Ultimate Guide: Plumbing, 4th Updated Edition E-Book

Editors of Creative Homeowner

• Herausgeber: Creative Homeowner
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2017

Seitenzahl: 495

Beschreibung

This updated and expanded edition of Creative Homeowner's comprehensive, bestselling plumbing how-to book covers the most up-to-date products and techniques. Strong emphasis in the how-to information is placed on doing things correctly, so all of the projects use only code-compliant techniques. Ultimate Guide: Plumbing, 4th Edition prepares the do-it-yourselfer to handle any plumbing task in the home, from replacing a washer in a leaky faucet to renovating a bathroom. It also gives readers an overview of a house's plumbing system, including supply, waste, and vent piping, and explains the basic physics that keep everything working well. In addition to learning how to plan and complete each project, readers learn how to spot and improve outdated or dangerous techniques and materials in their home plumbing system.

Leseprobe

COPYRIGHT © 2002, 2006, 2010, 2017

This book may not be reproduced, either in part or in its entirety, in any form, by any means, without written permission from the pulisher, with the exception of brief excerpts for purposes of radio, television, or published review. All rights, including the right of translation, are reserved. Note: Be sure to familiarize yourself with manufacturer’s instructions for tools, equipment, and materials before beginning a project. Although all possible measures have been taken to ensure the accuracy of the material presented, neither the author nor the publisher is liable in case of misinterpretation of directions, misapplication, or typographical error.

Creative Homeowner® is a registered trademark of New Design Originals Corporation.

ULTIMATE GUIDE: PLUMBING

PRINCIPAL AUTHOR:

Merle Henkenius

CONTRIBUTING AUTHOR:

Steve Willson

MANAGING EDITOR:

Fran Donegan

GRAPHIC DESIGNER:

Kathryn Wityk

PHOTO COORDINATOR:

Mary Dolan

JUNIOR EDITOR:

Angela Hanson

PROOFREADER:

Sara M. Markowitz

DIGITAL IMAGING SPECIALIST:

Frank Dyer

INDEXER:

Schroeder Indexing Services

4TH UPDATED EDITION

TECHNICAL EDITOR:

Charles T. Byers, Assistant Professor, Residential Remodeling Technology, AAS, AST, Thaddeus Stevens College of Technology

COVER DESIGNER:

Nichole Warman

MANAGING EDITOR:

Katie Weeber

Ultimate Guide: Plumbing, 4th Updated Edition

Print ISBN 978-1-58011-788-3eISBN: 978-1-60765-762-0

Creative Homeowner®, www.creativehomeowner.com, is an imprint of New Design Originals Corporation and distributed exclusively in North America by Fox Chapel Publishing Company, Inc., 800-457-9112, 1970 Broad Street, East Petersburg, PA 17520, and in the United Kingdom by Grantham Book Service, Trent Road, Grantham, Lincolnshire, NG31 7XQ.

Safety

Although the methods in this book have been reviewed for safety, it is not possible to overstate the importance of using the safest methods you can. What follows are reminders—some do’s and don’ts of work safety—to use along with your common sense.

▮ Always use caution, care, and good judgment when following the procedures described in this book.

▮ Always obey local plumbing codes and laws, available from the building inspector. This book is based on the National Standard Plumbing Code, which despite its name, is one of several regional plumbing codes in force in the United States. As of the time of publication, there is no truly national plumbing code.

▮ Always use a flame shield to protect combustible materials when using a torch for soldering. And keep a fire extinguisher nearby whenever using a torch, just in case.

▮ Always be sure that the electrical setup is safe, that no circuit is overloaded, and that all power tools and outlets are properly grounded. Do not use power tools in wet locations. Use a battery powered flashlight when working near or with water.

▮ Always read labels on solvents and other products; provide ventilation; and observe all other warnings.

▮ Always read the manufacturer’s instructions, especially the warnings, for using a tool or installing an appliance.

▮ Always remove the key from any drill chuck (portable or press) before starting the drill.

▮ Always use a drill with an auxiliary handle to control the torque when using large-size bits.

▮ Always pay deliberate attention to how a tool works so that you can avoid being injured.

▮ Always wear the appropriate rubber gloves or work gloves when handling chemicals, soldering, or doing heavy construction.

▮ Always wear a disposable face mask when you create dust by sawing or sanding. Use a special filtering respirator when working with toxic substances and solvents.

▮ Never try to light a gas appliance, like a water heater, if you smell gas. Do not touch any electrical switch or use any telephone in the same building. Go to a neighbor’s house, and call the gas supplier. If you cannot reach your gas supplier, call the fire department.

▮ Always wear eye protection, especially when soldering, using a plunger or auger, using power tools, or striking metal on metal or concrete; a chip can fly off, for example, when chiseling concrete.

▮ Never work while wearing loose clothing, open cuffs, or jewelry; tie back long hair.

▮ Always be aware that there is seldom enough time for your body’s reflexes to save you from injury from a power tool in a dangerous situation; everything happens too fast. Be alert!

▮ Always keep your hands away from the business ends of blades, cutters, and bits.

▮ Always hold a circular saw firmly, usually with both hands.

▮ Always check your local building codes when planning new construction. The codes are intended to protect public safety and should be observed to the letter.

▮ Never work with power tools when you are tired or when under the influence of alcohol or drugs.

▮ Never cut tiny pieces of pipe or wood using a power saw. When you need a small piece, saw it from a securely clamped longer piece.

▮ Never change a saw blade or a drill bit unless the power cord is unplugged. Do not depend on the switch being off. You might accidentally hit it.

▮ Always know the limitations of your tools. Do not try to force them to do what they were not designed to do.

▮ Never work in insufficient lighting.

▮ Never work with dull tools. Have them sharpened, or learn how to sharpen them yourself.

▮ Never use a power tool on a workpiece—large or small—that is not firmly supported.

▮ Never carry sharp or pointed tools, such as utility knives, awls, or chisels, in your pocket. If you want to carry any of these tools, use a special-purpose tool belt that has leather pockets and holders.

Contents

Introduction

PART I: PROJECTS, IMPROVEMENTS, REPAIRS

CHAPTER ONE

WORKING WITH WATER PIPING

Copper Water Piping

• Cutting Water Pipes• Solder• Soldering Copper

• When Pipes Won’t Dry Out• Other Methods of Joining Copper• Push-Fit Fittings

Steel Piping

Plastic Water Piping

In-Line Water-Control Valves

• Gate Valves• Ball Valves• Globe Valves

• Stop-and-Waste Valves• Fixture Stops

Utility Faucet Valves

• Freeze-Proof Sillcocks

Regulators and Safety Valves

• Vacuum Breakers• Check Valves

• Pressure-Reduction Valves

PEX Water Tubing

CHAPTER TWO

WORKING WITH WASTE AND VENT PIPES

Cast-Iron Drainage Piping

• Working with Existing Cast Iron• New Piping into Old Hubs

Plastic Drainage Piping

CHAPTER THREE

TOILET REPAIRS AND INSTALLATION

Toilet Fundamentals

How Gravity-Flow Toilets Work

Troubleshooting Gravity-Flow Toilets

Repairing Toilets

• Repairing a Flush Valve

Troubleshooting Pressure-Assisted Toilets

Toilet Flanges

• Leaky Flange Gaskets

Installing a New Toilet

• Setting Toilets on Concrete

CHAPTER FOUR

INSTALLING SINKS AND RELATED EQUIPMENT

Water- and Waste-Connection Basics

• Sink Drains• Dishwashers

How to Replace a Bathroom Faucet and Drain

Replacing a Wall-Hung Bathroom Sink with a Vanity and Molded Top

• Installing the Cabinet and Top

Installing a Bathroom Sink in a Plywood-Based Top

How to Replace a Kitchen Sink

• Removing the Old Kitchen Sink• Installing a Metal-Rim Sink• Connecting the Water

How to Replace a Laundry Sink

• Installing a Freestanding Laundry Sink

Waste-Disposal Units

Built-In Dishwashers

Hot-Water Dispensers

CHAPTER FIVE

FAUCET REPAIRS

Faucet Overview

• Washer-Equipped Faucets• Washerless Faucets

Repairing Compression Faucets

• “H” is for Left

Fixing Ball-Type Faucets

Repairing Cartridge Faucets

• Repairing Two-Handle Cartridge Faucets

Repairing Ceramic-Disk Faucets

Faucet-Related Repairs

• Dealing with Leaky Spray Attachments

• Working with Scald-Control Faucets

CHAPTER SIX

CLEARING DRAINPIPES

Drain Cleaners

• Chemical Drain Cleaners

Clearing Techniques

• Getting the Most from a Plunger

• Effective Auger Techniques

Access to Cleanout Fittings

Access to Sink Drains

Clearing Bathtub Drains

Clearing Other Traps

• Clearing Bathroom Drum Traps

• Clearing Shower Drains• Clearing Floor Drains

• Clearing Toilet Drains

CHAPTER SEVEN

REPAIRING AND INSTALLING TUBS AND SHOWERS

Waste and Overflow Repair and Replacement

Tub and Shower Faucets

Bathtubs

• Whirlpool Tubs

Showers

• Installing a Shower Stall

CHAPTER EIGHT

MAINTAINING AND INSTALLING WATER HEATERS

Electric and Gas Water Heaters

• Electric Water Heaters• Gas-Fired Water Heaters

Common Water-Heater Problems

• Faulty T&P Relief Valves• Sediment Accumulation

Servicing Gas-Fired Water Heaters

• Combustion-Air Problems• Vent-Pipe Problems

Servicing Electric Water Heaters

• Replacing a Heating Element

Installing an Electric Water Heater

CHAPTER NINE

SUMP PUMPS, FILTERS, AND SOFTENERS

Sump Pumps

• Sump Pumps for Groundwater and Runoff

• Installing a Submersible Sump Pump

Water Treatment Systems

• Filter Types• Installing In-Line Filters

• Installing Reverse-Osmosis Units

• Installing a Water Softener

CHAPTER TEN

SEPTIC SYSTEMS, WELLS, AND LAWN SPRINKLERS

Septic Systems

Private Water Wells

How to Install an Underground Sprinkler System

• An Overview

PART II: FUNDAMENTALS

CHAPTER ELEVEN

PLUMBING BASICS

Water Supply System

• Municipal Supply Lines• Water Meters• Types of Service Line• Indoor Water Supply Systems

• Fixture and Appliance Connections

Drainage and Vent Systems

• Sizes and Materials• The Drainpipe System

Tools

• Shopping for Tools• Plumbing Tools

CHAPTER TWELVE

PLANNING PLUMBING CHANGES AND ADDITIONS

Building Codes

• Permits and Inspections

Layout and Feasibility

• Standard Rough-In Measurements

• Designing Efficient Plumbing Installations

• Planning for Access

CHAPTER THIRTEEN

DRAINS, VENTS, AND TRAPS

Drains

Vents

• Vent Types and Terms• Basic Drain and Vent Considerations• Sizing Fixture Drains and Vents

• Installing Vents and Vent Fittings• Roof Vent Considerations

Traps

• Trap Variations• Broken Trap Seals

Resource Guide

Glossary

Photo Credits

Metric Equivalents

Introduction

THESE ARE GOOD TIMES for do-it-yourself plumbers. Plumbing materials are lighter and easier than ever to install, and the range of quality products sold to homeowners is unprecedented. Fifteen years ago, many of these products were sold only through wholesalers to plumbers.

And the materials are affordable. Many faucets and fixtures cost less at home centers than they do at wholesale houses. This may be bad news for plumbers, but it’s good news for you. With these advantages, all you need is help with the installations. That is the purpose of this book.

Ultimate Guide: Plumbing is, of course, loaded with detailed projects, but it also provides context. Part I takes you step-by-step through tasks, projects, improvements, repairs, and solutions to specific problems. Chapters 1 and 2 introduce you to working with all types of water and waste piping, including soldering copper, solvent-welding plastic, and working with PEX tubing. Chapter 3 deals with toilet repairs and installations. Chapters 4 and 5 help you with sinks and faucets, as well as waste-disposal units, dishwashers, and hot-water dispensers. Chapter 6 teaches you how to clear all kinds of drainpipes; then it’s on to repairing and installing tubs and showers in Chapter 7. The final three chapters deal with so-called mechanicals: water heaters in Chapter 8; sump pumps, filters, and water softeners in Chapter 9; and septic systems, wells, and lawn sprinklers in Chapter 10. Every major (and some minor) system is covered.

Part II provides the background needed to accomplish almost any plumbing task, from the materials and tools needed to the importance of vents and traps in a properly functioning plumbing system.

Faucets come in a variety of styles, such as the single-handle kitchen faucet, top, and the two-handle bath faucet, immediately above.

About Plumbing Codes

Many plumbing projects require permits, so Ultimate Guide: Plumbing discusses industry standards and code compliance, project by project. All projects in the book are based on the National Standard Plumbing Code, which despite its name is one of several regional plumbing codes, along with countless local codes, in force in the United States. As a practical matter, the only codes that really matter are those adopted by your local municipality. You’ll learn enough about the fundamentals to work intelligently with your codes office. Because codes vary widely, it is best to consult with your local building department before beginning any large project. The officials there can tell you what is required in your area.

SIDEBARS

The numerous sidebars focus on a product, technique, or situation, providing additional detail or insight.

STEP-BY-STEP PHOTO SEQUENCES

A listing of skill level, tools, and materials accompanies each step-by-step photo sequence.

About the Projects and Text

Every numbered step-by-step project is keyed to the level of difficulty (below, right) and the average time required by a reasonably skilled homeowner to complete the project. Each project also has a listing of tools and materials as well as a useful tip for getting the job done right.

In addition, you’ll find a host of Smart Tips, or insider information based on the author’s many years of practical plumbing experience; informative sidebars, which provide additional information on points of interest, products, and techniques relating to plumbing; and Green Solutions, or tips, information, and projects relating to saving energy, conserving precious natural resources like water (by stopping leaks, for instance), and the like.

SMART TIPS

Insider information, shortcuts, new techniques, pitfalls to watch for—this (and more) is the stuff of Smart Tips.

GUIDE TO SKILL LEVEL

Easy. Even for beginners.

Challenging. Can be done by beginners who have the patience and willingness to learn.

Difficult. Can be handled by most experienced do-it-yourselfers who have mastered basic construction skills. Consider consulting a specialist.

1

working withwater piping

COPPER WATER PIPING

STEEL PIPING

PLASTIC WATER PIPING

IN-LINE WATER-CONTROL VALVES

UTILITY FAUCET VALVES

REGULATORS & SAFETY VALVES

PEX WATER TUBING

THE TYPICAL HOME PLUMBING SYSTEM may appear to be a jumble of different size pipes running in all directions. But there is a logic to a well-designed system that almost anyone can learn to understand. The easiest way to approach the task is to separate the incoming water pipes from the outgoing drainage pipes. For an overview of how water piping and drainage systems work together, see Chapter 11 “Plumbing Basics,” page. This chapter will cover working with water piping to help you get started with making repairs and adding new plumbing fixtures.

One drawback to working with water piping might be the water-pipe joining method. Most water pipes are made of copper, which must be soldered. Well-soldered joints require some skill, but with practice and the information in this chapter, good soldering technique is not beyond your reach.

Of course, you might worry about leaks, but leaks are fairly easy to repair. Just drain the system, and redo the offending fitting. It may be inconvenient and time-consuming, but it’s not difficult.

Plastic water pipes rely on a solvent for attachment. This is a skill that is easy to master. The problem is that many codes restrict plastic to drainage systems.

Cross-linked polyethylene (PEX) is an alternative that has shown tremendous growth in the plumbing industry. These systems use crimp-ring and barbed fittings for joining pipe that are easy to master.

COPPER WATER PIPING

Copper piping for water supply is available in two forms—rigid, or hard tubing, and drawn, or soft tubing. Rigid copper comes in 10- or 20-foot lengths, while soft copper comes in 60-, 100-, and 120-foot coils. You typically use rigid copper for in-house, above-concrete water-piping installations, and soft copper for belowground applications and for connecting stub-outs with faucets. Along with black steel pipe, some codes allow the use of soft copper for both natural gas and propane piping.

Rigid copper is available in Type M and Type L wall thicknesses. Type M, thinner than Type L, is used predominantly in residential systems. Type L is more common in commercial installations. Soft copper comes in Type L and Type K wall thicknesses—Type K is heavier. You use Type L most often aboveground, as both water and gas piping, while you use Type K almost exclusively for underground water piping. Type K soft copper is also used to run water service lines between public mains and private homes.

You can join rigid copper with soldered—or sweat—fittings, compression fittings, and push-fit fittings. You can join soft copper with compression and flare fittings. Threaded adapters are available for joining copper to any other threaded material, including threaded steel and CPVC plastic. Only soldered and threaded fittings can be hidden in walls, however.

Cutting Water Pipes

The methods and equipment you need to cut water pipes depend on the piping material itself. Many people cut copper and galvanized steel with a hacksaw, but a tubing cutter leaves a more uniform edge. You can also cut plastic pipe with a tubing cutter, but most do-it-yourselfers reach for a hacksaw instead. The reason has less to do with the quality of the cut than with the availability of the tool. Tubing shears are probably the best cutting tool for plastic.

A clean, straight cut is also important. A tubing cutter can leave a compression ridge inside the pipe, while hacksaws leave coarse burrs. Ragged burrs protruding from a pipe’s edge will eventually break off and make their way into control valves, appliances, and faucets. Severe edges also create friction in the water flow, called line friction, which can reduce pressure. And finally, raised edges generate turbulence, which can eventually erode the pipe wall. To prevent these problems, ream any severe edges left by a cutting tool before you install the pipe.

To ream a copper or plastic pipe, lift the triangular reaming attachment from the top of the cutter, insert it into the end of the pipe, and give it several sharp twists. When dealing with steel pipe, you’ll need a more aggressive reaming tool—one with hardened-steel cutting blades. You can rent many of these tools. If you are making only a few cuts, use a rat-tail file.

USING HACKSAWS

CUTTING WITH A HACKSAW. Use as much of the blade as possible in long, easy strokes. If you work too fast, the blade will heat up and start binding. A hot blade also leaves a ragged pipe edge. The best approach is to steady the pipe on a solid surface and cut just to the left or right of the support. Some people like to use a miter box to ensure straight cuts.

Close-Quarters Hacksaws. When you need a smaller saw, you’ll find that there are a variety of miniature hacksaws on the market. While it’s not sensible to try plumbing an entire job with a tiny saw, they work wonders in cramped spaces. In fact, close-quarters hacksaws often work in situations too cramped for thumb cutters. The design shown in the photo below is usually preferable. In a pinch, some people remove the blade from a full-size hacksaw and use it alone. But hacksaw blades are fairly brittle, so remember to wear gloves.

USE A FINE-TOOTH BLADE in a hacksaw. Hold the tubing steady, cutting near the support.

YOU CAN USE A MINIATURE HACKSAW as you would a full-size one, but it fits tight spaces.

USING TUBING CUTTERS

project

Use all tubing cutters in a similar fashion. First, mark the tube to length. Then clamp the cutter onto the tube, centering the cutting wheel on your mark. Rotate the tool’s handle clockwise until the cutting wheel just bites into the tubing. Don’t overdo it. If it’s difficult to rotate the cutter around the tube, unscrew the handle, but just slightly. Then rotate the tool around the pipe several times. You’ll feel slight resistance on the first one or two turns, but after that, the cutter will roll easily around the tube. This is your cue to tighten the wheel against the pipe again. Rotate the cutter and repeat this procedure until you cut all the way through the pipe.

You use the same method for cutting plastic, steel, or copper. The only difference is that tubing cutters made for steel pipe are much heavier than those for copper or plastic. Because of this, there’s a substantial cost difference. Buying a tubing cutter for plastic and copper does not make sense—one will work for both—but cutters made for steel pipe are strictly rental items.

TOOLS & MATERIALS

▮ Measuring tape

▮ Pencil/permanent marker

▮ Tubing cutter

1 Hold the tubing in your left hand and the measuring tape in your right. Hold the location with your thumb; then mark it using a permanent marker or pencil.

2 Tighten the wheel cutter to clamp it onto the tube at the mark, and rotate the cutter with the wheel following the rollers. Work slowly for the first couple of revolutions to make sure the cutter doesn’t slip out of the cut.

3 Use a thumb cutter when you need to cut copper tubing and you are confined by a tight working space. These tools don’t provide the same mechanical advantage as longer cutters, so they are harder to tighten and to turn.

Solder

Solder is metallic filler that bonds two metallic surfaces to itself. Flux helps this bonding to occur. Flux works by ridding the copper surfaces of oxidation and other contaminants. It pulls molten solder into the joint, even when the fitting is upside down. Where the flux goes, solder will follow. Without flux, molten solder will just bead up and fall away.

Until the 1980s, most of the solder used in residential plumbing was a 50-50 amalgamation of tin and lead. Lead also makes brass more easily machined, so most quality faucets contained lead until very recently.

The plumbing industry didn’t realize that water, under fairly common conditions, could leach lead from soldered fittings. Even small amounts of lead ingested by a human being can cause brain damage. Today, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) bans the use of lead-based plumbing solder.

Soldering Copper

The three most common mistakes in soldering are using dirty fittings and using too much or too little heat. If fitting and pipe aren’t clean down to shiny copper, the solder may not adhere well to the metal. With too much heat, you’ll cook the flux from the fitting hubs, resulting in a weak bond, and with too little heat, the solder may not flow properly, also resulting in a weak joint. Other trouble sources are water left in fittings, which prevents the metal from heating up as the water absorbs the heat; heating the top end of a fitting first, resulting in uneven heat distribution; and not allowing for the greater mass and density of brass valves and fittings when applying heat, which may result in the fitting not getting hot enough to melt the solder. Bringing the Heat. Use a mapp (methylacetyline propane) gas torch, available at hardware stores for soldering. Mapp gas makes a hotter flame than propane. When you heat a joint for solder, always heat the fitting, not the pipe. Keep the torch moving, side to side, to avoid hot spots that can cook the flux. Heat just one fitting hub at a time, not the entire fitting.

EXISTING LEAD HAZARDS

WHAT IF YOUR HOME ALREADY HAS lead-based solder joints? Short of installing an expensive distiller or an equally expensive reverse-osmosis water filter, there’s little you can do. However, you can take precautions, as discussed below.

Almost all soldered copper piping installed before 1988 had lead soldered joints. Does this mean that your home’s plumbing puts you at risk today? It’s hard to say with certainty, but probably not. There’s a limit to the amount of lead available in a soldered fitting, and most of the exposed lead leaches out in the first 90 days. Water conditions also make a difference. Soft water is inherently more aggressive, so it dissolves some soft metals at a faster rate, depleting them sooner. With even slightly hard water, the joints scale over in a few years, sealing off the problem. The greatest likely hazard occurred when these systems were new.

Water must remain in contact with soldered joints six to eight hours before it can absorb much lead, so the greatest lead concentrations are present when the system hasn’t been used for a while, such as overnight or while you’re at work. If you flush a toilet, take a shower or let a little water run through the faucet before taking a drink, you pretty much avoid the lead risk. If you’re concerned, let a faucet run for 15 to 20 seconds before drinking.

smart tip

START AT THE BOTTOM

ALWAYS START WITH THE LOWEST HUB ON A FITTING. THIS IS CRITICALLY IMPORTANT. WHEN YOU SOLDER THE LOWEST JOINT FIRST, THE SOLDER IN THAT HUB COOLS AND THICKENS SLIGHTLY BY THE TIME YOU MOVE TO THE UPPER JOINTS. IN THIS WAY, THE HOTTER, THINNER SOLDER FED INTO THE TOP OF THE FITTING DOES NOT DRAIN THROUGH THE BOTTOM. IF YOU REMEMBER THIS ONE PROCEDURE, YOU’LL CUT YOUR SOLDER LEAKS IN HALF.

Try to keep the torch tip about inch away from the fitting, and always keep it moving. As soon as the flux in the near side of the fitting begins to crackle and spit, move the flame to the far side of the fitting and heat it, again moving the torch in a side-to-side arc.

How much solder should you give each joint? As a rule a ½-inch fitting should get ½ inch of solder wire per hub, a ¾-inch fitting, ¾ inch of solder, and so on. When the fitting is uniformly hot, the flux will draw the solder completely around the joint quickly. When the joint cools a bit, look for the solder to draw into the rim slightly. When this happens, you’ll know that the joint was a good “take.” If the solder seems to just lie on the rim, add a little more heat until it gets drawn in. If that doesn’t do it, brush new flux around the rim and add a little more heat and solder.

SOLDERING PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS

NOT ALL SOLDERING JOBS ARE SIMPLE. Common problem situations include tight workspaces, fittings installed too closely to structural timbers. You can often pre-solder fittings that must rest against structural timbers or be installed deep inside cantilevers or walls. A.

When you can’t avoid soldering against studs or joists, you can keep from scorching the wood by sliding a double thickness of sheet metal between the fitting and the structural member. B. It’s handy to keep a 6-inch fold of sheet metal in your toolbox for this purpose. The sheet metal must have two layers. Plumbing outlets also sell squares of woven fireproof protective fabric, which also work well. C.

SOLDER DEEP-SET FITTINGS, like this freeze-proof sillcock, to their pipes before installing them.

USE A DOUBLE THICKNESS OF SHEET METAL to keep from scorching the wood.

YOU CAN ALSO USE A FLAME SHIELD of fireproof woven fabric to protect larger areas.

SOLDERING COPPER TUBING

project

At first glance, soldering together copper tubing and fittings seems like a messy job. You have dirty pipes, greasy flux, and dripping solder at nearly every turn. But the connecting points between tubing sections and fittings are anything but dirty. In fact, the most important step in sweating joints is to make sure all mating parts are clean before any flux, solder, or heat hits the joint. Specialized tools make this job easier. But don’t forget, you can get good results with nothing but a pad of steel wool.

TOOLS & MATERIALS

▮ Cleaning tool or pad

▮ Flux & brush

▮ Tubing & fittings

▮ Solder

▮ Rag

▮ Gloves & goggles

▮ Soldering torch

1 Use a combination tool, wire brush, or abrasive pad to clean the inside of each hub on the fitting. Combination tools come with one end for cleaning the inside of the fittings and a round recessed brush for cleaning the outside of the tubing. Tools are available for ½- and ¾dia. tubing.

2 Use the tubing brush in the body of a combination tool to clean the ends on all tubing sections. Keep turning the tool until a 1-in.-long strip at the end of the tube is shiny. With a little more elbow grease, you can clean the tubing with an abrasive pad (inset photo) or steel wool.

3 Once the mating surfaces are clean, spread flux on the inside of the fittings and around the outside of the tubing using a small disposable brush. Then push the tubing into the fitting.

4 Because you have to handle the solder with one hand and the torch with the other, it’s a good idea to pull about 24 in. of solder from the roll and wrap it around your hand. Holding solder this way and advancing it into the joint is much easier than struggling with a tightly wound roll of solder.

5 Shutoff valves are standard fittings used for regulating water flow throughout the system. Most feature some rubber and/or plastic parts. These will be damaged when the fitting is soldered unless you remove the valve stem first. Use an adjustable wrench, and turn the stem counterclockwise.

6 Start soldering at the lowest point. Adjust the torch flame so that the tip is blue colored, and direct this tip alternately to both sides of the fitting. Unroll a length of solder, and press it against the joint on the fitting and tubing. When the fitting is hot enough, the solder will melt and be drawn up into the joint.

7 Joints are complete when they don’t draw in more solder and any new solder starts to spill out. Once this happens, immediately wipe away any excess with a damp rag. If you wait for even 10 seconds, the solder can cool and harden, and you won’t be able to wipe it away.

To stop a trickle of water, insert a special liquid-filled capsule before soldering.

A union installed at a low point makes a good drain-down fitting.

When Pipes Won’t Dry Out

When old shutoff valves leak, the downstream pipes will continue to carry a trickle of water. It’s difficult to make pipes and fittings that have even a small amount of water in them hot enough to accept solder. And even when you can make them hot enough, the escaping steam forces pinholes through the solder.

If that fails, you might try an old plumber’s trick. Squeeze white bread into tight balls, and push it into the pipe using a pencil. If you work quickly, you can solder the fitting before the bread starts to disintegrate. When you have finished the job, detach the aerator from the nearest faucet, and flush the sodden bread from the line. Plumbing outlets also sell liquid-filled plastic capsules for this purpose, which you later dissolve with heat. A.

If all else fails and you simply can’t keep water from trickling through the fitting to be soldered, cut the line at its lowest point so that it drains, and install a union or freeze-repair fitting when you have finished the work. B.

Other Methods of Joining Copper

While its best to assemble large piping projects with inexpensive soldered fittings, you can find other fittings for copper. These fittings fall into three categories, all of which are mechanical joints: compression fittings, flare fittings, and push-fit fittings.

Compression Fittings

A compression-type water fitting consists of a brass body—either an adapter body or valve body—with two or more pipe hubs. The fitting hubs have external threads and beveled rims. The nuts are open at the top so that you can insert pipes through them. A third component, a brass compression ring called a ferrule, makes the seal. The ferrule is also beveled, top and bottom.

You make the connection by sliding the nut and ferrule onto the end of a pipe and inserting the pipe into the fitting hub. As you tighten the nut, the beveled surfaces force the ring inward, cinching it around the pipe. Because the ring actually crushes the pipe a little, it locks the ring in place and makes the water seal.

You most frequently use compression fittings as conversion fittings under fixtures. Compression-type connectors normally come with shutoff valves, but they’re also available as couplings and 90-degree L-fittings, in sizes ranging from ⅛ to 1 inch in diameter. You can also find valves and adapters with one threaded hub and one compression hub. Use these to join threaded brass water fittings to copper supply tubes.

COMPRESSION FITTINGS

INSTALLING COMPRESSION FITTINGS

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Shutoff valves are the standard way to attach sinks and toilets to copper supply lines. They are located directly under the fixture and have a built-in shutoff valve. This valve lets you turn off the water to the fixture without going down into the utility room. These valves come in different configurations, as shown on the facing page. Often the valve has a pipe fitting on one end and a compression fitting on the other end that connects the tubing that goes to the fixtures. In most other cases the valve has compression fittings on both ends.

TOOLS & MATERIALS

▮ Stop valve and fittings

▮ Supply tubing

▮ Pencil

▮ Adjustable wrenches

▮ Tubing bender

▮ Tubing cutter

1 Gently bend the supply tube into shape using your hands or an inexpensive tubing bender. Test-fit the tube by attaching it to the bottom of the fixture and pushing it against the shutoff valve. Mark the tube to length; then remove it and cut it.

2 Attach the tube to the bottom of the fixture; then slide the compression nut and ferrule over the other end. Spread some pipe joint compound on the ferrule, and push the nut down onto the valve and tighten it with your fingers.

3 The best tools for tightening the nuts are a couple of small adjustable wrenches. Use one to hold the valve body and the other to tighten the compression nut. Do not over-tighten this nut. About 1 ½ turns should do the trick.

MAKING FLARE-FITTING CONNECTIONS

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Compression fittings work on both rigid and soft copper pipe. But flared fittings work only on soft tubing, most often used for under-slab water piping and in-house gas piping. The goal is to expand—flare out—the end of a soft copper pipe to match the male end of a typical flared fitting. The most common type of flaring tool has a vise to hold the pipe and a separate flaring head that clamps to the vise and turns into the end of the tube. Once the end is flared the tubing nut is threaded onto the fitting.

TOOLS & MATERIALS

▮ Tubing and fittings

▮ Tubing cutter

▮ Pipe joint compound

▮ Tubing bender

▮ Groove-joint pliers

▮ Clamp flaring tool

▮ Adjustable wrenches

1 Bends in soft copper must be made carefully, or the tubing will kink. The best approach is to use a spring-type tubing bender. This tool just slides over the tubing, and you make the bend with your hands. The spring distributes the force over the entire length of the bender, so no kinks form.

2 The vise base on a flaring tool has two parts. To use it, just slide the end of the tubing into its proper-sized hole and tighten both wing nuts securely. Be sure to slide the fitting nut onto the pipe before attaching the vise, and make sure the tubing extends ⅛ in. above the top of the vise.

3 Slide the flaring head onto the vise, and make sure that the tapered end of the stem fits over the end of the tubing. Once this stem is seated properly, turn the stem in a clockwise direction to start flaring the end of the tubing. Work slowly to ensure an even flare.

4 Continue turning the flaring stem into the tubing. Generally, the flare is complete when a lip that is about in. wide all around is formed. You don’t have to measure this. Once the copper fills the tapered opening in the vise, the flare is done. This job usually takes a little trial-and-error to get right.

5 Soft copper tubing is often used to connect gas appliances to standard steel gas pipes. The flared fitting has pipe threads on both ends; install the standard (non-flared) end in the steel fitting. Apply a light coat of pipe joint compound to the threads before tightening the fitting in place.

6 The free end of the flared fitting should be coated with pipe joint compound. Make sure to cover all the threads, but don’t get the compound inside the fitting. Compound that spills into the fitting can move through the line when the gas is turned on and clog the orifices where the gas is burned.

7 Slide the nut to the end of the copper tubing, and press it against the fitting. Carefully thread the nut in place with your fingers to avoid crossing the threads. Don’t switch to a wrench until the nut is at least halfway onto the fitting. Finish up by firmly tightening the nut with an adjustable wrench.

HAMMER-TYPE FLARING TOOL

BEGIN BY SLIDING THE NUT onto the pipe. Because these tools can force the pipe slightly out of round below the flare, hold the nut less than an inch below the end of the pipe. If you do this, you won’t have to worry that a slightly misshapen pipe will hold up the nut. Drive the tool into the end of the pipe with sharp, steady hammer blows. If you notice that one side of the pipe is being flared more than the other, even things out by striking the tool at a slight angle. Stop flaring when you see the outside diameter of the flare approaching the inside diameter of the fitting nut.

Push-Fit Fittings

Push-fit fittings, also known as crimp-ring fittings have gained wide acceptance because they are remarkably easy to use and almost never leak. They work on a variety of piping materials and can join dissimilar materials. They are available in a variety of configurations, the most ingenious of which is a braided stainless-steel freeze-repair coupling. To make an in-line repair, such as fixing a freeze rupture, you simply cut out the damaged section and splice in the repair piece, pushing each end fitting over its pipe. (See the photo here) Some codes don’t allow push-fit fittings, however, and others allow them only when they remain exposed.

Another advantage to push-fit fittings is that you can rotate them on the pipe after you have installed them. This feature is handy when making retrofit installations.

Similar braided stainless-steel tubing is now offered in many forms, including toilet, sink, and clothes-washer supply tubes. You can fit these tubes with compression fittings, friction fittings, and crimp-ring fittings. While all codes allow stainless-steel-encased tubes, many do not allow nylon-reinforced versions.

A good use of a push-fit fitting is this freeze-repair kit. Cut out the bad section of pipe, and bridge the gap.

How Push-Fit Fittings Work. Push-fit fittings come in two forms. You can remove the nuts from some of them, but others consist of one piece. If you take apart those with fastening nuts, you’ll need to break off the crimping ring and install a new one.

Some push-fit fittings are brass, while others are plastic. The mechanism for all the fittings is similar. A push- fit consists of a fitting body, neoprene O-ring, and metal crimping ring. You’ll need to round the edge of both pipes with a file or grit cloth, lubricate the end of the pipes with plumber’s grease, and push the fitting onto the pipes. When the pipe bottoms out in the fitting hub, the O-ring makes the seal and the crimping ring grips the pipe.

PUSH-FIT FITTINGS

NATURAL- AND PROPANE-GAS PIPING

PROFESSIONAL PLUMBERS are usually the only ones to install in-house gas piping because, while there’s little procedural difference between running water pipe and gas pipe, there certainly is a liability difference. A water leak can be costly, but a gas leak can be fatal.

With that in mind, there are aspects of the job that you should know about, if only to check the plumber’s work. The piping between the gas meter and your appliances will be under either high pressure or low pressure. High-pressure systems allow smaller pipes, while low-pressure systems require larger pipes. High-pressure systems also require a pressure reduction regulator at each appliance, while low-pressure systems have a single regulator mounted on the meter.

Three piping materials are allowed for in-house gas piping: black steel, flexible stainless steel, or soft copper in Type L or Type K thickness. Low-pressure systems can use ½-inch black steel or ½-inch soft copper, in either thickness. As the ½-inch feed line reaches each appliance, the branch line serving that appliance will probably be reduced to inch. When only one appliance remains, the feed line may also be reduced to inch. With high-pressure systems, the entire run may be in ⅜- or ½-inch soft copper, with each branch line terminating in a regulator near the appliance. All flare fittings must have deep-shoulder nuts. Codes do not allow rigid copper. Some codes now disallow black steel, so make it a point to ask before any work is done on your system. It is being replaced by a new gas-only piping system made of flexible stainless steel, which is covered by a yellow plastic coating. Manufacturers use flare-type fittings, but each has its own design, and brands are not interchangeable. Note: this new piping, called corrugated stainless-steel tubing (CSST), is not a DIY material.

Codes require an approved gas shutoff valve within 36 inches of each appliance and a condensation-catching drip leg near each fixed appliance, including the furnace (or boiler) and water heater. All gas-pipe joints must be made with gas-compatible pipe joint compound, or in the case of black steel, gas-compatible pipe-thread sealing tape. And finally, most codes now require braided stainless-steel connectors on movable appliances such as dryers and ranges. Some are available with built-in safety valves. Should the connector ever break, the valve would close immediately.

Testing Gas Lines. After charging the system and bleeding the air from the line, through a union or drip-leg cap, the plumber will test all the joints using an electronic gas detector. You can also test joints if you ever suspect a leak. Use premixed testing soap (available at plumbing supply stores) or a mixture of dish detergent and warm water. Create a thick, soapy mixture by squirting about a tablespoon of liquid soap into a cup and mixing it with warm water. Then, using an inexpensive brush, coat each fitting connection with the mixture. A leaky fitting will produce bubbles. Have a plumber remake any joint where bubbles appear, and then retest it.

Plastic-coated CSST (corrugated stainless-steel tubing) for use with gas comes with a variety of proprietary fittings. This piping is not a do-it-yourself material.

Periodically test all gas fittings using liquid test soap or a mixture of household dish detergent and water. If you find a leak, turn off the gas and call in a plumber.

STEEL PIPING

Galvanized and black steel are the two types of steel pipe used in residential plumbing. You can install galvanized steel as water or gas pipe. However, use black steel, where allowed, only as gas pipe. Don’t be tempted to use black steel in your plumbing system. The use of black steel for water is prohibited by many codes because water causes black steel to rust quickly.

Aside from their separate uses, there’s little difference in how the two are cut and fitted. You can cut both types of steel with a heavy wheel cutter or a hacksaw and use threaded fittings on both. You can purchase short, threaded nipples at any hardware store, but you’ll need to rent threading dies to cut threads on custom lengths. (See the “Rental Tools” photograph, page.) While few people use either type today, there is plenty of it in place, and you may need to know something about it to make repairs and additions.

Threading pipe is heavy work even when you use the specialized tools shown here. And assembling the parts can be even harder. But the result is strong, durable pathway for water or gas.

Whenever you work with threaded fittings, make sure you backhold the pipe with a second wrench.

CUTTING, THREADING, AND FITTING STEEL PIPE

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You can use a bench vise to work with steel piping, but a tripod-mounted pipe vise is a much better tool because it provides a more secure grip and greater mobility. You are likely to rent a cutter and threading tools anyway, so you may as well rent a pipe vise, too. Your threading chores are limited to the ends of pipe, not to the fittings that join them. The fittings are sold as finishing units with the threads, whether male or female, already cut. They are sized to match standard pipe sizes.

TOOLS & MATERIALS

▮ Steel pipe and fitting

▮ Pipe vise

▮ Threading die

▮ Pipe cutter and reamer

▮ Pipe joint compound

▮ Cutting oil

▮ Pipe wrenches

1 Begin by marking the correct length on the pipe with a soft pencil or felt marker. Then clamp the pipe in the vise; slide the wheel cutter onto the pipe; and start tightening the handle by turning it clockwise. Once the cutter wheel hits the pipe, turn it around the pipe, tightening the wheel as you go.

2 Cutting pipe with a wheel cutter almost always leaves steel burrs on the inside of the pipe. These can be removed with a round file, but a reaming tool works much faster. Just press it into the end of the pipe and turn. One or two turns should do the trick.

3 Cut threads on the end of the pipe using a threading tool with interchangeable dies. First apply oil to the end of the pipe (inset); then press the die onto the pipe; and turn the handle clockwise until the die starts cutting threads. Keep turning the handle until the threads are complete.

4 Remove any steel filings from the inside of the pipe; then spread pipe joint compound over the newly cut threads, using the applicator that comes with the container. Don’t spread compound on the inside of the pipe because it will foul the water or gas that the pipe will carry.

5 After applying the joint compound, thread the appropriate fitting onto the end of the pipe, and tighten it by turning a pipe wrench in a clockwise direction. It’s a good idea to support the fitting with a scrap pipe nipple loosely threaded into the open end of the fitting.

ELECTROLYSIS

WHEN YOU JOIN COPPER OR BRASS with galvanized-steel pipes and fittings, you can cause a serious problem—electrolytic corrosion, or electrolysis. This corrosion breaks down the steel side of the joint. It stems from a disparity between each metal’s inherent electrical charge. Copper and brass have more positively charged ions than the iron in steel, so the iron continues to give up electrons, and over time the steel side of the joint corrodes.

Electrolysis occurs when dissimilar metals come in contact, but the rate of corrosion varies locally. The damage may not reveal itself for decades, or it may take only a year or two.

When joining dissimilar metals in plumbing, dielectric unions are normally required. A dielectric union differs from a conventional union in that a plastic spacer separates the two halves of the fitting. The threaded adapters are also different. In most cases, one is brass and the other is steel. The plastic spacer prevents direct contact, which prevents corrosion. You install these unions just as you install other unions. Check with your building department for requirements.

A dielectric union allows you to join copper and iron without electrolytic corrosion.

Alternative Methods of Joining Steel Pipe. If the thought of all this threading and wrenching wears you down, take heart. You’ll often be able to repair or extend steel lines with newer, more friendly materials. In the case of black-steel gas piping, you might be able to cut the line and splice in soft copper tubing, using couplings that have a flared fitting on one end and male or female threads on the other.

If local codes allow plastic water piping, you might also splice in a length of CPVC plastic pipe, using easy-to-install threaded adapters. In this case, you’d remove the old pipe, thread male adapters in the female steel-pipe threads, and cement a length of plastic pipe into these fittings. But be sure you don’t interrupt your home’s electrical grounding system. (See “Electrical Grounding and Plastic,” here.)

EXISTING LEAD HAZARDS

IN THE EARLY 1900s, plumbers used lead water piping. They considered lead a real problem solver because it is malleable and can accommodate moderate seasonal soil movement without creating pipe failure. Plumbers generally installed it in underground water service lines between public mains and private homes. They did not use it for the entire system. Even today, millions of homes still have lead loops in their water service lines.

To determine whether your older home—built prior to 1945—has lead service loops, check the service pipe as it enters the house. If you see galvanized-steel joints with visible threads, lead is not present. But if you see a dull gray loop of pipe that joins galvanized piping with bulging, seamless joints, that’s lead. These joints are seamless because the plumber repeatedly wiped molten lead over the lead-steel transition. To confirm your suspicions, scrape the pipe surface with a knife. If the scraped area is soft and shiny, it’s lead.

The presence of calcified mineral deposits inside the pipes reduces the lead hazard in older systems. Because lead loops are part of the underground service pipe, replacement is costly. And because there’s no way of knowing how a buried-service-line repair will go, few plumbers will give you a binding estimate. It will almost always be a cost-plus repair, and it’s not something you can do on your own. That said, lead pipes should be removed.

GREEN SOLUTION

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INSULATING WATER PIPES

YOU CAN DO LITTLE THAT IMPROVES A WATER-PIPING JOB AS MUCH AS PIPE INSULATION. INEXPENSIVE AND EASY TO INSTALL, PIPE INSULATION DAMPENS MUCH OF THE NOISE OF RUNNING WATER AND LIMITS FREEZING. IT ALSO ELIMINATES CONDENSATION IN SUMMER AND REDUCES ENERGY COSTS YEAR-ROUND IN TWO WAYS. FIRST, IT REDUCES THE AMOUNT OF HEAT LOST THROUGH THE PIPE WALLS. SECOND, BECAUSE HOT OR COLD WATER TEMPERATURES ARE MAINTAINED LONGER IN THEIR RESPECTIVE LINES, YOU’LL SPEND LESS TIME—AND WATER—RUNNING THE TAP, WAITING FOR IT TO WARM UP OR COOL DOWN.

PIPE INSULATION COMES IN SEVERAL FORMS. THE EASIEST ONE TO INSTALL IS MADE OF FOAM RUBBER. IT COMES IN A VARIETY OF LENGTHS AND DIAMETERS, AND IS PARTIALLY SPLIT ALONG ONE SIDE. WHEN YOU INSTALL IT ON NEW PIPING, YOU SLIDE IT DIRECTLY ONTO EACH NEW LENGTH, LEAVING THE SPLIT INTACT. ON EXISTING INSTALLATIONS, CUT THE INSULATION TO LENGTH USING A UTILITY KNIFE, OPEN THE SEAM, SLIP THE INSULATION OVER THE PIPE, AND SEAL THE JOINT WITH DUCT TAPE OR PLASTIC SEALING TAPE.

To insulate existing pipes using foam insulation, open the seam and tape the insulation in place.

PLASTIC WATER PIPING

Plastic water pipe, made of chlorinated polyvinyl chloride (CPVC), has been around for years, and when properly installed, has proved to be durable. Its appeal, of course, is its ease of installation. CPVC piping can be installed with the most common of household tools and by people with almost no previous experience. The problem is that some plumbing codes have not come up to speed on CPVC as a potable water carrier.

Electrical Grounding and Plastic. Few homeowners understand the relationship between a home’s plumbing and electrical systems. In many jurisdictions, the electrical panel is grounded through metallic water piping. Because the metallic piping inside the house connects to a metallic water service pipe that is buried underground, most codes require that the electrical system use this piping for all or part of its path to ground in order to have a safe installation.

If you cut out a section of cold-water trunk line and splice a length of plastic piping in its place, there’s a good chance that you’ll interrupt this path to ground. That’s a dangerous situation. If you decide to splice plastic into a cold-water trunk line, install a heavy grounding conductor across the span. This jumper wire should be the same size as the service panel’s existing grounding wire, usually 6 gauge. Attach the wire to the metallic pipes using code-approved grounding clamps, one on each side of the splice. You won’t need a jumper where the grounding wire connects directly to the water service pipe on the street side of the meter.

When splicing plastic into copper piping, you may need to install a copper jumper wire to maintain an unbroken ground for the home’s wiring system.

CUTTING AND FITTING CPVC TUBING

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CPVC tubing comes in a variety of diameters: ⅜, ½, ¾, and 1 inch. The fitting assortment made for other kinds of piping is also available in CPVC. The best way to cut it is using special shears. These cutters slice the plastic cleanly, leaving almost no ridges or ragged edges. Like the PVC made for drainpipes, CPVC comes with a surface glaze that you must remove before you cement it. The best remover is a solvent-primer, which comes in containers with lid-mounted applicators. Dab primer on the tubing area to be cemented. Do the same to the inner surfaces of the fitting hubs. Allow the primer to evaporate before making the joint. You can also cut the glaze by scuffing the final 1 inch of the tubing and the inner surfaces of each fitting hub.

After you remove the surface glaze, test-fit the joints you want to make. Make alignment marks on the fitting and the tubing using a pencil or marker. You’ll use these marks later to line up the tubes and fittings in exactly the same positions when you rotate the parts as you put them together. Apply a thin but even coating of joint solvent cement inside the hub of the fitting and to the outside of the tubing, using the container’s applicator. Insert the tubing into the fitting, and rotate it one-quarter turn, using the alignment marks you made previously as a guide. Rotating the tubing or fitting helps fill any voids in the cement. As with PVC drainpipe, once you have cemented the joint you’ll have very little time to change your mind. If you find that you’ve made a mistake, pull the joint apart immediately; apply new solvent cement, and remake the joint.

TOOLS & MATERIALS

▮ Pipe-cutting shears

▮ CPVC solvent primer

▮ CPVC tubing and fittings

▮ Pencil

▮ CPVC solvent cement

▮ Measuring tape

1 Plastic tubing can be cut to length with a standard tubing cutter or a common hacksaw. But the fastest and cleanest cut is achieved with plastic-pipe-cutting shears. To use this tool, just mark the tubing; hold the shears perpendicular to the tube; and squeeze until the tube is cut through.

2 Before the mating parts are cleaned with primer, dry-assemble all the components, and test-fit the parts to make sure you are satisfied with their positions. Then make alignment marks at all the joints using a pencil or felt tip marker. Make heavy lines that won’t rub off during assembly.

3 Once the tubing sections are cut, join them with a plastic fitting. The first step in this process is to clean the outside ends of the tubes and insides of the fitting with primer. This product removes the surface glaze and any oil and dirt. Use the applicator that comes with the primer container.

4 Take apart the joint, and spread plastic cement on the mating parts using the applicator that’s mounted on the container’s cap. Make sure the entire circumference of the tubing and the inside of the fitting are coated. Work quickly so the cement doesn’t start to dry before the parts are assembled.

5 To assemble the parts, push the tubing into the fitting so that the marks are about ¼ turn out of alignment. Make sure the tubing is completely seated in the fitting; then turn the tube until the marks align. You only have a few seconds to do this job. Once the cement starts to set, you can’t move the parts.

CPVC VERSUS COPPER

IS CPVC PLASTIC AS GOOD AS COPPER for common residential plumbing applications? In most cases, yes. But this is true only if it is not used underground or under concrete, if it has no chance to freeze, and when the installation is made according to manufacturer’s specifications and is code-worthy. In some cases—for example, in cabins and second homes where water can stand long enough to corrode copper—plastic may actually be the best choice.

But in cold climate conditions, plastic can be a real problem. When water-filled plastic tubing freezes, the tubing tends to break before the fittings, usually along its entire length. Neither plastic tubing nor fittings can be repaired; they must be replaced. Copper plumbing is also damaged by freezing water, but the breaks tend to occur at the joints between tubing and fittings. These joints are easier and less expensive to fix.

IN-LINE WATER-CONTROL VALVES

Shutoff valves, or stops, for water piping have a variety of control mechanisms. Each mechanism type has its advantages and disadvantages, and understanding those pluses and minuses will help you decide where to use each one. For example, some valve mechanisms restrict flow by as much as 50 percent. This is a real concern in certain situations. The main house valve, for instance, should not restrict flow, because a reduction there could affect the performance of the entire system. In contrast, the small-bore compression valves under sinks have little effect because the faucets they serve restrict flow in the first place.

Gate Valves

Gate valves, along with some ball valves, allow an unrestricted flow of water. As the name implies, the control mechanism is an internal gate. Turn the handle to the left, and the gate rises out of its seat. Turn it to the right, and the gate moves downward, slicing off the flow. The sliding gate makes gate valves larger than other valves.

Like most full-bore water valves, gate valves are not meant to be used frequently. They can’t survive the wear and tear that a faucet endures on a daily basis. If the gate valve has a serious nemesis, it’s hard water. Calcified minerals can encrust the mechanism, rendering it inoperable. Forcing the valve can break the stem from the gate. In most cases, replacement is the best option.

Because of their full-flow designs, gate valves are used close to the beginning of the water piping system, usually near the meter or pressure tank.

Ball Valves

Ball valves are available in flow-reducing and larger full-flow versions. The mechanism in these valves is a hollow nylon or metal ball that pivots in the valve body. Opposing sides of the ball are open. When these openings are oriented with the flow, water passes through the ball. When you rotate the valve against the flow, the closed sides of the ball stop the water. Ball valves are easy to use because it takes only one-quarter turn of the handle to open or close them. In addition, they are generally more durable than gate valves. They’re certainly less vulnerable to calcification. Ball valves can be used anywhere a gate valve might be used.

Globe Valves

Globe valves have been the standard in the industry for years and are used most often in full-size, in-line piping, although they can restrict flow by nearly 50 percent. Some newer designs—with slightly larger bodies—are less restrictive.

Globe valves are popular for several reasons. To begin with, they are the least expensive types of valve. They are small and compact, and because they use a compression mechanism, you can service them easily and inexpensively. All it takes is a 5¢ washer. Unlike ball valves, however, globe valves do not withstand frequent operation. While the valve seat and mechanism hold up well enough, the graphite stem packing in many models leaks after each use. A half-turn of the packing nut stops the leak, but it’s a nuisance. Some models now have O-ring packing and nylon bonnet-nut seals, which correct the problem.

Globe valves, in - and ½-inch diameters, are common in residential plumbing. They do not work well as the first valves in the system, but they work in branch lines. Although not the best idea because they restrict flow, many people install them above water heaters in the cold-water inlet line. Check local codes, however.

Stop-and-Waste Valves

Stop-and-waste valves are usually globe valves that have a drain screw on the downstream side of the shutoff mechanism. This screw allows you to drain water from the downstream piping after you have shut off the valve. Stop-and-waste valves are useful for pipes that you need to shut down during winter, such as dedicated lines serving outdoor faucets, sprinklers, outbuildings, and the like. If you are draining an entire system, such as a summer home or cabin, however, a hose bibcock drain is the best choice. (See “Hose Bibcocks,” page.)

Fixture Stops