Applied Colorimetry E-Book

Claudio Terribile

• Herausgeber: Youcanprint
• Kategorie: Bildung
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2016

Beschreibung

This book was born with a dual purpose. The first is to provide the hairstylist a suitable tool to deal with the problems they encounter in their daily work. I am sure many times it just happened to have an inventory shortage or even to find ourselves out of stocks in the warehouse, and we had to remedy with resourcefulness and tricks acquired from the experience accumulated over the years in our profession. The second purpose is to provide a real teaching tool for all those who come to this world of theory, practice, and lots of creativity. Getting familiar with the issues of colorimetry and apply them with satisfactory results, is not easy. Contents of the book: - 1.0 Biology - 2.0 Chemistry - 3.0 Tricho-chemistry - 4.0 Tricho-care - 5.0 Chemicals to avoid - 6.o Applied colorimetry - 7.0 Conceptual maps - 8.0 Glossary - 9.0 l ndex - 10.0 References - 57 Figures - 18 Conceptual maps - 7 Form ulas - 7 Charts - 7 Tests and verifications

Leseprobe

GENERAL INDEX

Preface

1.0 Hair Biology

1.1 Hair morphology

1.2 Colorimetric parameters

1.3 Hair structure

1.4 Cuticle

1.5 Hair cortex

1.6 Medulla

1.7 Keratin

1.8 Outer structure of the hair follicle

1.9 Inner structure of the hair follicle

1.10 Growth Stage

1.11 Hair in numbers

1.12 Hair form

1.13 Hair density

1.14 Hair porosity

1.15 Hair elasticity

1.16 Hair texture

1.17 Color reactions on hair type

1.18 Test and verification

2.0 Hair chemistry

2.1 Structure

2.2 Structure β

2.3 Bonds

2.4 Structural Analysis

2.5 Bonds → saline/hydrogen/disulfide

2.6 Melanin

2.7 Chemical processes → perm

2.8 Chemical process → decolorization

2.9 Chemical analysis in hair

2.10 Pigments/trace elements

2.11 Tensile strength test

2.12 pH → hydrogen ion concentration

2.13 pH Scale

2.14 pH → Cosmetics value

2.15 pH → Solution charges

2.16 pH balancing

2.17 pH products testing

2.18 Electrode/ pH meter

2.19 Test and verification

3.0 Hair Tricho-care

3.1 Anomalies with increased fragility

3.2 Anomalies without increased fragility

3.3 Anomalies with or without increased fragility

3.4 Trichogram

3.5 Phototrichogram

3.6 Mineralogram

3.7 Test and verification

4.0 Tricho-chemistry

4.1 Colorants

4.2 Color retention

4.3 Oxidation dyes

4.4 Precursors

4.5 Direct coloration

4.6 Colorants classes in direct dyes

4.7 Metallic salts based dyes

4.8 Temporary or fleeting dyes

4.9 Permanent dyes

4.10 Oxidation process in permanent color

4.11 Primary and secondary intermediates

4.12 Chemical name of withdrawn substances

4.13 Test and verification

5.0 Chemicals to avoid

5.1 Endocrine disruptors

5.2 Carcinogenic ingredients and contaminants

5.3 Most used chemicals in hair dyes

5.4 INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetics Ingredients)

5.5 May Contain

5.6 Alcohol - Dyes

5.7 DEA/TEA/MEA

5.8 Imidazolindinil-urea / EDTA

5.9 Nonoxinol / PEG-PPG-Glicol

5.10 Petrolatum/Polymers/Acrylate

5.11 Styrene/Copolymer/Poloxamer

5.12 Silicones/SLS/Triclosan/Trimonium

5.13 Cosmetic color composition

5.14 Test and verification

6.0 Applied Colorimetry

6.1 Color concept

6.2 Colors recognition

6.3 Colors and Temperatures

6.4 Basic or Primary colors

6.5 Additive synthesis

6.6 Subtractive synthesis

6.7 Primary /secondary/tertiary hues

6.8 First and second rule of colorimetry

6.9 International System of Numeration

6.10 Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2)

6.11 H2O2 Volume and Weight

6.12 Calculating H2O2 concentrations

6.13 Calculating different quantities of H2O2 concentration

6.14 Calculating H2O2 concentrations with addition of H2O

6.15 Calculating solution quantities

6.16 Calculating solution intensities

6.17 Calculating concentrate quantities

6.18 Calculating concentrate intensities

6.19 Melanin

6.20 Melanin percentages

6.21 Levels ( or basic shades) depth scale

6.22 Melanin concentrations scale

6.23 Intensifiers

6.24 Correctors

6.25 Natural color concept map

6.26 Decolorization

6.27 Strong/medium/faint decolorization

6.28 Decolorization strength concept map

6.29 Using mordant

6.30 Using mordant technical proceedings

6.31 Mordanting

6.32 Re-pigmentation

6.33 Pre-pigmentation

6.34 Coloring gray hair

6.35 Assessing hair type

6.36 Color reactions on different structures

6.37 Cosmetic color toning

6.38 H2O2 settling and brightening power

6.39 Applicable primers of the cosmetic color

6.40 Test and verification

7.0 Conceptual maps

7.1 Active H2O2 function

7.2 Tints codes

7.3 Levels or tone bases depth scale

7.4 Melanin-like concentrations scale

7.5 Intensifiers

7.6 Correctors

7.7 Natural color

7.8 Decolorization strength

7.9 Using mordant

7.10 Re-pigmentation

7.11 Pre-pigmentation

7.12 Cosmetic color mixing on gray hair

7.13 Hair assessment

7.14 Color reaction on different structures

7.15 Color-toning tints

7.16 H2O2 settling and brightening power

7.17 Applicable primers and brightening level

7.18 pH values scale

8.0 Glossary

8.1 Test and verification

Index

References

Acknowledgements

Partnership

Copyright © Colorimetriapplicata 2013

All rights reserved by law and in accordance with international conventions. Any reproduction, partial or total, even for internal use or for educational purposes, without written permission of Colorimetriapplicata will be prosecuted according to law.

Graphic design, typesetting and layout: Claudio Terribile

Cover: Claudio Terribile

Translation: Marco Marcello

ISBN: 9788891199621

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Applied Colorimetry

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Claudio Terribile

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PREFACE

Dott. Andrea Marliani

Strange destiny of Trichology…

Mankind from immemorial time, since became human and perhaps even before, was always worried about his hair up to neurosis. Medicine, ever since it came, immediately took care of hair: the oldest specialist in hair diseases of which we know is the Egyptian Hakiem Demagh and he seems to have been at the service of Pharaoh Ramses II (about 1250 years BC), who suffered from alopecia.

But when Western medicine believed to find its own identity and its own specializations and believed to have become noble, it has denied the Trichology as a impure science.

Much that, except for a few major exceptions, most of the doctors has paid little interest to the problems of hair.

In the medical setting, until the 80s of the twentieth century, the term “trichology” was never pronounced but there was talk (and you had to speak) of “diseases of skin appendages” so that the term Trichology on the Zingarelli Dictionary, only appears from 1997.

Others, of course, have had to deal with hair… grandmothers, makeshift hair specialists, extraction hair-care centers, and sometimes, good hairdressers.

Very gladly present this work of my friend Claudio Terribile who shares with me a passion for Trichology.

Claudio with remarkable teaching ability gives us, with this book, an important cultural contribution addressed to colleagues and students on the theme of Trichology, a theme that always sees him as a passionate scholar at the forefront. Both the novice and the expert will find a practical tool for consultation and analysis.

The title: “Applied Colorimetry” is definitely an understatement since the book is revealed from its the first pages an updated manual for Trichology operators, stylists and industry schools.

The abundance of diagrams, and images, along with a stylish graphics make this work a quality product.

This volume is an example of the hoped-connecting bridges between dermatology and the cosmetology empirical science in the hair industry, to better manage an issue that has economic, industrial, commercial implications besides legal and psycho-social.

This is the spirit of the Italian Society of Trichology.

Trichology is now separate from dermatology, from endocrinology, genetics, aesthetic medicine … becoming a discipline in itself, multidisciplinary.

It’s no longer enough to be a good dermatologist or endocrinologist, to be a good Doctor Trichologist, sometimes a good hairdresser is able to give many points to many doctors.

I wish this work the deserved success among those who, either experienced or novice, wants to take proper care of hair.

prof Andrea Marliani

President Emeritus

The Italian Society of Trichology