighbors at every stage. Leave old posts in place as markers. Leave their fences alone.

Neighbors’ trees You cannot do anything about neighbors’ trees, other than to trim them from your side. Remember to ask the neighbors if they want the trimmings.

Big rocks Keep rocks as a feature, or get a specialist to remove them.

Clay soil Live with clay soil. Look at neighboring gardens and see what grows best. For vegetable gardens, make raised borders and buy compost and horse manure – so that you are working above the level of the clay.

Contaminated ground Build over gravel and/or use it as filler. If it is something nasty like asbestos or oil, seek specialist advice.

Waterlogged ground Build a pond, lay drainage pipes and create a water garden complete with bog plants.

Unwanted structures Carefully salvage bricks and use them for walls.

STEP 5: Lawns

Having seen to it that the lawn areas are well drained – with perforated pipes or trenches filled with gravel – bring back the topsoil and carefully level the ground. Spend time getting it right. Finally roll the ground, and put down seed or lay turf. Keep off the lawn until the ground has settled.

STEP 6: Planting

Now comes the exciting bit – the planting. Take your time and do your research. You can make considerable cost cuts by phoning around and comparing prices.

• Have a good long look at the finished garden and plan out the planting positions. Prepare the planting areas with just the right soil. Make a plant list.

• Call nurseries and garden centers, and generally make enquiries about availability. Make contact with specialist nurseries for items like roses, fruit trees, climbing shrubs, pond plants and fuchsias.

• See if you can cut costs by buying in bulk or by getting all the plants at the same time. Compare prices.

• If you are buying large, mature, container-grown trees, make sure that there is adequate height and width access.

• If you have doubts about the total planting pattern, start by planting the main trees and shrubs.

PROBLEMS AND OPPORTUNITIES

With all sites there are problems and opportunities, and sometimes areas that initially appear totally inhospitable eventually produce the most interesting and distinctive gardens – unique and full of character. Creating height through arches, trellises and pergolas draws attention away from exceptionally narrow or short gardens, while a levelled area on a steep slope becomes idyllic when turned into a leisure feature, especially if illuminated at night.

Can all sites be made attractive?

TOO SMALL?

Logically, there is a size when it is near impossible to create an area in which plants can be grown. Yet many successful gardens are created in areas at the entrances to basement apartments, where both space and light are limited. In small areas ideals are limited, but a few decorative pots, a hanging basket and window box can be just as cherished as an extensive and well-manicured lawn is to a croquet devotee.

Use climbers to cloak eyesores and barren walls. Hanging baskets and window boxes can be used in a similar way.

SEEING THE OPPORTUNITIES

The ability to recognize hidden opportunities in potential gardens is, in part, gained by looking at other gardens, both locally and nationally. Some large display gardens even have areas where a range of small gardens are featured; even if one of them in its entirety does not suit you, an amalgam of several elements may be practical in your garden. Have a sketch-pad or camera handy and take a few notes that later give clues to opportunities.

Annuals are sown in spring each year to create an inexpensive yet vibrantly colored feast of flowers.

LEGACY PROBLEMS

Often there are existing structures in a garden left from the previous owners (or even before them). It could be poles set in concrete to hang out the wash, or the foundation of an old shed. Regardless, former owners often let these existing obstacles restrict their garden design. When first taking possession of a new garden, the time is now to remove these old structures so you can start from a clean slate.

Raised decking is ideal for creating a distinctive feature, perhaps alongside a stream or a colorful garden pond.

AWKWARDLY SHAPED SITES

TERRACING SLOPES

Brick retaining walls have a formal nature and are suited to relatively open areas, whereas old railroad ties are better for relaxed and informal settings with beds of grasses and deciduous azaleas. Peat- blocks are another solution to soil retention, but not on steep slopes. In open areas, slopes can be grass, with level areas interspersed with 45° slopes. Powered edge trimmers are ideal for cutting grass on slopes.

STEEP SLOPES

Slopes provide added interest in a garden, although moving from one level to another can sometimes be difficult – especially as age progresses. Flights of 6–8 steps – with a resting landing between them – make slopes easier to negotiate.

Creating a flattened leisure area on a steep slope helps to split it up. Where possible, position this feature level with head height when viewed from a patio around the house.

SHORT AND WIDE

Accentuate the shortness by erecting a head-high screen of leafy or flowering climbers across the garden, so that the boundary cannot be seen. Ensure that the screen is not too high, because a glimpse of openness beyond the garden removes any feeling of claustrophobia. A well- kept lawn creates an impression of space, while a bench positioned close to the screen forms a focal point.

LONG AND NARROW

Create the impression of a shorter garden by dividing it into several units, each with a unique feel. In a small garden, a free- standing trellis, perhaps combined with a leaf-drenched arch, takes up less space than a dense hedge. Create mystery by varying the position of a linking path, making it impossible to see the back of the garden from the house.

SOIL PROBLEMS

Soils vary in their nature; most are neutral and neither acid nor alkaline. Others are well drained, some waterlogged. Occasionally they are hot and dry. Plants that prefer specific soils are indicated in the plant directory (see here–here).

•Acid soils: these are soils with a pH below about 6.5. Acidity can be corrected by dusting the surface with hydrated lime or ground limestone in winter, after digging. However, some plants – such as Rhododendrons and Azaleas – demand acid soils.

•Alkaline (chalky) soils: these have a pH above 7.0. Chalky soils can be corrected by used acidic fertilizers such as sulphate of ammonia, plus applications of peat. Many plants grow well in chalky soils.

•Neutral soils: these are soils with a pH of 7.0, although most plants grow well in a pH between 6.5 and 7.0.

Shady or sunny?