Ultimate Guide: Decks, Updated 6th Edition E-Book

Editors of Creative Homeowner

• Herausgeber: Creative Homeowner
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2023

Seitenzahl: 422

Beschreibung

Add the perfect deck and enjoy the outdoors from the comfort of your own home! Featuring 30 complete deck plans that are created and provided by the industry's leading master deck builders, this comprehensive, easy-to-read guide will walk you through the entire process of designing, building, and repairing a deck from start to finish. With step-by-step instructions for accomplishing all the included deck designs, coordinating photography, material lists, and expert advice, build the deck of your dreams whether you do it yourself or hire a contractor. Newly updated edition includes revisions to information that complies with major deck codes implemented in recent years, plus new sections on deck repair, installing deck accessories, and more.

Leseprobe

Copyright © 1997, 2001, 2005, 2010, 2018, 2023 Creative Homeowner

This book may not be reproduced, either in part or in its entirety, in any form, by any means, without written permission from the pulisher, with the exception of brief excerpts for purposes of radio, television, or published review. All rights, including the right of translation, are reserved. Note: Be sure to familiarize yourself with manufacturer’s instructions for tools, equipment, and materials before beginning a project. Although all possible measures have been taken to ensure the accuracy of the material presented, neither the author nor the publisher is liable in case of misinterpretation of directions, misapplication, or typographical error.

Creative Homeowner® is a registered trademark of New Design Originals Corporation.

All Decked Out® is a trademark of Gary Marsh.

Ultimate Guide: Decks, Updated 6th Edition

Editors: Jeremy Hauck, Sherry Vitolo

Designer: Wendy Reynolds

Technical Consultant: Glenn Mathewson

Technical Editor: Charlie Byers

Technical Editor, Previous Edition: David Schiff

Technical Consultant, Previous Edition: Ken Kroog

Indexer: Jay Kreider

Proofreader: Nancy Arndt

Tables R507.5(1) (page 120) and R507.6 (page 122) excerpted from the 2021 International Residential Code. Copyright 2021. Washington, D.C.: International Code Council, Inc. All rights reserved. Reprinted with permission. www.ICCSAFE.org

Print ISBN 978-1-58011-862-0eISBN 978-1-60765-867-2

Library of Congress Control Number: 2022930548

We are always looking for talented authors. To submit an idea, please send a brief inquiry to [email protected].

Creative Homeowner®, www.creativehomeowner.com, is an imprint of New Design Originals Corporation and distributed exclusively in North America by Fox Chapel Publishing Company, Inc., 800-457-9112, 903 Square Street, Mount Joy, PA 17552, and in the United Kingdom by Grantham Book Service, Trent Road, Grantham, Lincolnshire, NG31 7XQ.

CONTENTS

Introduction

PART 1

DECK DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION

CHAPTER 1

SAFETY

Personal Protective Equipment

Hand Tools and Power Tools

Step and Extension Ladders

Stains, Paints, and Other Chemicals

CHAPTER 2

DECK BUILDING TOOLS

Measuring and Layout

Power Saws, Drills, and Sanding

Hand Tools and Fastening

Accessories

Excavation and Concrete

Rental Equipment

CHAPTER 3

MATERIAL TYPES AND ESTIMATING FOR DECKS

Lumber and Availability

Lumber Species

Lumber Defects

Synthetic Decking

Concrete

Fasteners

Deck Hardware

CHAPTER 4

YOU AND YOUR DECK

Beginning the Process

Choosing a Design

Improving Your House and Yard

Design Challenges

Overlooked Deck Locations

Final Drawings

CHAPTER 5

BUILDING TECHNIQUES

Measuring and Marking

Cutting Using a Circular Saw

Nailing

Drills and Screw Guns

Decay-Resistant Design

Laying Out and Cutting Curves

CHAPTER 6

FOOTINGS AND FOUNDATIONS

Laying Out the Deck

Distributing the Load

Site Work

Footings

Digging Postholes

Pouring Concrete

CHAPTER 7

DECK FRAMING

Framing Basics

Sizing and Spacing Frame Members

Ledger Designs

Attaching Ledgers

Positioning the Posts

Making and Installing Beams

Joist Layouts

Using Practical Tools

Framing Hardware

Installing Floor Joists

Building Around Trees

Floor Bridging

Framing a Curved Section

Decking Over a Slab

CHAPTER 8

INSTALLING DECKING

Decking Options

Installing Wood Decking

Installing Synthetic Decking

Fascia Boards and Skirting

Estimating Materials

CHAPTER 9

STAIRS

Stairway Design Options and Layouts

Stairway Layout Mathematics

Installing a Platform

Installing a Landing

Stair Stringer Layout

Building the Stairs

Stair Stringer Cutting

CHAPTER 10

RAILINGS

Railing Design Choices

Railing Materials

Installing Railings and Balusters

Building a Composite Railing

Installing a Plastic Rail Kit

Installing the Stair Rails

CHAPTER 11

SPLIT LEVEL DECK DESIGN

Instructions

Plans

PART II

GALLERY OF PROFESSIONAL DECKS

CHAPTER 12

DECKS BY KIEFER

Techniques, Tips, and Tricks

Sleek Retreat

Raised Deck with Sweeping Overlook

Front Porch/Deck for a Corner Lot

Veranda with Turned Balusters

Multi-Retreats on Multilevels

Elevated Deck with a Sweeping Staircase

CHAPTER 13

BARRETT OUTDOORS

Techniques, Tips, and Tricks

Curvy Party Deck

Relaxation Station

CHAPTER 14

CASA DECKS

Techniques, Tips, and Tricks

Floating Octagons with Walkways

Aboveground Pool Surround

Twin Decks Surrounding a Porch

Cozy Deck with Benches and Planter

Making a Square Deck Livelier

A Deck Built for Entertaining

Poolside Deck

A Shaded Area to Enjoy the Views

Small Details Enhance Great Views

CHAPTER 15

ROLLING RIDGE DECK AND OUTDOOR LIVING

Techniques, Tips, and Tricks

Log Cabin Chic

Scallops and Curves

Private Family Room

Rocky Mountain High Life

CHAPTER 16

ALL DECKED OUT

Techniques, Tips, and Tricks

Sweeping Elegance in a Small Space

Sheltered but Open

Shady Garden Spot

Soaking and Dining Areas with Shingled Siding

Stately and Symmetrical

Promenade with Circular Viewing Area

CHAPTER 17

DECKS APPEAL

Techniques, Tips, and Tricks

Freestanding Deck with Spa and Firepit

Circular Eating Area

Two Low Levels with Angles and an Overhead

Glossary

INTRODUCTION

Adding a new deck is one of the most popular ways to enhance the outdoor living area of your home. Decks make entertaining easy, providing a pleasant spot where you can enjoy the company of your family and friends. Or use your deck as a private getaway—a spot to enjoy a good book or take a nap in the warm afternoon sun.

Ultimate Guide: Decks provides both building knowledge and design inspiration. You’ll learn how to build a deck, including information on framing, decking, and stairs. Use the appendices to brush up on tools, materials, and construction techniques. The second section contains 30 unique deck designs to help you envision the deck of your dreams.

Adding curves, left, to a deck makes the design more appealing and distinctive. Built-in benches add to a deck’s usefulness.

GUIDE TO SKILL LEVEL

Easy. Made for beginners.

Challenging. Can be done by beginners who have the patience and willingness to learn.

Difficult. Can be handled by most experienced do-ityourselfers who have mastered basic construction skills. Consider consulting a specialist.

Note: If you have a window within 5 feet of a hot tub or the bottom tread of a set of stairs or within 3 feet from any of the stair treads, it will require safety glazing (tempered glass).

Deck design depends on how you want to use the deck, the shape of the house, and the size and terrain in your yard, among other things.

Benches, right, add seating and can provide a sense of enclosure. Entertainment features, like the wide railing cap for serving food, can be implemented as well. Note how the planters support the benches on this deck.

PART I

DECK DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION

CHAPTER

 1

SAFETY

PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT

HAND TOOLS AND POWER TOOLS

STEP AND EXTENSION LADDERS

STAINS, PAINTS, AND OTHER CHEMICALS

It is more than rules and guidelines it is a way of life to keep you safe.

Although the methods in this book have been reviewed for safety, it is not possible to overstate the importance of using the safest methods you can. What follows are reminders – some dos and some don’ts for working safely- to use along with your skills and using common sense.

Always use caution, care, and good judgement when following the procedures described in this book.

PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT

This category for safety can never be overlooked because this includes everything we wear and everything we need to wear to be safe which includes the following.

Safety glasses worn whenever work is to be performed to protect your eyes from dust and debris created when working with building materials. Additional care may need to be taken to include a face shield when cutting or grinding ferrous metals due to sparks and molten material slag from cutting.

Hearing protection in the form of ear plugs or earphones worn whenever you are using a circular saw, hammer drill, wet saw, gasoline powered cutoff saw or any other power equipment that creates loud or high pitch sounds.

Dust masks in the form of disposal N-95 masks or charcoal filtered respirators when sawing concrete, bricks, pavers, wood, and other exterior materials. Masonry materials contain silica and is harmful to your lungs. Other materials of older homes may contain asbestos in the siding material as well.

Work Clothes that are form fitting and not extremely loose along with sleeved shirts to protect exposed skin from the sun and other hazards on the project is very important. Long sleeve shirts are beneficial any time of the year when working around fiberglass house insulation. Work boots worn can help prevent a nail protruding from a board from going through the sole compared to wearing soft sole shoes or sneakers around the project.

Jewelry such as necklaces can be a hazard when using rotary tools such as drills and often can be a distraction when working. It is always best to remove any hanging jewelry and considered any rings on your fingers as these can get trapped on ladder rungs and cause extreme pain and or damage to your fingers.

Gloves are a good idea when handling materials, performing demolition, digging, using wheelbarrows and heavy power tools. Blisters created in the palm of your hands take time to heal or become infected and slow down the progress on the project. Use of gloves is also a good idea to prevent scratches from occurring if nail tips protrude through wood.

HAND TOOLS

Hammers are one of the most widely used tools on a project and come in many shapes, sizes, and weights. Use of a hammer requires the right one for the job and one that is comfortable for you to use and must always maintain good working condition of the steel head and the handle it is attached to. Never swing a hammer with a loose head it will create an extremely dangerous situation.

Screwdrivers come in all sorts of sizes and configurations. Always use the right one for the fastener you are trying to tighten or loosen. Using the incorrect one will damage the screw head and then require additional work and tools to complete the operation. Never use a flat blade screwdriver as a chisel.

Utility knives are very important to have to complete several tasks on the project from unpacking materials to cleaning a shoulder saw cut to sharpening our carpenter pencils. In any case make sure the knife has a retractable blade that sharp in good condition. Always store replacement blades in the knife handle if applicable.

Chisels are important to have on the project and the right size chisel for the work being performed is key, When cleaning a dado cut in a 4x4 post use the widest chisel you have, preferably 1" or wider. When cleaning out a narrow slot use the narrowest chisel you have, preferably ¼". Never use wood chisels on metal or metal chisels on wood.

Handsaws are very important on the project where a power saw may not do the job in tight spaces or if electric isn’t available. Using the right hand saw for the right job is important and always keep the saw in a dry safe place when not in use.

Nail Punch can be extremely handy to have on the project. The are available in small, medium, and large point. These can be very useful in removing nails if the head breaks off, making a dimple for starting a screw in a tight space and other functions. Always wear safety glasses when using a nail punch because you are striking a steel punch with a steel hammer and the punch head could mushroom and pieces of metal could fly off and strike you or someone in the area.

Do not leave hand tools on top of step ladders, sawhorses, or other surfaces. These tool when not in use should be placed in your special purpose tool belt for ready availability and safety on the project.

POWER TOOLS

Electrical power tools require 120- volt ac current from the house or a stand-alone generator. In either case make sure the electrical system includes the use of a GFCI receptacle, circuit, or assured grounding cord with GFCI protection included with the cord.

Always use power tools that are in good working condition with plastic exterior housings that are double insulated to protect the user from electrical hazards and faulty ground situations that can start a tool without an operator activating the trigger.

Older tools that are made of aluminum housing may not be double insulated.This creates a shock hazard from faulty grounds, wet areas including damp grass from the overnight dew and other hazards. These older tools can be used if they and their cords, including the third ground lug are in good condition and the extension cord and the circuit they are being connected to has a proper ground connection for the house and a 3- prong receptacle is being used. Otherwise, do NOT use them, as hazardous conditions and sever electrical shock can occur.

Circular saws are the most widely used and adaptable power tool available for the project. Be sure it and the cord, along with the plug are in good working order. Be sure the spring loaded retractable lower guard operates freely and the guard returns to the normal position covering the blade teeth when resting on a surface.

Make sure that both your circular saw and its cord are in good condition, as shown above. The guard should easily return to its normal position, covering the blade, when resting on a surface, right.

Rotary drills are available in many sizes and configurations. Using a rotary drill with a cross handle will be required when drilling any size hole with an auger style bit or anytime you are drilling overhead. Otherwise, the self-feeding design of an auger bit will severely twist your wrist if the bit becomes jammed in the wood hole. Always use the chuck key in each of the three holes to tighten the drill bit correctly and remove the chuck key before operating the drill.

Blades and bits for attaching to power tools are critical that they be in good working condition, correct size and style for the tool being used and a clear understanding of how the blade or bit is attached safely to the power tool. Installing a blade or bit backwards can cause injury and damage to the person and the project.

Always use the right power tool for the right job. A circular saw can be used to perform many cutting functions but should not be used in lieu of a power planer. A rotary drill with too small of a bit should not be used to elongate the smaller hole so a larger fastener will fit through the elongated hole.

Read, understand, and follow the operation instructions of all power tools. If the instruction sheet is missing, use the internet to download the instructions of any tool. It is also advisable to download a current video on how to use any power tool you are unfamiliar with before using.

Working and cutting materials with power tools you should always remember the object being cut is fixed while the blade performing the cut is moving. Therefore, certain precautions are required to be safe and not damage the material being cut or cause injury to yourself.

1. Always work with sufficient space, lighting and within proximity of your material pile, when possible, to be as efficient and safe as possible. Flat and level ground is preferred but flat and uncluttered ground provides the safest environment to perform your work.

2. Never operate power or hand tools when tired, rushed for time or under the influence of alcohol or drugs. Always understand the side effects of medication you have taken before using these tools.

3. Always keep your hands free from the cutting area and both hands should be on the handles of the tool to assure they are clear of any danger.

4. Never use your leg as a support or in lieu of a sawhorse when using a circular saw or any tool.

5. Always disconnect the power cord or remove the battery on DC powered tools before installing or replacing blades and bits.

6. Clamp or otherwise attach the material to sawhorses or other fixed surfaces to prevent the material from moving during cutting.

7. Never cut any piece of material between sawhorses as this will create a binding condition of the blade and will result in damaging the materials or injuring the operator. Have additional supporting material under the material being cut and set the depth of the blade to the proper depth to not cut through the lower supporting material.

8. Never pin or clamp open the retractable blade guard of a circular saw or miter saw.

9. Always use hold down and push sticks when running material across a table saw to prevent kickbacks. Also DO NOT STAND BEHIND THE BLADE, injury will occur to you if a kick back occurs. Stand to the side of the blade.

10. Never cut any short piece of material using a circular saw as it may become lodged in the lower retractable guard causing the saw to bind, damage the material or it becomes free before the saw blade stops rotating. Cut a short piece from a longer or full piece that is clamped or attached securely before cutting.

STEP AND EXTENSION LADDERS

Falls are the leading cause of deaths in the field of all construction. The preferred height to be standing safely is always on the ground. However, the building industry requires other heights other than on the ground! Using any ladder starts with using the correct ladder for the job.

Stepladders are available in heights from 2' to 14' but most commonly are 6' and 10' high ladders. Ladders are rated for the maximum weight limit allowed and fiberglass ladders are color coded to match the weight class. Aluminum ladders are not fully color coded, but each top tray is color coded to match the weight limit as well.

Extension ladders are available in lengths from 12' to 40'. Fiberglass ladders are the most widely used styles to prevent electrical shock from power lines. The color coding by the weight class is the same as used for fiberglass step ladders. Aluminum extension ladders have the top end caps color coded to match the weight class.

Each rung is spaced 12" apart so it is easy to determine the length of an extension ladder. Count the rungs in one section and multiply times 2.

Ladder safety starts with using the ladder correctly by always facing your work as you walk up and down the ladder rungs for both step and extension ladders. It may seem odd to place the step ladder with the rungs parallel to the surface you are working on, yet this provides the best working stability when the ladder is placed level.

Every ladder has caution labels attached. Read, understand, and follow these instructions to assure proper and safe use of the ladder assuring the safety of the operator.

CAUTION: All ladders should be set 10' minimum in horizontal distance from any overhead power line to prevent arcing of electrical current from the overhead wire and the operator on a ladder.

Placing a ladder on unlevel ground can be challenging but remember NOT to place material under the bottom of a leg(s)above the ground surface, BUT to dig out the ground where the opposite leg(s) are touching the ground enough to have the leg(s) in the air touch solid ground. Pieces of wood as shims under leg(s) can shift and become unstable causing the operator on the ladder to fall.

Extension ladders have a label with an “L” printed on the side. The long side of the ‘L” will be vertical when the ladder is not too steep or set too shallow for safe use. If the label is missing or unreadable after setting the ladder to the building, stand with the front of your legs against the bottom rung. Reach out horizontally with your hands and your fingers should easily touch the back of the ladder rails. OSHA requires the distance the bottom of the ladder is away from the building at the back is ¼ of the height of the ladder in use.

STAINS, PAINTS, AND OTHER CHEMICALS

Always read and follow the manufacturers labels for safe use, care and clean up when finished and the proper storing or disposal of any rags or brushes used to apply the material.

Never leave a rag or brush with stain on it in direct sunlight to avoid spontaneous combustion. Always use materials in well ventilated areas.

Always wear appropriate PPE items when working with these materials including, rubber gloves. Safety glasses, masks, and other pertinent safety precautions.

CHAPTER

 2

DECK BUILDING TOOLS

MEASURING AND LAYOUT

POWER SAWS, DRILLS, AND SANDING

HAND TOOLS AND FASTENING

ACCESSORIES

EXCAVATION AND CONCRETE

RENTAL EQUIPMENT

A fairly modest set of tools is all you need to build basic decks. For the most part, they are the tools you would normally find in a homeowner’s toolbox. However, building a deck is a big project and some power tools will make the work go faster. Consider investing in good miter and circular saws; they will prove invaluable on the job site. A goodquality drill/driver will make the drilling of holes and the driving of screws go smoothly. Beyond that, you might want to consider additional purchases carefully. If you will rarely use the tool after the deck project is completed, is it really worth the price? And if there’s a tool you’ve just got to try, consider renting it for a day instead of buying it for a lifetime.

MEASURING AND LAYOUT

Angle Square. Often called by the brand name Speed Square, this triangular piece of aluminum is extremely versatile, yet it is tough enough to get banged around on the project and not lose its accuracy. Its triangular shape enables you to lay out a 45-degree angle as quickly as a 90-degree angle; it also enables you to find other angles quickly, though not with great precision. You will probably find it the most useful of all the squares you may own. Fig A

Carpenter’s Level. An accurate carpenter’s level is crucial, and its length is proportionate to its accuracy when building a deck. A 4-foot level is a good choice, but a 6-foot will provide better accuracy over longer lengths of framing materials. A level made of wood and brass is more durable than the cheaper aluminum levels but not necessarily more accurate. An aluminum model is an excellent choice for the occasional carpenter.

Take care of your level; all it takes is one good drop or a hard hit to make it inaccurate. Test the level regularly, especially before you buy it. To test, set the level on a smooth surface, and note the bubble. Flip the tool endfor-end and put it in the same spot. The bubble should read the same distance between the lines. To check for plumb accuracy, place the level on a vertical surface such as a wall. Repeat the process when checking accuracy for level. Fig. B

Framing Square. This L-shaped piece of flat metal measures 16 inches along one edge and 24 inches along the other. Use it for laying out stair stringers and also for checking the squareness of your layouts and string lines and also for marking square cut lines on the face of 2x8, 2x10, and 2x12 boards. Fig. C

Post Level. If your design calls for any long posts, consider getting a post level. This very specialized but inexpensive tool straps onto the post, so you don’t have to keep holding up a level while you are moving heavy material. A post level usually has two bubble vials set at 90 degrees from each other so you can check for plumb in both directions at once. Some post levels use a single, round bull’s-eye vial to show perfect plumb instead This type may be less accurate and less desirable. Fig. D

Torpedo Level. You will find a 9-inch torpedo level handy for leveling small objects. It fits easily into your toolbox or pouch. It can be used to detect level, plumb, and 45-degree angle surfaces. Fig. E

USING A LASER LEVEL

Laser levels are quickly becoming indispensable tools not only for professional contractors but also avid do-it-yourselfers, too. They project bright level lines at 50 feet or more that are easily visible indoors. Models designed for outdoor use give you level readings much farther than that. Since you’ll likely be working mostly outside to build your deck, you’ll want to get a laser level with a laser detector or receiver component. That’s because it can be difficult to see the laser in bright daylight conditions. The detector is a separate instrument that beeps (loudly) and gives you a visual indication the closer it gets to level and sends out a solid tone when it’s exactly at level. It works much like a stud finder.

Self-leveling laser levels only need to be placed upon a roughly flat surface in order to give you accurate level lines to work with—the top of a step ladder on a flat area of ground, for instance. Generally, the self-leveling operation works as long as the base is within five degrees of level. (See “Accurate Leveling” on page 68.)

Measuring Tape. Purchase a high-quality measuring tape. A 25- or 30-foot tape is preferred, and a 1-inchwide blade is far superior to one that is ¾ inch wide, since it is more rigid and will not quickly fold when you extend it. Fig. F

Mason’s String Line. You’ll pull your string line very tight and it needs to last, so it’s a good idea to get the professional stuff—nylon is a good choice. They are also available on a wind-up plastic spool for ease of rewinding the string. Fig. G

Reel Measuring Tape. For large decks, where you are laying out long distances, it’s helpful to have a 50-foot or 100-foot reel measuring tape. This tool doesn’t automatically retract, like your 25-foot measuring tape— you wind in the plastic or metal tape the way you turn a fishing reel Be sure to keep a metal measuring tape dry after use to avoid corrosion of the metal tape. Fig. H

Chalk-Line Box. The tool that aligned the ancient pyramids, a chalk line will enable you to mark long, perfectly straight lines in just a few seconds. Use blue chalk because the other colors are so permanent that they often can’t be washed away.

Carpenter’s Pencils. Have plenty of pencils on hand— they have a tendency to disappear. Flat carpenter’s pencils are better than regular pencils because they need sharpening less frequently with the use of your utility knife. A special sharpener is available for carpenter pencils too. Fig. J

LAYOUT TOOLS (A) angle square, (B) 4-ft. level, (C) framing square, (D) post level, (E) torpedo level, (F) measuring tape, (G) string, (H) reel tape, (I) chalk-line box, (J) pencil, and (K) plumb bob.

Plumb Bob. To pinpoint the location of posts, you will need to drop a perfectly straight vertical line from a given spot, or an intersection of two string lines above the ground. A plumb bob hangs from a string and tapers to a sharp point. Once the bob stops swinging, gravity ensures that the top of the string and the tip of the point are in perfect plumb alignment. The tapered shape of many chalk-line boxes allows them to double as suitable plumb bobs. Fig. K

POWER SAWS, DRILLS, AND SANDING

Power Miter Saw. If you need to make a lot of angle cuts or if you don’t feel able to make consistent, precise cuts at all angles, it may be a good idea to buy or rent a power miter saw. These tools are simply circular saws mounted on a pivot assembly that allows you to make precise, repeatable cuts. Make sure you get a miter saw that will do the job: a saw with a 10-inch blade will not be able to completely cut a 2x6 at a 45-degree angle 12 inch miter saws are better for this.

Sliding Compound Miter Saw. Another version of the miter saw, called the compound miter saw, makes both miter and bevel cuts in one pass. This tool is very common, and helpful for building decks. 12" is the most common size for this tool.

A sliding compound miter saw can be very helpful for making miter and bevel cuts in one pass when building a deck.

Circular Saw. Most carpenters and do-it-yourselfers prefer circular saws that use 7¼-inch-diameter blades. This size will allow you to cut to a maximum depth of about 2⅜ inches at 90 degrees and to cut through a piece of two-by lumber even with the blade beveled at 45 degrees.

You can get a rough idea of a saw’s power and overall quality from the amperage the motor draws and the type of bearings it uses. A low-cost saw will pull only 9 or 10 amps and will run its drive shaft on sleeve bearings. This will mean less power, a shorter life, a tendency to heat up during continual use, and sometimes less precise cuts because the blade might wobble a bit.

Better saws carry a 12- or 13-amp rating and use ball bearings or roller bearings on the motor’s shaft. These can also include an electronic brake to slow down the brake rotation when finished cutting. This combination of extra power and smoother operation makes for long life and more precise cutting. As is often the case, a midpriced model may well be your best choice.

Worm-drive saws have the most powerful motors and the longest-lasting bearings. They’re built like tanks and weigh almost as much. These are primarily professional contractor’s tools, and they take some getting used to. They last quite a long time, but do-it-yourselfers should probably avoid them.

A plastic housing is no longer the sign of an inferior tool, because many new plastic composites are actually tougher than metal and highly impact resistant.

Check out the saw’s base carefully: if it is made of thin, stamped metal, one drop from sawhorse height could bend it out of shape for good. Look for a thicker base that is either extruded or cast aluminum.

Use carbide-tipped blades in your circular saw. These cost a few dollars more but last up to five times longer than comparable blades made from high-speed steel (HSS). A 24-tooth blade is usually the best choice for deck construction and general use. There is a trade-off between the number of teeth and cut rates and quality: a blade with fewer teeth will cut faster, but the cuts will tend to be ragged. More teeth will produce a finer cut. Have an extra blade on hand; wet wood and dense treated lumber can dull your saw’s blade quickly.

Though you can use a file to touch up a damaged tooth on an HSS blade, send it to a sharpening shop when it needs a major tune-up. Take your carbide-tipped blades to a professional sharpening shop as well.

Router. Though by no means essential for deck-building, a router equipped with a chamfering or roundover bit can be quite handy for adding detail to your deck.

Belt Sander. Use a belt sander to clean up your decking and to round off the edge of the deck and railings as a finishing touch. Use this tool with care; it’s easy to oversand, especially if you are working with soft wood such as cedar or redwood. Use 180 or 220 grit belts.

Reciprocating Saw. For demolition and for cutting off posts, a reciprocating saw works well, but don’t buy one just for building a deck—a handsaw will work fine for the few cuts of this kind on your deck.

Saber Saw. This is a good choice if you need to make cutouts or if you want to make some curved cuts. If you need to do a lot of this kind of cutting, purchase a heavyduty saber saw. Newer models have oscillating blades with an air exhaust to displace the dust from cutting. With a standard do-it-yourself model, you’ll cut through two-by lumber very slowly and the saw will have a tendency to wobble, which produces a ragged-looking cut.

Pad Sander. A vibrating or oscillating pad sander is great for smoothing decking and railings, but a sanding block will often suffice for a deck project.

Sanding Block. A more common tool for rounding off sharp edges and smoothing splinters is the sanding block. There are several types, and they are all far superior to simply using a sheet of handheld sandpaper.

Handsaw. This tool comes in handy for finishing cuts that a circular cannot finish—such as when you are cutting out stringers or cutting off posts in awkward places.

Chisel. This is useful for cleaning out dado cuts, finishing notch cuts, and other trimming and woodshaving tasks. A 1-inch-wide chisel works well for this kind of work.

Aviation Snips. For trimming metal flashing at the ledger, metal snips are the most accurate tool.

CUTTING AND SANDING TOOLS (A) power miter saw, (B) circular saw, (C) router, (D) belt sander, (E) reciprocating saw, (F) saber saw, (G) pad sander, (H) sanding block, (I) handsaw, (J) chisel, and (K) aviation snips.

HAND TOOLS AND FASTENING

Compressor and Nail Gun. If you plan to frame or fasten your deck with a nail gun, you’ll need a compressor to supply the air. Choose carefully—if the compressor is too small, you’ll waste lots of time waiting for it to supply enough pressure for the next shot. A typical framing nailer shoots nails from 2 to 31/ inches long. Choose one with a restrictive or two-step trigger—this makes it much harder to fire a nail accidentally. Though safe when used properly, a nail gun can cause serious injury in a fraction of a second, so read, follow, and understand all safety precautions, especially the part about wearing safety glasses.

Cordless Drill. If it’s in the budget, a cordless drill is very useful. Thanks to advances in battery technology, cordless drills have taken over most tasks you’d otherwise do with a corded drill. The most notable exception in deck building is installing decking—a corded drill still makes sense for that task since even today’s batteries will soon run out of power under such concentrated use. You can now buy a powerful 20-volt drill that is quite compact, well-balanced, and easy to handle. A good cordless drill will come with a charger and an extra battery so that you’ll always have a fresh battery available.

Read the owner’s manual carefully, especially the part about charging batteries. Don’t wait until a battery is completely dead before you charge it—pop it in the charger as soon as it starts to show signs of weakening. New cordless tools use Lithium-Ion batteries and care must be taken not to overcharge them.

Pipe Clamps. Pipe clamps are sometimes helpful for holding pieces of lumber in place temporarily—so you can check the level one last time before fastening, for example.

Bar Clamps. Bar clamps do some of the same jobs that pipe clamps do, but are usually a little easier to set up. You can adjust some models with just one hand so you have the other hand free to hold things in place.

C-Clamps. A pair of large C-clamps is useful when you need to reach past obstructions to apply pressure to the center of a board. Squeezing a pair of 2x12s on the outside of a 4x4 post prior to fastening is a good example.

Flat Bar and Wrecking Bar. The flat bar is more versatile, but the wrecking bar (sometimes called a crowbar) gives you more leverage. These are handy for demolition, such as removing siding before installing a ledger board, for prying deck boards into position, and for moving or breaking rocks you run into when digging holes.

Hammer. Your hammer is always at your side and constantly in use, so get a comfortable one. A 16-ounce hammer is a comfortable weight that will do the job, but the extra weight of a 20-ounce hammer will drive large nails more quickly. A straight-claw hammer is better for demolition work, while a curved-claw is better for pulling nails. Use of smooth-face hammers instead of waffle-face hammers will not mar the face of the finished wood surface.

Caulking Gun. Though it is used sparingly on a deck, there are places that benefit from a good bead of caulking.

Cat’s Paw. This tool is for pulling framing nails back out of wood. By striking the back of its claw with a hammer, you can drive it under a nailhead, even if the head is below the surface. Then you push or strike the top of the tool to pull the nail out. A cat’s paw always gets its nail but often seriously mars the face of the board in the process.

Nail Set. For places where the nails will show, you want to avoid the smiles and frowns caused by the hammer hitting the wood when you strike the nail with that last blow. Use a nail set, a small shaft of metal with one square end and one end tapered to a blunt point. With this, you can either drive nails perfectly flush with the wood or countersink them into the wood.

Utility Knife. No carpenter’s apron should be without a utility knife. You’ll use this inexpensive tool for all sorts of things: sharpening pencils, slicing away splinters from boards, shaving pieces of lumber, and opening bundles and packages. Get a better-quality, heavy-duty knife. Blades of cheap knives can slip out when you bear down hard. Replace a blade as soon as it gets dull. Be sure to get a retractable knife.

Zip Tool. A zip tool is used to unlock the joints between courses of vinyl siding. You’ll find it handy if you are removing vinyl siding to install a ledger.

Ratchet Wrenches. If you will be installing lag screws or carriage bolts, a ratchet wrench with the right socket is much faster than a crescent wrench.

FASTENING TOOLS (A) nail gun and compressor, (B) drill, (C) pipe clamps, (D) bar clamps, (E) C-clamps, (F) pry bar, (G) hammer, (H) caulking gun, (I) cat’s paw, (J) nail set, (K) utility knife, (L) zip tool, (M) ratchet.

ACCESSORIES

Tool Belt or Apron. A tool belt or apron is a definite must; without it, you will spend untold hours looking for that tool you used just a few minutes ago. It also stores your tools in a safe place, so they don’t fall off surfaces like the top of a stepladder and hit someone. You can get an elaborate leather belt or a less-expensive canvas one. The belt should comfortably hold those objects you use most during a working day: your square, measuring tape, hammer, chalk-line box, nail set, chisel, pencils, and utility knife; and it should have a pocket for a good-size handful of nails. Be sure you can holster and unholster your hammer, pencil, and measuring tape with ease.

Hammer Holster. When you know you’re going to do nothing but drive nails for a while, you might want to drop the full tool belt and put on a simpler tool holder with just one pocket and a hammer loop.

Extension Cord. Always check the wire-gauge number on an extension cord—the phrase heavy-duty on the package doesn’t guarantee that it will supply enough current to your tools. In general, an extension cord with 14-gauge wires, designed to handle up to 15 amps, will have an orange colored outer jacket. A 12-gauge wire designed to handle up to 20 amps will have a yellow colored outer jacket. Use the correct cord for the breaker capacity you are connecting to by looking at the rating of the circuit breaker.

Stepladder. Available in wood, aluminum, or fiberglass, stepladders are a handy tool if you are working on a flat, level surface. A fold-down shelf can hold tools and finishing materials. Stepladders are available up to 15 feet high. As with other ladders, they are rated for the amount of weight the they can hold. Although they are sturdy when extended, do not stand on or above the rung labeled as such for safety purposes. See page 15 for stepladder safety precautions.

Sawhorses. Usually used to set up a temporary cutting station, sawhorses should be strong and stable.

Small Sledgehammer. For driving stakes, a standard 16-or 20-ounce hammer will usually do the job, but a small 3-pound sledgehammer is faster.

Tool Bag. A tool bag is a great way to transport and organize all those tools that don’t earn a permanent place in your tool belt.

SOME USEFUL ACCESSORIES (A) nail aprons, (B) hammer holster and belt, (C) extension cords with GFCI protection, (D) stepladder, (E) leather tool belt, (F) sawhorses, either plastic, steel, or made with 2x4s and metal brackets.

EXCAVATION AND CONCRETE

Hoe. A standard garden hoe is handy for mixing concrete; a special mason’s hoe, which has two holes in the blade, works even better. Fig. C

Metal Rake. For spreading soil or gravel, and for sloping a site for drainage, a metal rake, or garden rake, is the best tool. Fig. G

Posthole Digger. Whether you use tubular concrete forms or pour your concrete directly into the ground, you will need to dig deep, narrow holes for your footings (if you live in a region with frost) or shallow and broad (if you live in an area that does not reach freezing temperatures). Essentially two mini-shovels hinged together, a posthole digger picks up dirt in “bites” as you spread the handles. This tool allows you to work directly above the hole without creating sloping sides. Fig. B

Round-Point Shovel. The most basic digging tool there is, the round-point shovel gets plenty of use on a deck site, from excavating to spreading gravel. Use a file to keep the edge of the shovel sharp—it’ll cut through small roots like a hot knife through butter. Fig. D

Square-Nosed Shovel. The front edge of this shovel is perfect for cutting sod when you need to remove grass from your building site. You’ll also find that this is the best shovel for scooping up dirt or gravel from a driveway. Fig. F

EXCAVATION TOOLS (A) wheelbarrow, (B) posthole digger, (C) standard garden hoe, (D) round-point shovel, (E) selection of trowels including a finishing trowel and a pointing trowel, (F) square-nosed shovel with a sharp front edge, (G) metal garden rake.

Trowels. For finishing and shaping concrete, a selection of trowels will be useful.

•Steel Finish TrowelFig. E

•Pointing TrowelFig. F

Wheelbarrow. This is a handy place to mix and transport small amounts of concrete. You’ll also use your wheelbarrow to transport gravel, soil, sod, and sand. Fig. A

RENTING TOOLS

When you need a specialized tool for just a few hours, check with your local rental yard. Chances are they have what you need and will rent it to you by the hour, day, week, or month. Some yards even rent by the half day, so if you’re fast, you can save a little money. Think carefully before renting any small tools for longer than a week: after a point, it makes more sense to go out and buy the tool yourself.

A power auger makes short work of digging holes for posts, but the tools often require two people to operate safely.

CHAPTER

 3

MATERIAL TYPES AND ESTIMATING FOR DECKS

LUMBER AND AVAILABILITY

LUMBER SPECIES

LUMBER DEFECTS

SYNTHETIC DECKING

CONCRETE

FASTENERS

DECK HARDWARE

While the universe of materials used to build decks continues to expand, preservative-treated lumber is still the most popular choice. The material is relatively inexpensive; it resists insects and rot; and it is readily available. However, many homeowners and professional deck designers are turning to other materials, such as redwood, exotic hardwoods, and synthetic materials, for the decking and railing systems— the areas that are in full view. These products offer a variety of looks that cannot be matched by preservative-treated lumber. In most cases, preservative-treated lumber is still used for the structural portions of the deck, including posts, beams, and joists.

LUMBER AND AVAILABILITY

Because your deck is out in the weather all the time, you want to use wood that will resist decay and insects.

There are several choices, but the most popular are treated lumber, redwood, and cedar. Other options include cypress, synthetic decking, and Brazilian hardwood.

To get the wood that’s right for your project, it’s not enough to choose a certain species. Other factors that influence a wood’s performance include moisture content, method of drying the wood, what part of the tree the lumber comes from, and the quality, or grade, of each piece.

Lumber Basics

Most of the lumber you buy is surfaced—smoothed, with rounded edges—on all four sides. This is called S4S, meaning surfaced on four sides. If you want a roughsawn look (for the fascia or for posts, perhaps), you should be able to find cedar or redwood that is either rough all over or is smooth on only one side. This lumber may be a bit thicker and wider than S4S.

LUMBER GRAIN

All trees have two types of wood inside: sapwood and heartwood. Sapwood is located toward the perimeter of the tree and carries sap to the branches. Heartwood comes from the center of the tree and is denser than sapwood because it is older. It is also more stable than sapwood. All parts of the tree can be used, and lumber taken from either the sapwood or heartwood region is graded accordingly. Because a lot of lumber today is cut from younger, faster-growing trees, you may find fewer distinctions between the heartwood and sapwood areas.

Lumber Sizes. The nominal size of a piece of lumber— for example, 2x4—refers to its size prior to drying and surfacing. So the 2x4 you buy will actually be 1½ inches by 3½ inches; a 2x6 is actually 1½ by 5½; a 1x8 is ¾ x 7¼, and so on. In most cases, lumberyards carry pieces in 2-foot increments beginning at 8 feet, so you can buy 8-footers, 10-footers, and up to 16' standard length and 24' maximum length.

Many people use either cedar or preservative-treated 5/4x6 (“five quarter by six”) boards for the decking and sometimes for the top cap on the railing. This material is actually 1 inch thick and 5½ inches wide. Rounded edges minimize splintering. Often only one face will be usable, so choose your boards carefully. To satisfy most codes and to build a strong deck, you will have to space joists no more than 12 inches on center to use this material.

Most people choose deck boards that are 5½ inches wide, such as 2x6 or 5/4x6, either because they like the wider appearance or because they are less work to install. But the price for wider boards is rising fast because more lumber now comes from smaller trees, so 2x4 decking is becoming a more economical choice. However, lumber prices tend to fluctuate, so it makes sense to price out both types.

Decking products must be able to withstand the extremes of weather. A seaside deck as above must endure the abrasive effect of sand, plus the corrosive effect of salt.

Lumber Density. As a general rule, lumber of greater density will be stronger but also more prone to splitting and warping. Likewise, lower-density wood is weaker and may splinter and twist less. This is because lowerdensity wood can act like a sponge, absorbing moisture when the weather is wet and drying when the sun comes out. Dense wood does not have the ability to transfer moisture quickly, and the internal stresses cause warping and splinters. Treating lumber does not affect density but only adds temporary weight in the form of moisture.

So higher-density wood—Douglas fir or southern yellow pine, for instance—works well for the substructure, where strength is important and splinters and warping do not matter as much. And because you want to avoid splinters on the decking and rails, lower-density wood, such as redwood or cedar, may be a better choice.

Heartwood and Sapwood. The wood near the center of the tree, which is inactive because it has not been growing for some time, is called heartwood. Lumber milled from this portion of the tree is more resistant to rot and insects and less porous than sapwood, which is taken from the area of the tree near the bark. This is a significant difference: decking made of redwood or cedar heartwood will last far longer than will sapwood decking of the same species. (The code only recognizes redwood and cedar as decay resistant when they have 90 percent or more heartwood on each face.)

Vertical and Flat Grain. Different sawing techniques at the mill yield different grain patterns on the boards. Lumber generally either has vertical grain, with narrow grain lines running along the face of the board, or flat grain (also called plainsawn), with wider lines that often form rippling V-shapes. Most boards are a combination of the two, and in any given load of lumber, you will find boards that are both primarily flat grained and primarily vertically grained.

Vertical grain is less likely to shrink and warp, and most people think it looks better. But you don’t have to go to the extra expense of specifying vertical grain when you order; when you choose boards, just pick as many of the ones with narrow lines as possible.

Moisture. Freshly cut trees delivered to a sawmill have a lot of moisture in them. And after sawing and surfacing, preservative-treated lumber gets saturated with liquid chemicals, making it even wetter. It dries out some before it gets to the lumberyard, but some lumber you buy may have a moisture content of 30 or 40 percent.

Wood that is wet—whether from natural moisture or from chemicals—will shrink as it dries out. Wood shrinks most across its width. The lengthwise shrinkage is minimal unless the board is especially long. Butt joints in a long run of decking may open up over time if the boards are installed wet. If your lumber has a moisture content (MC) of less than 20 percent, shrinkage and warping should be minimal.

The grade stamp on lumber indicates the moisture content, but don’t trust this number completely; wood can pick up moisture from rain or humidity while sitting in the lumberyard. Your local yard may be willing to check some boards with a moisture meter. If not, try driving a nail into a board and see if any water squeezes out around the shank. If it does, it’s too wet.

LUMBER GRADES

Number 1 grade of most common lumber has few, if any, knots.

Number 2 grade has more knots and defects than Number 1. It’s the type specified as a minimum requirement in most building codes.