Ultimate Guide to Basements, Attics & Garages, 3rd Revised Edition E-Book

Editors of Creative Homeowner

• Herausgeber: Creative Homeowner
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2020

Seitenzahl: 355

Beschreibung

Found space...that's what this book is all about. Learn how to maximize the usable but unfinished areas in your house as new living space for your growing family. No need for an expensive addition or going through the trouble of moving to a larger house. With more than 50 detailed step-by-step procedures and 580 full-color drawings and photographs to illustrate construction techniques, this book contains dozens of delightful design alternatives for your basement, attic, and garage. Some of the topics covered in Ultimate Guide to Basements, Attics & Garages include planning and design, installing skylights, finishing walls and ceilings, building stairs, framing floors, installing windows and doors, and much more. This new edition also includes updated information on current codes and materials.

Leseprobe

Copyright © 1996, 2006, 2020 Creative Homeowner

This book may not be reproduced, either in part or in its entirety, in any form, by any means, without written permission from the publisher, with the exception of brief excerpts for purposes of radio, television, or published review. All rights, including the right of translation, are reserved. Note: Be sure to familiarize yourself with manufacturer’s instructions for tools, equipment, and materials before beginning a project. Although all possible measures have been taken to ensure the accuracy of the material presented, neither the author nor the publisher is liable in case of misinterpretation of directions, misapplication, or typographical error.

Sheetrock is a registered trademark of USG Corporation.

Creative Homeowner® is a registered trademark of New Design Originals Corporation.

ULTIMATE GUIDE TO BASEMENTS, ATTICS & GARAGES, 3RD REVISED EDITION

Editor: Anthony Regolino

Technical Editor: David Schiff

Designer: John Hoch/David Fisk

Indexer: Schroeder Indexing Services

Ultimate Guide to Basements, Attics & Garages, 3rd Revised Edition (ISBN 978-1-58011-842-2, 2020) is a revised edition of Ultimate Guide to Basements, Attics & Garages, Second Edition (ISBN 978-1-58011-292-5, 2006), which was previously published as Remodeling Basements, Attics & Garages (978-1-58011-031-0).

Print ISBN 978-1-58011-842-2eISBN 978-1-60765-744-6

We are always looking for talented authors. To submit an idea, please send a brief inquiry to [email protected].

Creative Homeowner®, www.creativehomeowner.com, is an imprint of New Design Originals Corporation and distributed exclusively in North America by Fox Chapel Publishing Company, Inc., 800-457-9112, 903 Square Street, Mount Joy, PA 17552, and in the United Kingdom by Grantham Book Service, Trent Road, Grantham, Lincolnshire, NG31 7XQ.

Metric Equivalents

Length

1 inch

25.4mm

1 foot

0.3048m

1 yard

0.9144m

1 mile

1.61km

Area

1 square inch

645mm

2

1 square foot

0.0929m

2

1 square yard

0.8361m

2

1 acre

4046.86m

2

1 square mile

2.59km

2

Volume

1 cubic inch

16.3870cm

3

1 cubic foot

0.03m

3

1 cubic yard

0.77m

3

Common Lumber Equivalents

Sizes: Metric cross sections are so close to their U.S. sizes, as noted below, that for most purposes they may be considered equivalents.

Dimensional lumber

1 × 2

19 × 38mm

1 × 4

19 × 89mm

2 × 2

38 × 38mm

2 × 4

38 × 89mm

2 × 6

38 × 140mm

2 × 8

38 × 184mm

2 × 10

38 × 235mm

2 × 12

38 × 286mm

Sheet sizes

4 × 8 ft.

1200 × 2400mm

4 × 10 ft.

1200 × 3000mm

Sheet thicknesses

1⁄4 in.

6mm

3⁄8 in.

9mm

1⁄2 in.

12mm

3⁄4 in.

19mm

Stud/joist spacing

16 in. o.c.

400mm o.c.

24 in. o.c.

600mm o.c.

Capacity

1 fluid ounce

29.57 mL

1 pint

473.18 mL

1 quart

1.14 L

1 gallon

3.79 L

Weight

1 ounce

28.35g

1 pound

0.45kg

Temperature

Nail Size & Length

Penny Size

Nail Length

2d

1”

3d

11⁄4”

4d

11⁄2”

5d

13⁄4”

6d

2”

7d

21⁄4”

8d

21⁄2”

9d

23⁄4”

10d

3”

12d

31⁄4”

16d

31⁄2”

SAFETY

Although the methods in this book have been reviewed for safety, it is not possible to overstate the importance of using the safest methods you can. What follows are reminders—some do’s and don’ts of work safety—to use along with your common sense.

■ Always use caution, care, and good judgment when follojwing the procedures described in this book.

■ Always be sure that the electrical setup is safe, that no circuit is overloaded, and that all power tools and outlets are properly grounded. Do not use power tools in wet locations.

■ Always read container labels on paints, solvents, and other products; provide ventilation; and observe all other warnings.

■ Always read the manufacturer’s instructions for using a tool, especially the warnings.

■ Use hold-downs and push sticks whenever possible when working on a table saw. Avoid working short pieces if you can.

■ Always remove the key from any drill chuck (portable or press) before starting the drill.

■ Always pay deliberate attention to how a tool works so that you can avoid being injured.

■ Always know the limitations of your tools. Do not try to force them to do what they were not designed to do.

■ Always make sure that any adjustment is locked before proceeding. For example, always check the rip fence on a table saw or the bevel adjustment on a portable saw before starting to work.

■ Always clamp small pieces to a bench or other work surface when using a power tool.

■ Always wear the appropriate rubber gloves or work gloves when handling chemicals, moving or stacking lumber, working with concrete, or doing heavy construction.

■ Always wear a disposable face mask when you create dust by sawing or sanding. Use a special filtering respirator when working with toxic substances and solvents.

■ Always wear eye protection, especially when using power tools or striking metal on metal or concrete; a chip can fly off, for example, when chiseling concrete.

■ Never work while wearing loose clothing, open cuffs, or jewelry; tie back long hair.

■ Always be aware that there is seldom enough time for your body’s reflexes to save you from injury from a power tool in a dangerous situation; everything happens too fast. Be alert!

■ Always keep your hands away from the business ends of blades, cutters, and bits.

■ Always hold a circular saw firmly, with both hands if possible.

■ Always use a drill with an auxiliary handle to control the torque when using large-size bits.

■ Always check your local building codes when planning new construction. The codes are intended to protect public safety and should be observed to the letter.

■ Never work with power tools when you are tired or when under the influence of alcohol or drugs.

■ Never cut tiny pieces of wood or pipe using a power saw. When you need a small piece, saw it from a securely clamped longer piece.

■ Never change a saw blade or a drill or router bit unless the power cord is unplugged. Do not depend on the switch being off. You might accidentally hit it.

■ Never work in insufficient lighting.

■ Never work with dull tools. Have them sharpened, or learn how to sharpen them yourself.

■ Never use a power tool on a workpiece—large or small—that is not firmly supported.

■ Never saw a workpiece that spans a large distance between horses without close support on each side of the cut; the piece can bend, closing on and jamming the blade, causing saw kickback.

■ When sawing, never support a workpiece from underneath with your leg or other part of your body.

■ Never carry sharp or pointed tools, such as utility knives, awls, or chisels, in your pocket. If you want to carry any of these tools, use a special-purpose tool belt that has leather pockets and holders.

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION

CHAPTER 1

Design Basics

Underused Spaces

• Gaining Attic Access

• Gaining Basement Access

• Gaining Garage Access

Planning Rooms

• Planning a Kitchen

• Planning a Family Room/Playroom

• Planning a Bedroom

• Planning a Bathroom

• The New Garage

• Planning a Workshop

• Planning a Home Office

• Planning a Home Theater

Lighting

• Designing with Light

Design Ideas

CHAPTER 2

Sizing Up the Project

Surveying the Basement

• Types of Basement Walls

• Inspecting the Basement

Surveying the Attic

• Checking for Trusses

• Investigating the Attic

Surveying the Garage

Planning for Utilities

• Planning the HVAC System

• Planning the Electrical System

• Planning the Plumbing System

Abiding by Building Codes

• Knowing the Codes

• Following the Codes

CHAPTER 3

Preparation Work

Planning the Logistics

• Basement

• Attic

Wall Removal

• Removing Drywall

• Removing Plaster and Lath

• Removing Framing

• Removing a Non-Bearing Wall

• Removing Nails

• Removing Collar Ties and Kneewalls

Joists & Rafters

• Repairing a Joist or Rafter

• Installing Attic Ceiling Joists

Moisture Problems

• Eliminating Attic Moisture Problems

• Eliminating Garage Moisture Problems

• Eliminating Basement Moisture Problems

• Correcting Severe Water Problems

• Sump Pumps

• Installing a Submersible Sump Pump

CHAPTER 4

Building Stairs & Framing Floors

Basement Stairs

• Adding a Balustrade

• Adding a Partial Wall

Attic Stairs

• Installing a Handrail

Attic Floors

• Understanding Floor Loading

• Measuring a Floor for Loading

• Reading Span Tables

• Reinforcing a Floor

• Checking the Subflooring

• Installing Subflooring

Basement Floors

• Repairing Cracks in a Concrete Floor

• Painting a Concrete Floor

• Installing an Insulated Subfloor

Garage Floors

• Building an Elevated Subfloor

Design Ideas

CHAPTER 5

Attic Framing & Dormers

Building Partition Walls

• The Tip-Up Method

• Building a Wall in Place

• Building a Sloped Wall

• Installing Doors & Door Framing

Kneewalls

• Installing Structural Kneewalls

• Building a Nonstructural Kneewall

Insulation & Ventilation

• Ventilating the Roof

• Insulating an Attic Roof

• Adding Rigid Foam

Dormers

• Types of Dormers

• Planning a Dormer

• Building a Shed Dormer

• Building a Gable Dormer

CHAPTER 6

Basement & Garage Framing

Fastening Objects to Masonry

• Choosing Masonry Fasteners

Building Partition Walls

Insulating Masonry Walls

• Insulating with Fiberglass

• Installing Rigid Insulation

Garage Door Openings

Design Ideas

CHAPTER 7

Creating the Ultimate Garage

Rediscovering the Garage

Storage Systems

• Cabinet Systems

• Wall Systems

Flooring Options

• Upgrading Concrete

Garage Mechanicals

• Ventilation

• Lighting

CHAPTER 8

Doors, Windows & Skylights

Door Styles

• Preparing a Door Opening

• Installing a Prehung Door

• Building a Frame & Hanging a Door

• Installing Bypass Doors

• Installing Bifold Doors

Door Casing

• Installing Mitered Door Casing

Locksets

• Installing a Lockset

Window Installation

• Installing Gable-End Windows

• Framing the Window

• Installing the New Window

• Installing Flanged Windows

• Installing Garage-Conversion Windows

• Installing Window Trim

• Installing Basement Windows

• Replacing a Wood Window

• Beveling the Windowsill

• Installing Window Wells

Skylights & Roof Windows

• Skylight Basics

• Types of Skylights

• Installing a Skylight

CHAPTER 9

Wiring & Plumbing

Wiring

• Choosing the Right Cable

• Estimating Wiring Needs

• Stripping Cable & Wires

• Joining Wires

• Running Cable

• Running Cable in Open Walls

• Running Cable through Finished Walls

Installing Receptacles

• Wiring Middle-of-Run Receptacles

• End-of-Run Receptacles

Wiring Fixtures

• Wiring a Fixture in Line

• Wiring a Fixture Switched from a Loop

Wiring a Basement

• Wiring Raceway Systems

• Relocating Existing Wiring

• Wiring a Garage

Plumbing

• Getting Started

• Running Copper Water Supply Tubing

• Cutting Copper Pipe

• Soldering Copper Pipe

• Relocating Existing Supply Lines

Drainpipe Systems

• Connecting Plastic Pipe

• Using Neoprene Fittings

• Cutting Cast-Iron Pipe

• Securing Pipes

CHAPTER 10

Finished Walls & Ceilings

Posts & Beams

• Working with Posts

• Framing around a Post

• Boxing around a Post

• Working with Beams

• Concealing a Beam

• Concealing Ducts

• Concealing Soil Pipes

Finishing Walls & Ceilings

• Painting Masonry Walls

• Types of Drywall

• Installing Drywall

• Ceiling Drywall

• Using a Deadman

• Other Drywall Tools

• Drywall Finishing

• Preventing Joint Cracks

• Painting Drywall

• Acoustical Ceiling Tile

• Wood Planking

• Crown Molding

Design Ideas

CHAPTER 11

Flooring, Trim & Molding

Finish Flooring

• Underlayment

• Installing Plywood Underlayment

• Installing Hardwood Flooring

• Installing Wood Strip Flooring

• Finishing Wood Floors

• Installing Laminate Flooring

• Installing Vinyl Floor Tiles

• Installing Sheet Vinyl Flooring

Trim & Molding

• Trim versus Molding

• Types of Molding

• Coping & Installing Baseboard

CHAPTER 12

Gallery

RESOURCE GUIDE

GLOSSARY

PHOTO CREDITS

INTRODUCTION

LIKE THE OLD LADY WHO LIVED IN THE SHOE, sooner or later many homeowners find themselves overcrowded in their homes. Increasing the size of a house, however, doesn’t necessarily mean adding on more square footage. This book is designed to show you how to capitalize on under-used areas in your home and transform them so that they work for you. Steep-pitched attics, full basements, and attached garages are typically wide-open areas that have never been finished to the degree that a home’s normal living space has. You may be surprised at how easy and inexpensive it is to convert these free spaces into living areas—especially when compared with the large-scale commitments of adding on new rooms or the costs involved with purchasing a larger house.

Importance of Planning

The key to any successful (and enjoyable) home-conversion project is careful planning. Your home is like a good novel where each part relates to the others. By changing one room, especially if you incorporate an unused area such as an attic or basement, you’ve changed the way the other rooms of your home are used. Traffic patterns, storage, ventilation, light, heating costs, electricity loads, and the like all may be changed in the process. Add a new bathroom, and you change the demands for water. Alter the exterior appearance, and perhaps taxes will be affected. And that added space means an old room is now free for a new use. By converting the attic to a master bedroom suite, for instance, you free up the old master bedroom to become a much-needed home office. But the old bedroom may be inconvenient for office work; a better plan might be to convert this bedroom into a child’s bedroom and locate the office elsewhere. You need to consider, right from the beginning, how changes will affect the entire house.

Far too many novice do-it-yourselfers jump into remodeling projects with both feet before fully recognizing long-range goals and mapping out short-term strategies for completing specific steps in an organized and stress-free manner. Too often, home-conversion efforts end in frustration and failure because the owners moved too fast, without realizing that it was going to take longer than expected to finish certain jobs or that they were going to need more material than expected and went over budget. Give yourself plenty of time to plan the overall project, and visualize how you’ll accomplish the tasks that lay ahead.

STAIRS TO REMODELED BASEMENTS, opposite, can be merely functional or make a definitive design statement as shown here.

Before you start the project, consult with your local building department to determine which permits are needed and how you’re supposed to request the mandatory inspections by the building-department officials. Most do-it-yourselfers who have dealt with building-department officials in a reasonable fashion have walked away with more building knowledge than they had before they walked in the door. Don’t be afraid to ask questions. And of course, keep this book handy for reference.

Time Factor

Lastly, do yourself the biggest favor of all—allow plenty of time to complete the project. If you expect that your attic, basement, or garage conversion will take two months to complete, give yourself three months to get the job done. Every professional home remodeler will tell you that each job inevitably winds up posing a problem or two that had never been considered. You may have to confront out-of-plumb walls, newly found ground-water seepage problems, deteriorated structural members, and inferior workmanship done when the house was originally built. These obstacles and others like them are common, so if you come across one or two in your project, don’t despair. Take a deep breath, roll up your sleeves, and fix the problem. Look at the situation as an opportunity to learn something new about home repair and remodeling; then pat yourself on the back for allotting those extra few weeks in your schedule to finish the project completely and professionally.

SLOPING ATTIC CEILINGS, below, usually provide adequate head room and areas for built-in custom storage.

GARAGE CONVERSIONS can lead to new living spaces, or the garage can be outfitted with specialty products to be better organized.

You may also need the extra time to allow for the delivery of materials. In-stock items are usually not a problem. Special orders, however, can sometimes take longer than anticipated.

While the challenges are great, the rewards are even greater in making an existing home work better for you. You can create a custom house without incurring the costs of new construction, making your home fully realize its potential and often adding to its market value.

CHAPTER 1

Design Basics

Underused Spaces

Planning Rooms

Lighting

Design Ideas

Underused Spaces

If you have an unfinished attic or basement or an attached garage, your search for more space is over. These are the most obvious and popular areas for finishing. Note that in converting an attic, basement, or garage to living quarters, you’re transforming space that wasn’t designed for the kind of general access you’ll require once the project is done. Some modifications may be required to make the new living space easily accessible. And of course, with a basement you’ll want to ensure that water never gets into the space. Other candidates for conversion include porches and breezeways. And if you’re fortunate enough to have a two-story space, as in a garage with an attic space, you can co-opt some of that overhead space as a loft.

ATTICS are fine for long-term storage, but they also make good home offices and bedrooms as shown below.

HOUSES WITH BASEMENTS are prime candidates for expansion. Remodeling the basement shown right turned the unused space into a kitchen and family room.

Gaining Attic Access

Few houses are designed with an attic conversion in mind, so access routes are typically rudimentary. In some cases, the only access is through a hatch plate tucked into the ceiling of a closet. Other houses may have pull-down stairs, but these can’t legally be used to reach a finished attic. A standard, straight-run stairway is about 36 inches (91cm) wide and 11 to 13 feet (335–396cm) long without landings. You must allow at least 36 inches (91cm) for a landing at the top and bottom. Building codes require a minimum vertical clearance of 80 inches (203cm) at all points on the stairs.

GAINING ATTIC ACCESS. Code requires that stairs have at least 80 in. (203cm) of headroom measured vertically at the front edge of the steps. Where headroom is less than 80 in. (203cm), the attic floor must be cut away. The stairwell can be used for storage.

Locate the Stairway. First make two decisions: where will the stairway start and where will it end? Look for underused space below the attic. If a wall is removed from between two small rooms, the resulting larger room possibly could provide the needed space. A bedroom closet might be changed into a stairwell. You might even decide to sacrifice a small room to gain suitable access to the attic if doing so results in a net gain of floor space. Once you’ve found a starting place, you can determine where the stairway will end. Ample headroom at the top of the stair isn’t always easy to find in a room that has ceilings sloping to the floor. Terminating the top of the stairs near the center of the attic provides the greatest headroom above. You can place the stairway closer to attic walls, however, if its angle follows the angle of the roof. Another trick is to build a dormer over the stairwell. (See “Locate the Stairway,” below.)

LOCATE THE STAIRWAY. Look for underused spaces beneath the attic, or consider changing room configurations. Here, a stair replaces a closet (top). To conserve space, arrange the stairs so that they descend as they step toward the eaves (left). You can move the stairs even closer to the eaves by building a dormer to gain headroom (right).

AN UNUSED BASEMENT, ATTIC, OR GARAGE can provide space for a new family room.

L- and U-Shaped Stairs. If there’s not room for a straight-run stair, consider L- or U-shaped stairs. Though they’re harder to build, these stairs are more compact and don’t require the length of uninterrupted floor space needed by straight-run stairs.

Spiral Stairs. From a purely visual standpoint, there’s nothing quite like a set of spiral stairs. They come in kits and can be installed in a space as small as 48 inches in diameter but may be difficult for some people to use (particularly the elderly). It is also challenging, if not impossible, to get furniture up and down spiral stairs. Check your local building codes; some restrict the use of spiral stairs.

Gaining Basement Access

Access to basements isn’t easily altered without a great deal of remodeling work in other parts of the house. Basements are generally entered through stairways located near kitchen spaces.

Making Changes. Should you have a special reason for wanting to change the location of an interior basement stairway, consult with a building engineer or architect. The means by which a new access opening is made will most likely require serious structural changes in the original house design. The same goes for an existing exterior access. Any new point of entry will require cutting out a section of a foundation wall. This could prove costly, as the new opening will have to be structurally reinforced and the old opening securely sealed. It would be more advisable to alter the interior basement floor plan to make better use of the existing access point. If yours is a daylight or walk-in basement, where one wall is completely exposed, you can create the look of an above-grade room.

Gaining Garage Access

Depending upon your house’s interior floor plan, access from the garage conversion to the house could be changed. Since the garage wall is most likely framed with wood, you can cut in a new opening. You may want access to a home office in the garage conversion from a front door foyer, rather than from a kitchen. You must be aware of which walls are load-bearing because you’ll have to erect a temporary support while remodeling the wall.

Planning Rooms

Wiring is easy and inexpensive to install while walls are open but much more difficult to add when walls are closed. So be sure to consider all your present and future wiring needs, including television cable, phone lines, alarm systems, and more electrical outlets than you think you’ll need, especially if you are creating a home office or shop. Attics, basements, and garages tend to be removed from the rest of the house, so you might consider installing an intercom system.

Noise Control. Also think about controlling noise. Thick wall-to-wall carpeting and a high quality pad absorb much of the sound that otherwise passes through attic floors.

Give the same sound consideration to basement and garage conversions. Certainly, the noise you’d want to reduce for a basement, especially if you plan on bedrooms or an office in the space, would be that from upstairs. (See “Noise Control,” below.) For a workshop, consider insulation and soundproofing board on the walls that separate the shop from home living spaces. For a recreation room that may be separated from existing bedrooms by only a 2×4 (38×89mm) wall, you could install insulation in the existing wall, build a secondary wall 1 or 2 inches (2.5–5cm) away from that existing wall, fill the new wall with insulation, and cover it with soundproofing board.

SPIRAL STAIRS, below, make a dramatic design statement, but they are difficult for some people to use comfortably.

NOISE CONTROL. The easiest way to gain maximum soundproofing is to place fiberglass insulation and soundboard beneath the subfloor of an attic or in the ceiling space of a basement. Wall-to-wall carpeting and a carpet pad complete the system.

Room Dimensions. Building codes may vary from region to region with regard to ceiling heights and square footage for habitable rooms. Be certain to check with your local building department before starting any remodeling work.

According to most building codes, all habitable rooms must have at least 70 square feet (6.5m2) of area with not less than 84 inches (213cm) in each horizontal direction. For attic, basement, and garage conversions this standard is generally easy to meet, so from a practical standpoint the size of most rooms is governed primarily by the size of the furnishings to be used. Keep in mind that the lack of abundant natural light in a basement can make rooms feel more cramped than they might feel in an attic or garage conversion; don’t assume that a comfortable small room upstairs will feel the same if you replicate it downstairs.

Ceiling Heights. Building codes also normally require that living areas have a minimum ceiling height of 90 inches (229cm) over at least one-half of the space. The only exceptions are bathrooms, kitchens, and hallways, which can have a ceiling height of 84 inches (213cm). Note that the headroom clearances are from the finished ceiling to the finished floor.

Design Considerations. Establishing the best goals for your remodeling starts with knowing your lifestyle. Be aware that not everyone is likely to have the same priorities. Get to know your family as an architect or interior designer would. Interview everyone and invite suggestions. You might like more privacy to rest and relax, for instance, while a teenager may crave a space large enough to invite noisy friends over. Start with shared objectives; then compromise where interests conflict.

BUILDING CODES spell out ceiling-height restrictions that are based on how the finished room will be used.

BASEMENTS AND GARAGES are prime locations for home gyms.

Planning a Kitchen

Building or remodeling kitchens usually involves making them more efficient and perhaps expanding them into an adjacent area. It’s costly to move an entire kitchen. In planning an expansion, consider the orientation. It’s preferable to have the kitchen on the east or southeast to catch the morning sun and avoid afternoon sun. Kitchens generate their own heat and can become stifling with additional heat from the sun.

Planning a Family Room/Playroom

Determine the purpose of the family room first; then plan its position. You’ll avoid a room that’s underutilized because it doesn’t suit your family’s current real interests or needs.

A family room oriented to the south or west will have inviting natural light in the afternoon. It’s practical to place the family room/playroom near the kitchen. You can use it for casual eating, and parents can keep an eye on children from the kitchen while cooking. Plan outside access from the family room if you often use the yard, deck, or patio.

Attics as Family Rooms. Attics converted to playrooms or family rooms can be delightful. Removed from the rest of the house, they’re especially suited to more restrained family room uses such as television watching, board games, quiet hobbies, and the like. Children generally like the treehouse feeling an attic space provides, especially when interesting angles from dormers and ceilings can encourage a sense of play.

Basement Playrooms. The key to a great basement or garage playroom is versatility. Plan the space so that it can be used for a variety of activities. Wheeled storage cabinets, for example, can be rolled out of the way for large family gatherings and parties. Look for furniture that can be moved easily, build adaptable storage units, and install wall and floor surfaces that can withstand hard use.

There are no particular electrical requirements for the average playroom, but again, the best plan is a versatile one. Extra cable outlets provide the opportunity to place a television in various locations. Look closely at your family’s interests, and plan for anything that might involve electricity, including lighted shelves for collectibles or outlets for exercise and fitness equipment.

Room Sizes

The table below shows the minimum size of various rooms as set forth by the U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development. For your planning, however, note that these government standards are bare minimums. An additional column, with more desirable minimums, is also provided. (See here for metric equivalents.)

RoomHUD MinimumPreferred MinimumLiving room11 x 1612 x 18Family room/Den10½ x 10½12 x 16Great room—14 x 20Kitchen*——Master bedroom—12 x 16Other bedrooms8 x 1011 x 14Bathrooms (full)5 x 75 x 9

* The size of the kitchen will vary greatly with the selection of cabinets and the appliance layout.

Planning a Bedroom

Make sure any bedroom you plan is large enough to accommodate the size bed you want, along with any other furniture. The most important factor (and sometimes the most difficult) in bedroom planning is the provision of an emergency exit. Building codes generally require that every bedroom, including those in basements, have direct access to a window large enough for egress (at least 5 square feet [0.5m2]) or an exterior door that can be used in an emergency. In basements the door can’t lead to a bulkhead door.

All bedrooms should be removed from the activity rooms commonly shared. Create sound buffers by placing closets, bathrooms, and storage rooms between bedrooms and activity rooms. Parents also may want privacy from a child’s bedroom, especially if the child’s room also functions as playroom.

Closets. The design and size of closets in a bedroom depend in part on who is to use the room. A modestly sized closet will probably suffice in a guest bedroom, but a master bedroom calls for an extra-large closet. Manufacturers of closet shelving and storage systems are good sources for closet-design information. Such systems allow you to pack the most storage into the least amount of space. Consider building at least one cedar-lined closet to help keep moths away from clothing.

CLOSETS. When planning for closets in your conversion, take stock of the items that you have and allow for long and short hanging garments. Install shelves and drawers to accommodate other clothing or things you want stored in the closet. These are the standard sizes of closets typically found in bedrooms. Note that the walk-in closet is a minimum 84 in. (2m) wide and the single closet is a minimum 48 in. (1.2m) wide.

ALTHOUGH THE VIEW may be lacking, basements usually provide enough space to create a large master suite.

Planning a Bathroom

In most cases, the location of a bathroom is determined by the accessibility of drain, waste, and vent stacks. Plumbing is easier to install and less expensive if it can be tied into existing drain and vent pipes. Keep costs down by locating the bathroom either directly above, below, or back-to-back with the plumbing of the kitchen or another bath. Usually, the toilet most complicates the installation of a new bathroom because it requires a bigger drain line than does a sink or shower.

According to building codes, the headroom in a bathroom can be as low as 84 inches (2m)—6 inches (15cm) lower than the standard for other rooms. But note that the most common criticisms of bathrooms are that they are too small and that there aren’t enough of them. One possibility is to add a master bath while leaving the old bathroom for general use. Plan a master bathroom that can conveniently accommodate two adults at the same time.

INCORPORATE THE ANGLES found in the attic into the final design. Here angles help create a fun child’s bedroom.

PLANNING A BATHROOM. These are minimum dimensions for bathrooms. Spaced any closer together, the facilities would be difficult to use comfortably.

The New Garage

While garages can be converted to an extra bedroom, home office, or playroom many homeowners are electing to make the garage more garagelike by improving the space and installing special storage systems. These are designed specifically for the garage and have an industrial look to them.

Planning a Workshop

The solid floor and sturdy walls of a basement or garage lend those areas to the wear and tear that’s typical of most home workshops. Because the height of a basement may be limited, additional horizontal space may be necessary to maneuver materials back and forth.

Provide plenty of electrical outlets on one or more dedicated 20-amp circuits. For some workshops, both 220-volt and 110-volt outlets may be necessary.

Dust Control. Keeping sawdust contained is a most important precaution. Isolating the shop from adjacent rooms with partition walls is the best dust-control strategy. Help to keep dust confined to the workshop by outfitting each door that enters the space with weatherstripping. A portable dust-collection system is a must for confined workshops, especially those in basements. Hoses from the dust-collection system connected to each woodworking machine will cut down on dust pollution considerably but will not eliminate dust entirely. At the very least, connect a shop vacuum to each source of sawdust as work is under way.

Planning a Home Office

A home office is likely to be filled with electronic equipment that includes computers, printers, photocopiers, fax machines, and so on. Allow for plenty of electrical outlets, and as a precaution, divide them into at least two separate circuits if possible. Some pieces of home office equipment, such as laser printers, have significant power requirements, and if a circuit breaker trips while you’re using the computer, you may lose important data.

Decide whether more than one telephone line is necessary for your home office. Convenience and organized record-keeping are other reasons to have two telephone lines. If one line is an extension of your home number and the other is for business only, you can answer personal calls without leaving the office and track business-call expenses separately.

Although it depends on the kind of work you’ll do, most offices should have bookshelves, as well as storage for files, office supplies, and the like. Make every square foot count. If a tall four-drawer file cabinet seems too awkward for the room, for example, consider using a pair of two-drawer units with a piece of plywood on top. This arrangement allows for plenty of file space and serves as a stand for a printer, photocopier, or fax machine at the same time. Here are other factors to consider:

◾Attics. An attic is a good choice if you do not need a separate entrance for business traffic.

◾Late Working Hours. Will you work late at night? Will night work disrupt the sleep of other family members? For instance, don’t combine a home office with a child’s bedroom in the attic. Or if you set aside part of a master bedroom as an office, be sure late-night work won’t disturb your spouse.

◾Home Office Tax Deductions. Have you checked that you can legitimately declare the remodeled space as office space? Does your design conform to the regulations for home office space? Is it completely separated from other areas, for example, so 100 percent of the space is work related?

◾Insurance. What liabilities will you incur if business guests must go through your living quarters to reach the office area? What about insuring your office equipment?

◾Zoning Ordinances. Are there zoning restrictions that may influence your location of a home office?

◾Work at Home versus Occasional Use. What is the purpose of the office now? How often will it be used? Do you need office space for two? Can the office be shared efficiently? Should you plan on using the home office full-time at some future date and incorporate anticipated needs with current design?

HOME THEATERS are becoming more and more popular. Be sure to supply adequate electrical power for lights and equipment.

Planning a Home Theater

Media rooms are becoming increasingly popular. In addition to the electronic equipment, you will need comfortable seating, dedicated electrical service, and adjustable lighting. Plan seating in a home theater so that someone passing through the room won’t have to walk between viewers and the video screen. Check that details such as electrical outlets and light switches are conveniently positioned if you’ve relocated doors. The electrical utilities should also relate to your prospective furniture arrangements. If you’re planning a media wall with electrical demands, for instance, make sure the outlets are positioned to service it.

BASIC CLEARANCE REQUIREMENTS. Maintain the minimum clearances recommended here for the most comfortable use of doorways, furniture, and traffic areas.

Lighting

To provide a suitable amount of natural light, building codes generally require that all habitable rooms have an amount of glazing (window glass area) equal to 8 percent or more of the floor area. For daylighting, it doesn’t matter whether the glazing is fixed or operable. This amount of daylighting is difficult to achieve for rooms located partially below grade, so most building codes allow an exception to the requirement for these areas.

Natural lighting can be entirely forgone if artificial lighting provides an average of 6 lumens per square foot over the area of the room. Lumens are a measure of the total amount of light emitted by a light bulb; the more light a bulb produces, the higher its lumen rating. Six lumens per square foot is not difficult to achieve.

Note that the 6-lumen figure is for general, or ambient, lighting and is an average requirement for each room. The provision for general lighting is the first priority for planning room lighting. After that, task lighting and accent lighting can be added as desired. Special-purpose rooms like bathrooms and home offices may have additional lighting needs.

Designing with Light

To maximize the effectiveness of lighting, use lightcolored surfaces wherever possible; this helps to reflect light around rooms. Dark paneling or carpeting, on the other hand, tends to “soak up” light. Use a variety of light sources, if possible, to provide maximum flexibility when it comes to setting a mood or producing extra light for activities.

Light Quality. Light quality is worth consideration, especially for basements. Even if the quantity of light is adequate, the quality of the light can make or break a room.

Lighting quality can be generally described in terms of the “coolness” or “warmth” of its color. This lighting temperature is measured using the Kelvin Scale, abbreviated K. Cool light emphasizes blue and green hues while warm light plays up yellows and reds.

GENERAL, OR AMBIENT, LIGHT provides illumination to the entire space, such as the light from this hanging fixture.

WHEN CONVERTING AN ATTIC, be sure to install the dedicated circuits for lights and appliances.

PLAN LIGHTING based on how the room will be used. Here skylights provide needed natural lighting for painting.

Lighting in Basement Conversions. Since you can’t count on supplementary natural light, provide enough light to make the basement functional as well as attractive. You need ambient, overall lighting. In addition, you need task lighting, which puts a high level of illumination on the surfaces where you need it. In addition, make sure that there’s adequate lighting for game tables and reading if these activities will take place in the basement. A basement’s low light level makes it an ideal location for a media room or home entertainment center. You can totally control light levels and reduce glare without interference from the outdoors, as in aboveground installations.

Lighting in Attics and Garages. Attics and garages lend themselves to natural lighting because you can easily add windows and skylights. As a general rule for natural lighting, figure you’ll want a total glass area of at least 10 to 15 percent of the room’s floor area. Place the skylights where they provide efficient light. For example, spread skylights along the length of a roof or cluster some in a dark area that’s not illuminated by conventional windows at either end of the attic.

Light tubes are other options to consider. Generally, these are constructed of a fixed exterior skylight coupled to a flexible reflecting tube that carries light down to a translucent glass-covered opening in the ceiling of the room below. Use them when you want diffused light rather than a view. Light shafts, especially when they widen inside the room, provide natural daylight in areas where it otherwise would be impossible to position a skylight or roof window. They also provide privacy as well as light.

Although skylights and windows will allow plenty of sunlight to spill into attic spaces during the day, low ceilings may pose problems for lighting designs. Consider recessed ceiling fixtures that mount flush with ceilings.

Design Ideas

A SEATING ALCOVE, provides a quiet spot to relax, read a book, or enjoy a chat with a friend.

DORMERS, below, make ideal spots for built-in seating. And they make interesting design details as well.

ROOF RAFTERS AND COLLAR TIES, can be made part of an attic room’s design with interesting effect.

WHEN DESIGNING YOUR EXPANDED SPACE, below, plan for a combination of both natural and artificial lighting.

CHAPTER 2

Sizing Up the Project

Surveying the Basement

Surveying the Attic

Surveying the Garage

Planning for Utilities

Abiding by Building Codes

Surveying the Basement

Once you have an idea of how you want to remodel the basement, a bit of detective work is necessary. Uncovering and solving potential problems at the start means being faced with fewer surprises and less expense later.

Not every basement can be converted into living space, and not every one that can is worth the effort. If, for example, the basement is short on headroom, the solution (lowering the floor level) involves more effort and expense than it’s worth. Likewise, if water problems can’t be eliminated without unreasonable expense, you can’t turn the basement into a comfortable and healthy living space. Spend some time getting to know your basement before jumping into a remodeling job.

Types of Basement Walls